rayaapp2

Its not clogged, but you get fuel just before that point. All I can think of is bad fuel pressure/volume or maladjusted float. Use the a fore mentioned sources to reset the float levels and check your pressure to see if its adequate to supply fuel to the bowl.

I have PM'd several people about my comments. Half the people that responded said they viewed my comments as negative and half didnt have a problem with what I said. Id like to say that I in no way intended my original comments to be viewed in a negative fashion, though I can see that they could be viewed that way now. I was joking around about a comment that was made that has been covered before and that I found entertaining. When the conversation became serious so did I with legitimate answers and no sarcasm. I think Bloz Up caught on to that and has been picking our brains ever since to satisfy his thoughts. With that said I hope you guys can look past your bruised feelings as that was never my intention. My intention was to spark your thought process. I am not the end all be all Z knowledge guy. Hardly. Do I know anything? Maybe, maybe not. I find that I am wrong to about things still as well. So dont take my word for it, find out for yourself. To be quite honest I dont think I approached this in a way that Id be unwilling to have anyone else approach one of my topics. In fact I could only hope someone would be so kind as to do me that favor! I use the search feature for hours sometimes... Nothing wrong with "Extensive searching". In fact I dont limit myself to Hybridz.org when searching. I use search engines elsewhere as well. I also have books to reference. Your not searching extensively enough if you dont exhaust all options including asking your mechanic buddies, dig through as many books as you can muster, and search the entire internet. In this industry the old guys will tell you, If you dont know something STOP! Ask! Ask your fellow tech, make a phone call, or read! Ca BAR states that you may use any Industry Accepted literature for repairs. So IF you still have issues with what I stated and think I was out to hurt everyone's feelings let me actually warrant your emotions. I have NEVER had such problems with anyone face to face. Its pretty clear to those that have met me, and there are a good number of them on this board, that I am not a mean person and I strive to help others when I can. If you read into what I say as negative and your feelings are hurt still click on the image above, fill this report out, and send it to the Mods. (Yes, this means I AM BEING MEAN NOW!! See the difference?)

You will need to read up on Fuel Trim in depth, an abbreviated definition is not what your looking for. Fuel Trim "Strategies STFT" may yield better results. Ive never searched google for such things though. I had to take several courses in prep for my Ca Smog License that came with books that yielded the information. FromFord Fuel Injection O2 info "A/F Biasing" "OVERVIEW The goals of the closed loop strategy are: - add the capability of introducing A/F ratio biasing, - maximize the feedback limit cycle frequency for all bias values, and - maintain a simple calibration procedure to describe the closed loop limit cycle. The fuel flow is driven in a limit cycle manner about stoichiometry. Using the EGO (Exhaust Gas Oxygen) sensor, the computer increases or decreases the injector pulsewidths in a controlled manner. If the EGO reads rich, the pulsewidths will be decreased (made leaner) at a calculated rate. If the EGO reads lean, the pulsewidths will be increased (made richer) at a calculated rate. When an EGO switch occurs, an instantaneous change (or "jumpback") is made in the A/F ratio back towards stoichiometry. The jump is made relative to the A/F ratio (LAMBSE) value at the EGO switch. The limit cycle can be biased to operate on the average richer or leaner of stoichiometry. An example of the closed loop limit cycle is shown on the next page. LIMIT CYCLE DESCRIPTION {Text diagram here of the closed-loop limit cycle and relevant HEGO signal} ***** NOTE ***** The direction of the bias is controlled by the sign of the bias value. If the bias term is negative, a rich bias is indicated. If the sign of the bias term is positive, a lean bias is indicated." This is all incorporated under fuel trim information usually because it is micro managed by the ecu under STFT(short term fuel trim) and it is called A/F Biasing. Though I cannot say how many sources on the internet will provide you with more of an answer than "the O2 simply swings in voltage". Stay away from old GM fuel trim, unless your willing to take the time to learn their number system OR you understand Hexadecimal(though they were the Domestic forerunner). Manufactures all had their own types of fuel trim systems before OBDII Compliance. LTFT should also be included for a full picture of the situation though. Its much more complicated than just ECU adding and subtracting fuel to hold stioch. Besides the fact that the ECU doesnt hold it at stioch at all. If you dont find a ton of Fuel trim stategy your looking in the wrong places. You may have to dig through manufacture literature for update courses to find the info your searching for. There is enough info on Fuel trim to teach a 6 hour day X 5 day course on it at least.

