chrism

I'm getting a fuel pressure guage to see waat the fuel rail pressure is. I read that it should be someware around 35 psi. I'm thinking that too much pressure could be causeing it to run rich. I have the settings all the way to -50 and it still idles rough with much less smoke. Keep in mind that I'm not trying to tune the engine, just get it limping into the shop without flooding. If all else fails, I'll run without the SAFC . I drove it down the street the other day like that. Lots of smoke at idle but got up to speed good.

Not sure if I’m just shooting myself in the foot. I got a good deal on a V-Apexi II. I connected all the wires needed for power, ground, TP sensor, MAF sensor, RPMs Did not have any Knock sensor wires so I’m not using that feature. Read on other forums that it wasn’t needed anyway. Ignoring all V-Tec settings and connections. My engine mods . Sard fuel regulator vacuum controlled and 444 injectors. My turbo is stock. I set the In to 1 and the Out to 2. Seems to run better that way. I have the Wide Band and Narrow Band settings to –20 for all RPM ranges Hi and Lo throttle. Car seams to run lean during Idle but it runs rich in all other ranges. Not sure what else to do. I just want to get the car running good enough to limp down to the shop and have it tuned. If anyone has an RB20DET with similar setup, could you please let me know what your SAFC settings are. Also, without the SAFC the car ran rich but at least I could get down the road. Lots of smoke. Couldn’t find anything on this site. I have been told by a lot of tuner shops that this SAFC would work, just look stupid in the car. For the price, I just don't care. Any help would be great. Thanks

I remember as a kid living in northern Illinois, when the population grew bigger, so did the water reserves. We built more lakes. Don’t see any increases in water reserves around here

Good idea.

I've been in Raleigh for the past 22 yrs. I don't remember it being this bad. I hope my well doesn't go dry. This is the first time we had large trees drop leaves before fall. Some of the poplar trees started to bud a 2nd time after we go some rain last month and then the buds died. Pray for rain.

That is exactly what I'm gonna do. I will estimate the length of line and use that to test the MBC. If it works and is not loud, then I should be ok to put it in the center console. I'll update this thread when I get it done.

My son thinks that I wasted my money putting in a double pass radiator with a pull fan. I'm going to make him read this thread.

Thats good to know. I'll have to keep an eye on it.

Thanks, Still cleaning up the old wiring. I just got done pulling out all the old starter wires, relays, coil wiring, distributor wiring. I was thinking about putting a manual boost controller in the center console storage compartment so that when you open up the compartment between the seats, you will only see the knob sticking out from the side. I have to hook it up outside and see how loud it is first. If it is quiet somewhat, then that should be a good location

The fan pulls all the air. The cover is space about a half inch away from the fins. Hard to see in the picture. When the fan kicks on, you can feel a lot of air flow. It really pulls hard. Also, this is just a little RB20. I don't think it is going to be a problem for the double pass radiator to keep things cool.

Thanks. I'll keep that in mind. For now, we will see how long the JB Weld holds up.

Try checking the dust cover where the shaft and trans mate. Sometimes they get bent a little bit and rub. You may not have this problem but if the shaft is too long, it will rub hard against the housing of the trans also.

Finally figured out the twin relays on the RB20. When I applied power to the white and purple wire going to the ignition coil relay, the car would spark but the injectors would not work. I looked at the grounding wires on the ECU and noticed that both of these relays get a ground signal from the same pin #16 on the ECU. Also, when the ignition coil relay is connected to power, it drains the battery while the car is not running. When I opened the wire harness past the ECCU connector for about 1 ft, I found the purple and white wire and the black and white wire were tied together. One of them is used to supply 12v from battery to the relay and the other is used to energize the coil in the relay. I cut the black and white wire loose and tied that to power when on seperate from 12v battery. Then when I put the relay back in, I noticed that the fuel pump and ECU powered up with no key in the ignition. Same as before. That is what was draining the battery. The only thing that I can think of is that the ground wire that ties both relays together was somehow being pulled low and turning on the ECCS relay. If you look at the schematic, you will see that both the 12v supply and coil input voltage are tied together for the ECCS relay Not sure why it doesn't cause issues with the skyline and I don’t know what is going on inside the ECCU. So, I cut the orange wire from the Ignition coil relay and ran that to chassis ground. Now the ECCU only comes on when the key is turned on and the Ignition coil relay works using chassis ground instead of getting ground from the ECCU. The battery does not get drained and the car starts fine. I’m not having problems anymore. In summary, on the Ignition coil relay, cut the black and white wire loose from the harness (ignition coil relay) and tie it to power when on. Then cut the orange wire from the Ignition coil relay and ground pin #16 and run that to chassis ground being careful not the disconnect the orange wire between the ECCU and pin#16. That should solve the battery draining issue, provide plenty of power to the Ignition coils, and allow the injectors to open and close properly. If you think you’re having this problem then try a simple test. When the key is out of the ignition, Is the light to the ECU still on. You may not hear the fuel pump turn on because pressure has built up in the line.

