Modern Motorsports Ltd

quote: Originally posted by labrat: I noticed on one of the heads the valve looked recessed about 1/4 in into its seat. Is this just because the cam is not there to offset the valve spring, or is there something wrong with the head? Unless it's simply a worn valve seat in an old set of heads (which I doubt but could be possible), it's had a major valve job or three in its day and as you say that valve is recessed which you do NOT want at all. Just not worth playing with unless you're on quite a budget as you don't want to put any money into them anyhow. Just won't flow as it should and once it's recessed etc (and if only one of them is) geometries can get quite altered as well. I paid $20 for a 'vaccuum test' to have my RPM heads tested when I swapped them from my 327 to my 350. The machine shop that was testing my valve springs REALLY wanted to lap in my valves and I was VERY much against it and was so relieved when I found out they could vaccuum test them to see if they were still sealing well (I killed the valvesprings/fatigued fast on overrevs , edelbrock heads aren't known for great OE valvesprings anyhow). $20 and I found out all valves were sealing 100%. Avoid recessed valves if possible Bill.

quote: Originally posted by 327AIRLADY: spring rates are gonna be a little off with the v8 up front, i would say go with the tokikos and any some kind of racing springs would stiffen that bad boy up great, do you have any photos of that lt1-t56??? Thanks for the info Mike and fairlady, we couldn't round up any decent parts local quickly so put it off to get exactly the right stuff for install later. We believe his right rear shock is totally/shot/broken as that corner is sagging a bit and it was only mild body roll at slow speeds or bumps that would cause the tire to rub that corner. His front end is definitely lighter in it's current state with the 8 than it was with the 6 so no need for heavier stuff up front unless he want it tighter at speed which isn't a big desire yet. Looks like coilovers will be best overall as he can place it at the exact height he wants and sooner or later arrive at a satisfactory spring rate. I found out/realized those rear struts aren't near as easy to re and re as I'm used to on my ZX (or so it looks and only local shop wanted 4 hrs for both if my dad left it their as he's fully committed rest of the week). I'm going to search the archives on rolling/folding that inner rear fender lip up as it was quite dissapointing to see 'only' 225's rubbing it. I now see the Z's don't clear the same sizes as ZX's with the same ease on zero offset wheels as was further reinforced by archives I searched while at home. OK, had to go search before I finished typing this....so using a very heavy dolley on the front vertical lip of the quarter panel (cloth between) while tapping the inside vertical lip (nothing touching the horizontal bottom lip right?)is the tried and true best result when used with enough patience? His quarters have a lot of paint on them so I'm not so confident much paint will hang around on that inside lip/as long as it only cracks their and not on outer or v. bottom edge. So which struts are preferred between Tokico Illuminas and 5ways for mostly street/highway driving with limited track/school use if any? I assume no other shocks are reccomended? I believe he'll set it up at ~2.75-3" clearance from rear tire to fender lip and then under load it won't bottom on that unless an extreme event which seems reasonable as my heavier ZX doesn't travel 3" in bump out back although it is setup quite stiff.

Howdy Sean, I'm just back home now...... I'm not up on your ride but 400hp in a ZX is fun You talking rw or flywheel? I'm happy with rw wheels/springs/brakes.......ahh fun and $ I had 16x7's on my stock susp (well geometry wise) with no problems. I did coilovers at same time as my 5 lug and 16x8 etc install so can't comment on that fit with stock susp. I now have 16x8's and they clear my rears easily with lots of room inside, I could see possibly 315's out their some day. Fronts clear my lower coilover perch by ~1/8" with the perch ground to ~1/8" thickness/width (minimum for threaded collar to sit on), then spring and it's perch HAS to be above the tire to clear. I had to go to 7" springs to fit this (with stock top hat/my adjustable camber plates (ie. shallower) might allow me to get back to 8" springs). I'll check later for how much room I have outside my front treads to move them out but I only have room for 1/4" more spacer max on my ARP 2.5" studs (3" but only 2.5 is threaded AIR). This with 245/45's all around. If you're thinking of going 5lug and big brakes I've got 13's on mine and one of my setups is out east and the owner is sitting on it as he ended up selling his car before installing. Contact me for info if interested. 13" brembo's PBR calipers/custom brackets SS lines/pads hardware etc

