chrism

That's how I clear my sinuses in the morning . I use the sink to stop my slide.

So you wired 12v through a switch to the pump and it turned on. That eliminates any ground issues from the pump . Still doesn't eliminate the AFM or the ECU. Check for a ground signal coming from the ECU. Get the ECU pinout and look for the fuel pump signal. When the ECU is powered up just before starting the car, you should get a short to ground on that wire. That will ground the relay and send power to the pump. If not, you have a problem with the ECU. If you do have ground, then check the connection to the relay. That connection should also get ground when the ECU is powered up. If it doesn't, then you have a bad connection from the ECU to the pump relay. Your gonna get tired of that pump switch after awhile. Just think, if you get it running right, you'll have bragging rights. My pressure is released when the engine is turned off after several minutes also. I think that is normal.

Post a picture of that when your done.

I think the idiot farm had a couple get over the fence

240swapped, You got that thing running. I noticed on another thread that the AFM can cause the fuel pump to not turn on if it is not work propely. Just another thing to look at.

Mack made my mounts and they place the RB20 right where it needed to go. Solved lots of problems and gave me more room infront of the motor.

What kind of motor is it? There are FSM manuals in the download section that show the intake and vacuum pipe locations. That should not change . AAC valve is used to allow air to get past the throttle plate when the car is cold and running rich. I'ts used by the ECU to controle idle speed. The FSM will explain it better.

I used the radio location for some gauges. Can't hear anything anyway. Running with Buddy Club spec II. It's a Phantom boost, fuel, and Pyro gauge set

You can get fuel in both electric or liquid. If you get electric, it can be in the car with you, otherwise it will have to be in the engine compartment. Or outside where you can see it from the windshield. Electric is very expensive though. You ca

With the ignition on, what are the voltages to each wire on the injector? If you are not getting a pulse, there has to be a bad connection someware. If all the injectors are not getting a pulse, look for the wire locations that are common. Like the dropping resistors .It has a single wire that connects both the injector dropping resistor and the fuel pump dropping resistor. When I look at the wire diagram for the 75z, the wire goes to the fuel pump and gets power when the pump is turned on. There are several connectors located between the fuel pump and the dropping resistors. If you have power at the fuel pump and none at the injector, you probably have a bad connection on that line.

When you say that you are getting no light shown when probing with tester, is this when the engine is cranking?. If the engine is not cranking over during the test, you should not be getting a light on the probe. Make sure that the ground wire on the probe is connected to one side of the injector and the other side of the probe (needle) is pushed into the other wire. This will place the tester in parallel with the injector.

Most relays will have a diagram on the cover.

Take a noid light and connect it to one side of the injector. Do not disconnect the injector. I just hold the point of the probe in the wire so it pokes through the insulation and makes contact with the wire inside. Then let someone else start the engine. If the light pulses when you turn the engine over, then electrical should be good. If it does not pulse, then start looking at the electrical. Last time I had this problem, the first thing I did was pull one injector loose and see if it would squirt into a small jar. Until you do this, it's hard to tell what is going on.

At the risk of sounding stupid. You got a belt on the water pump? I've made some stupid mistakes and that would be one of mine.

I have some GTR444 injectors top feed injectors that were used in the RB26. They are 1.3 ohms when measured. Usually the larger injectors are low impedance. The smaller injectors used in the RB20 (270cc) are high impedance. They are around 13 ohms. If you need to have a dropping resistor inline with the injectors then the injectors are low impedance. If you don't need the dropping resistor such as the RB20DET then the injectors are high impedance. Look at the schematic that comes with the RB26 and RB25 FSM it should show the dropping resistors in the circuit.

Chris Moniz Chrism My 75 280z Zebulon NC RB20DET swap includes, McKinney motor mounts, PRC double pass radiator with pull fan, Buddy Club Spec II exhaust, and modified drive shaft.

Awesome. The pics look great. Thanks for the advice Derek

I’ve seen some bedliner post in the past. Not surprised that they are holding up. You could use them as lumber racks and they would sill hold up.

It’s been awhile since someone posted a dash repair idea. I’ve seen several home remedies and was wondering how they’ve been holding up. Thought I would wait a while before doing my dash and see who had the best results. Some of the ideas look good but at the end of the post, someone else chimes in with a question about how well it will hold up or that they think it will look worse down the road. So, lets have it guys. Anyone having good results?

charcoal

Here you go. Mostly stock. . Used a Honda civic canister hiding under the flap next to master cylinder. Its very small and works great. Got it from the junk yard for 5 bucks. Took a while to figure out the intake. I didn’t want to give up room for the AC compressor or cut any holes in the radiator support. Radiator is PRC double pass with pull fan. Works great.

Found 3 of these Saab Sonnets in a local junk yard. Thinking about the RB20.

They came with the car when I got it. No markings on them so I don't know what brand they are. I'm gonna replace them next year after the big stimulus package is released. HAHAHA. On this one you can see a Buddy Club Spec II exhaust system. Not as loud as I thought it was gonna be. There's no offset with rims so they stick in too much giving it a narrow stance. Haven't picked new rims out yet but this thread is great for ideas.

Man, Wish I was there to see it. It's hard to work on a cars from thousands of miles away. As for the weak lifter. I used some slick50 hydraulic lifter restore to fix a problem in the past . The lifter was not building enough pressure to push the valve. That stuff work great. It goes in with the oil. Do that as a last ditch effort before taking the valve train apart. I would think you could see that problem with the compression test though. Good luck.

Sorry man, That is the only selling feature on the motor. I have several people looking at it now. If they don't get the motor, I'll drop you some mail and see what we can work out.