rayaapp2

Still no word from FC Datalogit It looks like I need to address the oil pan clearance with the car so low. I scrapped the oil pan drain bolt and scuffed the pan somewhere in the past week. I think Im going to remove the pan and take it and an L series pan to a friend with a tig and see how hard it would be to build a custom high capacity pan. 8 quarts aught to be good. I definately want to shorten the height of the pan by .5-1" maybe closer to 2 inhces. With more capacity in a shallower pan Im hoping I will not run into any oiling issues. I might tackle some baffle plates while Im in there with trap doors. We will see how hard it will be. I dont want to risk punching a hole in that pan. I was unlucky yesterday as someone knocked a large 5" in diameter rock right in my path on a 2 lane road with oncoming traffic at 50 mph. That might have done it, but I heard and felt it roll around and knock stuff up a bit as I drove over it as I clenched the steering wheel and winced. River rock vs lowered car... car barely won but took a serious jostling. My belly pan came out unscathed, but the exhaust has 2 small dings in it for sure. EDIT 9/24 a full weeks since my first inquiry FC Datalogit has finally responded. I hope their next correspondance does not take another week.

Im getting a little irritated with FC Datalogit. I emailed their tech twice since the 18th, and Ive posted about my issue on the YahooGroups FC Datalogit posts. I have had ZERO response from either. Whats the point in having a tech email that they dont respond to in any kind of reasonable time line. I realize they probably dont work weekends, but they have had 3 FULL business days to make some kind of response up for me. Its not like they have to answer phone calls(they do not list a phone number). Im not about to buy another one with this kind of support. Ill go AEM first. Heres hoping they get around to me before to long!

Updated Tach Wiring: So last time I posted I was using the GM ignitor unit to modify the tach signal for use with a stock tach. I have a simpler way now. I found this by accident so I cannot give anyone solid techno-garbin behind this one. What I did was connect the ECU tach output signal to the tach pickup wire for my 260Z(the single wire tach not the 2 wire induction type). At that same splice point I connected a 3rd wire and ran it over to a resistor. I used a load device(aka a light bulb). For those of you that want to find a resistor the light bulb came from a early 90-96 Q45 door light(bottom of the inside of the doors that light when door opens). You can look that bulb up and get the resistance for it and just use a regular resistor I would think. On the other side of the light bulb(resistor/load) I ran the wire to an ignition 12V source. This has been how I have been running the tach for the better part of 2 years. The bulb is mounted under the dash up against the passenger kick panel so its not an annoyance at night.

So I went out today to re-program my PFC through my FC datalogit and hit another road block. The FC datalogit wont turn on. The LED will not power up and my netbook will not connect. So after some pretty extensive testing Im still no closer to finding out what has happened. I didnt touch anything over there. I even did a pin check and called apexi to see if they could provide basic testing. They didnt offer much more than plug a commander in and see if it works. Anyone near Monterey Ca got a commander I can use? OR even another datalogit I can try? Im 90% sure the datalogit is the issue. The PFC works perfectly by itself or even with the datalogit plugged in. The LED is intermittent. Sometimes it lights up, but most of the time it does not. I posted on the yahoo groups with no response. I have also emailed FC datalogit tech and Im waiting for a response. I did a full pinout yesterday on the ecu live and disconnected for functionality. The ECU has good inputs and outputs. Thats why Im fairly sure the issue lies with the datalogit box.