You can use a solid or hydraulic cam for your desires/solid will be a fair bit cheaper as you won't need a rev kit that you would with a hydraulic to see 7k with strong power. Nothing wrong with using non 1.5 rockers, just work it into your overall lift ahead of time so you know your springs have the room to accomodate whatever lift you decide on. Pete's referencing old single pattern cams mostly (v. few single patterns today...) and grinds have come a long way since 60's factory single grinds so step to a newer dual pattern cam that will match up with your heads/intake/exhaust plans. The only reason I mix rockers on my mill is I run a ZZ4 roller cam (it was $50 new)and that cam was designed around the rather lazy exhaust port of L98 heads(old vette/new ZZ4) so has a wide split pattern that my mill didn't have to accomodate with better flowing heads so I bumped up the intake. A proven dyno combo among Lt1 Impalas good for ~320hp/320tq at the wheels with appropriate fuel/breathing support.

Howdy Guys, I'm at my dad's place out in Edmonton on an old computer jamming on the java etc but I did search archives and couldn't find this fully laid out. My dad's Lt1t56 240 is up and running nicely. He has his brand new 16x7 0 offset Rikens mounted up with 225/50/16 tires. We heard some rubbing sound on right rear compression and it turns out the tire is rubbing the fender on a mild-medium bump or right hand corner. It's rubbing the tire midway down the tread on the outer 'bevel', ie. if his new tires were at 50% wear the fender is cutting in right at that outer edge. As well the rear drops a good inch just when one of us sits in the car so rear suspension is v. soft. A few q's here: -would the 'normal' 240Z suspension see the tire travelling as high as the fender in normal use? (ie. we know his setup is 'soft'/sagged now but how soft we don't know..) -what springs are reccomended for a stiffer/proper ride? Roads here are quite good so a stiffer setup is OK. -shocks as well? it won't be seeing much if any roadracing but he does enjoy twisties etc and the V8 swap has put more weight on the rear -any easily available springs/shocks he can use? -tomorrow afternoon is our only window to swap in something suitable so he can run the car down to an cruise/show this upcoming weekend (as well as drive period/as it's cutting up the tire now) -it seemed in summary from the FAQ's that rolling the inner rim was required to run 225's on LOWERED cars but nothing was clear on 'stock' height cars which is what this is...his car's already been fully painted etc and I doubt this lip will 'roll' v. well without cracking paint etc on bottom lip (we tried 'mild' rolling and it didn't budge levering a 2x4 fairly hard), the inner lip is v. sharp....Anyone ever just grind this lip down?? and then reseal with silicone to inner? (just curious/I really doubt he'd do this) thanks in advance

quote: Originally posted by blueovalz: Ross; the reason I put an inline I must have mistyped above Terry/I understood your use for it and was just pointing out it would work fine for John as well if he did follow thru with his tilting plan as his top rad cap would most likely be lower than his engine/upper rad hose outlet. I've always fully agreed on purging all air in the coolant system... I was looking to fearlessly use a chevy 400 block (what a bad rap some uninformed give that block!) till this roller 350 came along at the right price PS I enjoy my 9.4:1 on 87 octane and less with no pingpingping

Howdy John I agree that's a lot of work for the gains...why not modify your hood? It's only a simple crossbeam underneath which can easily be accounted for by some bracing in those two lower corners to pickup any lost ridgity IF you don't build this into your 'tunnel' or duct that runs over the rad (ie. if it's not built into your hood/but a hose/duct separate from hood running from intake to front of rad). I've discussed this with a master sheetmetal worker and it was quite trivial for him (he's done body panels from scratch so skilled but felt this was quite routine). I would not put my rad any further fwd that needed just to aid protecting it...I had a major incident last year and it was only twisted slightly with my mounts whereas front frame was twisted moreso Rad fix turned out to be <$30 If you do go to the effort to slant it I'm sure you can use an inline filler hose as you mention/ I'd integrate some additional bracing while modifying up front if you cut into it. check out a C5 front duct piece/it may almost be a bolt on (idea wise/parts likely costly) but offer good idea's (C5 sites have pics) hmm, anyone thought of cutting open the outer vertical face on an OE ZX airbox (to look like a normal carbed chevy airbox) and building in the intake nozzle to the top lid? The turbo filter is a good size and it would sit right in front of the rad/nozzle to lid coming back over rad straight to intake....Hmmmm, chromed front housing....or any other oblong housing for larger filtration with a water deflector plate underneath....huh/any comments on that? a new ideer for me...

