s30kid

400hp is plenty for me for now. My issue is just as you stated, Fuel and timing control. I rebuilt my engine less then 6 months ago with parts of questionable quality, I proceeded to blow the head gasket 3 months ago due to preignition. And 2 days ago I believe I blew the ringlands/rings after turning to boost back up to 15. My engine is smoking like a train from the crankcase vent. Anyway, I have a motor lined up. Its a f54 block n47 head. New itm pistons .020 over with a hy35 turbo. With the n47 head the comp. Is in the 8's. And its not the best head by any means. So I plan to locate a p90, run the hy35, have the rotating assembly balanced and have the car fully tuned on the dyno at a shop here in reno. My plans are to have a reliable ~400hp L28 that won't blow in the next 6 months. I have read a lot about using quality rings and pistons, are itm pistons a good replacement or should I look into replacing them?

hello Hybridz, I have been doin alot of research about building an l28et. I have blown my l28et about 4 times now in the past year and ive decided to go with forged internals and a properly built engine instead of junkyard motors. The plan is to have f54 block with p90 head forged ka24 pistons (89mm) arp head studs (already have) hy35 turbo balanced crank, rods, pistons lots of machine work on the head porting etc. megasquirt (already have) ported intake (already have) fmic (already have) 440cc injectors (already have) meth injection I heard stock rods can handle the power so should I buy forged rods? My question is, would boring the f54 block to 89mm be too much? would the block be weak at that point? I have also ran the L enginge calculator and with l28 rods, p90 head, and ka24 pistons, the comp. ratio is about 6.4:1 with 4.1mm deck clearance. Is that too low? If I were to run 240z rods the comp. ratio is 7.7:1 with 1.3mm deck clearance. which is better? Any other input would be great too. I also have a thread in the wanted section if anyone has parts please message me.

hello hybridz Im looking for another f54 p90 combo in driving distance of Reno NV. I blew my motor today and I need a swap ASAP. I would prefer a known good motor that was recently rebuilt with full internals and ran on megasquirt but a stock motor will do.

Still looking..

I already tried flipping the rack, The steering is reversed if you flip the rack..

Im in the market for a Right Hand Drive steering rack for my 280z. I do not know if the 240-260-280 racks are the same but if they are ill take whichever one.

I just had a quick question. I just installed a walbro 255 from summit racing that is rated up to 60psi along with a pallnet 11mm o-ring fuel rail and a fuelab boost reference pressure regulator. I have the idle pressure set to 40psi. At 15psi of boost I should be seeing 55psi of fuel correct? Anyway I'm seeing 60 psi on my gauge under boost and at cruising speed the needle is going crazy around 45psi. But under boost the neelde is stable. Is this okay or should I be concerned?

I believe its pin #1 on the 280z ecu harness connector. Anyway if you wire that pin to the pin on Megasquirt for the rpm signal it works perfectly however you dont get ignition tuning. You also need to go into Tunerstudio and run it as fuel only. It works well if your not running more then 8psi, Anything over and you really should run megasquirt for timing.

For the record Im running 12 ish PSI of boost with 10* timing TDC with a locked dizzy, megasquirt for fuel, 440cc injectors and walbor 255 fuel pump. As long as you dont lean out the car should run good.

I bought a ITM full timing set. Came with both gears, tensioner, chain and guides. When I put it all together and went to install the timing cover the chain guides hit the timing cover and I had to modify the guides with a grinder to fit.

BE CAREFUL WITH TURBO-ING A STOCK IGNITION AND FUEL SETUP. I made this mistake last year. "I'll just run low boost for now until I get my megadquirt setup" I blew my motor up within a week. However I did not have a aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. You may be able to get away with it but be careful. I would lock the mechanical advance in the dizzy and set it to 10° tdc. That gives you 15° on boost and you should be safe there. Just dont lean out.

20 degrees at idle

If you port the n47 correctly it flows amazing. You loose low end torque but with a trubo you gain high rpm power. I don't have dyno sheets to prove it. I'm just going off of how far the car pushes me into the seat. Anyway. The timing. Im running stock ignition for now because my megasquirt was having issues with the ignition. Locked the mechanical advance and set the timing to around 20.

