chrism

Never mind about the fuel regulator. I still would like to find a small canister to replace the original one that came with the L28. The canister is huge. If someone knows of a good replacement canister, please let me know.

I just put an RB20DET in my 75 280z. Starting to hook everything up. There is no room for the original canister because I am running FMI piping through that area on the passenger side. I also have a double pass radiator with both hoses on the passenger side. Also, the fuel regulator that came with the car is massive. On the other side, I have the MAF and air intake along with more FMI piping . Not much room there either. I did not get a clip with this swap so does anyone know of a smaller canister and fuel regulator that will work with this engine. Any suggestions.

Can someone send me the pictures. I registered for this forum but I am blocked from looking at the pictures. Thanks

When I lived in Boca Raton FL, (Mouth of the rat) the people there were very rude, insane, always in a hurry, pissed about god knows what and had a great big massive chip on there shoulders. People would flip me off at stop lights while I was waiting for the light to change. When I moved to North Carolina, all that insanity stopped. Most of the people that I run into are very down to earth. They may talk funny but that does not make then “IGNENTâ€. This state has some of the best medical and engineering schools around, very mild weather, and most importantly, rust friendly to cars. Cha Ching. That’s my two cents.

Mark, Love the car. What impresses me the most is that you did not rice out the car. It has very clean lines and is not over done. Congrats. Gives me ideas for mine. I think when enough people see the cars that have been posted on Hybridz out on the streets, they will become more popular. Most people are not aware that these cars are still very stylish and capable of great performance. Fun to drive. My son has a 240 with the SR20 red top. He loves his car but I can tell that he can’t wait to get his hands on my RB-Z when it is running and show it to his friends in school.

Davyz Welcome to NC. I moved to Raleigh from Florida back in 85 and have loved living here. I would not want to live anywhere else. One thing that I noticed is that the cars don’t rust as fast here. I had a CJ7 for 20 years and never had to worry about rust. Now I have a 280Z that I bought from someone in Charlotte. It has very little rust on it. I now live in Zebulon east of Raleigh and I am in the middle of doing a swap. Putting in an RB20.

Got two of them for you. One is mine and another is a good friend of mine working in a garage. When I was in high school rebuilding a lawn mower engine in Agg shop. I forgot to tighten the head bolts. My teacher tried to start up to motor and it started shooting fire out the sides. Scared the heck out of him and man was he pissed at me. The other one was my friend who was listening to a complaint from an old lady who said that her car was not running very well. It had very little horsepower and the engine would not rev up. He asked her how often she changed the oil. She said that she was very careful to make sure that she added a qrt every week. WOW.

The diodes that are mentioned by others in this thread should be fine. They regulate current. A couple of other type of diodes that I forgot to mention are found in your garage door opener. They are the sensors at to bottom that keep the door from closing on your car if it were in the way of the door coming down. One of them is a LED (Light Emitting Diode) and the other is a photo diode. You know what the LED is. The photo diode has a small face on it and takes in light. The more light that is exposed to the face, the more voltage the photo diode puts out. It is usually has a 12v input. The LED is 5 volts. Now you know about all Diodes.

Zener diodes regulate Voltage Regulator diodes regulate current Both are designed to allow current to flow in one direction once the PN junction has been biased . Usually around 1.7 to about 6 volts. The idea is to make sure that no current flows in the wrong direction while the alternator is running. Also when the car is turned off, the alternator is still putting out current for a small amount of time. This reverse current could flow back through the system and cause damage to sensitive devices such as the ECU. This would explain the fluttering of the AMP meter as small amounts of current are allowed to flow in two directions with out the diode inline with the regulator. Keep in mind that the regulator does not control direction of current but just how much is needed from the alternator when things like turning on the lights or radio occure. This would require more power from the alternator to continue running the car and handel the increased demand from the radio or lights. Other diodes are the Schottky Diode used for high frequency and fast switching applications. Definitley not used in a car. PIN diodes when reversed act like nearly constant capacitors, Step recovery diodes, high frequency, Tunnel diodes have negative resistance and are used in microwave applications. Now you are all Diode experts.

Forgot to answer 2nd question. The trans stick is dead center of the hole. Could not be any better.

