s30kid

My 77 280z hazard lights don't work. But my blinkers do. I just replaced the blinker flasher solenoid that was under the driver side dash above the steering column and my left and right blinkers work but no hazard lights. I was wondering if there was a seperate solenoid or relay for the hazard lights and where it is located at.

What do you guys think about this. I was thinking about making this out of carbon fiber and some adjustable links. In the pictures it shows that the wing does not fit the whole car, I was thinking about making it go all the way to the edge of the body.

http://www.sunpro.com/product_detail.php?pid=16374 This is a link to the exact gauge

I have a Oil pressure gauge lying around in my garage and want to install it in my Z The gauge is not electric, it has a little hose coming out from the back. Where would I mount the oil feed line to? The instructions said to mount the line to a threaded oil fitting on the block. I was wondering where is a good spot to get the oil form? The car is a stock 280z with the fuel injected L28

I need a working hazard switch for my 1977 280z. my hazard lights don't work and my blinkers used to work but not anymore and i traced it to the switch.

So just so I understand, I should pull the hoses off of the valve from the engine bay. One hose goes to a fitting towards the back of the block, and the other goes to the front of the block where the radiator is connected (I think). So just take hose plugs and plug them both off , as well as the exposed hose connectors on the firewall?

I was wondering how to bypass the heater control valve completely so that my floor Isn't soaking wet when I try to test my car for registration. The other day I took my car for a quick drive around the block, when I got back and shut the car off I heard water leaking and I looked around and noticed a huge puddle of coolant in my passenger area floor. (luckily I haven't installed the carpet). I was just wondering how I would bypass it so it stops leaking. Im guessing theres an in and an out pipe. So just disconnect the hoses and connect them to each other? Right now in the heat of California summer i'm not worried about the heater working. I would like to drive my car without loosing all the coolant and over heating.

thanks alot, when I have time off ill get to work on my brakes then report back with any questions. I appreciate the quick replies

I figured out the problem. It was pin #1 on my harness. It was not connected to the(-) side of the coil, which controls injectors opening and closing. I wired it up. Started right up. Has a little trouble revving, and initial warm up. But idles great. And when I say trouble revving, it feels like it is taking its sweet time to rev. I havnt driven it yet to get an accurate test. It needs breaks first. Hopefully it just needs a little breaking in.

How do you properly bleed the stock brakes on a 1977 280z? I got my car running and need to to a few test runs but the brakes barely stop the car. I'm supprised it doesn't roll down the driveway. I'm going to replace the front brake pads, any suggestions on brands or trypes of brake pads? I've never done this before so it's a learning process.

This is the wiring diagram i found on xenons30.com.

UPDATE!!!: Today I got my car running. Sorta I found out that the pin #1 was not even connected to the (-) coil side. So I ran a jumper wire from pin 1 to the (-) coil. Plugged everything back in started the car and it ran. But didnt want to rev. Thats okay right now im just glad I found the problem. But, while the car was idling I reved it a few times... Or tried to, and then one of the fusible links blew. If your standing on the passenger side of the car looking at the 2 fusible link holders, its the one on the right closest to you. Which link is this and why would it have blown? Also is there supposed to be a resistor between the pin #1 and the (-) coil? And the absence of one caused the fusible link to blow?

Thankyou so much. You have been a lot of help. I'm sure I will be able to trace the break. The car sat for a Long time at a junk yard I'm not supprised there would be faulty wiring. Tell me I I'm correct tho, I traced the negative wire, it looks like it goes to the ballast resistor. From there it goes to the front of the car by the headlights. Across the front of the radiator to the other side of the engine over to where the fusible links are. Is that correct?

Well is there any help you can give me. I'm relatively new to the electronics side of cars. I'm kinda shooting in the dark. I did the tests and that's it. The most I know would be to replace peaces one by one till it runs. But that's not always smart. It's also costly.

Do you think that the ballast resistor could be bad?

