chrism

I have asked questions in the past with no responses. At least no one had to tell me to search because I did but there was no information available in any threads. Someone could have given me some grief at the time because there are FSM manuals in the download section that had the answers I needed. One thing I would ask from those that ask questions and get no answers, please go back and update your post to show what you found out. (Assuming that you found out to correct information) Some of the information asked may not be known by anyone on the forum for what ever reason. It could be valuable. I have a couple of post that I need to do that to.

You shouldn't have to have the MAF connected to get the engine to run. The ECU will detect that the MAF is not sending a signal and cut over to the default value. It will let the engine start but it will not rev. Upload the FSM that is on this site and look at the diagnostics section for the injectors. That should show you how the injector system is wired and how the ECU controles the injectors. Also check to see if you should have dropping resistors. If the injectors are low impedence, then you should have a set of droppig resistors in the harness. All of this is in the FSM.

$5.4k. L28 rebuilt with 10k miles on it. Drove it home with a couple of problems. 5 speed had some linkage issues and the T3 turbo was shot. Car had very little rust and the paint is in good enough shape that some minor touchup will be enough. Came with spare 4 speed transmission and non turbo exhause manifold. Decided to do swap rather than put time and money into the L28. If you look at most of the post on this thread, no one is talking about selling the car and for how much. Sounds like me, I want this car for a very long time. If the motor blows up, I,m gonna drop another one just like it back in. Thanks JDM. Thanks Japan for the high cost of your car inspections .

The only scam I am aware of is the one where they send you more money than you are asking for. Then they say to send a portion of the check to someone else for what ever reason and you keep the rest along with shipping the car. The bank cashes the check. 10 Days later, the check is found to be no good and you, not the person that sent the check will be held liabel for the check. Your bank is trained in this type of thing and can check out the source of the check for you if needed.

Thanks for the feedback. Laser mufflers still look good and the stainless steal quality looks good. There are other places to get F1 type mufflers. Just need to do some more research before getting one. I would also like to find someone who has a Laser muffler that I can look at. I didn't see any vendor locations in the US.

Anyone running F1 mufflers? I have an rb20 in my 75 280 . It's going to be my dd when I get it running. I like the other mufflers mentioned on other threads but was looking for something that sounded more exotic. Not sure if the price difference is worth it. Don't know what one sounds like on the RB20. No cat is needed so just straight pipe back to the muffler. Looked at the Buddy club spec II but man that is loud. I would have to nurse it all the way to work. Links below to the sound on other cars and one of several web sites for F1 mufflers. http://www.laserexhausts.com/en/documents/218/laser-f1.html

You can go to the download section on the main page and get the RB FSM. It will walk you through the diagnostics for ignition. It will also tell you what type of voltage you should be getting when the car is off or when it is running. One thing to you will need to be aware of is that the FSM has all the RB series engines documented and you will have to sift through looking for what pertains to the RB20. Also the pictures of the engine and some of the drawings really really really suck. so just look at the diagnostic flow chart to help you determine if what you are reading is normal. Hope this helps. It helped me and I don't know jack about the RB20. I do now.

Holy crap, my son would have a field day with this forum. (240SX with SR20) I might get him to sign on and flame everyone on the site. He needs someplace to vent since I won’t buy him a totally built skyline. What a waste of time reading all that useless miss information. I like Honda as a commuter car but that’s where I draw the line. Sounds like most of the guys were probably in high school and haven’t spent much time under the hood. Hondas are very popular with high school kids. They latch onto the VTEC part and think that’s it.

I just got my first Z in March this year. I wanted one since 1978 when I first saw one go by my house. I was in 7th grade so I had to wait. During collage, I went to a used car lot in Tampa and looked at one. When I sat in the car, I found out the the dealer used black shoe polish on the interior to make it look newer. Got it all over me. Did't get the car. Then at the end of last year my truck of 275k miles coughed up a timing chain and I needed something to use for a DD. My wife expected me to get something new of the car lot. I come home with at 32 year old car. 1975 280z with very little rust. very sweet. Because Z's are so cool looking, she decided that she liked it. Now I'm doing a swap. I thought I knew something about cars until now. When I get done, I might know a little more. I should have bought one a long time ago. Been missing out until now.

