rayaapp2

The S1 and S2 setups are not that different. The extra circuit that powers the ignitor just doesnt exist and I found that I did not need to wire up any power wire for the VVT solenoid and injectors like described by Chris Rummel's writeup. The wire colors are almost identical as well. I think there was one wire that was not the same colors as the S1 stuff, but I was able to trace it down to the ECU and verify the the Pin #. I would start by following the FSM procedures for diag. Make sure your power and grounds are excellent and that you have good relays. Ive had issues with the stock relays in the past and its usually because of poor wiring(connections). The other thing to check is the CAS drive. Ive seen a few people brake those drives off. DO NOT attempt to pull the coils and fire them. IF the coils are not grounded properly while they are discharged they can burn the coils up. To properly check spark I find it best to pull the coil and install a conventional spark plug wire and use an inductive pickup to see spark. If you have access to an O-scope you can connect you inductive clamp over the wire much easier this way and analyze the spark in detail. None of the Snap On adapters work on our coils that I have found. The Toyota ones were close, but not reliable enough to get a clean signal. This is why I use a spark plug wire now. If I were closer Id help you out. Hopefully someone close to you can help you out. Its always nice to have a second person.

I was getting 14.7psi out of the old one without hitting the surge wall. Im going to be a bit disappointed if I cannot reach the same boost levels. Im a little worried about having to re-tune the car with one of these turbos. On the dyno we did hit the surge wall shortly after 1bar. My goals with the stock turbo is 300hp. Thats pretty much the limit of my injectors and the turbo from what the dyno was telling us at the wheels. I am building the car to hit twice that at a later point in time. Id like to see around 600hp and similar torque numbers from the rear wheels. I should be able to support that with a second fuel pump, fuel surge tank, 700cc jecs injectors, the top mount CXRacing manifold, and a GTX3582R turbo around 22psi. Thats the goal at least. Ill find out whats stable on the dyno once Im there. Im about 2800 short of actually do that. At that point I will be installing a set of expensive 17X10 wheels and some BFG KD TA 315mm on the rear and 285mm on the front. Bling!

Thats funny... The Turbo in the first pic is MY turbo. Purchased it from Maurice out of NJ a few weeks back. Its sitting on my stock exhaust manifold right now. It indeed has a nylon style wheel. Maurice's car is a 1996 R33 S2 motor. My engine was a 1994 R33 S2 motor. The turbo I pulled off of my 94 motor looks like the S1 turbo in your picture. I am worried that the S2 turbo I have now that is from that picture will have longevity issues because of the nylon wheel. Im not reading good things about it. I was not reading what you are saying now. Its all hear-say though. I would love some real input if anyone knows what I have now. Im afraid SAU is probably the best source I have, but I have been combing over NICO, and Sylvias.net as well and we all know how knowledgeable they can be(enter sarcasm). BTW the turbo I picked up from Maurice in that picture does spin nicely and has very little shaft play. That nylon wheel is really light compared to the aluminum one I had. This turbo is in very good shape. I just need to install the new gasket kit 14401-21U25 BTW I should have my studs by Friday Exhaust stud and hardware from Oz http://www.kudosmotorsports.com

Thanks I did a google search on Toyota and Mazda studs. It seems the Mazda Miata guys are in the same boat as us somehow. I didnt fine the Mazda 3 studs. What year 3? The Mazda guys left this behind:M10x1.25 48mm also available on ebay through the same source 10 per unit Item number: 120746513753 Turns out that I did not have a sock turbo on my car. Aluminum compressor blade = modified turbo. So instead of trying to fit another stock turbo to match my old one, Im gonna just sell off all the stuff I have gathered up. Its all on CL. all the crap Ive collected. photobucket album That was a total bummer to find out. But if I can sell everything off for what I paid for it Ill be able to get the top mount kit I want.