Nissan asks that you disconnect the throttle position switch. The S2 only has a throttle position sensor. No need to unplug something that isnt there. You can double check this with the FSM

I realize there are few on here running a pyro, but I wanted to see if anyone else had wired up a thermocouple to there exhaust manifold and taken readings. At full operating temp with heat soak in effect Im reading around 610* at the turbine inlet. It doesnt matter much but Im getting around 400-500* on full warm up no heat soak. The heat climbs to 800-900* when Im in the throttle. Im not nailing four digits yet, but I havent done any major testing up there. Im more concerned about driving than watching the pyro. Ill connect it to the datalogit unit and see what it records eventually. The good news is that Im staying away from 1300* so far. Do those sound like good readings for the turbo inlet. I was hoping for closer to 450-550* at idle on heat soak for my cool down unit as its range basically ends at 590*. That means the cool down unit isnt hitting its criteria for shutdown at the moment, but I may be able to rectify that with some electronic engineering. So if any of you guys that actually have a pyro installed please post your data for comparison. Even if its installed in the down pipe Id like to know, but please specify. EDIT: Today I hit the freeway. On the freeway running normal freeway speeds under cruise Im seeing 1400* at the turbine inlet. When I punch it, it doesnt get much over 1400* though. My gauge is good for 1800* according to autometer. Does that sound right to anyone? This is at the turbine inlet on the exhaust manifold. I was expecting to see some high numbers, but I thought under 1300 was acceptable. thanks

Well the wheels I was trying to get fell through. I will be trying to get something similar though. I spent the day sectioning my front struts. Thats not easy. They are done though. BZ3099 Tokico Illuminas. I had to drill out the isolator hole for the shock to fit. Luckily I am using the coil overs so all I had to do was let coilover down and stick a wrench up on the shock tube(which is slotted for a 5/8" wrench) and tighten down the lock nut. Doing it by hand with a wrench is the preferred method if you dont want to smoke the seal. Tomorrow Im going to jump on the rears, which Im expecting to be harder because of the drum brakes(front calipers can be removed from the strut without a brake bleed). Im installing a set of BZ3015 in the rear. Would you believe thats with 2" of frame rail to ground clearance and room on the coil overs to lay frame... I think its gonna go up 1.5" in the rear and .5" in the front. Bumps are the enemy. Customized downpipe:

Sounds like your on the right track for an S2. You shouldnt need the consult to base mode the S2, its done as you describe. I can only guess from here on. What spark plugs and gap size are you running? Stock coils? Does it run smooth at 15*BTDC, or does it have any bucking light or strong? Hopefully you have dumped the platinum plugs, though most of the time those sort of issues show up at a higher rpm.

Where are you pulling timing from? Are you getting calculated base timing through the data port or taking an induction pickup reading? How are you setting timing? Are you putting the ECU into base mode before making your adjustments? Knowing what year ECU you have will determine what steps are needed to adjust timing. An S1 and S2 have 2 different ways of adjusting timing. What steps have you taken to insure accurate timing with the timing belt,CAS, and ignition advance?

Z31 SS shift knob in these pictures. Was just trying it out. I like the Z32 shifter knob for its weight. The Z31 shift knob is really light. Easy install. Slide boot over the shifter. Tip tie the end to the shifter lever. Lay console over the top of the shifter area. Pull the shift boot up into place around the console(of course old one has to be already removed). Place old boot clips over the new boot. Re-install the console. As you can see it almost matches my seats. I chose the BRIDE material because it was a close match to my seats. My console is also pretty trashed. Its cracked where the choke would be. Overall Im very satisfied with it. I plan on matching the arm rest and e-brake lever boot in the future. I know someone else already ordered one. So hopefully he also reports back soon with his install.

