s30kid

I'm looking to install this fuel rail - (http://www.coldfusioncnc.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=96&Itemid=178) I don't know much about fuel injection. Just that you need the right amount of pressure and gas to make the injectors fire. 36 psi My question is, What pressure regulator should I get? Because from my understanding everyone who installs one of these puts a regulator at the back near the firewall and that its necessary to have. I'm installing this on my stock 1977 280z.

Yes, the AFM is correct. Its a 76 AFM I bought right here on hybrid z. It works great, it does have the fuel pump switch inside and it works. I took a detailed look at my engine bay. Looked for all the cracked or missing smog hoses, looked at all the connections on the wiring harness as well as some poorly done wiring around the engine. I know that there are 2 hoses that connect to the back of the intake that go around the back of the engine to where the fusable links are located that need to be replaced. all the contacts need to be deep cleaned. And some wires going to the distributor and coil area are in need of replacing and making sure they are connected to the correct locations. ill take pictures tomorrow of the wires and hoses. take a trip to autozone for parts and wire connection cleaner. Ill keep updating.

calpoly-z, you asked why the car hadn't been running in two months. The answer is I got my Z about 4 years ago from a friends junk yard. I'm not sure how long the car sat at the junk yard, but it was the junk yard owners car with the typical "ran when stored" background. When I got a hold of it, it sat in a garage where I casually tinkered with it when I had the time. Over the past few years I cured all the cancer, Pulled out all the dents, Sanded, Bondo, Primer, Paint. The paint is only 7 months old. Painted it myself, no crappy half-a**ed 1day paint shop. I got new rims and tires, And new radiator. Also I needed a EFI wiring harness so I bought one off of ebay that came with the ECU. Then I got my license and needed a car so I started the engine work. I Flushed out all the fuel lines, Replaced all the Rubber fuel line, New Engine Oil, Coolant, Plug Wires, and spark plugs. Started the car and it ran with a slight idle problem, But my AFM was shot so that was the partial cause. Also the hoses on my Fuel injectors themselves were leaking. Pretty badly too. That was the only thing keeping me from registering it and driving it. So I set aside a day to pull the whole Fuel rail off and replace the hoses plus make sure the metal lines weren't clogged, Clean the injectors from any gunk stuck in them. When I put it all back together, That's when the car stopped running. Or stopped holding idle. Along with the engine work i'm re-doing my interior, cleaning it up, repainting parts. New carpet, headliner, front seats and recovered back seat still to come. This car is going to be my Hopped up daily driver, but until then i'd like it if it just drove.

Ill go down to autozone and pepboys and see what they have. After I install it am I looking for 35psi while cranking the motor or after a few cranks?

The inline fuel pressure gauges at autozone only go to 15. Id have to get it online

yes but is 15 psi enough? I thought I needed 45 psi.

I do not have a pressure gauge yet when I get one ill check though.

They are not clogged. About a month ago I took them all out and did what the man at Pepboys told me to do witch was, soak them in carburetor cleaner and really clean them out. Then take a 7 volt power source and an old injector plug. Hook it up to a temporary button so that when you press the button the injector clicks open and when you release it closes. I cleaned them out and made sure they sprayed before putting them back on the car.

When the injectors get power they click. So what could it be?

The Tach Works. The fuel pump works. When I start the car with the inlet line off, gas comes out. I have spark. Brand new Plugs, Wires and Coil. I Think that the Injectors are shot. Me and a family friend whose a mechanic (not for Datsun though..) Put a tester light on the Injector plugs and it light up when we cranked the motor.

Again, could it be the cold start?

The fuel pressure gauges only go up to 15 psi at autozone. Isn't there supposed to be 35 in the rail?

I'm Pretty sure. And the fuel injectors spray. I pulled them out and cleaned them about a month ago. I also replaced all the hoses on the injectors. The fuel goes in, and if I pull the return hose it comes out. But when I try and start the car it starts for 1 second then dies. Then doesn't start again. Unless I use the starting fluid. But if I stop spraying the fluid in the intake it dies. I'm thinking maybe there isn't enough pressure to activate the injectors. If that's the case would it be the Fuel Pump? I also thought there might be a pressure leak somewhere but I don't see leaking gas.. I cleaned out the screen trap in the fuel pump, it wasn't very dirty. I have a copy of the FSM in a PDF file. I've tried the tests with that and still nothing. Could I have a bad Cold Start Valve?