black floater - "float" small tank - "float bowl" seemed a bit dry - = No bueno Check out the FSM "Factory Service Manual". Its available online for free if you look and covers your carbs in detail! You could also pay for it... its worth having either way if this is a car you plan on fixing yourself and owning for an extended period of time. The float needle is not the only thing between the line in and the bowl. There is a filter in the banjo bolt as well that clogs. See the FSM or google "Datsun SU float bowl" and you will easily find the common method for setting the float levels. Float adjustment doesnt usually go bad all of a sudden BTW. More than likely you have a clog. The needle orifice can clog as well if the filter on the banjo is currently missing. If you have one apart do the other at the same time. Clean, adjust, and re-assemble.

Might I suggest a little more reading on the subject. "Around" 14.7 is more accurate. To understand this more it would help if you read up on "Fuel Trim". That is a whole other subject though. Fuel trim will give you some of the answers you are searching for. There is a reason O2 sensors swing in voltage readings and it has nothing to do with the sensor. The sensor is simply a galvanic battery. Checking up on the fuel trim will give you more insight into this. The subject of fuel trim will eventually lead back to cat support. Modern and even not so modern ECU's are totally capable of keeping a rock solid 14.7 AFR at all times. Ask yourself why they dont. This will also fill in the operational and effective questions as well. Once you grasp fuel trim you can put the 2 together. Dont let anyone convince you of anything over the internet. I and others are simply trying to give you the tools to figure it out on your own. Your totally welcome to try this on your own and possibly prove us wrong. There are a few guys out there that have tried. Some have failed, some have had success, and some dont know why either way. Treat this like a high school experiment and collect the data. I posted the info so that you and others would have an idea of the obstacles not to say it can never be done. Before doing something like this I feel that one should have an idea of how and why something works... a good idea. When re-engineering something of this caliber that is always a good idea. And when you fail find out why and try again until you have an answer. Isnt that how we learn? Mixing and matching parts that weren't designed to work together isnt much of a logical way of approaching the situation. Learning about the parts and re-designing them to function together is a much more logical way to approach this, at least I think so. And if it doesnt work find out why and make corrections. Another thing that should be read up on in depth is the word 'catalyst'. Understand what a catalyst is and how it works in the world of chemistry(not just cars). Then apply it to the cat we are talking about. Understand how a catalyst works, and how it fails. This should also bring insight on this topic.

Should work fine by my thinking. A few of us had a conversation about larger intake manifolds and how a "step" actually creates an anti-reversion effect. I say give it a try as well and see what kind of differences you note in drivability. Ray

I say that though in reference to my NA L24. I made good power with a stock L28et. Well over 200. Cost me under $1000 to build it. I left everything other than the head gasket and cam alone on the inside. Trying to squeeze more power from the NA is a different story when your trying to achieve close to 100% VE... Over 100% being the goal(turbo is cheating in the realm of VE! )

I will probably get flamed by the nay-sayers, but $5K(in USD) will only get me the long block. Valve cover to oil pan no bolt-ons like headers, exhaust, intake, etc. Ive laid it out in detail in my L24 build thread and I've got similar goals in mind(mind that there isnt much on machine costs detailed there yet). If $5k NZD gets you everything it sounds like your in a better position depending on exchange rate(which Im sure is in NZr's favor at this point). My Mikuni Solex triple carbs ran me $400USD and the Mikuni manifold ran me another $250USD. Old Nismo style knockoff header $100USD. Both the headers and the carbs required more money to refresh them. The headers are getting blasted and coated. The intake manifold is new, but is getting ported to suite the cylinder head. The carbs all had to be rebuilt and I expect to have to tune them so add in the costs of tuning. I added a spd transmission$50USD and 240mm clutch/flywheel $125 (parts to support my torque goals). I also purchased a slightly used(2000 miles) set of MSA twice pipes. They were only $50USD. Im still working on the fuel system design, but expect another $350USD at least to bring the fuel system up to my person standards. Im still working on building my own air plenum/filter box. I listed my ignition system plans in my build thread. There is a lot of support that is needed even after the engine is assembled that should be included in the costs as NZeder has. That is to say nothing of certifications that I dont know about being that Im in the US. L20eT sounds like a good idea for the $$$. I recently discovered that there are a a bunch of L20x models out there. Light Duty, Heavy Duty, Turbo, etc You guys would probably be more qualified to determine what there is and what you should use for your build. I only state this in case you have not already realized there were different versions available so you can look it up.

