lammbn

Ok now, I don't mean to butt in here but I think that some people aren't quite understanding the concept of squish (aka quench). I was reading a thread a few days ago where someone was having the same problem and I think Braap put it nicely and easy to understand. I think it also very nicely explains why that custom peanut shaped head gasket will not work and is not needed. Here is a link to the thread, it goes very nicely into a head's quench/squish and that relationship to detonation, once you get past some back and forth bickering that is. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105653&highlight=squish&page=2 Again, sorry for butting in, it seemed appropriate in order to further the useful theories being brought up here. I got a little board and decided to also illustrate this and to bring up a point I think is important here, flame speed. Flame speed is one of the main things that makes quench/squish work. Let’s just assume for the sake of the discussion that both the quench and no quench images have the same effective compression ratio and volume. The first image shows a head with no quench, the second with the quench effect. As you can see the charge also fills the portion underneath the flat part of the head. What this does is make the flame front have to travel from one side of the whole cylinder bore to the other to consume the fuel/air charge. Now in this picture you can see that the flat top of the piston closes off the flat area of the head (the piston isn’t actually touching the head obviously, but it is close enough that it might as well be because it forces almost all the charge to be pushed into the dome of the chamber.) Now with this design the flame only has to travel from one side of the dome to the other, a much shorter distance. This helps detonation because the charge in both designs (remember same volume and CR) burns at the same speed (in meters per second.) So if it has to travel a shorter distance it will reach it much sooner than if it had to go the longer distance. What this does is create an ideal situation for the combustion to complete sooner than later which allows us to run an ideal amount of advance at higher RPMs and get complete combustion and maximum pressure at the ideal time (~15* BTDC), which gives us better power than running less advance and only getting partial combustion and pressure at that point. This also helps because at higher RPMs we have less time to complete the combustion for the same number of degrees of crankshaft rotation as lower RPMs, which is why we hear more ping at higher RPMs. I think I got all in there and at least mostly right. I’m feeling a little loopy right now so I may have it way backwards, so correct me if I have anything wrong.

I have the whole rear tailights and assemblies that i am getting ready to sell but haven't gotten around to listing. the frames are all sanded down and primered right now so you could paint them to match your car. the lenses are all cleaned and looking good as well. PM me if you are interested and i can send you some pictures and we can work out a price. everything is in great condition.

i saw your eagle and it reminded me of this that i saw a while ago, i really like art like this. its from a guy that runs a paintball web comic that you pretty much have to play to understand. i have waaayyyy to much invested in my paintball gear (I'm a little bit of an adreline junkie.) but anyways here is my favorite veiw of it. you can find the rest of his pictures of it at http://www.docsmachine.com/rage/index.html at the bottom he has a explanation of what it took to make it. it's pretty impressive, i have a lot of respect for people that can do this kind of stuff.

Hey guys, i just wanted to run something by you guys to see if my logic was ok on this one. i am getting ready to drill a 6 into 1 header for two EGT sensors and i want to make sure i don't screw anything up. i am building my own EGT sensor controller with dual digital readouts and an individual adjustable alarm system for when the temps get over a certain point. my question is which two cylinders would be the best to monitor? I am going to put them about an inch and a half downpipe from the flange. my thinking was to put them on cylinders #2 and #5. this was because those two cylinders always seem to be on the opposite end of the spectrum for flow rates and turbulance on most intake manifolds. #5 would go lean and get hot before the other cylinders because of lower flow and #2 would go rich and get hot sooner because of better flow. my main concern is being able to have any advantage to catch things as soon as i can before they go wrong when i am tuning the high end. i am definitly up for suggestions and/or any reasons to place them elswhere. thanks in advance guys.

actually painless sells TXL wire. which as i said above is a step down from this wire (take a close look at the entire page of the second link i posted above). the only bennifit of TXL is that it has a thinner jacket it is lighter, but you probably wouldn't know the difference until you had several hundred feet of each and weighed them out. Painless is WAY overpriced on all of their products. with a little bit of elbow grease and planning i could easily make five or six of the same exact harness kits of the same quality for the same price as one of their cheaper harness kits. I just bought the book written by the owner of Painless wiring, "wiring your hot rod." which i don't reccomend by the way. it seems i paid $25 for some guy to do almost nothing but promote his products and tell me how to install HIS harness, not much else. what a waste of money. they definitly are great quality products but they sure seem to think a little too much of themselves when they come up with their prices.

hate to bring back such an old thread but just thought i would share. http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/catalog?parentid=791874&page=1 14 gauge GXL wire rated for 125ºC and solvent resistant for $0.1135/foot. you have to buy it in 100ft spools but that’s still only $11.35 a roll. it gets cheaper too if you buy 500ft or larger rolls. this is the same exact quality stuff modern car manufacturers are using (TXL) but with slightly thicker insulation. this site pretty well explains the differences. http://www.kayjayco.com/catPWireSelect.htm hope it helps

I'm sorry guys. i didn't mean to cause any problems. When i tried to install the lock system before i hadn't even discovered this site yet and didn't really do any research to try to make them work. i just decided that since i am tearing my car down for a ground up re-build i would try harder and do more resarch to make them work when the time came to put the car back togather, which will be a while from now. so i wasn't too worried about it at the time. i was just reading through the interiors section and thought i would comment. again, sorry for causing a an old thread to come back to the top of the list.