Gearing up for some bigger tires. -Fronts: 17x9.5" (0 offset / 5.25" backspace 3.5" lip) with 275/40/ZR17 - BFGoodrich g-force T/A KD (extreme performance tires) (11" of total track width each) -Rears: 17x10.5" (-12 offset / 5.27" backspace 4.5" lip) with 315/35/ZR17 - BFGoodrich g-force T/A KD (extreme performance tires) (12.5" of total track width each) Traction control. I will need fender flares and extended ARP wheel studs. Another issue arises as well. Steering may be impossible at driveway speeds. Im aware of scrub radius issues here as well. I will likely address the steering issues with this: Subaru Forester Rack install Parts look like: 1998-2004 Subaru Forester Rack N Pinion matching outer tie rod ends. 1984-1986 Toyota Celica and others through 1988 Inner tie rod ends Forester bellow boots rb power steering pump and reservoir Some custom lines Forester power steering cooler unit part of the forester steering shaft with the U-joint to mate to the stock Z shaft Fender flares are on the list. Im up in the air about the Zforce wide ZG flares and the 280y flares. I like the 280y kit the best, but there is a lot of work involved to install those. Either way the car will have a really aggressive look and solve my traction issues. Back to brakes. After contacting several rotor manufactures Im looking at the same rotors Arizona Zcar uses. Wilwood Disc Brake Rotors 160-2894 Right side example. $42 ea The Wilwood 4 piston calipers run $150 ea It sounds like the Wilwoods are a better way to go. I cannot come up with an extra $800 for Arizona zcars setup. Its just not going to happen anytime soon. I believe I can have the adapter plate made to mount these rotors to the 280z hubs I have. It wont be that expensive. It wont be anodized out of the box, but it will work. The brake caliper adapters are not that hard to make either. Its nice to have access to a machine shop though. It appears my only hang ups at the moment other than funds to get it going are the little ends. An adapter is needed for the brake lines from what I can tell. I will also need to figure out what pads to run with this setup and get them priced. For the rear brakes Im working on installing the 280zx turbo rear calipers still. Again Im not using the standard master cylinder with all the associated proportioning crap. Im running a newer style MC so I will have to figure out brake biasing for myself after my initial install if needed. All dreams at the moment but so was the RB powered 260Z for many years. Cosmo Racing Coil overs dropped all the way down and Xenon air damn installed. I will be installing the air dam with a pan like Yorgee's Air Damn Modification stupid license plate laws ruining a perfectly sexy front end. EDIT: Yes my house is backed up to Jurassic Park with all the Velociraptors, Tyrannosaurus Rex's, and what not... I think a Compy keeps getting into my chicken coop and eating my eggs since I find the shells cracked open and spread out, outside the chicken cage.

Ive got a set of Mikuni Solex 40pph carbs. They are all jetted for a L24. No manifold, manifold linkages, or air filters though. Im looking for offers. shoot me a PM if your interested. I pulled them off in favor of larger carbs for my L28

Whats up with the power steering reservoir? Have you converted to power rack n pinion steering? Ive seen a few on here talk about it, but none totally installed yet. Im considering much wider front tires/wheels and would like to take that route myself. If you have installed power assist would you divulge the details?

Moss Landing PNP had 2 1988 SS models out there today. They were complete minus a pair of Recaros. Both rear ends were intact until I got there. I pulled both of them. Called my buddy up and had him come down from Tracy to come get the other one. I made out good today. My Panda Express lunch fortune cookie said "fortune will shine on you today". It was sure right. I kept the 117K mile unit in this picture and my buddy got the 222K mile one. So for a moment I had 3 of what 1000 something ever imported.

Exhaust Re-Design I know now why no one spends the money on any of the downpipes out there and why everyone has so many issues with them. Poor quality, out of round(and out of size), thin stainless, warped flanges, and requires grinding to make fit even in a stock application. I used the XS Sport Down pipe to make my new exhaust system. I made it work: All tack welded up ready for the tig to finish it up. Shift boot is ordered btw. Should have it according to them in a few days. EDIT: 7/29/11 YAY! It runs again! sounds nice and healthy. Only took me 4 weeks. Will have to wait for a test drive. Waiting for new shocks to arrive and may be installing my rear disc brake conversion in the next week. I checked and all 4 shocks are dead when I installed the Cosmo coil overs. GR2 shocks are killin me. Ive killed 2 sets and they are not even worth the warranty. Tokico Illuminas will be going in there.

