Modern Motorsports Ltd

quote: Originally posted by Jason: Ross, could you tell me a bit more about your ZX setup? In front, with my stock 195's, I can just squeeze my fingers between the front tire sidewall and strut. Physically, there's about 2" between the outer sidewall and outside of the fender, but considering the fender lip and liner, I think I only have about 1" of room. The rears have plenty of room, but I'm worried I might upset the balance of the car if I throw some monster tires in back and keep the fronts small. Perhaps the 79-81 and 82-83 have different clearances? [This message has been edited by Jason (edited October 03, 2000).] Jason, well I'm 99.9% sure the geometry varies v.little among 79-83ZX's. My specifics are as follows (FWIW, 16x7 zero offset was v. tight to my front strut tube but 225 tires had plenty of clearance in comparison (ie. rim to strut was ~1/4" or less, tire/strut was >1/2")): front setup: Z31 5 lug hubs plus 4-5mm for slipon rotor, then a 1.25" custom spacer to my 16x8 Rx7 wheels (16lbs!, v. strong/cheap), clearance is tightest from mid tire bulge to bottom of coilover perch at 1/4" or less with 225's(SZ50's or S1's) and 3/16" or less with 245's(advans-A032R's). I have an 'insert' to bump my rim out another 1/4" but haven't put them in, come track next year I'll likely do this. rear setup: rewelded/redrilled hubs for 5lug pattern, OEM slip on rotor (redrilled to 5), 1.5" bolt-on spacer, 16x8 as above. Lots of clearance inside, maybe a 1/2 to go further out. I'd guess 315's might even fit on proper rims inside OE wells back their, 275's easy as 245's have LOTS ofroom I'm not into slamming my ride to the ground with all my daily driving/trips so keep it only 1" below OEM height. I've done all my plans around using EASILY available/CHEAP strong wheels as I'm not into spending $ for looks at this stage with all the following Rx7 wheels/300ZX wheels/stang wheels (supra?) are all quite easily available in good sizes (for reasonable traction w/o putting a lot of xtra force into your car) cheaply allowing you to have multi sets for street/track and really save/simplify running various tires. I pocketed $ after selling my 2 sets of 4 lug 16x7's and completing my 5lug conversion AND including wheel costs for 2 sets. I ended up with a bolt pattern easy to fit wheels to, huge brakes and a lighter wheel allowing a lot more air to move thru my brakes with nimbler response. You can't buy 16x8 aftermarket wheels at 16lbs for less than 3-400 each. With above you get a set for that or less. but obviously I'm tight w/ my dough

quote: Originally posted by Mikelly: Yup, I would also suspect your camber is out of balance between the two front corners... That would definitely contribute to that "Hunting for line" feel in the front as well. Bet it is a handfull on the track if you run on less than optimum surfaces.. Mike Well the roads I drive on hear are VERY bumpy/undulating so it's an effort here. On Oregon and California highways it was pure pleasure, WA was hell. Both tracks were in fine shape so that was good to. It's neutral balance makes for delightful turnin's locally WHEN I want to turn, when I don't it's annoying:-)

quote: Originally posted by Krys D: Great idea guys, but about a week late, Now JEGS has the extra $160 bucks (grin). ahh, never met a vendor that didn't take returns:-)

Front toe is fine at 1/16 and 1/32 l/r respectively. Rear toe wasn't measured on the sheet but shouldn't have changed much although it would adjust a bit with the 1/3-3/4" drop it took since prior setup. The dartiness feels a lot more IMO like a front end dilemna the way it goes (ie. not 'follows').