I can hear the fuel pump come on.

The pump is good and the filter is new. The car stopped running after I pulled the fuel rail and replaced all the rubber hoses on the rail.

1977 280z 2+2 I have air and spark. no fuel. Which is weird because it ran perfectly fine 2 months ago.. If I continuously spray little shots of starter fluid into the intake it will idle. Im good with cars, just not.. great. Im only 17 and have lots to learn.

Im looking for someone who is in the Temecula area or would come down to come take a look at my car. I cant figure out why it wont run. I dont have nearly enough knowledge to figure it out myself nor the funds to pay a shop to fix it. I have a feeling that it's something very obvious and i just dont see it.. I need someone to look at it, and help me figure out what needs to be done to get it going. I'll pay for the gas it takes you to get here. Please help any additional information needed, just ask

Oh okay, thanks!

It looks like it goes to a gold disc with a hose coming out the bottom. I think it may be A/C related. My car has A/C

In the process of replacing hoses and vacuum lines I found this, (Big red circle) It's a cut hose coming from the fire wall on the passenger side. upon closer examination I found a piece of hose on the frame rail and it looks like it was from the fire wall. The little red circle is a male to male plastic hose connector. I was wondering if that hose connected to the one on the fire wall. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Alright, Update I just Put the ECU and Harness on, and now the car starts and dies. It does not hold idle. It didn't even start before. If I spray starting fluid in the intake while it's "running" and continue to spray small amounts into it I can get it to idle longer. So now if i set the timing correctly it should run correctly? Or at least run better?

I'm just going off what i've been told. I had a guy come over and look at the car. He said Defiantly too much pressure in the rail, Didn't need a gauge for that. And when he saw the new plugs were wet and black he said that the car was running lean and the timing was off. This man has been working at a Dealer Repair shop for more then 10 years. This is a serious post and I have no clue what to do/how to fix. I'm Going to put the new harness in and see if there are any improvements. I believe bad injectors could be the cause, That's actually the first thing that went through my head. And Fuel Pressure. If it is too high how do I lower it? Any other possibilities?

I've been trying to get my car running so I can Drive it to work every day. (I work 5 min away) I've come into some problems. Problem 1: AFM is Bad. In the market for a new one. Problem 2: Fuel injection wiring harness is chewed through, soldered/taped back together. Problem 3: Possible blown ECU. Problem 4: Fuel injectors are DUMPING fuel into cylinders (but not stuck open) causing wet spark plugs and flooding. (Car doesn't start) Problem 5: WAY TOO MUCH PRESSURE IN FUEL RAIL!!! (That's what makes me think I have a blown ECU. Injectors not firing correctly?) Problem 6: Brand new spark plugs are caked with black. Running to lean I suppose? Solution 1: I have A new ECU and Full harness sitting in my room. (ebay) Solution 2: Next pay check I'm driving down to MSA to pick up a new AFM. That or order a $200 one off ebay Solution 3: New Ignition Coil (autozone) Facts 1. I have spark 2. I have Gas 3. I pulled the spark plugs, Let the cylinders dry out over a few days. Sprayed starter fluid in the intake, car started then died seconds later. Plugs were wet after that. So, how do I get this thing going? Am I missing something? do I just need a tune up on the timing and throttle body etc. Why do I have so much pressure in the rail? I pilled the inlet hose where the fuel filter is and it shot 10 feet out. Normally it would spray just a little and go away. Will this new ECU and Harness (which are both in great shape) Solve my fuel problem? I'm running out of ideas and knowledge. I'm... Running out of hope really. Every time I fix it something else goes wrong. Please, any solutions, ideas, helpful information is greatly appreciated. If Any other information is needed just ask and i'll go look.

Trust me, mines junk. I had two bad AFMs. One with bad circuitry, one with good circuity and a dented case jamming the flap. So I took the good circuitry and mounted it in the good case. Needles to say it didn't work. So now I need a new one and I need one bad. I just Bought a "new" ECU and Harness because mine was blown and the harness was chewed up. So with the new harness I need a new AFM to go with it so I dont short out the new (To me) ECU.

Oh okay, My dad calls it the MAF so I just use the terminology that I knew personally. But they will work together?