As for the ISIS Short Shifter here is my input: Do not expect a short throw shifter when you order the ISIS unit. Despite its title, its not but 1/8" shorter at top and has a slightly lower thread collar for the shifter ball. So my measurements will be the same for the shift boot either way. The upside to the ISIS shifter is that its weighted as the top part of the lever is threaded on vs the stock shifter being vulcanized together with a rubber bushing. The rubber bushing is probably there to prevent me from bending a shift fork, but I like the weight of this one for sure. So if you have a stock shifter, Nismo(which the ISIS is based on), or the ISIS itself the shift boot should be about the same. If anyone could verify the shift boot measurements that would be very helpful. Ray

Im finally getting around to dealing with my shift boot situation. The inner round transmission shift lever boot, The transmission tunnel rubber shift lever boot, and the center console shift lever boot. I took the old shifter lever boot that goes on the transmission tunnel and cut the whole center out. I then cut a plate of aluminum out to match the old steel clamp. I drilled the 4 screw holes out and screwed it down. I marked and removed the plate for a hole just slightly larger in diameter than the round hole the shift lever transmission boot is and check for clearance of the shift lever in all gears. At least now its a small hole I have to cover. I bought a transmission tunnel boot from a early 240sx. I drilled out 4 holes and offset the pattern so that the boot lines up well with the shift lever. The boot is not straight up and down. Since the shift lever sits forward and to the right the boot had to be slide a little forward and the part that normally is the back or short side is facing the right side of the car. At least this is how it is for now. ISIS Short Throw Shifter Do not expect a short throw shifter when you order the ISIS unit. Despite its title, its not but 1/8" shorter at top and has a slightly lower thread collar for the shifter ball. So my measurements will be the same for the shift boot either way. The upside to the ISIS shifter is that its weighted as the top part of the lever is threaded on vs the stock shifter being vulcanized together with a rubber bushing. The rubber bushing is probably there to prevent me from bending a shift fork, but I live the weight of this one for sure. Seat Belts I also followed Lumberjacks thread on the 240sx rear seat belts. I have one side installed now. The guy I bought them from on Zilvia sent me a bum right belt. Its permanently locked because the plastic is deteriorated so bad. So Im waiting on a response on that from the seller. I replaced the stock 260Z belts because the inertia locks activate any time you try and pull the seat belt out to latch them. Ive lubed them up and cleaned them out an everything. I figured the old belts needed to be replaced with a simpler design with newer materials anyway. The side I did install seems to work beautifully. I will also get pictures up of this later. Im still working with the plastic cover for the retractor up top. COSMO RACING EVO2 COIL OVERS I also installed my COSMO RACING EVO2 coil overs in the front this afternoon. Didnt get to the rears yet. Over all they work. However I have more complaints than anyone should have about a kit designed specifically for a vehicle. I swear COSMO took some measurements and went digging in their parts bin for parts that might work on a Z before they packaged them up and sold them. The coil over housing itself did not clear the insert shock cap. I had to grind the insert cap down. The coil over housing slide over the strut tubes well. The base of the coil over sits just above the original spring perch. I suspect when I get the car on the ground it will sit slightly lower than before, but I was really hoping for more. I guess its time to section the struts. Next bump in the road was the fastening hardware. Allen studs. The kit comes with an assortment of allen studs and o-rings by the way for multiple applications... Anyway the allen studs screw into the coil over housing piece at the top and at the bottom. Because the coil over housing actually fits well all the studs will be to long. I found this out once I installed the shortest ones and started to set the front down and chipped up the spring as the studs rubbed them. Final complaint is the the front bearing cap. There is a bearing up near the isolator at the top of the strut so the struts can spin with the wheels. The bearings will fit if you place the cone side down on the conical hat of the coil overs. One side of the bearing if they are like mine will have a slight cone shape that fits the hat. The complaint is that there is no retainer for the bearing. The bearing is an open type bearing not a sealed type and the fact that its really just kind of floating around up there, makes me nervous. I would not be surprised if the bearing moves and damages the cap. It would have been nice if these came with a weld on collar and the top of the coil over housing was not sealed to ride on the top of the insert cap. When I get around to buying new shocks I will likely cut the caps off of these and weld a collar on to the strut tube. I bought coil overs to be fully adjustable. I got partial adjustably and my ride height is limited. There is no way you are going to slam your Z with these. It will be low, but not uber low. Its definitely low enough though that speed bumps and such will be an inconvenience and your exhaust needs to be tucked well. I just fixed my 3" exhaust and its completely tucked under the frame rails except at the rear end where it needs to drop down to clear the R200 diffy. Your choice COSMO or Ground Control. If I had the money I would have done the latter of those.