Finally got to posting this q that's bugged me for a while..... My alignment specs after my repair show my caster as being 2.4d left and 3.2d right (4.1->5.6 is recc'd range for my 280zx), can this be responsible for a 'darty' behaviour even at lower speed on non-smooth pavement? It's like wide treads wanting to follow ruts but happening a lot even with my 225's. I haven't yet installed (and no idea when I will) my caster/camber plates with builtin caster addition (no idea how much is built in). I'd feel better knowing this is responsible for this 'dartiness'. Rear control arm bushings are only 'old' ones on the car but this dartiness is new and bushings don't just 'quit' so I'm looking for the cause (car is lowered about 1"). thanks PSS I'm pretty sure I have a slightly different alignment done 3 wks after above results but still recall caster was below spec and tech telling me he can't adjust it and the current setting is "OK" for my car. I know extra caster contributes to higher speed stability so thinking way low caster could lead to any speed instability...

quote: Originally posted by scca: oh i forgot... i dont think the turbo wheels will fit. that extra bit is too much. i tried supra TT wheels from a 94 and they fit on the front but not the rear. i think they were 9"? 17x9 looked nice but too wide- i think they would work on a ZX. yes 9's could work on a ZX, pushing out a little up front maybe. I'm running the 16x8's with lots of clearance up front with 245's front and rear in race treads, streets I stuck w/ 225's for less 'wander'. Need to service my rear control arm bushings and throw some 315's out back but no idea what cheap rims I could put them on. FWIW, '98 cobra wheels are 17x8's v. similar in look to 'R' w/o the R in the centre ( a snake instead), lots of OEM and knock off replica's on ebay and your local buysell. 17" rims sure do jump up the tire prices though, that was the main reason I went w/ 16's that and the lighter wheels/tires etc once I knew they'd clear my 13" rotors.

howdy! a 400sbc280ZX, great stuff:-) have you got any pics of what they did on yours? I'm going to redo the full exhaust on my 350-280zx shortly. I have the manual rack'n'pinion and yes that shaft is in the way....My plan so far is to order some 1-3/4's huggers from www.rewarderheaders.com (or no 's' on it). what is your full system rundown? and motor/cam info? exhaust v. loud/idle/WOT/cruise etc? thanks

So what do you attribute the difference to? What rpm's did you have idle in neutral/in gear setup with the 700? and now w/ the t56?

quote: Originally posted by eurozx: i posted this in the 6cyl. board but it appears nobody cares! i have a 84 na engine and tranny that i got for free. it needs rebuilt. my current 82 engine realy needs a rebuild. no matter what engine i chose im upgrading the tranny, and diff. and anything else that should be upgraded for a big horespower engine. im sure the v6 engine will fit in the 280zx.. but how easy will it be to install fully? i dont want to have to change the rear end at all! i want the same 4 lug bolt pattern so i dont have to get new rims or have a set of 5 lug and a set of 4 lugs, eww. thanks. Quick comments: 1) what do you want out of your 'new' setup for goals/power/torque etc? NOONE has used a VG30NA for a swap that I know of except for 510's for whom their is a full kit for doing it. It's not exuding power so why rebiult it? You'd get more IMO for same $ with a 280ZXT motor hopped up somewhat (more boost/plumb cheap intercooler etc) 2)your diff should be fine, only change might be in ratios if you want some cheap torque/$ (you have a 3.54 ratio, going to a 4.11 nets 16% gain) 3) those VG motors are NOT EASY to work on, I wouldnt' take a free running one other than to sell it unless it's OE power was fine 4 my use, changing plugs is hassle 4) I like keeping things fairly simple, my plugs come in and out in <30minutes, can take that long to do one on a VG30. 5)your R200 diff is fine for the power etc, if you did change rear bolt pattern it's easy to convert the front over as well (use the 5 lug front 300 hubs, bolt on, then sort out a rotor issue and wheels) Lastly, the only question you really asked above was how hard it would be to do a full install on a VG30 in a 280zx which noone AFAIK has done hence no answer. It's often easier to decide on what you want overall (if we know we can help) list out the options and then go from their understanding the consequences of your chosen route prior to purchases.

quote: Originally posted by randy 77zt: try tire rack advertisemt in a car& driver mag or goto website.my favorite tire for street is bridge stone re71.quiet,good ride,very good grip wet or dry.i ahd yoko avs before too-this tires hooked into rain grooves on freeway and steered car around. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp?make=Bridgestone&model=Potenza+RE71 RE 71's are on a huge sale now, 730's might be a better choice at more $ though