01151-00471 Rb Exh. Man. Studs list $2.99 sell $1.70 DISCONTINUED! FU Nissan 08912-8401A Nut Hex list $0.95 sell $0.72 ACTUAL dealership price $2.13 as per My Nissan in Salinas Ca (who did drop the price to 1.81ea after I showed them my receipt from Bruce Titus Motor group dated from 09 at the old price) Other Option: ARP Exhaust stud kit: Ebay Item number: 150573996319 173.28+6 for shipping. I bought the studs in 09 from Nissan... I have 1 damaged stud out of 12. Local machine shops laugh at my 1.25 TP M10 stud. Grainger, Fastenal, and all other local places that might have such studs were of no help. I sucessfully burned a 1/4 tank of diesel driving around searching for ghosts. UBER LAMENESS!

seat belts 240sx fastback rear lap/shoulder belts and 90-96 Q45 front inner latch. Newer safer belts. My retractors are so bad no amount of lube will fix them. The inertia latch engages prematurely! So you have to slowly pull the belt from the rest positions. Its really annoying. I am unsure that in the case of an accident, whether I would have a broken collar bone or the seat belt would snap first. Ive seen the seat belts mentioned above installed in Lumberjacks car. Some day soon Ill be doing the same. GL!

Anyone interested in dumping the traditional turbo count down timers? Using a K type thermocouple(autometer kits use them with their pyro kits) and a Diesel specific cool down timer Im no longer on the count down system. The BD performance Cool Down Timer 2 can either be a counter timer OR if left as it comes out of the box it can utilize the thermocouple signal to **** the car off. BD Cool Down Timer 2 Im waiting on some schematics from BD at the moment to determine some of the other functions. Until then this is what I have come up with: BTW, Brake pedal wire is attached to the - side of the switch, and the one called keep alive should go to your ignition fuse. It basically goes to the same spot as the Ign On source.

Who is looking for a working shift boot? Check out the Z31 shift boots. You will need to come up with a tunnel mount for the boot itself, but it will fit the shifter unlike the stock S30 boot. I will be ordering one and giving it a try. I need to order an interior shift boot next. Ray

Well on the L series, I have run before with the MLS gasket it has been pretty critical that the surface be uber flat. HOWEVER, the MLS gaskets I have used on the L series are just that, multiple layers of steel. The Cometic gasket has a viton seal applied to some of its layers including the outermost layers which is why it looks black and not shiny metal. A completely uniform surface would be ideal, but small imperfections should be sealed by the viton coating. Larger imperfections would not be obviously, but you can probably gauge the difference. Some of the L series engines I have ran with MLS gaskets leak when cold and seal up as soon as its warmed up. The thinner gaskets tend to do this more because there is less crush I think to take up imperfections. There are lots of twin cam heads out there with similar V style cam setups. I would think a good and well rounded machine shop would not have an issue setting up to surface it. I really doubt there is anyone in my area that has a clue what my engine is. They are few and far between unlike the central valley, Silicon valley, and all the east/North bay area where they seem to be prevalent. I will likely contact th machine shops I know are familiar with the L-series heads. I figure if they can properly work on the L head then they are probably qualified to work on the rb head. Ill find out I guess.

It was a low mileage Turbo that a shop installed one of those KamaK rebuild kits into and I purchased the Nissan gasket kit mentioned above to finish it off. I did contact a Garrett distributor close to me and they quoted me $750 which isnt bad considering they just re-use the turbine and compressor housing and replace the center sections with new units, but that was out of my price range. I will be making some phone calls on the 5th to see if I can get my head into a local shop at a reasonable price. Id like to get it tanked, surfaced and have the valves cleaned up.

I checked you build thread. Looks like your on a good track for a solid build. Mind posting up some more pictures of that manifold installed? How was the fitment around the exhaust ports and turbo flange? Also the inside of the Turbo flange where all 6 collect together? Thanks for the feedback BTW BBB has nothing good to say about OBX. OBX is close enough for me to drive to, but they wont allow local pickup... Thats a company that solely survives off of http://www.made-in-china.com/ or http://www.alibaba.com/ and just re-badges everything.

I spoke directly to the owner of Upscale. They all come from China if they look exactly like his. They are ordered in mass and rebadged and sold. Like I said if you have fab skills this may be a good start on a working manifold.

