rayaapp2

Actually some of those Synapse BOV demonstrations are slightly informative. Despite what all the comments say on youtube. Anyway, basic blow off valve theory applies here to either stock or Synchronic type. I would say your initial blast from the BOV is giving you the typical BOV sound, but is being followed by the BOV's still being open but without full pressure behind them. So what your hearing may just be the turbos being vented through the BOV system still.

That plug is for the starter solenoid on the RB starter. The Yellow wire should be the old start signal wire. Mis-understood the question at first. Ray A.

Well, that works, but it seems youve escaped WITHOUT ANYONE YELLING AT YOU. Glad you got it sorted out and so easily. Its nice when things just work together.

Emulate the AB valve on a stock Datsun. Dump enough air into the intake on decel so that it doesnt pull fuel from the carbs. Ultra high vacuum situation = decel Setup a large vacuum switch valve to dump filtered air directly into the intake manifold(bypass the carbs). This will only work if you have a central balance tube or individual ports on each runner. Personally I used a stock AB valve on my triple Mikuni manifold through a central plenum to each runner. The brake booster was run off the same plenum. You have to be able to completely lean out the mixture so that it does not draw in any more fuel. It will help a lot with your fuel economy if you spend a lot of time in gear on decel. If you do not decel in gear not so much. Tony's Dash Pot also works(and was implemented on the stock engine as well!) A combo of both would work best! GL!

Wrecking yard down the street from me has a 88 200sx. I checked and it has the R200 in it. Its either a 3.90 or 4.11. The guy at the counter was asking $200 for it. I walked away. There was also a VG30/auto 200sx sitting out at PNP down the way. Im pretty sure thats also a 4.11. Id be willing to help you out with this if your interested. I can at least get you the wrecking yard phone number for the non-pnp. Let me know if I can help. Ray

Be positive that you are not running out of fuel. Bring a Phillips Screw driver with you. Next time it bogs out, shut it off, pull out of gear, and get off the road. Pull the tops of both float bowls off and ensure that your fuel level in both of them is good and not dry! I would also be sure that your nozzle jet(the part that the needle slides into) does not have foreign debris/old fuel gunk lodged into the orifice. Another thing I would check though unlikely is the slide piston for movement. It should have resistance with the dampener, but once you unscrew that actuate the slide up and down and check for a sticky point. Sounds to me like your experiencing fuel starvation to one carb. Sounds like its running on only 3 cylinders? Most Z guys that have almost run out of gas know that lawn mower sound well... better be at the gas station corner or your S.O.L.

Oh no, I was not stating that early rotary engines need overhauled at 60K, I was stating that that is the recommended service overhaul interval on the early ones... Though I cannot remember where I picked that bit of info up at, at this point. I seem to remember it was from a legit source and it was directed at first gen rx-7 12A. You could always ask Lumberjack aka Josh in Fremont about CNC. Im sure if you had the program ready that would seriously cut down on expenses. If you made them a deal and it worked out his workplace is always open to picking up things like this. They are seriously looking at doing a small project for me. The RB cylinder head oil drain with an AN fitting that isnt available anywhere. As soon as I can get a cylinder head up to them they are looking at going into production on them. Anyway, it doesnt hurt to ask. If you get a chance check out patent 1,224,642 I have the original copies of everything for this patent. Patent was applied for in 1914 and approved 5/1917. My paperwork is dated 1913. Someday I will assemble this family heirloom. But seriously harebrained ideas...Im all in.