Do you know which AVS tires they were? sports/S1's etc? I'm VERY dissapointed in my S1's, car lit up yesterday repeatedly before 1500rpm w/ 1/4 throttle on damp condition, they're getting changed tomorrow!

quote: Originally posted by Danno74Z: FYI - I found this site and this CO. builds rollbars and lots of other things. http://www.cachassisworks.com/ Danno74Z hehe, that's Chris Alston's stuff, never heard a complaint about his goods

quote: Originally posted by scca: Ross, interested if you have some lap times from Either SIR or THill. would like to compare a V8 ZX with my 510 for times? you would have a hell of a lot more HP but i would guess the 510 is very close even with your big brakes Mike/SCCA: Well if you're not faster around a course after your hundreds (thousands?) of hours of driving I wouldn't keep asking you so many questions:-) My SIR day this summer was RAIN so 30mph down front/slick/chemical straight and big fun everywhere else. Thill was chicane'd at end of front and the 1st backstraightaway to save our inexperienced asses (otherwise you're running a 120mph sweeper/etc as a rookie!) My driving experience from the 7 or so days I've done is just starting to add up to some gains IMO. Your 1700lb (1800 for class limits?) may brake better with your setup on your v. light car/treads etc (ie your contact patch/weight/ratios's must smoke mine). Although I'd sure enjoy a 'brake-off'. I'm just starting to analyze susp. geometry to improve in this area having most of the basic hardware and pleased with it. I think a 0-100-0 contest would be fun:-) And I welcome driving lessons anytime:-) PSS ever driven first 3 turns at Thill at WOT (115-120mph)? I rode with just such a skilled driver in a wicked 510 (Russ Kelso), v. enjoyable! Ride of my life to date. Ross (28, back at school and just glad I have a fun daily/track car:-)

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: Yeah, that's the same thing I was saying above your post. The starter gets hot by being bolted to the engine as well as radiant & convected heat from the exhaust system. Great (or not so great?) minds think alike At least we all agree the starter gets hot and therefore needs a stronger voltage/amp shot to pull in the solenoid. I don't think we have to reinvent the wheel here. Hotrodders etc have done remote solenoids for years and they work. $10 for the solenoid max and use the wiring URL I posted above, save the extra $15 going to summit IMO. No PN's needed, just get a heavy duty ford piece (ie. ask what was the largest engine in the ford truck in 80's, OK can I have that solenoid) done. Now I am curious if I remove my starter wrap how this would affect starter life (is engine heat or exhaust heat or compartment heat period the stronger factor...) As far as engine comp. heat, fender fans/ coating full exhaust/louvres etc etc IMO they are only needed for a hot running motor where rad/fan can't keep up. Doesn't matter to me if it's 100 or 200 in their, critical ECU's etc should be inside anyhow. I don't feel it in my cabin with insulation I'd of done anyhow for sound. If one wants cooler air for intake you should have a cold air system anyhow to maximize this. Yes all mods can be fun and ad to the complexity and possibly reward but just don't want others thinking a 30 minute wiring correction done for years needs to be complimented by $$$'s spent elsewhere as well. If someone else would expertly do ALL mod's mentioned above for free sure I'd take them, but not going to hit the top of my priority list soon or ever. Ross (back to studying, but heh, I sourced a 'free' copy of a suspension modelling program today (err rather a program capable of modellingsuspension:-))) [This message has been edited by Ross C (edited September 28, 2000).]