From what I have read the 240sx rear calipers have a smaller bore piston vs the 280zx version 2 calipers. Im not worried about the bias. Im trying to match the brake system up as best I can. Ideally I would be running the 300zx z32 or R33 rear calipers. See what Ive done hereNew MC replaced Pressure Regulator Valve and Pressure Differential Valve The only catch I saw with the 280zx rear calipers is that despite the larger piston diameter it runs the same small pad as the 200sx. I was going to try and make up for that with different compound pads. Currently Im running the solid toyotas up front with ceramic pads and stuck with stock drums in the rear. The bias is ridiculous. I can burn through a set of front pads in no time and the rear shoes have lasted for 25K miles...(3 sets of fronts later trying different compounds each time). The new MC seems to have helped a bit. I did not get to drive around long before my turbo went out with the new MC. I liked what I felt though. Besides, I have the ZX calipers, flat maxima bracket, and a set of rotors. Although IF someone can defiantly state that the 240sx brakes are better than the zx Id definitely consider them. Whats the piston bore size?

So Ive read through many posts here and elsewhere. Ive seen reference to Z32 30mm(rotor thickness) calipers for the front of early Z. I found pictures even. Z32 Caliper options: Non-Turbo calipers, rotors: Up to 7/90 – Aluminum, 26mm rotors 8/90 to 3/92 - Aluminum, 30mm rotors 4/92 to 1996 - Cast Iron, 30mm rotors Turbo calipers, rotors: Up to 6/92 - Aluminum, 30mm rotors 7/92 to 1996 - Cast Iron, 30mm rotors Personally Im after a Cast Iron 30mm set. Thicker Rotor for better cooling in theory. There is 1 documented Z32 swap on a Z. 260/280z front hubs milled. Rotor from Z33 also machined to fit. Just a big headache at every brake change I think. Not to mention extra time time down waiting for the modifications to be done if you dont have your own personal machine shop. I think at that point it would be easier and cheaper to go with the aftermarket kits out there. I dont have a grand to upgrade my brakes. Thats not gonna happen. Ill spend my money on rebuilt calipers, custom adapter brackets, and fresh rotors. What brackets are these and what are the rotor dimensions(diameter and offset)? z32 calipers, Z33 rotors This is my goal on the front From Rocky Auto's website but not a single specification. Seems to be based out of Japan. I want to be able to bolt everything up with the only custom part being the adapter bracket for the caliper. I have a feeling though that rotor may be from a S15 as Ive seen some reference to S15 4 lug rotors for these swaps over seas, but no pictures of S15's with 4 lug rims. I also need to dig around and see what the 4lug Ford Rotors measure out to be. Looks like Im looking for an 11" rotor. Where can I find adapter brackets for something like this? Im about to just take the whole assembly over to a friend with a CNC and say make this work. Anyone know of any other Z32 swaps and or details? For the rears Id like all the custom work to go into the bracket as well. I have a set of 200sx and 280zxt rear calipers. Im going to see how far off the offset is here in a few days with what I have. MM and MSA seem like the only places to get adapter plates. The thing that kills me though is that NO ONE is making an offset Maxima adapter plate like part # 44155-04S10 . Where can one buy an adapter bracket for the 280zx turbo rear calipers? I do not want to run any of the SX calipers with what I am doing. I do have the flat Maxima rear brake bracket. If I cannot find a custom one, Ill modify my flat bracket like in this post. Maxima Flat brackets But it will mean running the smaller piston calipers Where can I buy adapters, and what rotor options are available that DO NOT require machine work to fit. Ill take measurements for adapters if anyone has them. I would want to know what rotor matched the adapter as well.

