rayaapp2

Seems like all the other (Many other) L series engines Ive had ran 30psi 'ish at idle and tapped out around 65-70psi. I shimmed the current oil pump bypass valve for S&G mostly after I first assembled and noticed the tick. Obviously it didnt make a difference. Ive done a hot valve adjust. In fact Ive checked and rechecked the hot valve adjust and even compared it to a cold reading. Its dead nuts. Im usually the first guy to call the valve adjustment on these things. This is not an exhaust leak. The sound is coming from the center 4 cylinders top of the valve cover. I busted out a stethoscope on it. To give you an idea of the sound, it sounds like if I took all 8 center rocker adjustments and dropped them to full gap. The noise it makes when its wound up would make any Datsun folk cringe. The only other noise I have heard that is similar is a broken cam shaft, but thats not what has happened and Ive confirmed that. I wish I had another cylinder head laying around that was already setup just so I could slap it on there and see if the noise remains... lol

Ive run across some interesting oil issues. I finally got my hands on some nice tools so I can diagnose this. The car has been sitting for ages it seems. I first installed this motor early this year with a F54 L28et bottom end and a E31 cylinder head. Im using a steal HKS head gasket. So the cam is externally oiled by the spray bar. I had 3 bad spray bars that had been giving me issues from the get go and I have an issue with the electrical system that has left me without an accurate oil pressure gauge. I replaced my spray bar with a nice billet aluminum one that has been mentioned here on this forum. The spray bar is awesome! I idled the car with the valve cover off to try and find a ticking in my valve train and I can see the flow and its directed nicely at the lobs and rockers! So I installed a nice pressure test gauge at the oil sending unit galley yesterday to find 10psi of pressure at idle and 80psi at 4000rpm. So I believe the ticking is from a lack of oil even though I can see flow at the oil spray bar. I had the oil pump apart not long ago and checked it over. It has wear, but I didnt think it was enough to cause this issue. Apparently it is. Ive checked the rest of the system. I preformed a full tare down and physically checked all the oil passages in the block and head. They are all clear. I even double checked the cam tower oil galleys. So before I totally condemn this oil pump I thought I would check and see if anyone had any thoughts of other possible causes, because I cannot think of any. As soon as I turn the engine off from running the pressure drops to zero so there is no residue pressure, but I dont believe I should be seeing residue pressure in an oiling system. I almost certain there are no oil pressure leaks. The main reason for my concerns is that I had another oil pump on the car earlier this year with the same engine and it acted the same way(made the same tick). For reference I have replaced the following: Rockers: Used Lash pads: Used Valve springs: New Valves: refurbished cylinder head: refurbished Cam towers: Used Spray bar: New rocker Pivots: Used Cams: Several Used ones that I have checked the ticking gets louder in higher rpms and has been constant even with all the replacement parts including another oil pump. I have a fresh Bosch oil filter and oil in the engine as well and have had several other filters on the engine during the diagnosis.

There are a few from 96+ Nissans that bolt to your TB. For instance 1997 Pathfinder 3.3L or 1996 Q45 w/o TC. These are direct replacements. Verify OHM out as per FSM before you call it good. Ive seen a few that wont spec out and some of the latter Nissan stuff is adaptive learn so it doesnt matter much to them.

I made a post I believe not long ago regarding Fidanza Cam gears. The stock intake gear is adjustable! But most do not mess with it. While I was never able to dyno my car with the exhaust gear installed, I did try retarding it a few degrees with no noticeable affect, and I did not expect to 'feel' the difference. You should be able to see it on the dyno though as this is a fine tuning adjustment. After a few hours I pulled the gear back off and sent it back to Fidanza as I experienced an issue with the gear teeth meshing with the timing belt. Im pretty sure the belt was gonna loose in short order.

Indeed, I have several steering wheel pullers(The bar ones with the large bolt down the center) that I have bought over the years just for pulling L-series front pulleys. I fear the day that the domestic guys catch me using a "steering wheel" puller on my Datsun engine... you know that will go over well. I have never actually needed to use any of my pullers to remove a steering wheel. I suppose Id have to work on more domestics for that to happen. Oh and most of the cheaper puller sets will not have long enough bolts to use on the Datsun balancers. Hit the local hardware store for 1/4" 20 bolts.