Yeah, getting burned sucks. Ive been healing up nicely though. It happened back in March. There was a month or 2 of major healing. Im still doing the stretching and wearing compression garments at this point to keep scare damage from taking over. I also have to keep out of the sun. Yes KTM's block was a F54 Turbo bottom end. Its now a 9.3:1 compression ratio naturally aspirated engine running 114 through the triples in the picture above and I was working on a getting Nitrous for it, but thats on hold at the moment. The fuel tank is also giving me intermittent problems. Sometimes it will clog and sometimes it will work fine for a few days. The tank hasnt ever been so much trouble, though I was running the SU's at about 1psi of fuel pressure and these triples are at 3.5psi. So the tank has to come out and get boiled before I can get tune it anymore. So its sitting waiting for me to finish the other car. Im keeping my eyes open for another cylinder head for now, but I have a bunch of cam towers to play with as well. When I get some time Ill pull the cam out and torque everything back down and take my measurements. 260ZR Progress The L24 is sitting on the engine stand waiting for its day to come. I was able to procure an extra oil sending unit for the L24 when I replaced the leaking one on the 260ZR I bought 2.

Several months ago it looked like this This is from the past 2 weeks until this afternoon: Lots of carbon buildup. I am going to have a hell of a time trying to clean those exhaust valves. The have some tough buildup on them. The chambers dont look to bad, but definitely have carbon deposits as well. Now I know why I had to pull timing back on the dyno. Why am I constantly using cars in my garage as a shelf. Its like I dont know Im doing it until it looks like this: Oh well, Thats all for today. EDIT: Hey I just found my hat and sunglasses... and I didnt even have to go out to the garage and look.

I have an Update for Hybridz As some may have noticed my Turbo died. Its just under 100K miles. Thats not to bad for one of these units. I think they are rated at 60-80K miles. I bought the engine with 80K on it. So here is the list of parts I have been collecting over the past 2 years. This is my excuse to install them. Cometic MLS head gasket Cometic MLS exhaust gasket ARP Head Studs Supertech Valve Spring Seals Marshal non-oil filled fuel pressure gauge to replace the oil filled one that died from my underhood temps. BD Proformance Turbo Cool Down Timer Autometer 6144 Pyrometer kit Nissan GTR Thermocouple that needs tested, but might be the K sensor I need to install into the downpipe for secondary sampling Stock turbo in good shape low miles New HKS wastegate actuator Turbo rebuild kit by Kamak 14401-21U25 turbo gasket kit Circuit Sports steel braided turbo lines, less oil pressure line New XS Power divorced wastegate downpipe w/gaskets (gaskets are in okay shape, not perfect). 3" bellmouth style 6StarRacing stock mount header - IF AVAILABLE on order new oil pressure sender Waiting on Fidanza to return my adjustable cam gear. Im a few parts short at the moment. timing belt idler pulley thermostat 70* Ive just pulled the head off. That took about 3.5 hours. That Greddy intake is a PITA to get loose from the head, forget about pulling it out of the car. I left the intake laying in the engine bay and yanked the head off. Next I need to plan out a way to carefully remove the valves, retainers, and springs so I can do the valve stem seals. There is a significant amount of carbon buildup in the combustion chambers and on top of the pistons. What interested me most was the fact that the tops of the pistons were definitely the worst, but the exhaust side of the piston was pretty bad as well, while the intake side of the domes are fairly clean. My cylinder walls are in good shape so the bottom end will be staying together for now. I did spend about 3 hours yesterday polishing my valve covers. Basically I got bored. They look good, but I will likely get a bunch of these parts powder coated. I live 15min from the bay. My Greddy intake, valve covers, and a few other things are showing oxidation and its driving me nuts. Parts in Sapphire Blue 6 Injector caps Valve covers 3 piece timing cover Parts in Gun Metal Grey Intake manifold Turbo Charger turbine heat shield Thanks all for now. Will update as I get pictures of my progress.