I have about 1.5 inches between the engine and the firewall. Enough room to run the engine loom and AC line along with the Throttle cable. The drive shaft goes all the way in but you will have to cut of the thin round shaft cover on the RB trans. It looks like a thin metel cup over the end. Also, if you do use the RB, you can move the dip stick to the back of the engine for the rear sump pan. There is a knock out hole towards the back. Very hard to find so clean the motor in that area and you should find it. Once you knock it out. Pull the dip stick tub out of the front and swap it with the rear plug. Otherwise you will have the same problem I currently have. How to knock out the plug while the engine is in the bay. I did not have to cut the original trans mounts so if I should decide to put the L28 back in, no problem.

I am currently putting an RB20DET in my 75 280Z. This may not help you but I will let you know what issues I had to overcome. The driveshaft is splined and will fit into the transmission that comes with the RB20DET swap and the RB20DET mounts will line up with the existing mounts on the frame. What I noticed with my 280Z and maybe you won't have this problem with the 240z but ,if you use the RB20DET motor mounts, the RB20 will go in 2 inches forward and sit a little bit high. This will leave the drive shaft about half way out of the transmission and that isn’t good. Also, your shifter will be forward about 1 to 1.5 inches. You might be able to shift the car but if you have a center dash, you can kiss that good by. The L28 stick shift is bent in a way that will allow for the transmission to sit forward but that is not what is going back in. You will have to us the shifter from the RB20 and that one is not bent. Also, the engine sitting forward by a couple of inches leaves less room for piping the radiator and an intercooler along with making the MAF unit very tight. If you don't want AC in your car, you might be ok with fitting the MAF and filter. The stock radiator has the upper hose on the opposite side of where the RB20 hose connects. This means that you will have to run that hose across to the other side to connect it. Also, The z has one access hole on each side of the radiator support that you can run Intercooler piping to. Because the intake routs across the top of RB20 to the driver side, you will have to route yet another pipe back across the front of the engine to take advantage of the access hole on the passenger side. For a small amount of money compared to the headaches, get some motor mounts made and do not listen to anyone who says that it will just drop in. I also had a double pass radiator made with both hose outlets on the passenger side along with an electric fan and harness . This cleans up the piping a bit and gives you room to run piping for a FMI. Also this leave room for the MAF and filter without taking out the AC compressor. Another thing that I did was use the Throttle cable from an RB20DET and connect it to the old solid linkage on the firewall so that I would not have to screw around with the gas peddle inside. Depending on what your budget is, you can get an RB20DET in cheap but it will be clunky. Or you can spend around 1k and get some custom parts to make the headaches go away. All of my ideas came from this forum. There is a lot of great advice if you dig a little bit.

What Temp does the oven have to maintain for powder coating?

I would be happy if any of the lights came on in my car after I get the swap done. If I only have to troubleshoot lightbulbs, that would be fine with me.

I had a dream that I woke up and went to turn the light on. The light would not come on and that was because I was not awake. So then I continued to dream that I woke up and went to turn on the light. It still would not come on because I was still not awake. After about 5 iterations of this insanity, I started to doubt that I was awake and when the light did come on, my wife thought that I was totally insane. Which I am anyways. This type of dream has happened to me two times in my life and I could to without another one.

You could try dragdriftautox.com They had my relays in stock.

Your are lucky that you could get in touch with someone from UPS. If they don't think that you have a problem, you will only be able to get answering machines. No real person will ever answer the phone.

The letter I is the ECU. I could print these pictures out and take them down the the NISSAN dealeship. They might be able to cross ref the parts. Thanks

I called them and complained. They said that if there are any parts aside from the engine, trans, turbo, and intake it was extra and was not included. I told them that a full swap means that there are enough parts included to get the engine to start and make the car move forward; they said that the relays were not needed. I told them that the car will not start with out them. They replied that most people get there cars running with out them. I told them that they were on crack. We are miles apart so I can't run down to the shop and make everyone’s day a living nightmare. Thats my normal mode of operation when someone jacks me over the Coles.

You are the Man. I tried to get nissan fast working on my computer and I could not get it to download. I already have Azureus downloaded but still does not help. Keep looking. Thanks

Does anyone know what the part number is for the two relays located next to the ECU on the RB20 harness? I have decided to join the swap fray and noticed that they were missing. This was supposed to be a full swap. I guess that does not include relays. But then how does one verify that the engine runs ok before the 30 day warranty runs out. Don’t answer that. I should have used a microscope to look at the pictures online before getting the engine.

Does anyone know what the part number is for the two relays located next to the ECU on the RB20 harness? I have decided to join the swap fray and noticed that they were missing. This was supposed to be a full swap. I guess that does not include relays. But then how does one verify that the engine runs ok before the 30 day warranty runs out. Don’t answer that. I should have used a microscope to look at the pictures online before getting the engine.