Mike and others, are you familiar with this 'triangular' edelbrock box? or did they use the baseplate from that small edelbrock triangular/foam top/metal mesh filter setup? I've honestly been thinking of using a cookie tin of appropriate size and fitting it up etc but that'll already fit would be fin/I just don't want a 14" airbox preferably. As for the rad. core support holes...I thought fresh air comes in at the base of your cowl in that large grill/vent (ala where wiper bases are), or via inner fender? On my ZX the front rad. support main hole was for the airbox to TB hose.

quote: Originally posted by Kevin Shasteen: Ross, I'm not sure how you worked the formula; but I came up w/5.65" tall of a filter requred for your 350 @ 6000rpms. Kevin Shasteen ] OK, now that it works I just can't believe thats my true required height I'm down to the garage now to make my custom housing for the 5'(60") diameter filter I'll need for my 2" height I'm restricted to gonna take a lot of cotton batton I knew I'd end up buying a welder and torch some day;^) Just joshing you Kevin, but the numbers must be for 200% efficiency on the intake side or something as removing my air cleaner doesn't yield any phenomenal gains so 2" can't be that bad.. PS thanks for the extra pair of brackets(D+3.14)/us eng's hang onto those quite dearly.

quote: Originally posted by DavyZ: Andrew, just so I'm straight about this, the extra room between the framerails in no way impacts the size of the spacers used in the JTR method, correct? I just gotta know! Thanks, David Crossmember engine pickup points did not change on Z's (perhaps same 70-83?) so your engine spacers are unaffected.

NISMO doesn't and hasn't had 3.15's in a long time, I only know of 3 (was 2 till you mentioned the red car) sets period and I've had friends even search Japan (not saying there aren't more, but they're not on display, that's for sure). I have 3.15,3.36->4.11 but no plans to sell the 3.15 at present. (3.15 and 3.36 still new in box) Although that $2k mention above did get wheels/gears turning Ross (hoping mods make 3.15's worthy of an install ) [ April 25, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

quote: Originally posted by lil2qwk: On the rotor cracks, lets be fair and compare apples to apples, not apples to oranges. Who has cracked a $47 12" front rotor on a Z car? Under what circumstances, what pad material, etc. etc. This is why I ask for material details. All the rest is hearsay (sp?). It's easy to look at price and think you are getting better quality. That's not always true. Steve I never buck up more unless I truly am convinced I'm getting more. Friends have cracked cheap and not so cheap 12 & 13" rotors on new cobras and camaros at lesser use than I (yes/they're heavier but I was going faster in an hour and less of track use. Both NAPA stuff and Ford OE stuff. Ford made some changes and switched to brembo in latter 90's and this seemed to correct it as a common cobra upgrade is the rotors for track and race use. they'd warp in a day on the street. For cheap OEM Z rotors I haven't had troubles with cracking but warpage was fairly soon. The OE camaro/ford stuff is only $50-60 per rotor in 13" sizes in aftermarket 'cheap' stuff but true dealer/brembo stuff doubles in cost and the wear seems to reflect the metallurgy improvements. When a few dozen cobras and the 4th gen fbody buds replace stuff hand over fist till they get good stuff I like benefitting from this and paying a little extra for piece of mind that my $ invested in a track day is well spent and I don't have any maintenance/serviceability related concers. I never even thought of playing with the cheap large rotors for my brake conversion after enough hijinks experienced from others with similar size/mass/brands. Rotor wear and warpage frequency are my main concerns and led me to the higher $ rotors. Hopefully someone can comment more on your q's for 12" rotors and smaller. On the spacer issue/I thought most use spacers to optimize wheel placement outboard or to clear larger wheels with both 4 lug and 5 lug patterns, not for rotor positioning. That's typically handled I believe by caliper spacing or the hat offset. Their are many wheels that can greatly improve rotor cooling as well as you'd know that are great lighten the unsprung weight/or balance larger tires

Sounds like a fine fix Ed. If you ever get stranded you can use that 3/8's to defend yourself;^) (just kidding but you can adjust it with strong finger pressure underneath so nothing massive req'd) My 1st shifter setup was v. similar, 3/16's or so threaded rod with double nuts and a sleeved eyelet with a custom 'plate' inside my OE shifter, some initial work to get appropriate shift positions but dead solid till the Hammer install.