Sorry Guys, I moved about a year ago and my new ISP(and pretty much ONLY ISP available where i live) will not allow me to run Dynamic DNS so my personal server that was hosting everything is no longer available to WWW. I have opted instead to use Photobucket now. I may have to check and see if I can edit the pictures in those old posts, but I think the edit button is locked. Will check. Anyway PhotoBucket Album 260ZR

Check the Pyro on this turbo. That is what Im thinking. I corresponded with a friend and IF I read his email correctly it sounded like drilling the center of the manifold right into the spliter/divider of the OE exhaust manifold flange would give me a good average reading and prevent direct exposure to exhaust pulses. I emailed him back to verify, but thought I would check here as well. Ray A.

http://www.4caroption.com/index.php Its also available through Upscaleautomotive Though I have checked and Upscale says they do not have in stock and the header is on backorder for the moment with an estimate of 4 weeks. I doubt the metal is thicker than 2.5mm tubing. I also doubt that either flange is straight either. I would expect it to have similar issues to the many others out there. I bet they are made in china ta-boot. Its an interesting option out there that someone with fab skills could probably remedy and have a nice stock manifold replacement. Ill definitely post back here if I get my hands on one. Question is, has anyone here ever bothered tossing $150 at one? Im sure most opt for the top mount setups or just stick with the stock cast manifold, Although I have seen some interesting after market cast manifolds like the HKS one on the skyline forums. Anyway, The real reason why I posted this was that the price wasnt inflated out of control like most things that say "RB", "R32", "R33", R34", or "Skyline". Hopefully this helps someone and like I said Ill post back if I do end up with one.

That is what I keep reading on the diesel forums. That makes total sense to me. I downloaded the autometer instructions and they have a 200* drop warning for that type of install. "For turbo engines, remove the exhaust manifold and install the probe 1-2 inches from the cylinder head. If the exhaust manifold can not be removed, install the probe 1-2 inches after the turbo exhaust outlet (Exhaust gas temps could drop over 200 ÌŠ when installing after the turbo). CLEAN ALL METAL FILINGS out of the exhaust manifold. Metal filings will damage the turbo impellor if they go through the turbo." AutoMeter 6144 Instruction Manual At this point Im thinking it would not be a half bad idea to drill the turbine housing where the exhaust enters with a 1/8" NPT and install the probe there. Installing the probe on a single cylinder or just 3 cylinders on the exhaust manifold in theory should give me the desired reading, but since Im using the pyro to control a turbo timing Im thinking it should be on the turbine housing itself. The next issue is whether I have to drill that 1/8" NPT hole in the manifold or the turbine housing it still has to be drilled and tapped into cast iron. I dont think I have the tools I need to do this. I have a 1/8" NPT tap, but I suspect the cast iron may kill that. At least Ive not had good luck in the past tapping cast iron stuff. Any suggestions or should I just swing down to a machine shop. Im not keen of the idea of using a stainless strap as outlined as option 2 in the Autometer instructions. Sounds like an exhaust leak waiting to happen. Ray

I did a search and came up with zilch. Nothing on Hybridz or Google. My pyro is on the way. Typically Im seeing the diesel guys install them just before the turbo on the header itself. This seems like he logical spot to put it. I havent seen the instructions yet, but most of the non-diesel people are installing them on the downpipe. When I did my search I specifically looked for RB25det pyro installs and came up with nothing. The reason I ask at all is that i have opted for a pyrometer based cool down timer rather than the Apexi piece of junk counting timer. Does my logic make sense that I should be installing the pyro in the header/exhaust manifold and not in the downpipe? Thanks for the input guys Ray

I came into possession of a brake booster and master cylinder from a 1992 BNR32 gtr front clip. That may not sound helpful, but it is. You see the booster and the MC are both available on USDM market vehicles. The MC is a common upgrade for the 240sx group. I think its a Z32 non-abs MC. The power booster is from a 240sx I believe as well. The Q45 booster might work. I had one around and it looked to be a slightly larger diameter, but it appeared to clear the clutch cylinder. For reference I here is my first thread when I started. This is not a bolt in though. I cut a piece of thick paper into a template. I placed the template over the bulk head and marked it out. The only stud I had a clearance issue with was the bottom right stud. It was very close to the pedal box wall. So I ground the pedal box enough to get the nut and washer on it. This particular MC has the proportioning valve and such built into it. Thats great because I was able to just pull out all the extra brake system crud in the engine bay. The front line is the rear brakes and the 2 rears are the left and right. Simply run the 3 lines out to the brake system and eliminate the old Pressure Regulator Valve and Pressure Differential Valve. There was another catch here. No one carries a 10mm line joint for a hydraulic system. Well at least not the common places like Summit or Jegs. I found CSC of Salinas could order them from BrakeQuip. I ordered 2 and used both to connect to the existing lines for the right and rear brakes located on the bulkhead in my 260Z where the PRV was. for brake parts reference: I connected the 'brake' light wire to the new master level sensor. I dont need a light to tell me when the system fails... My foot tells me just as fast. Now I will have an indicator of brake wear as the light comes on and level goes low. Im very satisfied with the results here as well. The pedal feedback is superior to the original and the assist is very adequate. Im definitely ready for rear disc brakes now. I just need to determine if there is a block in the back somewhere that is a metering valve for drums and if so eliminate it. Another upside to this is that the MC and booster are probably more readily available than the original 260z stuff. I havent looked up costs of the MC yet for a rebuilt version, but im sure its similar in costs to the 260Z unit, more available, and now there is less parts in my engine bay to break. Ive replaced both the PRV and PDV once or twice since 2002(but not with new parts). Hope this is somewhat helpful even though its not a full out writeup on the install. Its pretty straight forward to anyone that already knows how to adjust properly and hook up a power booster and MC.