I checked the Coil I have 12v at The + and - terminals.

Update: test #1: I did the ignition coil trigger imput circuit test from the efi bible, I tested pin #1. Its supposed to read 12v on the on position. It read 0. Test #2: I also did the control unit power input circuit test. testing pin 10 for 12v. and that test i got 12v. So, what does my first test tell me? Why wouldn't pin #1 be getting 12v?

I was wondering how the ignition coil controls the firing of the fuel injectors. When I looked at how the coil was wired it didn't look like it went to the ecu harness at all. Just from the distributor. And a + and - If someone could explain it to me that would be nice. And I do have the owners manual, The FSM. and the efi bible. I've looked through but all I could find was what pins to test with the volt meter. Did I miss something?

UPDATE: I took a Volt Meter the the injector harness and I put the + to one pin on the harness, and the negative to a ground Bolt on the fire wall. When in the "on" position it had 12v. I checked every injector plug. They all gave me 12v. But when I put the + in one and the - in the other pin and cranked the motor I had 0 voltage. So with my basic knowledge of how injectors fire, I have no ground to the injectors switching them open. Where could I have a bad ground at causing the injectors to not fire? I read that the negative on the coil controls the ground on the injectors. Is this true? And also, I read that the problem could be my Fuel injection relay mounted under the driver side dash. The injection relay controls the 12v feed and the fuel pump turning on right? (My pump turns on when I push the flap in the AFM) So if I have 12v going to the injector it cant be the relay correct?

The fuel pump is good I hear it come on when I push the flap it the AFM. The fuel filter is brand new What's weird is I got a inline fuel pressure gauge and it reads over 40psi when cranking. But the car never starts because the injectors don't fire. The car has been sitting for at least 7 years but I got it up and running a few months ago. But it leaked fuel from the injector hoses so I pulled the whole injection rail off. Cleaned it. New hoses. The works. Put it back on and it never ran after that.

Well the blue wire on the capaciter goes into the wiring harness. Im guessing black is ground. There is a chewed up ground wire by the distributor. I'll solder some wire and put a bolt connector on the end. Anyone else know about the bullet connector wire?

I Have a problem with a couple wires that I dont know where they go. There is a black wire coming off a resistor next to the ignition coil that has been chewed up and I dont know where it goes. Also there is a female bullet style connector that does not have its counterpart. I was hoping you guys could help me figure this out.

So, My 77 280z doesn't run. I checked everything and came to the conclusion that there is no power going to the injectors. I used a screwdriver to check if they click, There is no click. I used a 12Volt light, stuck the red and black wires into the injector harness (I checked every connector) no light at all. I read the 280z fuel injection bible, no help really. The car starts and then dies, which means that the cold start valve works but the injectors are not firing. I checked if the injector resistor (I think that is what it is called..) clicks when the car starts, it does. Any help is greatly appreciated.

well, at the moment I don't have 150 for a pressure regulator. I've got the one on my car or one off a 78. My fuel rail at the moment is shot. That's why instead of replacing it, why not upgrade it and never run into the same problem again. (plus i always wanted on of these rails) Could I use the '77 one? what parts would need to be blocked off? the 78 one would probably be easier to install too. it only has 3 hose connections. the 77 one has 4 connections. I work minimum wage so money isn't vary abundant..

Well the one in the link comes with the hose fittings and he's only asking for $100. Ill just need to buy extra hose and clamps, a fuel pressure regulator and just tune it? For the regulator I was just thinking one off of a 78 Z like this... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-PR8-Fuel-Injection-Pressure-Regulator-Datsun-2-8L-/330752718125?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A280Z&hash=item4d0265f52d&vxp=mtr#ht_2186wt_944 The pressure regulator on my 77 Z looks like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Nissan-Gas-Fuel-Injection-Pressure-Regulator-Part-/310309627726?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A280Z&hash=item483fe5274e&vxp=mtr could I use this one?