z-ya

After a little bit of search, and looking through the stickies, I haven't seen anywhere a list of what domestic OEM parts will work on RB motors. Let's say you need a new starter, do you have to find a JDM one, or can you use one from a domestic Nissan vehicle, like a truck, or 240SX, or whatever. I'm taking about accessories, sensors, injectors, etc. Filling in the matrix in the attached spreadsheet would be very useful. I put the Z32 transmission in there as an example (not sure of compatibility). I am more than happy to maintain this list if people starting giving me input. Thanks, Pete RB_Accesory_JDM_to_Domestic_matrix.pdf

Yes, you need the R200 mustache from a 280Z. You also may need to swap the input flange from a 280Z R200. You can use your 260Z half shafts, but you will need the 280Z R200 spline shafts to mate to your 260Z half shafts. Pete

They are from a 280Zx turbo. They are clean (not a lot of smog fittings on them), and they are 50mm.

Roostmonkey and I did something similar with SU manifolds: It may go on the race car this winter. Pete

The MSD EFI pumps Summit Racing sells work well. Good for 500HP. Pete

Exactly. Except for swapping the R190 out at Mid Ohio because of a pinion seal leak, it has not failed us at an event (oh yea, blew the head gasket late in the day). It is officially hibernating for the winter... Pete

For most of the season, the race car performed really well. 5-6 events at NHMS in Loudon NH, 1 at Mid Ohio, and 1 at Nelson Ledges. I has been a great season, until this past week. Last Friday at a BMW event at Loudon, we blew the head gasket (it has been detonating on and off all season, so I'm not surprised). As we were taking it off the trailer to swap a new head gasket in, it died. Wouldn't start. Had to use the starter to get it off the trailer. So we swaped a new gasket, and try to start it. No spark. ZX distributor module died. Ok, so I rig up a 280Z distributor with an HEI module. OK, now we have spark, but no signal to the Megasquirt. Pulled the cover off the Megasquirt to find a burnt circuit board and input circuit. OK, the ignition failure took the Megasquirt with it. So I replaced the damaged components and bypassed the damaged parts of the circuit board. OK, so now it starts. Sounds good, but as it starts warming up, the radiator springs a leak. OK, so I put in a spare 4 core I have kicking around. Now it starts, and doesn't leak any fluids. Today when I start it to move it out of the garage, it starts running rough, and I look in through the cowl induction hood, and I see flames. The engine is on fire! I grab the extinguisher and put it out. The high pressure line at the fuel rail sprung a leak on the altenator which must have sparked the fire. Last and this coming Sunday I was planning on doing time trials. I am NOT doing any more track days this year. This car does not want to go to the track. I am going to leave it alone for at least a month so it can think about what it has done to me So to recap: - Blew a head gasket - Fried an ignition module - Toasted a Megasquirt - Breeched a radiator - Had an engine fire All in less than 5 days. Had better weeks.... Pete

I buy the MSD ones from Summit. Can't beat $14.10 for a set of 8. Pete http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSD-2400&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Rock solid nice work! Pete

Super nice work Derek! My stick built bracket looks like a PoS compared to yours.

I skip the relay board too. It is easy enough to build a harness with relays, then you have complete control over what signals get shielded and which don't. I keep the relays and fuses close to the MS inside the passenger compartment, everything else is sealed that ends up in the engine compartment. Pete

Nice work, keep us updated. Pete

I'm not a huge fan of body kits, but I really like this one. Nice job on the tailights too. Look like 60's Firebird tail lights. I have the two end pieces for the rear spoiler, anyone else have other pieces of this kit? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-240-Z-1970-Datsun-240-Z-Rallye-Car-In-Line-6-cylinder-Manual_W0QQitemZ140275561964QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item140275561964&_trkparms=72%3A727|39%3A1|65%3A12|240%3A1308&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

I think the coil placement is good, but you have to make it from metal. The MDF looks a little cheesy. If I ever get around to using my LS1 coils on a project, I want to mount them to the valve cover side using 1/4-20 aluminum stand-offs. I think this would be a clean install Pete

jakeoster, Thanks for the tip. I'm going for an OEM look on my RB25DE swap, and I don't like the idea of running the top hose across the front of the engine. Probably more than enough cooling capacity or the DE motors. I like the idea of using the stock fan too if the shroud will work. Pete

Are you using PWM mode, or do you have a resistor in series with each injector? Measure the resistance with your multimeter, if they are in the 2.6 Ohm range, then they are low impedance like the ZXT ones. BTW, I run Ford (Bosch) Thunderbird green tops in my turbo car (8 of them). They are 370cc/min BTW. Pete

I love using OEM stuff. Great quality, and cheap (used that is). Pete

Nope, there is no support internally for the VB921 in the v2.2 mainboard. The VB921 is the coil driver, and EDIS has them built into the EDIS module itself. So all you need is an EDIS module, coil pack, VR sensor, and a MS v2.2 running extra code. Pete

I have molds for BSR front fenders, front splitter, rear deck spoiler, 280Z valances (thanks Challenger) and headlight buckets. I would like to have a few prototypes made to modify and make new molds from.

Stock long block?

Mike, Nothing was meant in a negative way, I am just getting tired of the meaningless clutter (which includes this post), so maybe I got a little excited. I didn't find the post all that funny, so I wanted to convey that fact. I come here to learn and contribute in a technical way. You are correct, it is not in my character to be personally offensive to anyone. It is the way I live my life. My track record here at HybridZ proves that. I appreciate your effort here Mike (and all the moderators). Let's just end it here, and get on with the original thread. Thanks, Pete

Make sure your battery is fully charged, then disconnect the alternator from the electrical system and see if the problem goes away. Make sure you put some tape on the big wire to the alternator to prevent shorting to the chassis. Disconnect the two wire plug also. Pete

Same here Tony. Came to this thread first yesterday to read the meaningless post. Nothing negative implied in my previous posts. Let's just keep the creative technical content coming. Personally, I just don't have time for the rest of it. BTW Blackwidow, my setup is practically identical to DevilZeto's, and it makes 300WHP at 14psi (factual, measured, and useful information.....). Pete

There was nothing intelligent, informative or funny about your post, so in my mind, it was useless. If you don't have anything constructive to add to a thread, don't post to it. Read and learn instead. Nothing personal. Pete

WTF? If you don't have anything constructive to post, don't bother.