With all the effort, why not just cnc a billet crank and stack the rotors in one setup. Use all stock parts minus the crank. The 20B Cosmo engine does that with 3 rotors. Provided your willing to put the effort into the redesign and have a friend with the tool access? 4 rotor motors have been discussed on other forums, and Ive actually seen a few in the works and one completed on one of the rx7 FD/FC forums. Personally I hate the chrome sealing surfaces. Though I can offer no improvements for that design other than a higher nickel content or something. Most folks prefer to focus on the seal issues though. I actually have blueprints for an American version of the rotary engine(predating the Wankle design by several decades) that Ive been dying to build, but dont have access to materials or tools to do so at this time. Rotary performance mods are expensive though. Like a real bridge port... to have those done correctly it will cost $$$. Its much like grinding a cam. Anyway a large turbo instead of extra 6 rotors would be nice as well. 4 rotor engines Here's you 6 rotors Mazda had a hard enough time keeping 2 rotors together, but I suspect that was partially due to emissions mandates forced upon them. If you run them dirty as they like to be ran they might hold up a bit better. My speculation of course, but backed by the 60K mile full overhaul recommended intervals on most of the early Rotary engines. But boy do I love the idea of being able to stack extra cylinders on for added displacement if 2 werent enough... Its not like you can cast a couple of extra cylinders onto your existing inline and make it a V12... Well at least most folks wouldnt dream of that. Its just to bad the stock eccentric shafts arent already setup to be stacked with coupling system to stack almost as many as you wanted within reason in a single case. Ray A.

Well my FC Box is off to the USA distributor of FC Datalogit for basic diagnosis. Hopefully they can find the issue. IF your wondering who the distributor is for FC Datalogit here in the states its Rotary Performance of Texas. They made the effort to call me after seeing my posts on the yahoo groups forum. I spoke with a few fellows about the twin turbo setup above. Now that I have a better understanding of how it works, Ive decided against it. I will eventually be going with a large single. The smallest one I would run is a GT35R exhaust A/R .82. Im also considering GT40/GT42 hybrids with smaller A/R's like .82, .63, or .48. My personal choice if money was no option would be the Garrett GTX3582R with a .63 or .82 A/R turbine possibly with a T4 flange. Pics from yesterday... Next point of interest: Cooling: My water pump is on its way out. It wines at idle. This just started happening. I found a source for cheap N1 water pumps and picked up a few. I need to go pick up a new belt and Im considering picking up an N1 oil pump while Im in there, but thats gonna be a different update. I replaced the thermostat when I replaced the turbo a few months back. I just purchased a Champion Cooling 16" electric fan. Its rated at 15.5amps 2500CFM. I dont really believe it actually hits that flow rating, but it seem to do the job just fine. I also installed an Imperial Electronics fan controller. Its not the best out there, but I think I can make it do the job. I need to comb through the wrecking yards for a dropping resistor. I plan on making the fan a 2spd by installing a second 40amp Bosch relay and the resistor. I havent fully worked out the details yet. For now it comes on full speed ahead. The first thing I noticed is that the water pump stopped wining. That heavy fan and fan clutch must have been adding extra stress to the pump. Its a lot happier for the time being. Wheels: Well the Gold Enkie 92's came back off, got painted and sold em... Old Black Enkie 92's got a set a of Kumho 225/50R15 mounted. Thats whats currently on the car. I spent the money from the old gold Enkies on a pair of Rota hyperblack RBR 17x8.5" rims. Now all I need is 2 more and a set of 225/45R17 Kuhmos and Ill be set.... Whats that total wish list amount up to now? LOL

I might point out that as long as you buy a working/new unit this product works fantastic. Some folks have driver issues with the serial to USB adapters, but if you have an old lap top with a serial connection your golden. Just seriously consider the fact that if your stuck in a pinch as I am with my DD down and I NEED to retune, then support can be VERY slow. Ive been talking with a lot a people that have had VERY similar experiences with support. From what I can tell FC Datalogit will eventually get around to helping you. How many months can you wait? Most people that have these units are not using them for a DD. And that is partially why the support takes so long. Its a small company that makes these. But even guys on the track may need support the week before race day, so I cannot fathom the lengthy wait times experienced. Anyway, I will definitely post back with the progress as I mentioned.

I just got a phone call from the USA Distributor that happened to see my posts on the Yahoo Groups Forum. He has offered to take a look at it. He cannot do repairs, but he is willing to help diagnose what he can. That makes me feel a lot better. Thank You Evan for the offer. The Distributor has some extra tricks up his sleeve for diagnosis. They are located in Texas. USA FC Datalogit Distributor I will let you guys know how this turns out.

