Slow_Old_Car

hokes used 2.5" or 3" inlet piping, and 280zforces ran 4" under the core support.

going to play left field here... what MAP sensor does phil have in that megasquirt, cause if it's the standard 2.5 bar it comes with, he passed it's read range around 22-23psi. with those AFR's i'll agree he's probally heating the exhaust side up pretty good.

Most recent car i built has 100% stock core support w/ 2.5" piping in the above photo'd configuration, then 4" mandrel aluminum intake piping that snakes under the frame rail to end w/ the filter right behind the driverside air duct of the xenon air dam. I don't see anyone getting a hot side IC pipe, a cold side IC, and a 4" intake system all through one side of the core support with out going to a custom core support layout or hacking the hell out of the stock one.

at what boost? and w/ or w/ out meth?

old best was a 11.8x if i remember his sig right... so 3 tenths. i think he changed tires too though.

my main complaint with that, and the reason i haven't run one like that on my own car, is that it really does look like a CFM restriction, but i've never seen official CFM numbers so i've always errored on the the side of safety and ran a larger filter.

The more i think about it, the more i'll agree w/ the leaving the motor as is train of thought. A focus on good tires, brakes, wipers, and AC would probally be all it needs. I'd owned, driven, and raced much faster cars before i daily drove that Z. It was a turd comparatively. The real challenge from his young driver standpoint will be that 1st time someone at his school cracks a comment about his car looking fast, but getting ripped by _______. Thats always a uniquely rough situation to be in as a young male. If his school mates are VW Bugs and 92-95 honda cx's he'll be fine. But if he really likes that guys girlfriend, that guy w/ the modded mustang and such, that could be a problem.

shoot big phil a PM, or go poke through his videos or photo albumn. i know he runs AC on his HY'd L28. but i don't know if he's running around unfiltered or not. my solution to the situation would be to pie cut 4" piping and make the needed radius to get behind the compressor and put the filter elsewhere. a simple way to do it would be to make a box design that uses all the space possble from the ac compressor to the inlet, making the transition to 4" round for a silicon coupler only at the very last second. this design however obviously will not flow nearly as well, so it's a trade off of one need for another. it's all a matter of what level of peformance you want vs. comfort.

agreed, just make a custom length throttle stop to replace the stock one on the floor, it's mearly a rod w/ a bumper on the end. but the point about making sure the car isn't unsafe on the highway is valid too, definately would need to do some trial and error to find the comprimise point between the reduction in speed and still being able to safely navigate a modern highway. my personal .02 as having daily driven a Z though, is that it is useless unless it's got very good AC, a rewired wiper motor/honda motor swap, and some good tires and fresh brakes... it's probally not the best canidate as a childs 1st car. i daily drove one when i was 19, had the car a total of 3 weeks as my daily, nearly died 3 times, after that it was retired to weekend status. When it would rain, it would fog up the windshield to where you couldn't see (partially from the climate here i'm sure), without the great working AC, you had to pull over and wait out the storm while cooking in the Z. Cracking the windows didn't help. If you kept moving at a decent speed you might have been o.k., except the stock Z wipers are a joke, so your speed to maintain decent sight was so low it made it impossible to move enough air to keep the windshield in check. Then the brakes, which this could have been partly related to my use of standard off the shelf 40-50k mile tires at the time. In any freshly watered surface condition, especially light drizzle situations, the car became a lock up nightmare. That attributed for 2 of the 3 close calls, with both instances being at speeds under 30mph. I personally found a Z to be a handful for a daily driver. If yours is 100% functional then that could be different, but stuff as simple as working AC and capable wipers really should be addressed before it is to be considered an all weather daily driver.

the IC plumbing can be done to clear a compressor, that part is easy. it's getting a air filter thats worth a damn to fit in the minimal space between the inlet of the turbo and the butt of the compressor that becomes the issue. i'm sure somthing could be "rigged up" to work, but i've yet to see an efficient design that deals w/ the issue. i have had some ideas though.

sounds like ya might have jumped the gun. you start the drive w/ small talk feeling her opinions out on cars in general. if her answers come back as being good for a possible "car chick", then you bait a question about the fastest thing she's ever been in. this lead's to the proposal of "so how does this strike you then" and THAT is when you drop the hammer, weather and area permitting, in a fashion which produces a bit of tail swag, then brutal acceleration. and the true masters will try to time all of this, to have that one moment of hammer down action, occur as they pass by somthing ALOT more expensive looking to sweeten the pot some.

I have a SU car sitting in my garage, i've never really thought up how to put a fogger system on it since i'm an EFI guy, but let me go stare at it for a bit and try to come up with a design. What is your deadline for this race? Shoot me a PM with the specifics

Yea i was looking at those plates/bricks you machined from and had been cringing behind my keyboard thinking how expensive they must have been. This will definately be a one off, and ultimately timeless piece of engineering i suspect. I just can't wait to see what numbers it puts out with all the trick gear your fabbing up.

put $1200 into nitrous, but with you running SU's you'll have to do more plumming to either put dual wet foggers (one for each SU) or more cash for direct port foggers. Regardless, with compression that low, the most power gain for the money you will get will be nitrous. Run 1st and second gear as you normall do, then use the shot on 3rd and 4th.

