Slow_Old_Car

that summit tool specifically says it's not designed to flare stainless.

nothing about that car screams "well built" to me... the times are complete BS i imagine.

Damn, thats some real progress!

i'm going through your car domain right now, care to post up some high res shots of the engine bay in this thread though?

You don't need a holset to hit 300whp. But you can get it at 10-13psi with proper setup of the rest of the engine.

ivan, are ya'll going to reinforce the front end some more i assume? or are you leaving it to purely those 2 bars to make up for everything you cut out?

comes down to wheel width and back spacing. i've personally run/seen 235/60/15 BFG's, 235/60/15 mickey drag radials, and and 28x9's fit under the back of stock fender Z's. it's all in the backspacing.

pusher fan i take it?

i'm more curious if anyone knows where to find those push on fittings at with a decent selection? i've been trying to find a vendor that carrys them for a long time now.

thats my guess too, though i've heard there is a company out there that got very very close to TSG paint.

that ones not a cross flow, it's setup like the stockers, i saw it though and was definately curious.

.10 here... is there a reason ya'll are tapping these rather than just drilling and then tigging on a bung to the two hole areas? i'm just curious if there is any answer to this that isn't "because i don't have a tig" cause if thats the only answer, i think when i do this i'll try tigging on bungs.

440's will get you into the 17-21psi territory safely if your stock cam, if your aftermarket cam it could eat up that sooner. just depends on the appetite for air it has up top.

I compared a X02 unit (which if i'm guessing right CX, X02, etc... they all come from the same maker) side by a side with a precision unit. The big differences i found were in the finning. The china mades use wider FPI counts and are straight shot. The precision unit had a tighter FPI count, as well as individual fin staggaring in the core itself. The end tanks on both units were nothing to write home to mom about, both had internal casting markings, though i would suspect that precision might have actually done a bit of CFD analysis prior to casting theres (no signs of it, just basing that off there rep for turbos and testing data). The real difference between the china units and the good stuff is in the core i believe. Though i've never had the opportunity to test 2 identical sized units back to back to figure out if the fancy core section warrants the price tag increase. It definately would make sense to see the good cores out perform the china ones given the fact they should have a bigger effective front cross section with that tighter FPI and staggaring, but it could also be a flow killer making the deeper regions of the core lose efficiency compared to the china straight through models. No way to know w/ out testing the two designs on a car and logging the IAT's, or if someone has one of those fancy fleer cameras

was just there there this weekend, which one were you looking at cause i was on craiglist farting around the Dallas CL while i was up there.

bolts to the compressor housing, then to the wastegate valve on the exhaust housing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=010&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=200233831618&rd=1

are the links working for anyone else? they are dead for me.

Sounds like we need to organize a meet to me. Or a track day. Or both. There is a meet on Saturday nights that is comprised solely of classic cars from all around Houston, takes place in NW Houston. That could be fun.

i think .090 is overkill. every system i've built has been .060 wall and could take alot of abuse without ever being torn open.

I disagree, this is a flow system. Heat can't rise in a open air fashion when under pressure. The bigger importance would be efficent core flow.

I don't think his pipe routing is the issue. Have a look at this thread jeff: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=133438&highlight=IAT If i had to look for any one marker, i'd look at the size of that intercooler. CFD analysis on that type of intercooler has shown it will recycle hot air across the 1st few rows without proper inside ducting. I think that may be what is happening to you. The readings for the mild steel piped car in the linked thread above are from the GM IAT sensor being mounted in the intake manifold, right where the cold start injector use to be. By my groups standards, that mild steel car runs too hot all the time, and picks up too much heat under boost. It still is clocking in at least 10 degree's cooler than your car under full tilt boogie. Given the shape of your intercooler, i could see air pouring around it, as opposed to the other thread where at least for the 2 cars i tested, the intercoolers are 12x24x3" cores that are snugged up right against the face of the core support to create a big heat exchange sandwhich with the radiator. Moving it down into the airstream a bit could help, but i believe you'll see bigger gains if you duct it out about 6" or so, basically a big retainer wall to keep the air filing through the core instead of spilling over the end tanks. Go down to a local supply store, pick up some cheap roofing flash tin, and cut yourself up a mock up duct ram setup, take some aluminum flash tape, affix it to the intercooler, and go do some test runs logging. If it reduces IAT's by the end of your run, make a real one. If not, junk the idea and start considering a larger IC or Meth/Alky injection.

Very true lol.

I do it myself, because it is the only way i can be sure that it was done right. You can buy someone elses project any day, along with there projects problems.

thats pretty high temps if you have aluminum piping, about on par if you have mild steel piping and do the behind the radiator cold side piping. aluminum and a short cold side piping setup will yield a large drop in IAT's vs an assumed mild steel long cold side setup