The cool thing about modern AFR Sensors and O2 sensors are they have really good heaters built into them. PROVIDED you do not have exhaust leaks between the cylinder head ports and the sensor location you can almost install it at the muffler tip. You will need some amount of piping between the end of the exhaust tip and the sensor to prevent dilution. Say 14" or so. Other than that point the sensor end straight down for the BEST results and not in a long radius of a turn. It may be mounted in the side of the exhaust pipe with good results as well just as mentioned above. You do not have to worry about placing the sensor as close to the heat source as possible like the older non-heated O2 sensors from the 70s- early heated sensors on the newer widebands and O2 sensors. Some of the newer 02 sensors(NOT AFR Lambda widebands) still do not do well farther away from the heat even with a built in heater. Most new stuff though is held to a mandate that it must reach operating temp within 30seconds or less so the heater is critical for keeping the sensor above 500 degrees(I believe if memory serves me). Anyone that has taken exhaust gas temp readings can tell you at idle in the mornings you will not see 500* unless you are on top of the exhaust port itself. The heat is gone long before any sensor. The readings I got from my personal vehicle were in the range of 250* F and 425* F moments after cold start and a heat soak run on the freeway taken at idle down respectively and from inside the exhaust stream 4" off the port.

Okay, Im trying to piece together a brake system for this car. Im not willing to spend thousands of dollars to upgrade these things. I know this is a place one should spend their money well on, but Im not full of money and I believe I can come up with a reasonable solution for less than some of the kits out there. Im ready for more braking power. I believe I need it. Master Cylinder: Im looking at a B50 or B57 MC to replace my B44 unit which works VERY well with stock rear drums and S12 non-vented Toyota calipers. Front Brakes: Nissan Z32 Cast Iron Calipers for 30mm thick rotor Rotors? nothing yet. Im looking for a 11" DIA, 30mm thickness, for 4 bolt wheel pattern, and will bolt up to the stock hub without interference. Adapters custom to match a rotor Rear Brakes: Later 280zx rear calipers later 280zx rotors Maxima flat FWD bracket with machining done as described here:REAR DISC CONVERSION Despite the MASSIVE amount of info on this forum and a few other places, I still have no solid answers. The fronts are pretty straight forward at this point. The only thing that has me stumped is in this picture that did not come with a good description where I found it. What brackets are these? z32 calipers, Z33 rotors This is my goal on the front From Rocky Auto For the rears Id like all the custom work to go into the bracket. There were a lot of swaps out there where people were turning the outer diameters or mounting surfaces on the rotors. Im sorry, but every time you have to buy a rotor you will be required to preform those mods again. Thats not acceptable in my book. I want to easily find my parts and be ready to go if I have to... I cant imagine anyone track racing would run modified rotors like that unless they had backups with them. In any case its not for me. The adapter bracket should do just that, adapt. I found that above link for the rear disc conversion to be helpful. I have a set of 200sx and 280zxt rear calipers. Im going to see how far off the offset is here in a few days with what I have. MM and MSA seem like the only places to get adapter plates. The thing that kills me though is that NO ONE is making an offset Maxima adapter plate like part # 44155-04S10 .

The trans tunnel should not affect this shift lever boot. Check out the 'Color Code Pg' link I have a above. When you click on their sample colors they pop up with pictures of different shift boots. Click on the thread colors as well for more options. They can do all sorts of stuff. Personally Im up in the air about the BRIDE black material and the Black Faux-Alcantara and either with Medium Blue stitching. I like both. My seats are cloth from an unknown car. They are a charcoal grey color. I dont think the admins here would look upon me well if I accepted your offer of ordering two. That may conflict with their group buy or offering items for sale without actually having the items. Dont want to anger the hybridz gods. If you simply contact RedLineProducts via the email address above and mention my handle here they will certainly make you one as well for $49. Im paying $100 for the R&D on their end for the first shift lever boot. Im not sure they'd cut me any more of a deal for a second one than you could get by simply emailing them yourself. I am using the shift knob from a Z32 300zx. Its weighted and fits nicely all around. The stock skyline shift knob is much like the 240sx shifter knobs. My stock skyline knob was very worn out so i dug around and a friend offered me his 300zx shift knob. Another thing to keep in mind is that I do know know if the shift boot for the 70 & 71 models will be the same as what we are ordering here. The 72-78 consoles accept the same boots. I have what is left of a 72 boot in my 74 260Z now. Please post your measurements if you have a chance. Ill submit them. thanks