I would tend to concur. However I cannot dismiss his stated quote. There are reasons why the electrical systems were designed as they were. If you deleted a relay or something you should really think about re-installing it as it was in the donor car. If for nothing else that to know your not gonna burn up your ECU if you end up with an over-current situation... ie when you are getting or giving a jump start. You would not be happy with a fried ECU. Trust me thats not fun and the stock wire harness has its own inherit flaws that you do not need to pile more issues on. The BEST example being the fuel pump circuit and inductive fly back issues with the relay. I found that out the hard way. In other words you should only be altering the wiring into a non-stock configuration IF you are absolutely positive that your making an improvement. I would highly recommend you consult an electrical engineer as well. If you know who is who on the forum here you will know who to ask. There are more than a few. S1 diagram. I was able to extrapolate what I needed from this diagram for my S2 setup.

Relays? There is a keep alive wire that needs battery 12V. What data is it not saving? The tune? I am fairly satisfied with those coils.

Anyone that has this unit knows that the yahoo groups is the support forum associated with this box. But what happens when you have a real issue that requires debugging or physical repair? I sent multiple emails(around 6 in total now) out to FC Datalogit 8/21. Its 9/12 and other than one response asking me to make sure my pins hadnt broken off the connector and another stating they would be on Holiday overseas I have not had any real support. Ive lodged complaints on the yahoo groups forum asking for any help. Ive sent emails to FC datalogits tech and sales emails(they do not offer a phone number). I drive my car on the daily. A few months back I replaced my turbo and its clear that the new turbo requires a retune at idle 16:1 and 11.1 at WOT. Did I mention my car is a daily driver? So I can continue to drive my car into the ground or get a rental car while I wait... **** Options if you ask me when considering this was a $300 unit. Im currently researching the FC-HAKO and seriously considering AEM(if I can find the funding). I will post back if I ever hear anything for those people at FC Datalogit, but right now Im really frustrated. 3 USB converter cables, multiple lap top installs(including wiping and installing other OS's), and trying all different arrays of port and baud rate options Im stuck with the same error and what I can only assume is an issue with the FC Datalogit box. My PFC works flawlessly from what I can tell. The lap tops are working flawlessly, and my cables/cable drivers seems to be working as designed so all thats left is the fc box and no support to confirm the problem... much less get a repair going. So MY advice, THINK LONG AND HARD about spending $300USD on this device. stick with a hand controller, buy something else cheaper to do the same thing like FC HAKO or anything where you can expect to not have support for months on end. BTW I dont seem to be the first to get this treatment. I wish I could find someone to shove a size 13 boot into! BTW: I understand this may be bad form, but at least others will be warned... esp those stateside that cannot easily drive over to a manufacture and deal with a person. And YES I will post back if I ever get a proper response. I have requested that they make the effort to phone me and give me over the phone support since email isnt their strongest point of communication. That was last week.

Ditto... Only I didnt know the resistance rating I needed so I used a light bulb I had around that happened to work. And I have a later style tach with only 3 wires and works as the Negative pickup style. It sounds like you have the inductive style tach from an early(early 73 and back) car? Here is the wiring for an early 240Z with that style tach if I am correct.

One problem at a time. I have not seen the FSM as far as the MAF goes. 1200 RPM idle is a bit high. I believe you are looking for a 'stable(as in within a 2 or 3 rpm)' 750-850 rpm with all accessories off. The PFC has some cool idle stabilizing features for electrical system loading. If the FSM tells you to check the MAF at 1200 RPM Im not going to contest that, but as far as an idle goes thats high. Again 1 problem at a time starting with the basics. Fix the spark issue first. If you can visably see the sparking from the coil packs to anything you have an issue to address! As I hinted above under load the problem is amplified. As you compress air/fuel resistance between the plug gap rises. Under load the resistance spikes. This is why you see a lot of folks with this issue hit a wall at a certain rpm under load. Its just becomes easier for the spark to get to ground through the coil insulation rather than over the plug gap. Anyway, you can try the liquid electrical tape or epoxy, but I would not expect that to fix it. A lot a digging and you will find that NAPA can order the OE coils from a place in the US, but they are around 119 ea.. You will have to look around for aftermarket options. Do some serious research. Not all the aftermarket coils are better than the stock ones. Once you have a solid rpm, set your idle up. You may have to adjust your idle air bypass screw as well. Follow the FSM for that setting and if your using the PFC you should be able to ignore the part where it asks you to set the ECU into base mode. Double check your TPS at idle so it doesnt hunt(use the FSM for the readings which I believe are pin 2&3 .4ohms idle to 5ohms at WOT). Once that is all setup check your MAF as per the FSM and diag from there.