quote: Originally posted by clint78z: Ross what does the spherical bearing setup look like, does it use any type of rubber mounting to isolate road roise . The raer springs should be stiffer than the fronts right? (edited September 28, 2000).] It's incorporated into my (uninstalled) caster camber plates centrepiece, no rubbers at all, bearing fits the strut 'piston-rod' allowing it to rotate with it's top being fixed to the tower (piston rod passes thru bearing, strut nut bears ontop, like a heim joint centrepiece). Not sure how much road noise coming thru their will be a factor with the spring rates I'm running and those being bantered about:-) Stiff is stiff at this point:-(O) max pucker factor As well you then need a roller bearing (torrington) below or above the spring so it can also rotate freely as strut is turned it way want to stay in it's position........on the bottom is best in case you ever get the spring unloaded it's still resting on this bearing so a lesser shockload is sent to it Forgot to mention one easy way to check out various susp. travels that I did. I made all my 'bumpstops' so they could be pulled down the piston rod (ie. not fixed at the top, fixed by friction but not centre retaining hat), reach b/t your spring coils and pull it down to the bottom of your strut and drive it hard, see how far up your strut it ends up, this will be your max. travel 99% of the time. I shortened the 'stops' that came with my Tokico's as they were some 2"+ in length which I did not want (progressive/taper mind you), cut them in 2/3 or so FWIW.

quote: Originally posted by Frank280z: OK guys, I installed the 1/0 gauge back to the battery with 3/8 term. Same prob. Is this heat soak. I skipped on the remote sel. for now. Just to take it out. I'll try the remote sel. and see if that cures it....hopefully. Frank Yes that's heat soak. On instant shutoff like you say it will fire as you have it insulated so it's not 'that' hot yet, then it 'soaks' in the 15 minutes and can't pull enough voltage/amps to overcome heat effect. Remote solenoid will give you a v. strong shot. I wired my remote battery direct to this solenoid and used it as the terminal to everything else. Just got a F*rd heavy duty one at a parts shop for $10 or less. here's a good writeup with all you'll need to do it http://www.chevelles.com/techref/tecref4.html

quote: Originally posted by Mikelly: ...Question, did you have to use shorter springs and mount your coil over perch higher than the tire to get the clearance to allow for wider wheel/ tire combos??? I'm thinking of purchasing the Ford Mustang Cobra R wheels, which are 17X9.5 with a 5.9 back spacing and I'm wondering how to mount my coilovers.... Well not running 17's but principles are still the same. As pete says check out your geometry, I'd try to fit an 8" spring in their if you can but if not 7" is OK. Your choice, where do you want you wheel? flush with outer lip or tight to strut or possibly both just trying to fit it period with that size. My 280ZX will be different from yours but Pete makes some great points in that going to a custom top perch (if your strut tube top is same as mine I have a sperical bearing PN) will increase upper 'room' to fit a longer spring. With OE upper perch I needed to go to 7" springs to keep the lower perch above my tire. The bottom of my threaded tube is dead centre with my tread so I flush ground that washer that supports the threaded tube as flush as I could with plane of tire etc and got 1/8" or so clearance their with 245's on my 16x8's (custom spacers etc).[threaded tube is ~1/8" thick max and sits v. tight to tube so only decreases potential rim clearance by that 1/8, washer was 3/8's or so but no point leaving the xtra on! in a small spot I needed clearance anyhow] Tire won't flex up top so that's lots of clearance for me their. If you can fit 8" springs now then go ahead and set it up as such. Your adjustment won't be above the strut base so not as many q's as I think some create. I see it more as a spring length choice and not so much as where to put the 4" tube as their isn't that much variance in that choice. Not sure why you're so concerened about bottoming out a 7" or for that matter an 8" spring Pete? You'd need some additional 1500 lb load on that ONE corner with a 7"/300lb/in.(assume 2" static compression, shock takes some) spring which I see as v. extreme for a non-rally car. I haven't come close to bottoming mine out yet, will have to check rear rate, front's are 350. Shorter springs do have a more limited choice of rates in the more affordable springs. 8" seems to have all the choices one could need. Once I put in my upper plates I could likely go back to 8" springs but no real reason since 7's are working. I will order 8's though if I get a 'soft' set for winter driving. .02c CD clear as mud?