It must be equipped with a cat when you bring the car in for its first smog test. If its tuned right and has a cat it should pass. They arent going to be looking at injector part numbers. They WILL be looking for aftermarket parts, so if you have an aftermarket fuel rail or other parts it may tip them off that they should be looking for non-stock parts. There is a label under the hood that says exactly what the car should be equipped with. For your swap it should be addressed as if it was still in the ZX donor. So what ever the ZX emission label says is what you should have. If its all there and in working order they wont fail it for visual. You just have to worry about the emissions part of the test. The cat and egr will be listed on that tag under the hood. I think it should be affixed to the hood itself. You will be sent for a ASM test at a local test shop and then more than likely sent to a ref station where it will be inspected. If everything is in place and working they will give you a "BAR" sticker to place in the door jamb and your good to go get your car tested. While your at the testing station the first time have them run it anyway as a pre-test to see if the emissions are within range as well to give you an idea if it will pass when they put it back up there. Most of the time a pretest is free, but some shops charge for it. They probably wont do a pretest at a "Test Only" center. You will need to take it to a gold sheild or test and repair facility for this. If you are automatically sent to a "Test Only" you can go to a gold sheild facility anyway. They are fairly laxed about car entering the state from other states and will not automatically ding you for no cat as you have not been driving around the state all year without a cat. They wont just nail you with a fine for being non-compliant. They will still make you become compliant though. When you do be sure that you purchase a "OBDII Certified" compliant cat specifically for Ca. It will have a serial number laser etched into it. Keep the receipt for the install and have it done at a legitimate shop and they wont hassle you. When you run your pretest make sure you dont see "gross polluter" on it. If you do get the car tuned. If you get tested and the outcome is "gross polluter" you will be sent back annually for inspections for the following 3 or 5 years and further is the "gross polluter" status continues instead o bi-annually.

The difference is the thought process behind the reasoning. Its not the displacement that makes the difference. And if you realize that your much better off in the engine build process than thinking its the 200cc that makes the gain. NZeder, my apologies if I come off as a bit rough. There was no hint though of any other thought process behind your statement. It seems its very common to take that exact line of thought and run down the field with it without ever touching on the real reasoning why the 200cc helps. One could certainly start with an L20A and give it an 86mm bore and come out with similar results without ever being anything more than a 2.4L(Though there are some getting those power goals from the 2L itself). Its all about "Volumetric Efficiency". I hadnt realized you knew any of this by your comment and it was not really helpful to the thread starter. I am guilty of not explaining myself at times as well. Before any over-bore is explored check to be sure your block is good for it with your build goals in mind. My personal finds is that my P30 block is good up to about 86mm for my power goals as an example so Im leaving room with an 85.5mm bore.

seriously 200cc's, you think its the whopping 200 cubic centimeters of displacement that will help!? Its 200cc's! The benefit here is not in the displacement of 200cc's, but rather BORE diameter and valve shrouding/size. Im not denying 200cc will make a wee bit more power, Im just stating that should not be the significant reason that should guide your decision process. 200cc's is bonus points if its how you deal with the cylinder head/combustion chamber flow characteristics. And then onto the flat top comment... I refer you to your own quote "Most of this stuff has been covered over and over again on this site and others - read read read and then read some more" If youd followed this advice you would not have made such a comment. You might have actually put your hands on a set of flat tops to discover there hidden attributes that no round top will get you without significant modification. This has actually been discussed in more recent topics. Perpetuating the "Boat Anchor" myth once again. I would encourage talking with a real engine builder that is intimate with the L-series engines(one thats been building them for years with good results). It would greatly benefit all. I have had no problems speaking with any of the engine builders over the phone here in the states. All the big names seem more than willing to divulge information one would think was secret.

