chrism

Thanks for the info.

ok, I am thinking about getting a wideban O2 tester. Mainly because all the tuner shops are booked until the end of the month. I have been trying to get the car into a shop for some time . What things should I consider when looking at wideban testers? Thanks

I tried that and my wife started raggin on me. Now I hide junk under the house and in the attic.

I was trying to find something around the house that I could use to mount some new gauges in the center console. I ran across an old GE dishwasher kick plate. Black plastic with the same texture as the center console. Works great for matching the dash. Thanks GE!! From This To This

Oops!! I can't type fast enough.

You should be able to hear or feel the injectors open and close when the coil is charged. I used a noid light to make sure one side of the injector connector was pulling low. The light should blink when trying to start the car. When you said that you switched wires from none working to working and the problem stayed with the physical injector 4 and 6 or the wire harness connector injector 4 and 6? I have used a 9 volt battery to test the injectors and I could hear the injector open and close.

I used Mckinney mounts on my motor and for 90 bucks, I had the drive shaft shortened by a guy that rebuilds driveshafts. There should be someone in your area that can do that. Save $300. Most swaps come with the injector harnace and the wires for all the sensors. It should also have the alternator and starter harness. If not, that is easy to adapt. Once you rewire a harnass, you will find that it isn't that hard and you can learn a lot in the process. Look at the number of wires Chris Rummel used to get his car running. Not many . Make sure you consider lead times for any item that you have custom made. That makes a big difference. Just like others have found, nothing drops into an S30 other than the original engine. There are always modifications needed (like motor mounts and a tran mount). I do like the McKinney mounts. They are heavy duty and the bushings are far better than the rubber bushings that came with the RB. They look good to. Some of the guys on this site found local shops to weld them a set and that should cut the cost in half if you don't care what they look like. If you or a friend can make you own then they won't cost much at all. Just my 2 cents.

Ditto. He keeps that up and it won't be long before someone clobbers him.

Check this out. :burnout: http://www.themathisens.com/videos/burnout.wmv

290184833211Check out this resistor on Ebay. Should work. You can send seller questions. I got my injectors and resistor from them. Works great and ships fast.

Do you think it might be a good idea to have a ref table that shows what minimum mods are needed to fit specific type engines in various cars. Examp: RB20DET in 1975 280z or s130 body. Need motor mounts, new water sending unit for water gauge, Tach adaptor. GTR Oil pan. Things like that. This would indicate the level of difficulty and help estimate cost for the type of swap you are interested in doing just to get the car to run under the new engine. Not to win races at the track.

You need to pull the panel. I had that same problem and found the linkage was bent. It was not allowing the lock and handle to work properly. There isn't much to it. Once you open it up you’re probably gonna say, ok that was easy.

Looks great. I'm getting ready to put in a buddy club spec II catback system. I'm gonna get the downpipe custom made. The tricky part for me will be getting past the tranny mount. It doesn't fit tight inside the tunnel like I want but we will see. Right now I'm running open header. I have to look through the gas mask to drive. I'll miss that queasy feeling when it's done. 'not'

When you get everything compiled. You may want to start a new thread and hopefully no one will reply to it. They should send you a message to add or make changes. All the sticky threads are cluttered up and it takes too long to read before finding what you are looking for. Lots of great info but too many side bar topics. Still much better than any other forum by far.

Hope mine sounds half that good when its done.

Does anything like this exist in the US. Would be nice to include it in my vacation plans for next year.

Hey, I think the two guys above are Darrel and Darrel of Darrle's fine tuning garage. They have a new sand blasting and sea foam method of tuning the engine. They promise to get your car running more gooder fastley.

I poured water down the carb on my old jeep to get rid of carbon, I should have used sand. That would have fixed if for sure.

I can think of a half dozen people in my neck of the woods that would do something like this. If it is a joke, its a good one.

OOPS!! My bad. If a moderator wants to move the thread then do so.

You have to read this. I can't believe someone would do this to another persons car. http://www.audiforums.com/m_693578/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm#693578

Still working on my Z. When I get it road worthy, it's going to replace my current DD. That would be an old Toyota pickup with 275k miles. A bent valve that is still holding up after 10k miles. No heat or AC. Driver seat is so worn out that I am now sitting on springs. Cracked windshield. The lens cover on the dome light was so dry rotted it crumbled. The exhaust is loose and makes a lot of noise. I have to turn the darn thing off just to place an order at the drive in. Other than a big dent on the rear driver side, there is no rust. The clutch pedal makes a god-awful noise when I engage the clutch. I hope it will stay together until the Z is ready. I don’t care if there are fumes. It’s a far cry from the road hazard I’m driving now.

Some of those look like flashers for your turn signal and hazard lamp.

We are praying for all you guys on the west coast. Keep safe.

Thanks Dave.