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My RB25DE NEO project will be a street driver in the New England, so I am not so worried about overheating. For $50, I got a nice clean used radiator. If I have problems with it, I'll find another one, or go aftermarket. In my road racer I have only run USED radiators, and have never had overheating problems. Once season I ran a 2 core 240Z radiator! It makes about the same power as the RB25DE I'm putting in my street car project, and I'm certainly not going to push my street car anywhere near as hard as my road racer. Yea, if I were going bonkers with a 400HP RB build, I'd be putting a lot more into the cooling system. Pete

Agreed, but I'm sure the VQ swap is at least 2 times the work. I've got 2 other Zs that require my attention on a regular basis, and both are driven on the track. So I really wanted an easy swap, and with RB20 trans, it is looking that way. Been studying the RB25DE NEO schematics, and holy sh*t, I need to add 12 fuses, and 4 relays to the 240Z! Not quite as simple as a Megasquirt installation. The RB project will be driven by my wife an daughter on occasion, so a VQ is a bit much. I've got my turbo Z for when I need a little "Woo Hoo!"

I love the sound of the VQ35, even with the stock 350Z exhaust. It sounds amazing with your exhaust, and the performance looks great. I can almost feel it in the seat of my pants watching that video . Great work!

Picking up an open R200 with the gears you want and swapping the carrier is the easiest way to go. You will still need to shim the carrier bearings for the new gearset and housing. Most all transmission shops can do this. Change the seals while you are at it. Also, keep the races with the carrier bearings. Agreed. I have used newer carriers that have holes for 12mm bolts with older R200 gearsets that used 10mm bolts without any problems. If properly torqued, you should not have any issues. The ring gear is carrier centric, so the bolts do not do the alignment. Pete

Yes, but still 1/3 the rate of the stock coil using a mechanical distributor. Pete

The EDIS module requires a 36-1 wheel.

To be honest, I don't think there will be any noticable difference between directing the spray into the head port versus angling the spray towards the port using one of these bosses. Just mount them close to the head on the manifold. The tricky thing about welding these bosses is getting them aligned if you want to use a fuel rail.

Just because I had the parts, the means, and access to the equipment to do it. Something new I guess. Yes, there are many different injector bosses you can buy out there. The nice thing about this approach is the injectors fire into the head port directly like the stock EFI manifold. You would be hard pressed to do that with weld in bosses. Pete

Derek, You will have low pressure lift pump, correct? This pump will always be circulating fuel from the main tank to the surge tank. Fuel on the lift pump circuit should flow like: Main tank -> filter -> lift pump -> surge tank -> main tank The high pressure circuit should be: Surge tank -> EFI pump -> filter -> fuel rail -> regulator -> surge tank This will keep fuel circulating from teh main tank. Pete

I guess I don't understand the question. Is the surge tank going to be outside, or inside the main tank? If outside, you can put all of the fitting on the top plate of the surge tank. All you need is a feed and return to and from the main tank, plus the high pressure feed from the Walbro pump. These can all be on the top. If it is in the main tank, it must touch the bottom of the main tank, and there should be at least couple 3/8" holes supplying fuel to the surge tank. Pete

Just because it is COP, doesn't mean that the coil driver is in the COP module. Example: RB25 engines have a COP configuration, but the COPs do not have the driver built in, they are in a separate module. I'm sure you know this, but the coil driver converts a low voltage, low current trigger out put from the ECU into a high current pulse that fires the coil. The MS cannot do this alone, unless you use VB921s (which are just coil drivers BTW). The problem with VB921s is that they are not potted for engine compartment use, and will require you to build a circuit board, and attach them to a heat sink. OEM COPs with the driver built in is the only way to go IMO. If your COP modules have the driver buillt in like an LSx coil, then you can drive them directly with the +5V square wave output of the Megasquirt. Here is how you want to configure COP modules that have built in drivers for use with Megasquirt and a standard 36-1 (or other tooth count) CRANK trigger. OK and yes, this is technically wasted spark, but because you have a driver per coil, who cares. Both sparks will be equal in energy, unlike duel post coils that will have one spark a little weaker than the other. I have tested this configuration, and the MS ignition output signals can easily drive two COP modules that have the DRIVER BUILT IN. Pete

Hey Dave, It's a mid 71' (no seat belt pockets). The plan is for a street machine with suspension upgrades and a classic look. Something Beth or Julie could drive. - RB25DE (NA, 200HP stock) - RB20 5-speed (same as KA24 trans but diff bell housing) - Stock ECU / electronics - Eibachs and Koni struts (came on car) - Bigger sway bars - Stock brakes - 280Z booster - R160 VLSD from Subaru. - Stock interior The goal is to make it look like it came that way from Nissan. Chassis stiffening will be hidden. Something that you can just turn the key and drive it. Should be fun and reliable. Something I could drive across country. I'm using some of the parts I got from you on this car 8^). Yes, I am still smiling from Nelson Ledges last year. I'm up for another fun day out there. I've got the GTR2 Nelson Ledges track. It's pretty darn close to the real thing. Pete

I'm using the Bad Dog extensions. I'll post some pics of the install.

Jon, I think with all of the cross members in there, I'm OK. Plus like Roostmonkey said, the stock rails are there, and in good shape. I am patching a few rust holes in the floor, and then putting the Bad Dog rails in. The driver side is done, just needed power to start working on the passenger side. Lost power for almost 10 days with the ice storm.

I've got a come-along holding it from tipping one way, and a chain hoist preventing it from going over the other way. It is not going anywhere.

Got it held one way with the chain hoist, the other with a come-along. I also have the wheels blocked. The "Workbench" gets new floors, Bad Dog rails and sub frame connectors. Pete

My late 71' (aka, the work bench), the club car (mid 72'), and my Silver 240Z (June 72') all have vertical bolts. Pete

Joe, My late 72' has vertical bolts. Pete

No, I don't think you can use a 280Z cross member in a 240Z. The 240Z cross member bolts upward into captured nuts in the mounting points. The 280Z one uses long bolts that mount horizontally with nuts.

Thanks for digging these up. I picked up radiator from my local junk yard. $50, and it appears to be in nice condition. I had to elongate the holes in the radiator support a bit to make it fit. I'm going for an OEM look, so plain old rubber hoses is what I need, and like you, I don't want to buy OEM. Pete

I really like these: I'd be interested, and I'm sure others would be too, if we have a bunch made up. The only thing I would change is having it un-drilled for the hose barb or compression fitting. Then you could choose a right angle or straight configuration. This is a great way to use O-ring injectors with hose barb rails. Very nice! Pete

The lifters are NLA. I've hear of people cleaning them, and then they never worked again. If you can live with a little clacking every so often on cold mornings, I would leave them alone. Or convert to solid. Pete

The Cosworth Vega is a very *neat* car. Kind of reminds me of a 1/2 sized Chevelle. The header (my friends is Jet Hot coated so it looks sweet), and the EFI, very high tech for it's time. The Vega block without iron sleeves is POS. The Cosworth head is a beauty. It's got Muncie 4-speed in it!

The Summit Racing 8mm wire is a dead giveaway. Left over from one of the universal V8 sets I've bought over the years.

Not to jack my own thread, but a friend of mine has a Cosworth Vega with 41k miles on it. Motor was sleeved and had some mild head work done. Made almost 130WHP on a Dynpack: Dotted plot is before we took the cover off the air box.... Pete