Its going slow. I was involved in a serious home accident that landed me in the the ICU for 13 days. The medical bills are piling up and Im having issues with my other vehicles at the moment. I basically lit myself on fire and ended up with 2nd degree burns on something like %15-20 of my body(number changes depending on which hospital paper you look at). My chest, stomach, left side, arms, hands, and face were all burned and I narrowly escaped having to get skin graphs. I did buy KTM's short block last month. I slapped my stock E31 on it with the Mikuni's and the new header. Its running, but I suspect my has an issue as I have a loud ticking and my clearances for valve train are in spec. i think my line bore may have an issue at this point so Im dead in the water on that car and my Turbo failed on my 260Z the other week so that one is also dead in the water. Im currently sharing my wifes car until I get the Turbo sorted out and I can deal with the 240Z again after that. The stock L24 came out just in time as the tensioners came apart and let plastic fly everywhere.(yes I did go through the oil galleys on the cylinder head before I re-used it). I checked the deck, but forgot to double check line bore in the cam towers. If and when I recover financially I still plan on having the head professionally worked and building the bottom end to my wants. Its just all on hold until that time. KTM's L28 F54 turbo short block: with HKS .32mm stainless gasket(I think it has a viton coating on it), E31 cylinder head, "A" cam, Mikuni manifold, Solex/Mikuni 40mm side drafts, greddy/trust/nismo/etc header with 50mm twice pipes. The cars kinda of a mess under the hood right now. Need a new battery,radiator, etc. I am not running around with those velocity stacks either. I have a set of K&N filters on it until I can afford a nice air box. Most of the crank fire ignition is sitting on my workbench as well. Im short the ignition coils and megajolt.

You can buy them from Bad Dog as far as I know. That is where I purchased mine. bad dog parts I believe Bad Dog Z is also a member of this board. If you are looking to spend less and you have fab skills, you can try your local area for places that sell steel. Have them cut some stock for you and put it together yourself. Just depends on what your time is worth. Personally I do not have a plasma cutter, and the time to measure it all out. It took some time just to prep the car(74 hours between a Wed and Saturday mornings). It would have taken many more hours to fab the rails up as well. Trust me when I say Bad Dog's rails are well worth the time and costs if you are not equipped to build your own rails. You can always keep your eyes open for a set of un-used rails second hand. Ive seen those and the Zedd Finding Floor pans pop up once in a while. Good luck! Ray

A large rubber mallet(like something you would have seen in Looney Tunes Acme style), and some strong legs is all we had to straighten the passenger side out in mine. I braced myself against the top of the door threshold for short bursts while my buddy welded the pans down to get them perfect. A harbor freight dolly set also comes in handy to get any small bumps out one your done. Thanks guys, I dont really have much to offer Hybridz these days so its the least I can do until I can make a donation. Ray

Totally worth it in the end. The plastics in the rear use to squeak when I went over speed bumps from the flex(running pretty stiff coils on it) and now they dont make a noise. The car definitely feels more solid while driving down the freeway as well. Although I did install a set of nice seats in the car as well. The seats are not completely worn out like my old ones. I dont know what they are from. A friend happened to have a set he thought were from a Toyota, and they happened to fit the car very well. That could be affecting my perceived solidness as well. Ray