It seems that this pops up once every 6 months. A word of caution: DO NOT FIRE THE COILS WITHOUT A SUFFICIENT GROUND! Ignition coil damage can result!!! COP coils have thinner coils and more of them esp in a turbo car. These thin coils of wire can easily burn open when the ground has no where to go! POOF smoke does not go back in.

All 6 of my S2 coil packs were arcing with only 82K miles on them. I tried the liquid tape solution, and it helped moderately, but did not solve the problem. I bought the Super Spark coils from Raw Brokerage. I have 35K miles on those now and Im still happy with those. Do not bother with Platinum of Iridium plugs. Its either the weak coils or possibly the composition of our fuel(which affects resistance across the gap) that causes the misfire... Ad a small amount of surface area Try plain (no vspark or anything special) copper core plugs of the same heat range and gap of between .037-.041"and youll be fine. If you turn up the boost then worry about the heat range. Easiest way to check you coils I found was this. warm your engine up to operating temp and get the heat soak on. Have a spray bottle ready with plain water. I found it best to have the coil cover off and to do this at night after a hot run down the freeway. Pull into a place where you can turn your light source off, but not yet! Leave the engine running. Pop your hood. Listen for any sounds coming from the coils any time you hear a misfire. I could hear the coil arc over to the coil rail! After you take the time to listen for that misfire get your spray bottle ready. Turn your any lights off. VERY lightly Mist the coils. If you spray heavy amounts of water you will CAUSE your own misfire. You will have to look closely around the coils to see any arcs as they will be faint. Since the coils are not under load you have to force them to arc or simulate a load by creating an easier path to ground. The arcing tends to happen through almost invisible cracks in the coil housings. You will be able to verify by looking for the heat scoring around where the arcs are coming out of once you look at it again in the light. Those arcing coil packs can be addressed by trying those fixes you probably read about. After several used sets of 6... I had 3 known good coils... So I bought a set of after market ones. You are also using fuel that is probably a bit lower grade than what the engine was designed to run? I notice a slight mis sometimes when I fill up with cheaper mixes of premium(valero vs chevron). Hope that helps

Im half temped to build something like this: For the RB. I like the quick spool of the little T28 S2 Turbo, but I really want to go to a top mount GTX35R or GT42R Garrett to make some real power. My goals remain the same. Im looking to make 550hp or LESS. Ive heard rumors of a few guys doing this kind of compounded turbo setup with very good results. Im half tempted to start a thread about it, but I think I will wait until I have a better understanding of the dynamics. I can easily do the math to figure out how to plot my engine onto a turbo map, but there is a dynamic here I do not yet know how to figure out with 2 different sizes. Then there is the setup itself. It appears that some of these setups like in the picture above the larger turbo compressor blows through the small turbo with a bigger turbo. Im open to anyones thoughts on this kind of setup. Mainly Im interested in the math to figure this one out. I only have a loose concept for mapping engines out and plotting them on turbo maps. I ignorant when it comes to determining theoretical spool up. Id love to talk to anyone that has an idea about this sort of thing. Thanks Ray