Alright guys Ive got an interesting question to ask. Can 15psi of boost be the reason why I blew my head gasket? First off my setup was like this: Fully rebuilt in november of 2014 F54 block, stock rotating assembly n47 head, liners removed, exhaust ported and polished, polished combustion chambers and new valvetrain 440 cc supra injectors stock 83 turbo 2.5" downpipe ported intake manifold and 60mm throttle body megasquirt 2 3.57 mishimoto 3" fmic 2.5" IC piping greddy blow off valve STOCK HEAD BOLTS. I was not low on coolant and my water pump is still good. I was running 10 psi for about a month and the car ran great never had any problems so I increased it to 15psi and for 2 days the car was amazing. Smoked corvettes and camaros All day! I decided to go out for a drive-n-tune. As I was entering the freeway I ran the car 1st-4th on 15psi shifting around 5500. once I let out of the gas the car was stumbling all over itself and so I limped it to a friends house where we tore the car apart and found the blown head gasket and ultimately the cracked head. I believe there are 2 reasons as to why I blew the geadgasket. 1.) The head gasket itself was cheap and came in a "full gasket and rebuild" kit. 2.) I reused the stock headbolts during the rebuild. So I think that with that much boost the head was floating and eventualy blew out. Im wondering what all of you guys think and will it happen again? Now im running a stock n47 head with a felpro head gasket and ARP Head studs

still looking

Well right now Im searching everywhere for a turbo distributor and shaft. Im going to swap over to the CAS in the dizzy and not run the 36-1 wheel.

Well yesterday I tore the 280z distributor apart and jb welded the mechanical advanse so that it doesnt work. I also pulled out the oil pump and reset the oil/distributor shaft so that the rotor would point to the number 1 cylinder on TDC. I then Reset the hall sensor and made sure that it was dead center. I got the car running and it was running great. The car would only loose sync at 5500 rpm under boost which was fine with me because my rev limiter is set to 5700. Well today I took the car out for a drive and I just so happen to be datalogging. The car was running the same as last night but when I ran it through 1st and 2nd it had sync loss around 4500 rpm. When the sync loss hit the car also had a very loud backfire. After that the sync loss was happening at 3500 rpm. Yesterday I checked the timing on the motor and it was about 7 degrees but in megasquirt it was set to 10 degrees. And Still, no matter what I set The Tooth #1 Angle(deg BTDC) to The timing will not Match up. Here is the datalog from today. New folder.rar

Sorry but I need the drive shaft for the distributor as well

The specs for the sensor are .040 or closer. I just took the car for a ride after adjusting the sensor forward, back, left to right until I got it centered on the number 6 tooth before the missing tooth. But the car runs worse now. Now the sync loss is happening around 3500 rpm. Also I see in my datalog that I got a voltage spike to about 21v, But nothing is fried in the wiring I think it was a glitch. Ive attached a datalog file as well as a msq of my tune. New folder.rar

Alos using my feeler gauges I have about a .020 gap from the sensor to the trigger wheel

well I just found out why I was loosing sync at idle... The bolt that holds my sensor came loose. And at idle there is a lot of vibration. Anyway that does not fix the issue of higher rpm, that problem still exists.

No you cannot, only with a basic trigger setup like the 280zx dizzy. I have to adjust the Tooth #1 angle (beg BTDC) until the timing in megasquirt matches the timing on the timing light, however no matter what I set that number too the timing on the engine and timing in megasquirt are always about 3 degrees off.

Alright, The problem is getting worse and its to the point where if I let it idle the car will just loose sync until it dies. I set the car to tdc and the distributor rotor is pointing in between the #1 and #5 posts on the cap. I looked over my datalogs and it says I have sync loss reason #2 That means that the missing tooth is at the wrong position, But every time I set my car to tdc and check the sensor it is dead center on the #6 tooth on the wheel before the missing tooth.. Can the rotor being in the wrong position cause this problem? I have been looking for a 280zx turbo distributor because at this point Im done. I have taken the car to multiple performance shops, started multiple forums about this trigger wheel setup and the problem remains. I don't know what to do and I am extremely stressed out.

Im looking for a 280zx turbo distributor with cas sensor and the distributor drive shaft for my turbo 280z. Anyone near Reno NV if not how much for shipping?

Alright Here Is a compressed file including data log of a 5 minute drive where the car lost sync about 132 times, a tooth log of my just at idle in my driveway and my msq. In the msq I have the tooth set to 45 mainly because I forgot to set it back to 50. For the record the log files are from yesterday and the msq is the latest autosave from today around 7pm. Right before I wrote this I went and re-routed all the wires away from anything that might cause noise, and mounted the ground to the Megasquirt ground. I also enabled noise filtering that you can see in the msq. I went for a drive and the car drove well and never lost sync until I did a pull in fist gear, as soon as I reached about 5psi at maybe 4500 rpm or so the car stuttered and the sync counter counted about 30 times within that few seconds, however other then that the car ran great. It only looses sync in 1st gear under boost. It didnt do it in 2nd or 3rd. Data logs and MSQ.rar