Please post your measurements as follows for your RB installed Z. Their instructions: " we'd need you to measure: - distance from front corners of shifter plate to where you want the top of the shift boot to be located - likewise distance from rear corners of shifter plate to where you want the top of the shift boot to be located It needs to be measured across the longest travel distance. So if you have a typical setup of 1,3,5 on the front and 2,4,R on the back, it would be 2 for front-right corner, R for front-left, 5 for rear-left and 1 for rear-right corners, respectively. We'll also need the circumference of the top opening and information on how that should be finished (should it grab a trim piece or a bottom part of the shift knob by itself, or does the trim piece or shift knob provide a stock mounting mechanism that we can use?) A good tip would be some indication on how the stock shift boot is mounted on top, the way you have it in your car at present." This is what I sent them for a STOCK shift lever with Rick Wong mounts and my own trans mount. Shift lever diameter is 14mm or 9/16" It will need a thin metal collar. The thinner the better cause some of us are using Z32 90-96 300zx shift knobs and others are using stock Skyline shift knobs which go over the top of the boot. The inside of the shift knob is approx 20mm ID at the boot height. I measured from the corner top of the console to the OD of the shift knob for all measurements below From the right front corner to the Reverse position I measure 6" From the left front corner to the 2nd gear position I measure 4-7/8" From the left rear corner to the 5th gear position I measure 7-1/8" From the right rear corner to the 1st gear position I measure 6-5/8" I will be installing the ISIS shortly and getting measurements for that as well and posting them up. Please take your own measurements and post them up here and I will get them that information so they can get a good idea of what we are all running. specify RB20 or RB25 transmissions and mounting setups you used so we have a reference.

When you turn your key to the on position does your Fuel pump cycle on for a few moments to prime the system and them off again? Do you hear the Fuel Pump relay and ECU power relay click when the key is switched on? There is a diagram of the power and grounds with pinouts on the ECU in the FSM.

Ill try to do this without breaking any rules here. I have no affiliation with this company other than Im buying a product from them. And this is not a group buy. I am only posting this to help those that have been in the same predicament as I searching for a descent custom shift boot for my car. The company is called http://redlinegoods.com/ I found them on Zilvia.net Im in the process of getting them measurements for the stock shifter and for the ISIS short throw shifter for the FS530A, but it should also fit the FS5W71 transmission behind an RB. They offer a lot of variety aesthetically. They have a descent reputation on Zilvia. These are custom shifter boots for RB Z cars out there. They said they will run ~$49 shipped for any style you want! There are a few options like stripes or piping that can up the cost. So you will need to contact them with your details and find out for sure. If 5 more people buy these they will put them into production and be offered with their regular lineup. If interested you will need to contact them at info@redlinegoods.com. The advantage of these guys is the plethora of options all included for the same price. check them out Color Chart Pg BTW IF you are interested in one of these mention my handle name here as they do not as of yet have a part number and Im paying to have them R&D one for my car so they will know its the same. Tell them you would like the same one as rayaapp2.ETA on Custom shift boots "We can ship everything in 2-3 business days maximum, regardless of how complex this is. Your job is not, we do this stuff all the time actually." I will keep this updated and eventually post pictures of what I install. Im asking them to re-cover my arm rest as well after I prep it. Its the cheap vinyl covered ones that were an aftermarket install on the 260z and 280z.