Well, you give lots to chew on Steve and don't take offense by any of this but my typing time is limited so I'll try to convey my points quickly. "But as you may know if you have been out of school for a while, we could calculate all day and not come close to the guys who race the cars every day; experiment by trial and error. The calcs are only as accurate as the data and assumptions that go into them." Being qualified to practise eng. one must understand on what assumptions and basis any formulae you aply are derived from. The book isn't made applicable by using original heat transfer/absorption equations derived decades ago. Puhn's book included braking surface and some other data for MANY existing cars and their weights for some comparison including racing setups. I felt my post briefly incorporated both his calc's and observations of real world scenarios as any eng. approach should. " Of course what makes this so tough is that I won't know my CG height and forces/masses involved until the car is built and I've tested it." What? Your only roadbloack at present IMO is not having some calculations to chew on. Do you feel your cars final weight is going to vary a few hundred pounds? Obervational eng. method will see you at a solution easily and fairly quickly. Assume your best and worst and see where this sits..and revise if variance is great as more info becomes available/if variance is negligible/ie. all fits one design then progress as is.. CG can be easily guesstimated and sensitivity checked as can be your weights from info of other builds and looking at your own planned mods. " but something has to also be said for surface area (heat rejection capability). Perhaps some total measure of rotor heat absorbtion/rejection." something yes but not as a factor in your ONE max braking scenario as the time frame involved is negligible as are other factors to assume any cooling, the cooling is an integral part of your overall rotor temp...keep your overall track ave. temp low enough and during this MAX braking zone you won't exceed your design maximum temp This is where some more recent brembo designs have moved away from 'vented/vaned' rotors into ones with only small 'spikes'/like stalactites/stalagmites/pillars with narrow centres which vent far better with greater surface area of actual rotor exposed, less airflow impedance and some improved metallurgy. " i.e. I want to design my brake system for use with the same wheels front and rear, and definitely definitely without the use of spacers. It would be great if the owner of this web site could post some as-installed dimensions from the wheel mating surface of the hub to say the inner fenderwell, or even the stock fender lip for a reference." As Mike mentioned/rotors_hats non slipon as seen on his site don't alter your hub geometry/wheel relation. I think most are running same wheels all 4 corners and those with altered f/r combos aren't limited due to brake choices. I'd like to hear your reasons for 'no' spacers just for curiousity as you never know when you may raise new issues to broaden discussion. Kudo's to you on making your own alum. hubs, I only know of one other (a local) who's done this and it is impressive Is this for the challenge or your overall weight intentions? My front much enlargened brake/wheel combo (13s/16x8's)weighs in at stock setup's weight (or less) so I'm sure alum. hubs could only improve that more! I was v. glad to be able to do the upgrades without increasing the weight from OE (that's my knock on the 4x4 calipers HEAVY)Ahh, a ways down my priority list I'm afraid. "Also, I am a bit concerned about the rotor pricing at $120 each." rotors you compared to were far smaller and of lesser quality AFAIK, as well those camaro cheapies you mentioned are produced in HUGE quantities so cost isn't so surprising. Decent (ie. for street/track to last a year or two) rotors do not run much less than $120US for anything 12"+. Some cheaper aftermarket OE's will be cheaper but YGWYPF. Myself and others have cracked rotors in a day as Mike has in minutes and those lessons have been learned [ April 25, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