quote: Originally posted by Morgan: I'm still trying to find out the spring rates of the various aftermarket OE dimension springs. Nobody seems to know! have you called up Ground Control to see what all info/advice they have on what's available? Jay is quite helpful and Tony can be alright as well. I"m actually thinking of rounding up some softer springs for winter use......anyone with used 240 stuff might be suitable for my 280zx...(2.5" springs, 7-8" length)

quote: Originally posted by Drax240z: Hey Ross, did you manage to get the KVR's from anyone in vancouver? just wondering if there is a way to get them without having to do the exchange/duty/shipping thing. I'm going to need some new pads soon. KVR's out of Ontario so I usually just have them sent out from their, no duties etc as you know. You CAN (if big $'s are involved) have them ship to WA for ie. and bill a US address and no taxes are billed. Then you deal with border entry how you wish. I forgot to mention how CRITICAL it is to use KVR"s recc'd bed in procedure. If you don't they can dust off in a days hard use! Be sure to ask if they don't tell you. 5 or 6 40mph->10mph gradual stops AIR and then let it sit for a few hours to completely cool off. As usual you should always avoid bedding in new pads and rotors at the same time, one or the other but never both unless you have no option. PSS forgot to mention, all KVR pads I've bought were practically same price (or less!) than OE replacement pads, I saved the best part for last:-) [This message has been edited by Ross C (edited September 26, 2000).] [This message has been edited by Ross C (edited September 26, 2000).]

quote: Originally posted by Andrew Bayley: P(v)=nRT Ideal Gas Law Has anybody stood behind their car while it was warming up on a particularly cold day? Smelled a little rich, didn't it? -not once I got the choke setup right A quick and easy way for the OEM to drastically reduce tailpipe emissions is to increase the operating temperature of the engine. With the hotter combustion chamber temperatures, the incoming air charge will be less dense. -Andy I do follow what you're saying and agree majority of manufacturer's efforts have been to meet emissions issues and the byproduct of some of their efforts has been more power to their surprise in many instances. But jumping up to bit " With the hotter combustion chamber temperatures, the incoming air charge will be less dense. " a higher head temperature can not dictate a less dense incoming air charge IMHO? Intake air temp is independent and if V.E. is good the air no matter what temp the source has, is drawn in and has a volume (swept volume) to fill. If engine has cold air intake and is drawing in 80F air it's making substantially more power than same temp head pulling in 180 degree engine bay air (~10% more from what they say). Now I don't know if the engine/intake of air happens fast enough to negate expansion of the air it just ingested and hinder filling of the cylinder or if it's fast enough to make this expansion before firing negligible? If I'm in lala land feel free to let me know:-) Been doing more soil/earthquake dynamics lately than thermo.

Great to find another KVR devotee! I absolutely LOVE their pads. Ran them on my OE brakes for 2 yrs and still hadn't gone thru the set and rotors looked like new! After 4 or 5 SIR lappin days (major brakes, overheated MC every time) and never could get them to fade at all. Great street and super track IMO. www.kvrperformance.com or a dash after kvr John mentioned brake system feedback/experiences. My OE system was OK but had no heat capacity under roadracing duty at lapping days. This winter I finally finished my 13" brake upgrade on my 280ZX. Noone has offered one so I finally spent better part of my free time for 8 mos (did NOT want wilwoods 'race' calipers with no dust seals requirign servicing once/twice a year!). working it thru. In the end I can say my custom system installs v. easily and immproves tenfold for ease of servicing/trackside or anywhere. I went thru Puhn's book and worked out what rotor size/mass I needed and 12's were too borderline for my setup. For a lighter 240 or 280 (I'd thought 280's were same as 280ZX but #'s look lower?) the 12's might be fine. Right now all I have is my custom 13" setup which I proved out v. well this summer at Mt. Shasta, last brake marker or later all over Thunderhill. Took a few for a ride to enjoy the 'anchor' effect:-) My system does neccessitate swapping to a 5 lug system as I've based my setup on slip on brembo rotors and some aluminum PBR calipers for v. easy rotor change if ever needed (always hated my OE bolt on rotor setup). A 2nd identical setup will be done towards Xmas as to verify it's as easy on another as it was on mine (ie. manufaturing tolerances etc). Then I'll offer it to others, runs ~$900US which includes all brake parts/hardware/custom SS lines/rotors/calipers/brackets etc. You convert your hubs yourself with easy dirxn's or I supply that complete at xtra $. Considering my setup is superior in specs to a 12"baer system that starts at $900 I was v. pleased to be able to do it for same dough for a non-production (ie. big) market/car. What I noticed as the huge gain was that now it is so much EASIER to modulate the brake effort from 90% to 99%. I'd guess OE system would compare as having 70% of same braking if that. An OE system of 40-50% less brake torque just can't find that modulation as it can't exert the same effort. John Haag of Denver road w/ me and experienced it but I haven't seen him in here yet (he has a V8 280ZX as well). PS The 13's are tucked under lightweight 16" wheels, haven't seen that v. often;^)Kept my corner weight same or less than OEM.