You will find that those are made of SS, but they are VERY thin walled, and they are NOT round or even the same diameter from one end to the other. So when it comes to hacking and wacking on that Pheng, you will find it will not weld back together nicely. If you have a MIG with Stainless feed and gas shielding you will still need to massage the crap out of that pipe to get it to weld without blowing holes in it. I just hacked up a XS Sport down pipe for my car which is made in China and re-badged here just like the OBX, XS Sport, or enter brand here and I ran into this issue. I made it work, but it required time. Then there is the heating factor from the welding on the thin metal. I would not expect it to last very long. Mine is temporary as Im waiting for my gt35R to come in and I will be using nice SS exhaust for that. But you already mentioned it will be temporary. Probably not worth $120 or the hours and costs to hack it up and make it work. Better to spend that money on raw material and make it yourself from the get go, or buy the nicer expensive stuff already made to fit. GL

Using a 240Z slave on my RS5R30A in my 260Z. "Slaves is Slaves!" I used the early 240z because it has an adjustable rod linkage... Already knew most of the stuff hashed in this thread through many year of reading on this forum. Knew the boxes where the same. THE RB20 trans may not be available in your wrecking yard, but many of the engine importers have stacks of them like Venus for instance. And they are about the same price as a KA transmission from PNP if you have the ability to get one from a local importer. I havent gotten around to trying to mate the L block and the RB20 trans together, but I do not think the angle is so extreme that it will not work without an adapter plate or changing the bell housing. It looks like a few inches and the need to make a custom shifter lever(bend it) will do the trick. Far less work that swapping the bell housing mod. Ill post if and when I get around to trying this out. I just thought it was interesting that the bolt pattern was so close for the most part. I knew the RB was an evolved L series as well, but it was still kind of a surprise that it was so close. Ray

Its a 96 Q45 Throttle body(s2 style TPS) non-traction control version on its side for clearance to the radiator hose and fender well. I could have installed it 180 degrees from where its at but there was no clean way of installing the throttle cable so I hid it underneath and made a bracket to bolt to the stud and bolts for the intake manifold to the head. My setup will only work if you have a later style tach(a 3 wire setup) not the early one(4 wire). Here is a basic schematic. You will have to hunt down the wire colors and resistive values. I do not know the current going through the bulb I have or Id get a resistance value. Maybe one day Ill break out the meter on it. Ray

exactly, Yes this is from first hand experience with a SBC in a pre inspection Z. Im not positive on the non-opp thing, but I do not think that is suppose to work that way, at least its definitely not suppose to work that way the way the law is written. My guess is that someone did not follow the proper steps somewhere and that particular vehicle fell through the cracks. The Ref isnt the only one that will flag the VIN. The court system(where the ticket originated from) should be flagging it as well in the MVR. So when the ticket is processed it is entered into the system as well I believe but could be mistaken. Once the ticket is signed off, you show it to the judge and the registration is cleared from the courts end. Once the ticket is signed off you are responsible for the court/processing fees and will have to pay those, but the infraction fine is lifted if I remember correctly. It works like a fix it ticket at that point. Fix it and the fee is reduced, but not eliminated.

The problem you will find is that the court system will put a hold on your registration until they get notification in some way(ref signing it off). So DMV will put the registration on hold and your current registration will be invalid as well until you jump through the hoops. This will be whether or not you have paid the ticket off or not and Im about 90% sure that the non-opp option isnt a solution either. Explore Tony's options... There are legal loop holes. I just love how people blame California and say 'thats why I left". All you did by leaving was make it worse. We no longer have you to vote, and all the stupid laws here in Cali and a few other choice states get picked up by the other states that need money as well. Thanks being part of the problem(only half serious) and I hope your state adopts our stupid laws... lol(again only half serious). Personally if it were my car, Id get a L-series that was in good stock shape, fab up the mounts so the L series bolts up to the RB isolators and shove it back in for inspection... Id leave the EFI components on the car and disconnected. Swap in a proper fuel pump and go. After getting back from the ref, swap all the RB stuff back in and put the L series aside(just in case). If anyone you know has this same issue with a similar Z, rent the engine out... Makes the swap as easy as Honda swaps and so it could be done in a couple hours. If you ever rent it out or get another ticket, youve made up your costs. Ray