quote: Originally posted by Kevin Shasteen: H = (A/D+3.14) + .75 Kevin Kevin, are you sure on these formulae? I checked their site and only found the 14" diam. chart. I assumed various units and didn't get their 3" height/350/6000rpm (came close to 2.5" with 350 input as 5.7). The portion quoted above is likely in error as if it was ++ it may as well be just +3.89. Interesting approach but something should be said for volumetric efficiency in such a calculation as well if hipo setups are involved and we're not all just assuming 75-85% or so. On the other ideers/great stuff . A local car has an 'airbox' and underhood 'tunnel' under his raised portion only with two 'eyes' at the base of the raised portion on leading edge of hood for inlets...all stainless including two large elbows routed to his firewall/cowl fresh air intake area. Major money in the stainless fabrication and he had to seal off this area from being it's usual cabin/fresh air source. I've toyed in my head with the ideas listed, for an L6 car the front airbox or drivers side fwd of the wheelwell going thru inner fender idea is v. slick IMO and OEM's have used these v. successfully in the past. For V8's I've thought of tunneling in top of my hood and routing it OVER my radiator to open into an extractor type shape (like a floor model vaccuum) off the leading edge of my hood with air cleaner up front in the large extractor (like some 3rd gen fbods location). The hood crossbeam on my ZX would need to be altered for clearance but I'd love this as you lift the hood and it's out of the way/a huge plus for me as I routinely tinker and like things v. easy to access/service/check out. It would seal to a cookie tin like base made to fit my EFI/air door lip (same as any carb). -oh yeah, the blow thru/B&M type tops are quite pricey when I did look at them...as I wanted to use one with dual inlets and possible take them to front either side of rad as I have large holes their already from prior mods or thru the inner fenders to large airboxes or simply K&N cones with the end inverts in front of my wheels tucked as fwd as is reasonable and water shouldn't be a concern with a simple splashguard etc. -alternately (yes another alternate) I'd have my raised hood portion tapered up so by the time it finishes at the base of the cowl it would be raised 3/4"-1" across it's full width for a cowl type subtle hood/not as high as others I've seen.....the C5 breathes thru a rather 'narrow' plastic piece they use that passes over their radiator/hood junction of similar size, 7"x2" or similar/I have those measurements somewhere. This would seal as well upon closing to a box of some sort. Ideally I'd like the first/completely tied to hood/lifts clear when hood opens if time/labour was free. (I have a spare OEM/new hood )

Great points lil2qwk on keeping those surfaces clean, they can attract material easily when removed as brake dust and dirt dislodges in the wheelwell area during disassembly or aless than spotless shop floor they're set on. I just wanted to caution against overtightening as this can easily cause stud failure. Specs are their for a good reason. A racer friend was wondering why he kept breaking wheel studs during races.....he always overtorqued them thinking tighter was better, since we corrected him on this he hasn't broken a stud As well before I invested in a set of bolt on spacers I'd look at my future plans and possible mods as long studs and slip on spacers are far more accomodating of future rims changes with only a thin spacer needed on backside (b/t original slip on and hub) to move this spacing outware/or mill your original spacer. May be a fine time to go 5 lug as well as this is where a LOT of cheaper slick OEM and aftermarket wheels abound and if one desires you can work up to 2 or more sets quite cheaply for various treads etc....most in 16" and larger where the tire choices are much improved. And I know I've mentioned this before but I see a greater safety factor with slipons as it's very easy for me to retorque my wheels and no that COMPLETE connection is dead nuts tight. With bolt ons you have no way of knowing the inner nuts aren't below torque without removing your wheel to retorque. Just my .02c....as well Porsche who uses slipons a great deal uses the thickest studs and widest bolt pattern as part of their design just FWIW (don't recall by memory/but it was true a year ago when I checked this out).

quote: Originally posted by zfan: Good news! Mike Glad you got it fixed Mike! So running great in all circuits/transitions now?

Is it a very loud 'popping'? Like an intake backfire or what? Have you tried adjusting the lifter at all yet? I'd adjust the lifter first/check the pushrod 2nd, and test the valvespring last as well as a dial indicator to see your lobe isn't worn significantly. Do adjust the lifter running if you can and do them all at the same time makes a nice improvement Anyone written up a live lifter adjustment here yet? If not a definite article this forum should have.

Crane specs their own coils to match with HEI units assuming you're talking V8's. It depends on the colour of the two wires on your present coil, seen under your coil cover as the leads for batt and tach. PS91 or 92 depending on wire colour rings a bell.

