chrism

Put my turn signals in the center console. I put the break light on the right and turns on the left. I also used LED's instead of the original light bulbs. You can get them at the auto store.

no, the blue s13 is my sons car... nissan family haha

i have a .86 for sale.... top end is sooo much better

Looks awesome. Your gonna be happy with the RB20. My Z is a DD and I drive about 40 miles to work. Currently getting around 32 MPG on the highway with a stock setup. Average speed 70 MPH.

Been driving for a long time but never was able to get as good as this fellow. How long did it take him to master this one? http://s191.photobucket.com/albums/z167/chrisrmoniz/?action=view&current=maestro-de-la-grua-elRellano.flv

Not to go away from the topic but isn't that Mark Ralston's car on the EBAY add. Is a two row the same as a double pass?

My Ebrake sucks x 10 to the 100.

Put the relay back in and have someone turn the ignition to the on position but not start. See if you can hear the relay click on. If not it could be the oil pressure switch.

Pressure switch will enable fuel pump relay at same time start switch is on. If the oil pressure switch wire is not connected to fuel pump relay, the relay will not energize and the car will not start. Also, you will not get voltage to the injectors because the fuel pump 12v source is connected to one side of the dropping resistor that goes to the injectors. This is what I can see looking at the wire diagram.

Just subscribed. I feel sorry for guys in Canada. Must be the PST and GST taxes.

Looks great man. I have an RB20 that I want to do the same thing to. I'm going to upgrade some other things first and make sure it's running good before changing out the intake. I believe in change a little at one time. If something goes wrong, it won't take much to figure it out.

That means that you are no longer providing power from the fuel pump circuit to the injectors on the dropping resistor side. Try connecting power to the dropping resistor. Not sure what color the wire is because I sold my L28 and I don't have the FSM in front of me right now. If you have two dropping resistors they both need to have 12v applied to them. You can wire directly to the battery.

Isn’t Florida a no-fault state? You will probable have to take care of your car and she will have to take care of her car. Was a ticket issued?

You’re lucky to be alive. I lived in Boca for awhile and got tired of giant led sleds with half blind retired drivers running me of the road. The Florida gold coast has to have the highest concentration of the nation’s worst drivers. I have seen some duzzies. When I moved to Tampa, I got hit three times within three months. The funny thing is that they all had the same insurance company. The same adjuster looked at my car each time. I would tell him what I was going to spend the money on and it wasn’t the piece of crap I was driving. He would laugh because he remembered me and the damage from the previous wrecks. Each time was a dinner at some fancy restaurant that I normally could not afford. I would thank him for the meal when he cut the check.

Do you have 12v on the fuel pump side of the dropping resistor. Does the fuel pump turn on when you turn on the key? I see in the wire diagram that the dropping resistor is part of the fuel pump circuit. If the fuel pump is not turning on then the injectors will not get 12 volts on the dropping resistor side. If the fuel pump relay is not working that could cause this problem. If you have an oil pressure switch problem, It will not allow the fuel pump relay to turn on and that could be another source to the problem. You should be getting 12v on at least one side of the injector. Did you say that you had no power on both wires to each injector or just to the ECU side of the injector?

Looks to high on the block to be the alternate dipstick location. My RB20 has a knockout for the rear dipstick and it is located about an inch from the bottom of the block. No threads, just a press fit.

I only have one son. My wife and I had considered adoption in the past but at the time, here sister was going to have 4 children taken from her by the state for reasons I won’t get into here. We were faced with the possibility of having to take on one or two of them. As you can imagine, this led to some very serious discussions and soul searching. The idea of adoption went from possibility to probability. Well it didn’t happen but it was a good eye opener. We were just not ready for such a commitment. However if you look back a couple thousand years, a man named Joseph adopted a son who he named Jesus. Where would we be if Joseph did not have the strength to raise his adopted son? You would be giving someone a chance to do great things in life. I’m all for adoption and salute anyone who has the ability to do it.

Stony, Should be fine for the Oil sending unit. What's the deal with the original sending unit.

Was that the owner or the tuner. BWHAHAHAHAHAH

Does anyone know if there is a aftermarket speedometer cable extension for the 75 280z. Or a cable that is 5/8" x 18" thread. I'm installing a Auto meter Phantom speedometer and also setting the gauge forward in the dash so I don't have to look down a hole to see it. I could bring the stock cable in through the trans tunnel up close to the firewall but before doing that, I would rather get an extension. Around 5 to 6 inches or so. Search on this site comes up with nothing and I don't see anything from doing a google search. Any ideas. Thanks

My wife got me a big pack of stogies. How cool is that. Also started replacing the tach and speedo guages.

what is so hard about replacing a couple of caps and a transistor? I’m not sure I want to have a device in the car that needs the batteries replaced every so often. I wouldn’t go as far as testing it on an O-scope. Just replace the caps and transistor (shot gun). If it doesn’t work then go for the new movement. These parts are easy to get.

Found this link on classiczcars. I'm going to try this with my clock. http://classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23622&d=1212753644

Shifter is center. It has no problem going into first, third, or fifth. I drive over speed bumps with no problems. The oil pan has plenty of clearance which is more than I can say for my exhaust. It sits just a bit low when going past the axel. Other than that, you should have no problems. There is still room to keep the A/C Pump. This first picture you get an idea of how far from the ground the oil pan is. Also you will notice that there is room to drop the pan and get it out without having to raise the motor. This next pic shows that there is room for the AC Pump mounting bracket behind the cross member. I'm not running the AC but man you can bet it aint gonna be long. NC is burning up. Back on the topic of RB swap kits. I think there are too many options for any type of swap kit other than bone stock. Even with that, everyone is going to want to put in the intercooler. there are may ways to do that. Also, the stock radiator is going to have problems as the RB's have both hoses on the passenger side. That leads to many radiator options.