Man, That sucks. As Tony says a lawyer wont be any help. It has to pass the ref, and the ref wont let it fly without a USDM swap from any newer car or the original engine with all functioning smog equipment re-installed. Its been discussed here extensively actually. We(encompassing 1961-1975 vehicle owners) are exempt from Bi Annual testing for compliance, but not except from compliance itself. Very unfortunate! I feel for you man. This is the exact reason I do not ever clean my muffler and am tempted to never paint my car. I really doubt the officer was just being a '****'. You've been royally drop kicked in the balls as the laws are stacked against you. honestly IMO the easiest way to clear it all up will be to install a stock motor and deal with the hassle of all the welding and motor brackets. At least you will be able to re-install the RB again later and be ok again. As your ref confirmed these kinds of tickets are rare for older cars.

You wanna kill hondas... $350 PNP L28et, N/A ZX 5spd, used 450cc injectors, Z31 hot wire MAF & ECU, Z31 turbo turbine exhaust elbow, some sort of FPR thats adjustable(i used a 90's Z28 Camero FPR and modified it to fit the stock fuel rail and made it adjustable), 248lph fuel pump, at least 8mm feed and return lines, fuel sump pickup system of some sort, and a good radiator. Make the appropriate adjustments to the wastegate to prevent stalling. This will easily get you into the "250-300 hp" range. An intercooler will help somewhat(but I never ran one). Make sure you do not have any funny AFR's on the dyno and begin the Honda killing process. Civic's and CRX's with B16B swaps in stock 180hp trim and 9200 rpm redlines still will not be able to touch it. Why do you need a stroker motor to do that? If you want to beat absolutely stock (unswapped)Hondas you only need a 240Z with a mildly built L28. If you want the nostalgia of a Stroker thats different business. But as Tony pointed out its all about criteria.

A stock rb25det direct from japan, never run here in the states. Around 80K miles. Crank snout See how little drives the pump and the wear on the snout that is present

I run basic copper core NGK, 2 steps colder than stock(for 1 bar of boost), and .033" gap. Any smaller of a gap and I get a misfire, and any bigger than .037" and I get a misfire. I have been running the NGK and Autolite as long as they are the basic copper cores. I believe Champion is NGK re-badged so they can also be used as well if the local parts guy doesnt stock the basic NGK copper cores(as most do not these days). I have a shelf full of spark plugs just for the RB that I bought during my dyno runs. I believe I ran Autolite 3922 at .035" on the dyno with good results. Ray

Right! Its the same transmission they used(with exception of gear ratios) on SR, CA, KA, and other RWD late 80's through mid 90's engines. Nissan just change the bell housing to accommodate each application. Its gonna be some time before I pull my transmission from my 240Z. If anyone is really curious they are welcome to drag their L series transmission over here and see what the difference is. I have an extra block around that can be used as well. Ray

I picked this up this past weekend. Its a 5spd RB20det transmission. The backing plate is for the L series. The Starter, and both bottom bolts including the lower left dowel are correct. The top bolt holes and locating dowel are close but no cigar for a direct bolt up. With a simple drill press though they could be corrected(slotted or whatever) to accomedate the L series block. The only thing I do not know is angle of the dangle. Where will the shifter be in relation to the old L series shifter. Both engines lean the same direction towards the right side. Ive kinda suspected that the transmissions were close, but not that close. Its not that far of a leap to use the RB25det transmission for a high HP L series turbo build if the lean angle is correct enough. thought I would share my findings. Anyone know anything about a swap like this? Could be a nice alternative to swapping out the KA bell housings as the RB20 transmissions cost about the same and are also fairly abundant through engine importers like Venus Auto or what have you.