Tripping... IN STOCK FORMATION: Installed, running, dyno tuned at 263hp I spent ~$4000(but I am also the culprit that bought the last north american dealership rear sump pan for $134 so)... doing the work myself add a bunch of labor say $3000 (in just labor which seems reasonable). Add on a Greddy intake, Greddy timing belt, FMIC with custom piping and nice T clamps, A radiator that can cool extra power(that 200sx option works fine for stock, but think nice aluminum for anything more), aftermarket EFI for dial in tuning, and anything else over stock that you may want included. I spent another ~$5800 on those such items. My total into the car since I bought it back in 2002 is $17K up until a month ago, but that includes 2 previous engine swaps(not rb), all the oil changes, tires and other wearables I ever put into the car since that time. Yes the wife is ok with that as long as she gets to drive a nice car and I take care of that too. Id say I have around $10000 as a rough estimate in my engine swap minus labor(cause I dont charge myself). Ive recently added a few other parts that I havent added into my build book like a 3" bellmouth downpipe, cheap header, a replacement turbocharger, braided turbo lines, valve job, and cometic head gasket So pick your mods wisely cause they all cost $$$ that will add to your install costs. Your build is looking good so far btw!

all right Jake! glad to see that going. so now that you have a running rb z and an amount of fuel to burn from what I've derived from your videos we Will be seeing you this Sunday at the summit of mt. diablo for the bbq up here in central Cali? come on, road trip! ill meet you in Salinas ca on your way up the 101! btw get some walk around videos showing the car and swap off.

LOL! Im sure all the stock optical units fail in the same way though(I cant remember if the bottom one is optical or hall effect now that I post this). If its heat that helps kill them off, then on the balancer or next to the #1 exhaust port were probably not great places for them. For some reason most folks have issues with the 81 unit. Ive seen the 82/83 CAS fail though. My 81 wasnt intermittent. It had good base/idle timing. The moment you accelerated the RPMs it would kinda work, but bounce around. If you had a crappy timing light you would think you were getting cross talk. It took me a very long time to figure it out. I could not figure out the random missing with the tools and experience I had at that time. Anyway, 300hp is not to hard. Like I said it was really all in the timing and fueling. I started with a F54 non turbo block and bolted the 81 turbo top end to it with all the turbo stuff. I dropped the compression with a 2mm HKS head gasket. The first FelPro gasket I used blew out between #3 and #4 under 13-14psi of boost... before I was even running full boost. So I would recommend running a MLS head gasket. Once I had that in there things were golden and i was able to raise the boost pressure with the compression drop. For any forced induction or high compression build I use MLS now.

The one that is now pretty infamous for failing in that exact way. The 81 Crank mounted CAS. It just sits there and cooks until it fails. If I had been a bit smarter back then I would have used the 82-83 CAS and addressed some of the heat issues. This one is no internet myth. There is actually a lot of information on those problems with the 81 CAS. For some reason the later CAS in the dizzy housings are either less susceptible to the the heat soak or the dizzy housing itself does not transfer as much heat into the components because of its location or whatever. I was barely getting the timing out of that CAS that I needed anyway. I needed a fully programmable timing curve. This happened back in early 2006 I believe.

I nailed the 322hp mark in my L28et in my 260Z. It blew 2 years later due to a CAS failure(crank trigger heat soak). I lost the ring lands and cracked the piston skirts on #6. It had a highly modified ECCS system on it along with a custom fuel system capable of supporting that power. My base timing was good, but as soon as I started messing with the throttle the timing would jump all over the place. If that hadnt happened Id probably still be running around with that setup and not the RB. I ran US 91 octane in it. Fueling it and messing with the timing curve was all I really had to do. It was all on a stock Turbo... and I dare say it: NO INTERCOOLER!(stock Jpipe, stock TB and stock intake). I did have a custom 2.75" diameter 2.5' long exhaust dump from the turbo. I probably could have installed a nice intercooler and modified a few things and made slightly more but the car felt ridiculously fast for a DD street car. When you can drop 5th gear from a stand still and proceed to do a burnout your tires are to thin and the car becomes a little unwieldy(195/60R14).

This is why you need to hand crank the engine though several full cycles and recheck that all 3 marks line up. Most engines with timing belts require a hand turning to verify the timing is correct on the marks after you install the belt. Some engines are more prone to this issue than other. Subaru boxer engines come to mind... fun belts on those bugers. The SRT4 is a pain to get in there and needs to be checked as well. The RB is a mild belt install, but you still need to verify that the belt tension was correct and the marks were lined up without slack when installed by re-aligning the marks after rotating it.