z-ya

Those are nice numbers for only 6psi. I predict around 300WHP at 15psi if the turbo can flow enough. Pete

Looking at the datalog, it could be either resets, or a bad +12V connection somewhere. You need to monitor 12V at the MS when this happens. You can do it with a test light that you can see while driving (or an analog volt meter if you have one).

Dave, There are ground "pins" in the RS-232 connector, so they are grounded at each device (pin 5 of a DB9). This ties to the drain on each end from the foil shield in the cable (bare wire). It is OK to tie both ends of the RS-232 interface to ground inside the device. Ground loops are not much of a concern in digital interfaces, so connecting both ends is OK. Ground loops in digital communications can effect very high speed interfaces with very fast edges. Not a concern with RS-232 (115,200 bps max). The reason for not connecting both shield ends of the PI ans SAW signals is because the EDIS modules uses an analog trigger input (VR), so anyway you can isolate low level signals to and from the EDIS module from engine compartment noise (ground and 12V), is a good thing. The shield protects the VR, PIP, and SAW signal from electrical aggressors in the electrical system of you car. Pin 5 is grounded on the MS, and it also should be in your display. Pete

Dave, You RS-232 cable may already be shielded, most of them are. You can also make one (easier to buy one, take my word for it). Pete

It wasn't taken as such ... Pete

Nice work Dave, looks good. I am wondering if the advance gauge vs. timing map not matching is a bug in Extra code. That is what I was running on the supercharged engine, and there was always an offset between them (equal to the trigger angle offset). It is not a big deal being off a few degrees, as long as you catch it before pushing the boost up. Let the software compensate for it (a lot easier than remounting the sensor). Pete

Something like this might help: I'll see if the pressure increase in the surge tank fixes the issue before trying to cool the fuel. Pete

Your trigger wheel sensor alignment is off. Limp home mode is 10 deg BTC, so if it is reading 0 deg, you are 10 deg off. Use the timing trim angle to compensate. The map should match the light. Ignore the MT gauge, it is a bug. It is late.... Pete

Are you sure that your timing tab and crank damper actually line up at #1 TDC? What do you have the trim angle set to, 8 deg? I have seen a discrepancy between actual timing and the MT gauge. The timing table is always accurate. Pete

Super nice work! I was having left handed starvation problems hence the surge tank. The fitting on the main tank pointed towards the driver side, so left handers pulled fuel away from the pump inlet (even with a 4" deep sump!). Now I have a fuel heating problem that appears after a long day of sessions. I'm hoping that pressurizing the surge tank a couple PSI will cure the pump cavitation problem that is causing air bubbles on the high pressure side. Pete

It is a competition car (not street legal), not a trailer queen. I refer to it as a "25 footer". Any closer than that and it could get ugly. you can see more uglyness here: http://s160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/psanders240/clubcar/ Pete

Problem resolved. Here is the surge tank I installed:

Here it is installed:

The pumps also get quite hot, which I'm sure adds to the heating effect of the fuel. Both tanks get warm BTW. I have a another gauge and a low pressure regulator that I will install tonight. I'll let you know what happens after the next event. Pete

This is a good street cam. Decent idle (a little lumpy). Should pull well up to 6000RPM. You can use the stock springs if they are within spec. A straight 2.5" exhaust will be really LOUD. Look t add at least one glass pack. The head volume of the MN47 is around 39cc, so your CR will be close to 11:1, which is not so good for pump gas. You certainly get more power if you can keep it from detonating. Pete

You need to select an unused pin on the DB37, and then pick an unused output from the MSII. It is kind of involved. You can also try the diode trick, it should work. Pete

Yes it will drive the 280Z tach fine. No series resistor is required. You do need to add the driver circuit to the breadboard on the V3 mainboard: Pete

I think John (gnosez) has a spare low pressure regulator. We'll give it a try at the next event. Thanks, Pete

Dave, You might be right, as it is a liquid filled gauge, and it is in the engine compartment. But even after sitting with the hood off for 1/2 hour or so, the pressure still read 30psi. But I am hearing detonation under full load when this happens, so I do believe that the fuel pressure is dropping. Thanks, Pete

Hey Tony, I do notice that the surge tank gets warmer as the day goes on. It is warm to the touch at the end of the day. The problem also appears to happen later in the day also. The pressure in the surge tank is close to atmospheric. The surge tank ports are as follows: From main tank - 5/16" To main tank - 5/16" To high pressure pump inlet - 3/8" From fuel rail - 5/16" Maybe I should reduce the return port to the main tank to 1/4"? This should allow some pressure to build up in the surge tank. Thanks, Pete

Here is a problem I am seeing on the track car after a long session. It is fuel injected NA L28, and I am using the stock fuel rail and FPR. When I start the track session, the fuel pressure is stable around 38psi at idle. Near the end of the session, I start hearing a little detonation, so I have to ease up a bit on it. When I get back to the garage, the fuel pressure is 30psi at idle. I would think that as an engine heats up, it will pull less vacuum, but this would cause the fuel pressure to rise when it got hot. The stock FPR is a few years old (one of the nicer looking items under the hood), and I have tried two fuel pumps just in case the pump was getting hot. I don't think both pumps are having the same problem. I am running a two pump system, one to keep the surge tank full (with a return back to the main tank), and another to feed the engine (with a return back to the surge tank). I plan on relocating the FPR to the passenger firewall to see if that helps. Comments appreciated. Pete

No, it should not interfere at all. The sensor is ~1mm from the teeth, so the rest of the wheel will be in the noise. Nice work BTW.

Yes, the trigger offset can compensate. Use a timing light to calibrate your timing. Also, there is a bug in Megatune that you should be aware of (unless they fixed it). When you use the trigger offset, the timing displayed in the Megatune gauge panel will not include the trigger offset. Only the timing values in the timing table will be correct. So once you calibrate your ignition, always check your timing in the timing table, not using the advance gauge in the megatune gauge panel.

Nice work. Did you spin it on a lathe to true it up? Pete

For some reason I though the trip of the T04B was 60. I looked at it last night, it is .6 A/R. Do you know what the trim might with with this A/R? With the ported WG hole, I can now control the boost level. With it un-ported, there was not enough bypass. Before porting with the ball-spring valve in there set so the boost was 12psi on the old turbo, it would boost to 12psi at the normal rate, and then climb to 20psi very quickly. Without any controller in there, it would boost to 8psi, and then gradually climb to 15psi as RPMs increased. If I didn't let off, it would have continued to climb. Even though the WG was opened (I verified this using the video camera while doing a pull), the boost continued to rise. With the ball-spring valve in there, the turbine is spinning at a higher RPM for a given engine RPM, so it is closer to a run away situation. This is why it climbs quicker to 20psi with the vale as compared to without. Make sense?