You should be able to squeeze about 15hp more out of it at STOCK boost level. almost completely stock and only a SAFC II(so no timing correction available) I pushed 263 and 233 lbs of torque at the wheels. My intercooler was slightly bigger(than stock), and I had about 1.5' more intercooler piping and a 3" exhaust. I did that on a DynoJet. Stock intake manifold and all. Not bad though. Ive seen a lot worse. I drove in with with 194hp on the first run in 3rd.

I would honestly believe it to be lower than 14mpg. If you had 3 bone stock in good condition 13B's tied together, Id guess 14mpg would be on the high side no averages taken. they are rated at a combined 17mpg 15city/21hwy in a late 80's rx7 That is if you run 3 EFI 13B setups and you dont convert them all to carbs. Throw MPG out the window on these. Still for the cost of 3 13B engines(ones that will not require major work) I think you could get your hands on a 20B 3 rotor, get slightly better mileage for any kind of actual street driving and reduce the complexity of the whole thing. Id be stoked to have a Cosmo engine in an early 240z. 3 rotors and a big turbo and your keeping the weight way down like this. Id venture a guess that the 20B weighs in close to the stock L24 maybe a little less. The 13B is very light. Without the exhaust manifold or alternator 1 strong guy can pick the 13B up by himself.

GTZ knows how to do this as he has done it in his 260Z. email him if you can as he doesnt visit here often. Ill text him to check this thread, but no guarantee he will.

The gasket is $3 the Thermostat is $11 Go to kragen/autozone and order a thermostat for a a z32 TT in the heat range you need(here on the coast i went with a 170*) The gasket is for a Z31 thermostat. Do a pressure check and insure that you do not have any leaks. Double check your radiator cap to be sure it holds pressure as well. Try and flush the coolant system out. Use what you have to. I like electrisol tablets and run the engine through several heat cycles. drain the coolant. Wash out what you can with a hose or whatever while you drain until you get clear water. Once its drained and clean replace the thermostat.

Its weakness and its strength is lack of torque. It also runs dirty. Torque is a major factor in MPG. Then add into the equation the port event(no valves) and what you will have to do to it to get it to make horsepower will be the opposite of what is needed for low end torque. Rotary engines are a different animal. The only thing in common with a conventional reciprocating Otto cycle engine is the 'Otto Cycle' itself(4 stroke). I do not grasp it fully either, but Ive been playing with them for several years. Just dont tell my family I touched anything Mazda(They WILL dis-own me). I had an 87 turbo II for a while that was Barbie pink and I nick named it Zoom Zoom Boom. So if one engine gets 20MPG. You still got to feed the other 2 with extra mass(and still short on torque) to turn to couple them together. EGR might be a significant help with MPG during cruise so the mixture can be leaned out.

BD Turbo Cool Down Timer 2 So heres the deal. In my car all the Ignition wires are tied to a a single 40amp relay that is activated by the old ignition wire that went to the coil. The power that feeds that relay(ecu side) is fused and wired directly to my alternator/battery bus(I used one from an Infiniti Q45). If you have relays down like the back of your hand then this should be enough description as to what Ive got installed. If you dont grasp this you should not proceed without help from someone that does. So I have 1 8 gauge wire coming from my power bus to the relay and another coming from my ECU harness where all the ignition wires splice into. For example the Blk/Red, Blk/Wht, and Wht/Blk wires that feed pin 45, ECCS relay, and Fuel pump Relay. So my ECU is stand alone like this and almost completely isolated from the poor 37 year old wiring system in the car. I only have to worry about that 1 ign wire. Anyway what this has done is made it really easy for me to install my turbo timer. We will call my battery side 8gauge wire Blue and my ECU side 8gauge wire Yellow for reference. Yellow is the wire we will be concerned with here. Yellow is the wire that you will be splicing into with the tan wire from the above diagram. Other than that the diagram should be self explanatory. You may not have to install the anti grind relay in the picture with this setup. The ignition should be off with the key and you will see all your gauges turn off and so should the power for the starter. I connected the relay up anyway, but could be a hassle until you get use to not being able to engage your starter until you depress your clutch pedal. BTW, installing a switch on the clutch pedal in an early Z isnt easy. Be warned. If you do not want to install the antigrind relay, dont install the brown wire or extra ground. That is it. This cool down timer will activate as low as 250*F and go as high as 590*F on my pyro(but is only rated for 550*). You will need a thermocouple in the least to install this. I used an autometer pyrometer kit. Because this unit is designed for diesels the temperature settings are low for manifold side sampling. I had to relocate the thermocouple to the downpipe. Once I did that I was not idling at 750*F but closer to 550-600* which is just in range. After a few months of messing around with this and dealing with tech support I feel Ive worked out the kinks. If you want cheaper BD cool down timer units, check out Ebay. The seller thedieselshop on ebay has $140 units for sale. BD had no problem taking care of a warranty issue when I burnt out the first unit I bought. Mind you that these units were built to be application specific to Dodge, Ford, and Chevy diesel trucks less than 20 years old. So the instructions were only so helpful.