Specifically the EGR dilutes the mixture with hot inert gas. Absolutely To add to this: When speaking of EGR we are not speaking of a performance device or a performance robbing device. This is a device that is in function when the operator is not putting full demand on the engine. During events like cruise when the engine is only using a fraction of its output it can be advantageous to lean the mixture out to get better fuel economy. Leaning the mixture out at this point leads to higher combustion chamber temperatures and the formation of NOx in the least and can have other serious physical effects in and around the combustion chamber. This is where EGR is advantageous for all the reasons listed above. There is a reason why EGR was introduced during the gas crunch times...

Seems to me that you already have what you need from an L28. Crank and Rods are the same as the L28 in the L26. The big difference in is the Bore diameter. You could get very close to 2.8L with that block setup. Your in the same situation. Might as well use what you have to build what you want. The is no sense in wasting extra money on things you already have that will fit your goals. The L6 and the RB have two different characteristics as Im sure your aware. Figure out which one you want to go with. I have 2 cars and 1 of each. I love both of them for different reasons. Most of the head costs I have been quoted for seem to be for repairs. The street porting is actually very affordable. Finding out your guides, seats, surfaces, etc are all in need of repair is what seems to cost money. Though if your going with the bigger valves while your replacing the seats you might as well put big enough seats in to accommodate the larger valve. The key is showing up with the head you want that has the stuff you want and being in reasonably good shape so all that has to be done is a good chamber port workover.

Read, ask why a lot, hopefully understand a little: My L24 Build My engine is 2.7L and Im shooting for 200ft/lbs at the wheels. Have a read through it and see what you come away with.

Correction: Early vs Late 260Z production is not "Early" and "Late" Ive owned a 1/74 with big bumpers/catalyst equipped car from the factory and I still have a 9/74 small bumper/no catalyst car. Easy way to tell it was factory equipped is to look at the floor boards for he bulge and 280Z style seat mounting. If that were the case then the big bumpers were early and the small bumpers were late... Nissan pumped the 260Z out like crazy. If I remember correctly and feel free to correct me here, but Nissan Made more 260Z's stateside than all three years of production on the 240Z. Maybe it was worldwide not stateside on the 260Z. In any case, it doesnt really matter. My point is that Im sure and its only my personal speculation here, that Nissan had multiple factories/lines pumping these cars out to hit these production numbers. What I believe happened was that the planned catalyst/big bumper production was implemented earlier in one factory/line as they used up the earlier style parts before the other factories/lines had. What I have not seen yet is a Federal model with big bumpers and no catalyst yet. My 9/74 260Z is a great car. I like it as much as my 240Z. Overall the 260Z is actually easier to work on when compared to the 240Z. The car has 240Z suspension and the 280Z style stub axles. Its the best of both! And since the 260Z has such a bad rep Ive been able to pick them up for next to nothing. Nobody seams to care if your not a purist with the 260Z as well so no one will shove their noses up at you when you put something outrageous in the engine bay... Though I tend to shy away from such folks anyway. So yeah, 260Z's suck; absolutely rubbish. Ill pick it up from your property for a nominal fee. Said 9/74 Production car for example no floor humps, no big bumpers, 240Z style strut tubes, turn signals down low, etc

I spoke with Cometic several years back. I cant remember the guys name that I had corresponded with. Basically there needed to be a good number of people interested for them to tool up. I had enough people interested in it to get a $200 price tag. Id be comfortable with $180-$210 gasket in multiple sizes from .6mm,1mm,1.5mm,and 2mm. Cometic seemed to think gasket thickness wasnt much of a cost issue after they were tooled to make the gaskets themselves. The guy I was in contact with eventually lost touch with me. After a barrage of emails from me I finally gave up and bought the $200 HKS 2mm headgasket.

