Slow_Old_Car

not sure about the other folks, but a jig for this one already exists and i could produce more. i'm working on pricing.

get copper plugs...

have you 110% beyond the shadow of a doubt ensured that your mechanicle timing matches what the MSnS is seeing? (assuming your running SnS and not just squirt). Having that 1 statement equal false will pretty much make everything else your doing pointless.

Dealing with a RB25 where the bearings look a little beat up. I've found OEM obviously as well as ACL race bearings. But i figured i'd check here 1st to see if there were other brands that were commonly used depending on where in the world your looking for them. Mains and rods. Motors going into a drift car so it's going to have a lot of hang time at higher RPM's, looking to put some really good bearings in to do what we can in effort to fortify it for it's future abuse.

Are you building this all yourself? If not, feel free to come by my shop and we can discuss building your headers for you. Have a LS powered S30 sitting in here right now that we did. PM me for address.

No doubt, i've got a 12 pack riding on a twisted block surface myself. Cyl head as i recall is relatively fresh. Tunes good too.

amazing things happen with a proper tune! (until the highly abused motor craps another HG)

i'm a pretty big fan of the platnium series systems. it's where haltechs headed, it's got ton's of cool features, the 2000 series will do full sequential with plenty of i/o's for adding on fans/meth/etc, can integrate boost control, wideband, etc.. i think if your going to drop the cash on EMS, getting a good system out of the box will not only give you more options for now, it will grow with you later on down the road as well. good example as i scroll through the haltech product list, say you went to a P2000 system. you could have boost control built in, wideband, skip all the aftermarket gauges and interface with a racepak display right out of the gate (usually ending up $100-200 cheaper than your standard gauge layout in autometer sport comp's or the like, ALOT cheaper than defi or the likes). but then 2 years from now you might get bored, it happens right? say you want a v8 now instead... maybe an LS1. still like the inline 6, but now a 2JZ sounds good. even crazier still say you wanted to go 13b or somthing. in most cases if you get that motor stuffed in with a stock harness, haltech will have a jumper harness to adapt their box to that wiring harness, so the box just evolved with your car. we've used the P2000 equivalent system on alot of G35/350z's (its a straight plug and play with can bus interface for that platform, but the software is the same) its very very slick. good stuff.

looking to buy the turbo oil drain tube from the ZXT's, the little L shaped piece tube with the drain flange on it. if you've got one, let me know a price shipped to 77070

I could build you a MSnS system with a relatively P&P harness, you'd still have to provide a 12v, 12v switched, and a ground. But i could build everything else to be modular if your interested. Just gotta go over extream detail regarding your engine combo before i start building the harness.

I'm factory direct distributor, what system would you like?

pulled a running L28 out of a 77' about a month ago, with a rebuilt 5 speed transmission, doing an LS1 swap. had solid 160's across the board for compression, was running on MSnS and was pretty peppy for being an n/a L block. LMK if your interested and i'll see what we can work out. freights gonna be amusing.

i'll see about taking it to the track tonight for the hell of it, not entirely thrilled about trying to pilot the car with no sway bars though. but hey, you only live once!

cars not currently setup to go to the strip, spring rates are all wonky since we've also been experimenting with coil over setups and rates in the back, so it's got a bad see-saw effect right now and no sway bars. i can try to get it out to the track, but it's 1.5 hours away and unlikely i'd be able to get out that way any time soon. we'll see.

Have any of the people talking about the 3.36 for drag setups actually tried to launch one? Granted this may all be a mute point the next time this car goes back since it will have CV's and can theoretically leave at redline. But i'm speaking from experience at least regarding the u-joints equipped setups, if you try to launch hard on a 3.36 in a drag race you'll either bog or break, no real option for tire spin on a decent height tire (26.2" in the case i'm reffering too) Sure you could slip the ever loving piss out of your clutch to try and walk that fine line, but then your depleating the clutch life substantially with each pass. It's extreamly nice everywhere except 1st gear, no doubt... but getting a 3.36 car out of the hole well is not easy at all with a 5 speed. I suspect that if identical cars lined up 3.36 to 3.54 that the 1/8th mile would go to the 3.54 car and the 1/4 would be a toss up. in regards to the manifold, testing continued today. it's starting to look like the 2.5" intercooler i/o and piping are now a restriction choking the larger intake plenum. were going to put a stock manifold on tommorow and test again to confirm our theory, but as of this moment, this manifold will likely be the choice of serious horsepower guys who are willing to run 3" intercooler plumbing setups and will be port matching their cylinder heads. were looking into producing a 2.5" compatible plenum design, but that will be a ways off.

maybe on the back half, trying to launch one at anything but a redline dump, especially on u-joints... its not good. speaking from experience on this one.. with the new CV's we'll go to the track, 235/60/15 mickey drag radials, and leave at 6000rpm. we'll either go fast, or explode a stub axle.

on this car? prob never, 3.36 rear gear, setup for long sweeping curves on track days. i'll give it a go though, i expect it will do a low 12 or high 11 with some rediculous E/T. now if we can sort out somthing this winter with that discussion we were having, i might give that a whirl just to see

yea, i'm not really surprised that were down on power with the new drivetrain, a cheap price to pay for a bomb proof driveline i feel.

bolted it on when we got back, dropping by OS Gikens booth lit a fire under our ass. we've affixed our high RPM short runner design to the same car that put out the previous numbers. and found that we have a warped flange from welding the assembly up, so we'll be pulling it back off to deck it as well as our long runner torque manifold. then we'll go back and try again. hopefully we'll get them decked and reinstalled sometime this week and can update then. it should also be noted we dyno'd the car again on the existing setup from the previous numbers, but now with a Z32 5 speed and CV conversion and have lost 20hp. did a quick run through the tune and nothings jumping out at us, so the beefier driveline has a bit of an appetite it seems.

can you post a scan of the dyno read out?

+1 for 235/60/15's on a 15x8 +0 offset (centerline star in my case), the mickey drag radials are a pretty fat 235 tire though, so my rubs are able to occur even in crossing railroad track bumps and whatnot. lowered on eibach pro-kit springs.

will make changing tail light related stuff interesting...

get 90 degree long handle needle nose pliers from your local auto parts place and file/grind the tips down to where they work, it also helps to grind in a slighly raked in profile to each tip to encourage better grip. i'd heard of other guys buying a different tool, possibly from a dodge dealership, but i've always used the same set of modded 90 degree pliers ever since the 1st setup i did. be ready with a couple smaller flatheads to steak between the snap ring and the compressor housing as you go along.