z-ya

I brazed it because I stink at welding, and there can't be leaks or the oil pump will suck air. Brazing is like soldering, but with a lot more heat. If you were REALLY good at MIG welding it might work. TIG would be best.

The turbo distributor requires the turbo oil pump shaft. If you were going fuel injection with Megasquirt, and you wanted timing control, then I would use the turbo distributor. If you are going carbs, and just want modern ignition, use a 280Z, or early 280ZX distributor (80-81). With the 280Z distributor you can use a GM HEI module or the 280Z one. The ZX distributor has the module mounted on the side of it. You can also put a Pertronix in your 240Z distributor. Pete

As stated in another post, it looks like the Z31 RB20DET oil pump pickup will be on backorder for a while. Who knows if they will make more of them. So I took the matter into my own hands, and came up with this. I cut the front sump pickup into three pieces so that I could change the way that it contours into the oil pan. I used thin wall tubing on the inside of the pickup tube to make it stronger than just brazing alone. Plus it allowed me to extend the tube a little more towards the rear of the engine. I don't have a TIG welder, and I'm good at brazing and soldering, so this is how it turned out: Took me about 2 hours to make it. A nice after Thanksgiving Day project. Know to eat some turkey! Pete

Clive, you've got a serious yard sale going on there ... Good work, keep us posted on the progress. Pete

I agree, I don't like the idea of gluing magnets to the damper, but that is what SDS does. If I remember correctly SDS uses 3 or 4 magnets equally spaced on the crank pulley. It interpolates the angles in between the magnets in software. EDIS does not have to interpolate because it uses a 36-1 wheel. this provides 1 trigger pulse per degree of rotation (minus 1 for 60deg BTC). If you are hooked on SDS, then you make a custom trigger wheel and use a single VR sensor (not sure what the SDS trigger input is compatible with). Wolf 3D, V500, etc system also interpolate like SDS. Nothing wrong with it, just a different way of doing it. Pete

I believe it is a 82 or 83 200SX with the Z22 engine. They are hard to find. None of the .com radiator companies have it.

If you are going to spend the extra $ to balance your engine, you should balance everything. Flywheel, pressure plate, damper, etc. The entire rotating assembly, otherwise it will not be balanced when you bolt it all together. I have a Powerforce damper on the race car, and by itself it balanced perfect. When I bolted my EDIS trigger wheel on, the balance was off enough where we had to drill and 1/8" deep 3/8" hole to get it balanced again. So even a trigger wheel on the crank damper can effect balance. That pressure plate looks like a stock OEM replacement type. I've had good luck with Clutchmasters. Pete

For most all street use, a BPR6ES (projected tip), or BR6ES (non projected tip), is all you need for the street. Always use resistors plugs, especially if you have varying plug wire lengths. 7s or 8s should only be use in race engines where extreme cylinder pressures and temperatures are reached. The electrode will actually get hot enough that cylinder pressures will move it around. Running 7 sor 8s on a street engine will most likely cause fouling at low speeds and idling. Just run 6s unless you are building a race motor.

I've bought them from Courtesy Nissan in the past. It appears that their Nissan Motorsports section has disappeared. I think I paid $3 each. Call them 800.527.1909

Nice install. I'm liking the idea of a efficient NA street driver. I'm building an RB25DE street 240Z. Not as cheap as your swap, but the NA RB stuff is a lot cheaper than the turbo parts.

Hey Clive. That's a nice looking 240Z, I like the flares. The extra 200cc of displacement the 3.0L will give you is really not worth the cost in a turbo build. You're better off spending that money on a nice turbo, engine management, and an intercooler. There is plenty of info on this on HybridZ, so dig in! I'm running a stock long block with a hydraulic head and it's easily makes 300WHP @14psi. If I were to build another turbo motor this what I would do: - F54 block bored 1mm over - L28 Crank - L28 Rods - Forged flat top pistons - P90 head (solid), mild intake and exhaust cleanup work - Schneider 270-60F-14 camshaft, new springs, retainers, and lash pads - Resurfaced stock rocker arms - Stock Nissan head gasket - Balanced rotating assembly - 90055 PowerForce+Plus damper Pete

I completely understand what a torque plate does, it is just not needed to hone (or even bore) an L6. I like 1 fast z's idea of making one from a head though. If you were to use a bare head, and when you bore from the bottom for the first time you just bore all the up through the head. then the next time you use it, you can bore/hone from the top. I suppose you could use a junk block and bore it to 90mm just locate the holes in the head.

Exactly! Just torque the main bearing caps.

Dave, not you now..... Did it feel like slow motion? When I hit the tire wall at Mid Ohio, that is what it felt like to me. You did a great sledgehammer-prybar body work on my car, get to work! Before Dave's handy work: After Dave's handy work:

Looks good! Keep us posted on you progress. Pete

You can use an RB20DET or any RB25 transmission. I have a RB20DET transmission that I will probably use. The RB25 transmission is stronger, but for the RB25DE, the RB20DET transmission is plenty strong (and thin like a stock Z transmission). Pete

I'm putting an RB25DE NEO in a 240Z street car project. Stock it makes 200HP, so with an opened up intake and exhaust, it should be good for 170HP or so at the wheels. Stock ECU, internals, everything. It going to look like it came in there from the factory. Nice flat torque curve. I picked up the motor cheap. I'm thinking that I can do this swap for less than what it will cost me to build an L28 to make the same power, and and I won't have to screw around with a Megasquirt or carburetors.

this guy is making them too. Not sure about his reputation, but I will know soon as I recently ordered the tow hook set from them. http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt73726/IMSA_RACING__BODY_KIT_

I don't really look at what the idle timing is with or without the vacuum advance connected. I don't have any control over the advance curve of the distributor I am using, so it doesn't matter what the idle timing is. What is important is the timing at high loads and RPMs, this is where I have had detonation problems. This is where a dyno comes in handy. You can put a full load on the engine, and watch the timing as the RPMs increase. Once the mechanical advance is done advancing (somewhere over 3000RPM), the timing is steady at 28 deg. I prefer to set the timing this way because it is really all that matters, especially in a track car with not a lot of power (your either on the throttle full, or not at all). Pete

Yes, timing over 3500RPM, WOT (no vacuum), full mechanical advance. Pete

Club car? Your the fabricator, get right on it !

We dyno tuned the track car in August, and we played around with timing a lot. We targeted 13:1 AFR, and tried to tune for max power. The goal was to have a little safety margin. 25deg - 151HP 28deg - 168HP 30deg - 179HP (slight detonation) Here is the dyno plot at 28deg: This is with a mild cam (460lift/280dur), and no head work.

Sounds like there is a blockage in the intake or exhaust. I would check the following: - Air cleaner, make sure nothing is living in it. - Air flow meter, make sure the flapper inside can move freely - Have some check for exhaust flow when you rev it. Let us know how you make out. Pete

Running less advance will not hurt your motor, but detonation will! Check your compression, you may have a head gasket that is failing. I run basically the same engine in my track car and recently blew the head gasket. I am assuming because of detonation I couldn't hear when on the track. I have a problem with fuel pressure dropping after a number of track sessions. This was causing it to lean out and detonate. Did you check your full advance with a timing light? Full advance should happen above 3500RPM or so. I suspect it is in the 28-30 degree range with your setup. Pete

Evan, Thanks for the pointer. I will try and summarize the information on the nicoclub thread into one table. I'm more interested in used and or aftermarket replacement as the build I'm doing is on a budget. I'm not looking to spend $300+ on a Nissan OEM starter, when I can get a Napa one for $79 (found this on nicoclub). Thanks, Pete