Its been a while since Ive done anything with the car other than drive it. It was time for some video and pictures: Enjoy... I did

Im going with hidden vacuum leak still. Typically when the FPR goes out its the diaphragm. When the diaphragm goes out fuel comes out the vacuum hose as well. To proper diagnose FPR issues you need a fuel pressure gauge. I suggest a trip to harbor freight for one of those if your not so equipped. The change in pressure is going to richen up the mixture enough to keep the injectors supplied at WOT... you may not notice a big change at idle unless you have a 5 gas or wideband on the exhaust. Ive pulled them off before when they were known to be good and not seen a change in idle or anywhere else. Its just going to richen up the lower mixture enough to notice with the correct equipment. I would suggest against a fuel rail/injector swap. Dont waste your time unless you KNOW for sure the one you have is bad by diagnosis. Your already fully aware of the problems with swapping those injectors back and forth. There is a better chance that you end up creating another problem before solving the current one. Save yourself the headache in my opinion. Worth the $15 for a fuel pressure gauge than another headache. The FPR by itself would not cause your issues. The FPR as stated above will cause a rich condition at idle and part throttle conditions not lean as indicated by your AFM door opening(assuming AFM setting was still stock) Now that you know you CHTS is good, retest it at the ECU pins. Make sure the connector and harness arent adding in more resistance. At least if it isnt the CHTS you will know at that point and cross it off the list of diag like a flow chart from the FSM. I have seen the CHTS cause this issue before in Nissan and BMW... Both fail rich though. Personally Id invest in some sort of gas analyzer or wideband Nathan. You mess around with these engines and cars enough that it should be something in your arsenal. I run a Innovate wide band in one of my cars. Soon as I have some extra car cash Im going to get a second Innovate and set it up to be portable to use on multiple cars so I can tune my other cars at home. Knowing what your AFR was doing at the point of the stutter will greatly help in your diagnosis. Its also great for tuning those cars in and if your still running a ZX will help you to a point with your smog testing. The LC-1 runs $140 with no gauge. With a gauge it runs $160 or so. You can use any gauge with it though so if you find a cheap one with a digital readout you will be good to go. I dont think the LC-1 datalogs though. I have a separate datalogger setup with my LC-1. So you would have to be keeping an eye on it while trying to get it to mess up. As far as the vacuum leak goes, bust out a can of brake clean and start squirting spots of the intake where there is any rubber hose or gasket. I doubt this is it, but have you checked the oil cap seal, PCV system, and valve cover breather? That pesky PCV hose under the manifold always caught me on my worst days. Having a leak there with the system setup as stock can cause a good vacuum leak as that is all "metered" air in there. Opening the oil cap at idle should cause the engine to stumble and possibly stall. Insta-vacuum leak!

Turbo VAFM's are bigger and have a different circuit board than NA. Im sure everything related to tune including spring, couterweight, etc are all different as well between the 2. You can swap them back and forth, but Ive never been able to get a NA to tune for a Turbo.

The Carbon traces are a resistance board. Continuity will not tell you much of anything. You will need specific Ohm values to check for at pins. Because these resistance values affect current that is what the ECU reads as current draw through those circuits. You affect the resistance with contaminants or wear and the reading goes out the window for the ECU. GL

Confirmed Std Copper Cores for RB25DET. I have Dyno results with std coppers vs laser platinums and guess which one didnt misfire. I gap my plugs at .033"-.035". I tried .030" and noted it would sometimes misfire randomly at idle over long periods of time. They could very well be going out. The old coils in these end up with cracked insulation and in the dark watch them "leak" out to the aluminum mounting brackets. The tiniest cracks seem to leak and you can usually see the carbon outline the crank where the spark has been passing. THE best way that Ive found to make this happen with no load is a spray bottle of water in the dark. Without going into the physics of why this works I will just tell you what to do. In the dark lightly mist the coils when the engine has reached opperating temperature and lean down and carefully watch and listen. If there is a leak from the coils it will make noise and a light of spark. You should be able to trace down the bad coils this way and even see exactly where the spark is leaking from. I gave up on used coils and purchase a new set from Raw Brokerage. To set you timing you have to put the ECU into "Base Mode". If you didnt do that, you didnt adjust the timing correctly and it can do some weird things. Basically you confuse the ecu for lack of a better statement. Timing is 15* BTDC stock. Early RB25's can be put into base mod by unplugging one of the TPS plugs. Check the FSM to be sure as to which one(I remember it being the brown one but there is more than 1 style). Base Mode on a RB25det S2 can only be set with a plug in device. The old TPS trick will not work. Most high end Scan Tools, Nissan Consult, Nissan DataScan, and Im sure other lap top based softwares could do it. I dont trust computers to give me a good timing value as its all "perceived" values that they give you(blind leading the blind thing). I pull the #1 coil off and extend the boot with a regular spark plug wire so I can clamp my inductive timing light up to it and manually check the timing at the balancer for confirmation. That's probably more than anyone really needs to do though. If you have a recirc BOV system in place you should be fine either way. If your ECU is still using a MAF then it is a must that the BOV be recirculated before the turbo but after the MAF. If you do not the ECU will be getting erroneous information from the MAF at times. Besides all of that you should perform the basics. Check Fuel and Air. You know you have some kind of spark and we've given you the points needed there to determine if you have good spark. Fuel. check for proper pressure and volume(flow test if needed). Air. Make sure you have a clean air filter and that nothing is preventing air from the system where it should be getting air. Likewise with a Turbo make sure you dont have any leaks letting air out of places that should be holding in air. Brake Cleaner or Carb Cleaner will go a long way to finding leaks at idle when used with precaution of course. BTW: This all assumes that your engine is setup as its suppose to be with the correct parts or part modifications. Youve not given us much else to go on so we are left assuming its a stock RB25det setup as stock.

I cannot remember whether or not the ECCS system on those years used all three or just 2 out of 3. 2 out of three sounds right, but I do not know why. Ive always calibrated the throttle switch using all three pins. Its the only way you know its really setup in the correct position. In any case you should be able to cut the TPS wires off or cross them all together and still not end up with your situation. The TPS is fine trim on the mapping. Compounded issues with TPS out of wack can do what your describing. There is an ancient post about TPS map values, but I cant remember which board it was on, who was involved in the thread, what it was called, or when I saw it. If you want to search through all of TonyD's posts on Hybridz and Zcar you might find it. Cylinder Head Temp Sensor as Mario pointed out may be something to check just to be sure. Average infrared on the brass base and cylinder head around base is what I do and graph the resistance at cold and full operating temp with a few plots in between and you will should be able to compare that to the graphs in the FSM(My 82 Maxima FSM has them so the ZX manual should as well) or online somewhere. Check it at the ECU if possible. Where did you get the cylinder head temp sensor? None of the Kragen or Autozone replacement I have checked(And I checked a lot of them) were even close to whats suppose to be in these cars. I have checked both replacement parts for the CHTS and CTS(thermostat ones) and have had no luck. I have had better luck sourcing the sensors out of wrecking yards and cleaning them up meticulously then re-using them. Im not sure if they are available through the dealer, but my gut says yes and expensive. As far as this sensor goes its a major one. It could cause your woes but not without help. Double(or triple?) check for vacuum leaks. Perhaps there is one hiding somewhere around the manifold or a crack in the middle of a rubber hose? I would stress the phase "Compounded Issues" with these old systems and the fact that you pulled it all apart disturbing its natural state of being. Stuff Im sure you know Nathan. Now that you've played with the AFM thats definitely something you should re-set somehow. Get it back to as stock as possible. Otherwise all your going to do is mask other problems. Unless the AFM has worn out the carbon traces somehow during your head swap, I doubt it is the issue. If it ran well before the head swap it should run the same unless there was some major problem in the old head you didnt mention and the AFM was tuned for that. I have seen AFM's carbon traces wear down and cause similar issues as the AFM cross that point of the carbon trace... Cruise and part throttle being an area that the arm sweeps across the majority of the time during the cars use, it tends to wear that area more than the rest. I dont remember anything about testing the VAFM. Again FSM? See what you can find. Have you preformed wiggle tests? Wiggle your electrical and vacuum connections and make sure you dont hear, smell, or see any changes. Forgive me if Im stating the obvious. Im almost positive you know most of this. I have a feeling youve entered that fuzzy state of thought that occurs when youve been staring at something for to long. I know I havent given you much to go on, but hopefully that helps you eliminate some stuff that might have been given you "fuzzy" thoughts.