Ya, Thats the one. Price looks good but Min bid has not been reached yet. Thanks for the info.

Does anyone know what year this fuel tank fits for 280Z. I need one for a 1975. Mine leaks and has thin spots. I nudged it with the jack and it started leaking in several spots. Owner is not sure if it is for 75/76 or 77/78. Don't see anything with search. PART # 17201-N4201.

sounds like a better location to pick up colder air.

Thanks. Still have a lot of wire cleanup to do. Also installed a Honda civic charcoal filter under the driver side flap in front of the master cylinder. It’s small and out of the way and this location places it next to where the vacuum lines come from the RB Intake That makes more room for my Sard fuel regulator to mount on the passenger side clost to the fuel rail.

I've been reading several post with people asking how to get the air filter to fit inside the bay and not have to run more piping through the radiator support. This is what I did to keep from having to carve up the support and keep the Z a little bit more intact. One thing that I promised myself when starting the project was to not cut gaping holes all over the place to get things to fit. Man was that a job. In these pictures you can see that the air filter sits flat. It is located between the intercooler piping and the radiator. There is nothing blocking the sides of the filter and when the hood is closed I have about 2 inches above the filter. Works great. It might not be the best location for maximum performance but I’m not trying to be the fastest car on the road. Just want to have fun with it. Take a look.

I don't know but I was thinking that without the resistors which are needed to limit current, everything else in the circuit should start to get a little warmer. If there are transistors in the path, they more than likely will heat up from high current flow. All that current has to find its way back to ground through something. In your case it's probably the transistors. One side of the transistors should be going to ground in order to pull down 12v on the injectors.

First thing I'm gonna do is document all the wiring that was done with a wire diagram that shows signal names and wire colors. What wire requires power when on and what wire requires 12v battery. Exactly how I wired up the GTR444 injectors and dropping resistor. Right now I have too much being powered by the ignition key and that is going to burn the contacts over time. Need to add some relays to move the load away from the ignition key switch. Also still have to remove the old wire harness. lots of wires not needed but I was wainting until the car started before doing that. I also have to wire up the SAFC to address the rich running injectors. I don't have a video camera but this might be a good time to get one. I can use the money that I save doing the swap to justify getting one. At leat thats what I'm gonna tell my wife.

I just went through a similar ordeal. They were not working on my car as promised. Didn't have any damage though. After about a month, the mechanic pulled my aside and apologized for the delay. He said that he did not know why they kept bumping my car for other jobs. They usually make good money on jobs when the customer already has all the parts needed in the back seat. He also told me that the way things are looking, it would be another two months before they would get to my car. Funny, no one was going to tell me that when I called every day to see it they started on the car. The mechanic offered his personal cell pone and told me to call him if I needed any advice. I took the car home and in about 10 hours, I swapped the injectors and got the car to start for the first time. Can’t bash the mechanic but he works for a bunch of idiots. They wont be in business for very long doing that to people.

The wire diagram looks good but you can tie all the white wires together in the harness and run one white wire to the battery. They are common at the battery anyway. Save some wire.

The pig finally lit up. I just got my RB20 to start after months of fabrication and learning how the electrical system works. What a curve that was. I still have some more electrical mods to make but, it’s running. One thing that I learned was don’t connect battery to the white and purple wire on the ignition relay. It will leave the ECU energized and drain the battery. I cut the black and white wire and connected power when on to that wire. Then I connected 12v battery to the white and purple wire. Works great. Can’t wait to start cleaning up all the wires and get the piping back on. What a relief. Hopefully everything else will be easy. I’m looking forward to just worrying about what type of seats to get or should I put new gauges in the dash. The write ups on this site helped a lot. What was most helpful was the FSM that I downloaded from the home page. Between the FSM and helpful threads, I was able to see what other people were talking about and get it running.

If none of that works, check the fuel regulator to see if it is creating too much fuel pressure to build in the fuel rail.

You will have to have accountability in the program. I would want to set some limits and rules posted. Also, you could add a place on the site that shows who has what tools and if they are in violation of loan out rules. Delinquent or damaged when returned. Things like that. Another thing would be to have insurance on the tools incase they get lost, stolen, or damaged. This would have to be paid by the person borrowing the tool. Some of the tools could be very expensive. I’ve done this in the past with a company that I use to work for and it was ok but it does take a lot of someone’s time to coordinate a loan out program and police everyone who is using the program. Good idea, just have to keep everyone honest