z-ya

You can use the sensor ground for the braided outer shield. Find some cable with two inner conductors, and use one for power, the other for the signal. Put the capacitor at the sensor between power and ground.

Dave, no sign of wear that I could see. Yup, mine was assembled like this out of the box:

OK, now I understand how you have things wired up. R12 is your "pullup" resistor BTW. The way you have it connected should work. My circuit will also work because the interrupt (IRQ) pin on the processor where the output of the opto isolator goes is configured to be "edge" triggered, not "level" triggered. So either circuit will work. Sorry I can't be much more help than than that without putting a scope probe on it. Pete

So you are running the sensor ground back to XG1? Where is the sensor getting a ground reference to the 5V power? You must provide a ground reference to 5V for the sensor to operate correctly. This is a much better way to use that sensor with the MS 3.0 mainboard (see first attachment). Now if that isn't enough to convince you, look at attachement 2 from the Allegro application note: http://www.allegromicro.com/en/Products/Design/an/an27701.pdf

I took my OBX apart tonight, and confirmed that the gears are arranged like this photo of a Quaife unit: Not the way cygnusx1 unit came: Please confirm that I am correct on this. The washers are in perfect shape. Little to no wear after one season of street driving, and a couple track days. I have my washers arranged like this: ))))((((. There is at least one washer of preload in this configuration. Pete

Are you asking me? Do you have XG1 and XG2 connected? If so, that is where the ground reference is coming from. If not, they should be connected. Yes, you should remove C30 and C12 as these are for connection directly to a coil. Depending on what the waveform looks like at OPTOIN, you can shunt D1 and D2 as well as these are adding another 1.4V of drop before the input of the opto isolator. Do you have a scope? Pete

There still is an input threshold voltage at which the internal LED will turn on in the opto isolator. It looks like its somewhere between 1.2 1nd 1.5 volts.

A bypass capacitor should be placed as close to the device as possible. Three feet away from the device will not do much. You need a pullup because an input (input to the opto circuit) will float to some nominal voltage. What is this voltage? What is the input threshold on the opto circuit? The goal of the pullup is to "pull" the input to a "known" voltage. You don't want input circuit floating at some unknown voltage. Noise can easily couple into floating inputs. This is what most likely causing your problem. The resistor is to limit current (the hall sensor has current limiting, but a resistor is a good idea to protect the device). A 1K Ohm will limit current through the hall sensor to ~12mA. The hall device can source 25mA before going into current limit mode.

Yea, it looks like the datasheet recommends an external 0.1uF bypass capacitor: http://www.allegromicro.com/en/Products/Part_Numbers/3240/3240.pdf Do you have the A3240LUA-T output pulled up? You should put a 1k pullup resistor between pin 24 of the DB37 and S12. This will make pin 24 got to 12V when the A3240LUA-T output is off. If you just let it float, it will be very sensitive to noise, and it could be floating around the threshold of the opto in circuit.

It depends on the VR input circuit. I know EDIS modules will not trigger if the VR sensor leads are reversed.

Two months to get lash pads? Did you try Courtesy Nissan? They should have most all sizes in stock.

Dished. Still a good block.

Super clean, great attention to detail. Awesome Derek! If need an updated MSII map, let me know. I've got mine running pretty good (god enough for the dyno). Pete

Looks great Derek. One issue I see is the wire sleeving. Unless you are running a heat shield, that stuff will melt so close to the header. Also, the TPS may not be able to take the heat. I would take Tony's advice and mount the TPS on the gas pedal or somewhere else in the linkage. Or, don't run one. You can use MAP base enrichment. I would eliminate all wires from under the manifold. Or you can get some of that high temp wire Sleeving:

It absolutely is worth it. If you find an L28 with an N42 head, everything from your L24 will just bolt on. You will need to do a little SU tuning to get the mixture right.

I believe you can do what I suggested and then invert the signal electrically before going to the ECU.

11.5:1 is too high for street use. We here in the east have 93 octane, so 10:1 is streetable for sure. Pete

Find ANY L28 short block, rebuild it using a set of ITM flat top pistons. Use the L28 rods and crank. Use your E31 head and a stock head gasket for a 10.2:1 CR. This should be good for a 40-50HP gain. I'd say that setup would make 180-200WHP with the proper tune.

It was making 8lbs, and the CR was around 8:1. Yup, I could of added water injection, or I was actually planning some supplementary fuel injectors just below the throttle body for an intercooling effect. Didn't last long enough. If you want boost, just go turbo.

Derek, I guess I was thinking of mating your sensor bracket, and my wheel. Of course anyone can have these wheels made. Waterjet, plasma, whatever. I was just thinking of people that may want a new damper. BTW, these Powerforce dampers are essentially the same as the old "Euro" damper Nismo used to sell. So the two bolt spacing is the same. What is really weird is the Nissan damper had 1/4-20 threaded holes, and the Powerforce has 8mm ones.

Can't you just remove two teeth from the EDIS wheel, then skip one, remove two, skip one, etc.?

I had one of those superchargers once too. Got it to make 255WHP, and then a few track days later a couple pistons melted. Those old Camden superchargers make more heat than anything. Intake air temps would reach over 275F on the track.

Not to throw a wrench in all of this, but these are OLD dampers you are working with. It can get ugly when one of these old dampers come apart at RPM. These guys can rebuild it for you: http://www.damperdoctor.com/ You might think about using a new one because they are not all that expensive: http://www.professional-products.com/dampersProductNissan.php I have this one on my race car. MSA sells it for $89. I think Damper Doctor charges close to $80 to rebuild one. I had a 36-1 wheel plasma cut so that it bolts to the two holes in the Powerforce damper. The only thing I did was mount it on the damper (grade 7 bolts plus locktite), then I trued the assembly on a lathe. The time consuming part was stick building the sensor bracket with 1/4" steel rod. This is where your nice CNC bracket would come in handy. I could have a bunch of these wheels cut if people are interested. So no machining would be needed as I could true them all up in one sitting in front of a lathe. Bolt the wheel on the new damper, mount the sensor, and you would be good to go. This is what one of the wheels looks like that I had made for the supercharger setup I had. The one I'm running now looks similar, but just has two mounting holes in it. Just a thought. Pete

Is that lunar lander foil? Are you planning a trip to the moon?

I think there is a thread already on this topic, but here goes anyway. My recently completed dual throttle body conversion: My turbo car: