Slow_Old_Car

440cc's, we've run them to over 22-23psi before on other engines. this time though, whatever cam this is in the head eats alot of air in the upper RPM's and just tapped the injectors out. larger units have arrived, we'll get them installed and setup soon hopefully. been busy with alot of other stuff though. once they are put in we'll do road tuning of the map to compensate for the new larger injectors, then hit the dyno again for final numbers. i want to send it back to the dyno in the winter too, i'm guessing it will make a fair bit more power in the cold considering what it did in a nearly 100 degree dyno room.

Sorry, missed this question before. 2mm HKS gasket, unknown piston specs (told forged, but pulling the head and taking my own measurements to get a number wasn't part of the build). Told to build the car with a 7:1ish motor in mind.

pics!

+1 on NA Z32 trans swap. cost ya a bit up front, but it's cheap insurance knowing you no longer have to worry about the gearbox ever again, period.

just did these on another Z, 255/50/16 rears w/ flares, 235/55/16 fronts, will need to roll the fenders a bit in the front

the bottom graph? thats a boost plot, not AFR's. we weren't logging AFR's on the dyno, those were being logged in MegaSquirt.

Please see my post above, and PM me with where to pay and total balance if that spare flange is up for grabs.

I'll take that spare set if your refunding the guy, just PM me if it's good to go.

at 19psi w/ the conservative timing, forged slugs, ARP hardware, 7:1 CR, it's nothing it can handle all day every day. the tires on the other hand might disagree with that.

i've done the Arizona Z unit, which was shipped to me in Texas. I've also used the Jegs universal piece listed on this site and tigged brackets up for it before. I believe koyo has been in talks with this forum to build a unit as well.

What? lol

There's w/ RPM's selected.

the dyno owner had it set up for MPH, whenever i redo the stuff in winpep7 here at home w/ RPM, portions of the graph disappear. I'll see if i can get better screen caps w/ RPM's up. The dyno readings are also shy by 5-10hp/tq vs. what they were saying on the dyno PC at the dyno facility. All pulls were made from 2,000rpm to the 6,500rpm set in the MSnS.

Gotta look beyond the up front stuff. Seeing as you are coming from L28ET land, i'll assume your fuel system is up to snuff w/ a small re-route of lines. But factor in the immediate known replacements like driveshaft, headers, full exhaust. Depending on if your building parts yourself or shelling out, you could drop 1k in exhaust work alone w/ some nice mufflers and a very well thought out system. I think that phrase about taking any given builds budget, and doubling it, is a fairly accurate statement. Cause that really is how it seems to go. This is all assuming that the motor you get doesn't end up having bearings in it that look like someone went at them with a ball peen hammer too.

Not a fan of the new digital profec series, mainly due to the interface system. I've seen nothing but rock solid performance from it on the customer car i put it on, just kinda odd to use. I like the older profec's, dual solenoid setup, rotary dials for boost mode 1 and boost mode 2, plus the gain knob, and a power button, simple. three PSI levels (2 adjustable, 1 wastegate spring pressure) at your fingertips with the touch of one button. Regardless, you got a damn good deal.

something like this should accomplish the same effect right? install it in place of the oil filter on the block, then put a remote filter w/ a cooler inline?

i disagree on flange placement, i belive a centered out design would be more ideal as it clears a path for downpipes alot easier. only downside is the iffy nature of which guys have AC and which do not.

video coming shortly... the rough power curve on the 19psi is partially from blowing spark out, and partially from the injectors being static. were going to attempt to convince the owner to run 550-700's and go back just to see if we can clean the curve up some (and maybe find another 100whp )

so i went and watched big phils videos looking to get a dyno number out of them. 339 seemed to bet he one i got. today, w/ a hybrid Z members car that i built, it went to 362whp/358ft.lbs. at 19psi of boost. on a holset hy35w turbo, 93 octane pump gas, and no methanol. i'm fairly happy w/ the cars results.... the difference between big phils car and this car would be a mystery cam that was put in at some point before i ever took responsibility for the cars build. regardless, rather than the usual high torque figures we see along w/ the WHP, this cars fairly equal. and the torque is flat as a rock. i'll post up videos and dyno charts tommorow, but i was fairly impressed.

coming back to that though, don't most guys deform the end of the pipe before welding to the flange anyway? pretty sure every manifold i've seen so far has had a hammered out end to resemble port shape. i think one thread even detailed how they achieved it.

flange thickness should be on par with stock intake manifold flange thickness in order to prevent needing washers IMO. i'll bust out the micrometer and measure a spare intake manifold flange later tonight and report back. but then again everyone may be o.k. w/ washers.

11's for a street car is good enough to take out 80% of the stuff you'll encounter on the roads in and around Houston. at the strip you might be cannon fodder though for Houstons exceptionally high average speed. nothing a single stage kit wouldn't fix though

No hurting himself with that thing, its my understanding that they have a very small range of performance in the RPM and are otherwise a wind up toy the rest of the time.