I might be in your area this week. I wont have much time, but Id be willing to give you some pointers and take a quick look. It all depends on where in San Jose your at. I will be going up to Fremont if your near my path up there. I dont think you would be having any better luck with an EFI setup for what its worth. Even a stock non-turbo basic L-jetronics system requires tweeking to get it to run correctly on an L(tweeking being restoration to the electrical components and tuning both of which you have not demonstrated with with the SUs. Hopefully you can extract my meaning). The systems are just to old and worn down to be thrown on any engine in most cases. The classic AFM and CTS woes would come back to haunt you much like the carb situation now. Despite how much of a "no brainer" EFI would seem to be, I very much doubt it would be the answer based upon the descriptions of your observations. There are several others already in your area that would probably help you out as well. Sit down and watch the Ztherapy video and read whatever you can find. Its worth the effort IMO. I would venture to guess that your carbs are probably untouched as far as cleaning and synching on top of lack of tune. My guess is based upon your demonstration of lack of knowledge and makes me think you would not know to preform these tasks. Simply adjusting the mixture knob on the bottom wont get you very far if these other things have not been addressed first. Choosing an oil for the slide(piston) dampener is also part of the tuning. Sounds like you have ATF in there. Thats pretty common. Both the mixture knob adjustment and oil choice are things to be preformed after the carbs have a basic setup. They are not things you can just go in and start adjusting on an unknown set of SU carbs unless your trying to limp it home. Without knowing a lot more information I dont think you will find even the most qualified SU guru out there that is going to be able to help you over the internet with your knowledge base. You have not even hinted at checking your plugs, synching the carbs, or making sure they are good carbs to start with. The butterflys and the slides move and that is all we are getting from this. Thats good, but not really helpful. If they didnt move then we would have some insight. You could be having non-carb related problems as well. Even compounded problems not related to the carbs themselves. A good example(and only an example) would be like if you fuel system isnt supplying the required fuel volume to the carbs and your ignition timing is off. If you want your car to run you have a few options. The basic options are: 1. Make the time to understand the operation of the powertrain including carbs, ignition system, and basic engine components no matter how you get the knowledge(internet, books, in person). This leaves you in the position of being able to work on your car the correct way and most of the time come up with usable solutions to your cars issues. This requires that for the most part you make an attempt to educate yourself. 2. Pay a shop a lot of money to work on an antiquated(and mostly unknown to the new line of techs that have the spoon fed electronics and dont know a lot about the old cars and old systems) system to fix all your problems and cross your fingers they do it right. You might get lucky and find a shop that knows exactly how to work on your car though. 3. Try the EFI swap(probably more costly than Ztherapy carbs if installing into a non-EFI car). 4. Sell the car. Im a hands on learner myself, but I find unless you have some of the coolest/trickest tools of the trade you just have to read sometimes. I did not fully understand SU carbs until I read a little. Once you understand their operation, working on them is fairly simple. Id take these any day over any 4 barrel I have ever seen for simplicity. PM me if your interested in me stopping by Ill get you my contact info. Ray

scotch brite pad lightly on the surface. In shops techs use a similar pad to clean up the surface. Your really not going to hurt that surface with a scotch brite pad even if you rub it in... As long as you end up with a semi-rough but true surface the gasket will seal just fine. You'll notice that the machine surface isnt polished smooth. That is on purpose. It helps the seal from what Ive been told. You should be able to confirm this with your machine shop. If you get worried about messing up your surface use a straight edge and a feeler gauge to check it. WD40 = "Water Displacement formula # 40" It works to keep water out for the most part. For shelf life tackier oils work better and can be cleaned off with brake cleaner. I like to use assembly lube or pneumatic tool oil to coat stuff. Its messy and removing it in your case with brake cleaner would most likely result in paint damage. I find it easier to leave the deck coated in oil, cover the bores, and then paint. A new razor blade easily takes the over spray off and the oil prevents it from sticking to the deck surface. Ray