Just FWIW, slotted or crossdrilled rotors can also be a maintenance item as brake dust collects/bakes. Most modern peformance pads have a groove that accomodates outgassing requirements. I most often hear of 'preventing' outgassing problems and having rotor fade/heat but it seems consisten that many want to prevent a problem they haven't proven exists (outgassing) Both processes reduce the rotor mass which is THE critical component for roadracing non-fade/temp issues as well as increasing heat stress/riser initiators. Herb Puhn explains it such that you have a nominal ave. temp of your rotor during a lapping day and during your max stop (say off a straightaway) from 150mph=>60mph that rotor HAS to be able to take all that heat as their is no significant cooling of the rotor during that single maneuvre. The rest of the time ducts etc are all essential to keep your ave. rotor temp reasonable etc but you can't get away from the initial mass requirement. Some only attend smaller tracks and/or never roadrace so won't have the same average rotor temp maybe. Just didnt' want that to be ignored. Rotors/pads etc will all live longer if the whole system stays in a happy temp range. <1000F was Puhn's max design temp. Quite an enjoyable book I found. Hope it didn't come across too strong, just seen some on other lists I"m on spend 100's on 'special' rotors and still warp them and have to clean out baked residue etc. I'll also never forget a modified Z32 w/ the 13" crossdrilled brembo setup, cracks from every hole!

quote: Originally posted by clint78z: Ross that post from the DIY EFI is off in lala land . Now he was honest saying "Now - depending on how far off the deep end you want to go, " I never said that'd be easy tuning wise, could be cheap partswise.. but anyhow, I enjoyed the twist in approach. So thinking lots about multiport if an ECU/injector deal screams at me but meanwhile I see no harm/lost $ in pursueing a TBI setup if parts come cheap enough. Here it lists what I understand to be needed harware wise to make your own EPROM's http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/faq/starting.html eprom burner $139 US (can be had for $90 in bulk...that'd be a nice savings!) eraser $49 memcal adaptor $4.20 spare Eproms $1 each, say 5 for starters so $197.20 for hardware and software can be had freely I am actively looking for a dual carb/cross ram intake like Drewz but having my Victor Jr. a single 4bbl TBI would be welcome as well if it could support my setup (can TBI injectors be upgraded?? I'd guess that's pricey, pretty sure their airflow is fine) Is a GM TBI setup sensitive to backpressure? I've heard the 4Di setup is and you need a 3/8's minimum return line or it acts up. Be nice to use my OE lines for now (keeping in budget).

Just to ease the navigation http://members.home.net/pparaska/DrewZ2.htm

quote: Originally posted by BLKMGK: FWIW - I believe the Edelbrock carbs are pretty much just liek th eQjets so I'm puzzled that he thinks they're better. Tuning rods and all - sort of liek Demons and Holly's I think. Well edelbrock does make CARB/OEM replacement qjets which are v. similar and some parts swap back and forth. But the squarebore/performer series is quite different in design (vast improvement for us less patient DIY tuners) with no real parts crossing over. Needles do look similar but that's about as far as it goes. Otherwise I wouldnt' of bought their performer tuning kit as I have lots of qjet tuning bits (anyone need any...).