I had the 4.2 and it was nothing but problems. Always leaking oil. It had a lot of power at the low end but they don't rev very high. Also, I noticed that the factory spec for compression on this engine allows for as much as 20 PSI difference from one piston to the other which explains all the pinging I got on hot days. Another thing is that it gets bad blow by when the mileage starts getting above 80k. The oil scrapers wear out and you start burning a lot of oil. My oil was black in just a couple hundred miles. I know that you are talking about the 4.0 but I would guess that the same engineering went into that engine also. Just a heads up.

This is my 75 280z before I started the swap. The L28 ran fine but I could not resist the RB swap.

Running a smaller RB20DET. This is my setup. 2" Pipe. Can't remember the size of the intercooler right off. When I get home from work, I will post the size. I ran a double pass radiator with electric fan. This lets me run the intercooler piping across the front of the radiator. More room for the air filter when I get one.

Didn't get it. I am going to update my email profile. You can send me a private message for payment details.

Another idea is to have someone step on the gas. When it starts to die, spray some starter fluid in the intake, If the engine revs, then it is not too rich. It is lean.

Thanks. This gives me some places to go. I have a local shop that may be able to make one. Also, I did find something at Courtesy nissan that might work also. There out of stock but the machine shop can use the picture to see how it is made.

Is there a place I can go the get the part number. That would be great. I will start looking for it when I get of work tonight. Thanks for the info.

So I put a Sard regulator in the weekend. Does anything need to be done with the stock regulator on the RB20. Looks like it can't be removed. Does it stay where it is. I plan on putting in GTR 444cc injectors and I don't know if the stock regulator is going to cause some issues.

Any takers on this. I know that it's not a very hard question. This is the only place I can think of to get someone's help. None of the threads on this forum have any pics I can use as a ref. Only the Factory Manual. Pictures in the manual are horrible.

Still having a problem with this. I noticed in other threads on this forum, some people have 10 ohm resistors between the Injector and the ECU. If the RB20 comes with a connector for the Dropping resistor, then why is it so hard to find the connector and why doesn't it match the Factory manual. This is what the manual shows. My previous request shows something else. Here is what other people have posted. Totally confused.

I am almost there. The motor turns over. My fuel pump is working. I have 12v at the injectors. I have correct voltage at the Cam angle sensor. The injectors won't open. I was looking for my dropping resistor pack and could not locate it. I'm using the rb20 FSM to trouble shoot. Very straight forward until I got to the dropping resistors. I can't find mine. Can someone please help me locate them. The picture in the manual is horrible. This is what I have but it only has two wires and measures .5 ohms across the pins. The manual calls for something that has 7 wires and has 5 ohms across them. I am not asking for someone to fix my problem. I want to do that myself. I just need a little push on this part. Thanks

Here is another picture of what I do have.

I was looking for my Dropping resistor and I don't think the engine came with on. The Factory Manual shows a picture of one but it's not very clear. See. I got this drawing from another forum but I don't see anything like this. I have something that has two wires going to it and the part number does not show up on any query. A15-000J01. Can someone help me . Send a picture or tell me what connector it should be on. Im sure that it is missing but don't know what it looks like. I have looked at every thread on this forum and can't find a picture. Thanks

Dude, This is great. I am doing a swap and was checking all my lights. I noticed that the turn signals were not working and was thinking that it was going to be a real pain trying to trace the wires. I do have my center console out and the hazard is disconnected. This is going to same me a lot of time. Thanks

75 280z. Just got it in the spring. Was going to be my daily while if fix the timing chain that my toyota truck coughed up one night. Got the Z home and it started have electrical problems. Saw all the relays and wires running all over the place and decided to swap with RB20. Now I have the new engine in and getting very close to starting it up. Thought it was just a drop in according to some people. The list is long for modes and parts needed to get this thing in right. I will start another thread on all the things I needed to do later. Just want to get this thing started.

I tried to go the the links and still I get an error This is the error message that I get. " chrism, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons: Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system? If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation. " This forum sucks. Who would want to be a member not knowing what pages can be view and what pages can not be view. It teases you and then it aggravates you. Can you cut and paste the picutes into this thread. If you need to, just use Microsoft paint to capture the images.