Well if you work in a trans shop and therefore have such easy support in case their reassurance falters the only issue IMO is what gear ratios are preferred. I found this in a table I have archived but for some reason I recall 1st in a 200R4 is 2.96 or similar/maybe they have a few 1st gear options..... TH-700R4 (1991 Chevrolet) 3.06, 1.63, 1.00, 0.70 rev-2.29 200-4R (Grand National transmission) 2.74, 1.57, 1.00, 0.674 The 3.06/1.63 700 1-2 is a big drop and the 1st gear is next to useless IMO (I run a 700) being so steep. I'd love that 2.74 1st gear and the OD of .674 doesn't hurt. But I'd pick it strictly on that 1st/2nd benefit(47% vs. 43% drop in gearing and preferred 1st). Even mild driving it just rolls in 1st and drops in 2nd v. fast and if I'm truly looking to smoke off a light I usually just pull to 3 or 3500 rpm and drop to 2nd for a nice sweet long (as long as anything is in a V8Z)2nd. Only true perceived threats (ie. a GN/Z06/blow stang) has me looking to pull clean thru 1st. That's how I drove with my 'mild' 327 and my livelier 350 now. Your stump-pulling 383 would be even more so and in a lighter Z (my ZX is 2900 full gas etc) it would be exacerbated. http://users.vei.net/pscalc/trans.htm just found a 2nd site to confirm above ratios good luck and keep us updated on your build with pics as well PS are you running a DANA 36 or 44? and how did you build your halfshafts? are they telescoping or fixed length? I had an alum. dana 36 for a bit till someone else actually had plans so put it to use ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most. [This message has been edited by Ross C (edited April 20, 2001).]

Randy, how did you screw up the bearing preload? And what did that do?? Did you crush anything? I'm curious as I've swapped a few flanges now on mine and others that seem fine guesstimating their torque spec (it is a somewhat broad spec). Was it going to tight I assume that damaged it?? ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

search the archives as this has been discussed to the detail I believe you're looking for or at least a great help I just searched 'turbo blow through' and got 4 different thread matches with lots of content/q's left after reading those might elicit more replies and jog some memories. I'm always amazed at the ground quickly covered in this forum and the great archive resource we have here. Not sure if it's in our initial/mainpage statement but wouldn't be a bad ideer if not. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Too bad they don't have any pics of the parts included in their kit/mounts/headers etc etc, its always enjoyable to see how others solve similar problems. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

put your picture on a web site and then start your post here and you'll see the 'ubb code' button on your left/click on it and a separate window will open with the code for doing it.....and follow that example or just type: ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Weird/I rebooted and on 3rd attempt I could finally see the other replies in this thread?? Computer was stable so no ideer what that was... quote: Originally posted by lonehdrider: I think that comparing smoothness from one car, to a group of cars with various mods can't be a real true comparison. Not disputing your findings, just thought I'd throw in some other possibilities.. Regards, Lone Lone, I appreciate the input and try not to ever assume ideas are gospel but can forget on occasion . When Ron Tyler/Paul Ruschman/ and Jim Biondi had put their heads together and thought something might be attributable to the motor mount differences I tucked it away for possible use later on. I know for a fact that their are great differences b/t the existing motor and tranny mounts out their regarding the effectiveness of their rubber as a dampner/isolater. Simplest example is OE Lt1 A4 trans mounts, they snap them monthly in strong builds and going to aftermarket anytype they don't snap but vibrations come thru strongly and harshly. Swapping to the OE LS1 A4 (4L60 etc) mount removes the vibes and withstands the power without breaking. If in some way the OE GM mounts (I'd heard they're around $100CD/not cheap compared to the sealed power etc) I'd use can have a portion of that resilience and dampening I'm all for it. One thing I'm envious of is the smoothness of a Z32 total platform. I was at a Z shop one day and a TT owner had come in with a question on his recently fully rebuilt TT motor....with door open they just put their finger on the weatherstripping and their was a v. slight/cyclic vibe, I thought they were nuts but thats how smooth those motors are and I had no idea they were so 'silent/smooth' at idle. Reminded me of my dad's 90 supra that when idling you couldn't always even hear or know if it was running. I don't expect to get that 'smooth' but every bit will be nice. I feel my roller/relatively mild cam/ee fan/thick valve covers and sound proofing have made efforts for smoothness and dampening of sound and/or vibes and any other suggested details I'm fully open to. I look fwd to my EFI further enhancing this. (naturally I'll set one program with a rich idle to lump it when I feel it's neccessary ) ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.