BD Turbo Cool Down Timer 2 So heres the deal. In my car all the Ignition wires are tied to a a single 40amp relay that is activated by the old ignition wire that went to the coil. The power that feeds that relay(ecu side) is fused and wired directly to my alternator/battery bus(I used one from an Infiniti Q45). If you have relays down like the back of your hand then this should be enough description as to what Ive got installed. If you dont grasp this you should not proceed without help from someone that does. So I have 1 8 gauge wire coming from my power bus to the relay and another coming from my ECU harness where all the ignition wires splice into. For example the Blk/Red, Blk/Wht, and Wht/Blk wires that feed pin 45, ECCS relay, and Fuel pump Relay. So my ECU is stand alone like this and almost completely isolated from the poor 37 year old wiring system in the car. I only have to worry about that 1 ign wire. Anyway what this has done is made it really easy for me to install my turbo timer. We will call my battery side 8gauge wire Blue and my ECU side 8gauge wire Yellow for reference. Yellow is the wire we will be concerned with here. Yellow is the wire that you will be splicing into with the tan wire from the above diagram. Other than that the diagram should be self explanatory. You may not have to install the anti grind relay in the picture with this setup. The ignition should be off with the key and you will see all your gauges turn off and so should the power for the starter. I connected the relay up anyway, but could be a hassle until you get use to not being able to engage your starter until you depress your clutch pedal. BTW, installing a switch on the clutch pedal in an early Z isnt easy. Be warned. If you do not want to install the antigrind relay, dont install the brown wire or extra ground. That is it.

I received news from Rotary Performance(the American side distributor). My FC-Datalogit is in fact faulty. They tested it and came up with the same exact results. So here I am 9/27 still waiting for a response from FC-Datalogit. I sent them one more last email stating that I need repair immediately. My FC Box is still with Rotary Performance waiting for FC datalogit to contact us back. Rotary Performance is also trying to contact FC Datalogit. I will not buy a new FC Box. Its just not worth $300 plus shipping. I will wait until I can get my old unit repaired, and hope that they are not going to try and **** me on the bill for that. I cannot imagine the repair would be over $100 when APEXi charged me $100 to ship my unit to Japan and back and for some major board repair after it fried some of the diodes, resistors, and a chip onboard(not to mention the replacement commander port). In the case that this gets dragged out for several weeks I will likely buy the FC-HAKO, and if the FC Datalogit ever makes it back repaired just sell it. Ray

Flutter maybe? the HKS SSQV suffers from a bit of flutter. Even the 3rd gen ones. They havent quite sorted that out. The Synapse seems a little better, but still not worked out. The only other thing that comes to mind is decel injector shut off issues. If your injectors are not shutting off on decel at those times the turbo may be spooling up causing a delayed flutter of the BOV valve. Granted Im reaching here, but we dont have much to go on without tools. Other than that, have you messed with the adjustment screw on the SSQV? The one your not suppose to adjust. And Im sure you've triple checked your vacuum hose routing at this point, correct? Will check out your video when you get it up and see if there is anything more I can add.