Feed it a shot of nitrous if this is a temporary speed fix. 75 wet shot in third and fourth should bring your ET's down nicely.

woohoo 6 hours left. kinda sucks i screwwed up the 5 day part so now it's ending so late on a sunday night. but i suppose that means it will go to someone who really wants it.

You may need to shim up the pivot ball in the bell housing. Since your tranny is out, put a couple of washers under the pivot ball tower to bring it out 1/4" or so. When you've re-assembled, if it still does not work, you may have run into a problem with the plunger rod on the clutch master itself. I had this happen once and it had me pulling every part of the system apart for a week straight before i figured it out (cause everything was brand new) Before you re-assemble, get under your dash, with a sharpie mark on the plunger pushrod mark where it sits against the casing grommet of the master cylinder. Then grab the clutch pedal and press it all the way till it his the stopper, and mark that position on the plunger rod at the master cylinder grommet. Now take the cotter pin out so that the plunger falls away from the clutch pedal arm. Go remove the bolts and remove the clutch master. Set it on a work bench or the likes, and depress the plunger 100%, if your line that you marked with the clutch arm doing the depression disappears inside the clutch master casing, then you are not getting full pressure to the clutch slave. Thus screwwing yourself out of movement length. In the end, with parts being hard to get, my solution was to ad 1/2" of bar into the plunger rod itself via welding it inline. I reassembled, re-bled, and presto it worked.

i guess i spaced out when i was retyping the listing for like the 5th time and somehow still ended up doing a 7 day listing. thats frustrating. anyway, that means it will be ending Sunday the 10th, around 10pm central standard time. currently there are 43 people watching the auction, so it should be an interesting ending i imagine. or it will drive you to drink, whatever.

Not sure, the AEM forums regarding this is just about complete rubbish. This UEGO system has been working in my car for 2 years or so now, so i'm more inclined to go with absolute failure. I just can't figure out why having the voltmeter clamped onto the join point of the white and pink wires causes the readings on the laptop to change a full 2-3 points leaner. The voltmeter has it's own batteries built in so it's not sapping power, just doesn't make sense. Unfortunately i'm also the only UEGO user around here that i know, so simple swapping the gauge brain to determine if it has gone bad isn't an option.

I'm leaning towards bad UEGO controller at this point since i had this laptop, this megatune install, this connection cable, all plugged into the other Z i was datalogging for the aluminum vs. mild steel thread, which that car had a Innovative LC-1, its own seperate profile w/ LC-1 setting.ini, and then an identical MSnS v2.2 setup.

I've gone through and cleaned every contact splice pertaining to the wideband and it's controller. I also have taken the wideband display off the steering column and in doing so and checking it's connections found brown discoloration on the plug that goes into the back of the display on the ground wires terminal. Since the unit is still operational it makes me think the grounding path is good, but this could have damaged somthing on the circutry inside possibly i suppose.But without a circut schimatic i wouldn't be able to figure anything definative out for sure that i can think of. Anyone have any ideas that i might have missed in trouble shooting this?

This is really wierd... Busted out the calibration sheet that AEM has on there instructions... Fixed points: Car is sitting still at idle turning 850rpms, making 13.8v at idle. Situation 1: Car on and idling, with a multimeter hooked up at the join point between the output wire of the UEGO (white wire), and the 02 input wire of the MSnS harness (pink wire). UEGO displays 13.0:1 AFR MegaTune displays 11.6-11.8:1 AFR Multimeter shows 1.00-1.07v which equates to 12.00-12.25 AFR Situation 2: Car on and idling, with no multimeter hooked up at the join point between the output wire of the UEGO (white wire), and the 02 input wire of the MSnS harness (pink wire). UEGO displays 13.0:1 AFR MegaTune displays 14.5-14.7:1 AFR Multimeter is not hooked up and therefor displays nothing Situation 3: Car on and idling, with multimeter hooked up at the end point of the output wire of the UEGO (white wire), with the 02 input wire of the MSnS harness (pink wire) having been disconnected. UEGO displays 13.0:1 AFR MegaTune displays 9.72:1 AFR as it is recieving no signal obviously Multimeter shows .99-1.09v which equates to 12.00-12.25 AFR

I'm sitting out here in my driveway right now w/ my car idling, the AEM UEGO wideband gauge on my steering column says between 12.6-13.0 idle AFR like usual. The air:fuel ratio readout in MSnS reads 15.4-16.2ish. I've checked the settings.ini file and the UEGO 0-5v setup is turned on according to it. So i don't see why the readings are getting skewwed. Car is idling at 160 degrees right on the thermostat and has been for about 20 mins, so i am fairly certain the readings coming from the MSnS gauge side are innacurate cause i'd be heating up pretty good at that lean of an AFR. Any suggestions? The only thing i can think of that i've changed in recent times was i went from this laptop i'm on having one single megasquirt n' spark profile, to having 3 different cars profiles on here. But even then i created new files for each car, which then assigned there own files in the MSnS directory, of which each one has a seperate settings.ini file. I'm trying to rough out a tune for the track this weekend, so i gotta figure this beast out pretty soon.

Looks good, i'm restating my interest in picking up a couple flange and plenum sets if there is a second run. Just let me know.

Yea i wrote the auction thinking about you and your salt flat stuff too... i imagine this diff would be the end all option for the R200 guys. I haven't read a out the door price on the TTT R230 setup either, but i suspect the 3.15 would come out cheaper for those not requiring a 2.XX gearset to get the job done.