I bought the power lock kit from victoria british a while ago. i tried to figure out how to make it all work with the stock window setup but i couldn't figure out how. the acuators it comes with that you have to put in the door are huge. there simply is no room to install them without some major modifications and possibly adding a big bump to the interior of your door panel. Has anybody else had any luck with that kit? i still have it in my garage. maybe i will try to figure a way to make it work once i start re-assembling my car. but that will definitly be a while.

Ok, thanks guys. i guess i will just try to focus on the mid-range of sizes for the bolts. i understand that it would be very difficult and time consuming to come up with a comprehensive list of all the bolts in the car. i guess i was just asking those of you that have had a lot more experience than me with re-building these cars for a few sizes that you seemed to be digging into your bolt buckets for more often than others. don't get me wrong, i don't expect to never have to make a trip to the bolt store for odd sized/shaped bolts, or ones that i don't have on hand. i am just trying to get a good stock so that i can minimize those trips since it is so far away to a decent selection and i don't have any significant supply of old bolts in my new shop. i'm still kinda young to have been able to built up a good supply, i have maybe a half of a coffe can full. I didn't mean to ask for so much, sorry it came off that way. thanks again for your help guys! I will let you know if i come up with a good list of some sizes i find handy to keep on stock or the ones i run out of the fastest.

thanks guys, but i guess what i am looking to do is replace any old bolts with brand new bolts. as many of them as i can. i have a great deal on this assortment just thrown into my lap that i am afraid won't stand for long. as far as making trips to the bolt store, the nearest place with a decent selection is a 35min drive away, to me thats a lot of wasted gas and time. also on the plus side this bolt selection will be very nicely organized, so again no digging through buckets of rusty bolts, which also equals not stainless quality bolts. but i really appreciate your guys help. if you have a few of those bolts in you bucket that you seem to be digging for a lot, next time you think about it will you send me the diameter, length(s), and pitch?

I am finnaly getting ready to dig into my car for a ground up rebuild since i finnaly got my own garage to work in now. I want to replace any bolt that looks if'y, which is most of them, but around where i live it seems that nobody has a decent selection of metric nuts and bolts so i have been looking into pre-selected assortments but now found that i can get a great deal through the hardware supplier for my work. He will make me a custom assortment of stainless steel metric everything all organized into a few of those nice pull-out drawers with all the bins. i need to tell him what range of diameters and lengths i want and what range within that i want him to focus on stocking me up the most with. since i obviously havent seen many of the bolts out of their holes i have no clue as to what that might be. so if anybody could tell me what ranges would be best to have on hand for both an L6 engine and the '78 body i would really appreciate it. pitch would also be nice, unless there are more than one present for any given diameter.

I was wondering if anybody has any experience in hand making flares. Specifically flat, straight angle flares with a small lip. The flares that I plan to make seem fairly simple to make. I don’t like the bubble type flares on Z cars, they just don’t seem to fit with the body style around the wheels. Nothing against them, just not my favorite. Anyways I am planning on attempting to make them out of sheet metal and welding them on when they are done. I guess what I am looking for out of this is for any advice and/or suggestions on the best way to go about this or any warnings about the difficulties involved. I am a fairly competent metal worker and have access to a tig welder and own a mig welder for rough work and tack welds. Here are some pictures of Z's with the flares I am trying to duplicate. I already talked to the owners and they are hand made one of a kinds. Any help is appreciated.

Look into motorcycle marker lights. catalogs like dennis kirk have multitudes of lights from flush mount to surface mount with smoke lenses with amber or red bulbs or any other combination. Thats what i plan on going with when i get to that point. should wire right in too because most bikes run 12v now days.

So justin, does this mean that you won't be doing a run of these at all? if your not is anybody maybe planning on being able to do a small run? it would be rather expesive to go to a machinist and ask for just one to be made, plus i don't know any that i trust with something like this. it would really bring down the price per flange to do as many as you can in one run. the big issue i guess would be that whoever does the run would have to have the capital up front to pay the machinist and be able to live without that cash until they sold them all. are there any machinists out there that might be interested in doing this run and possibly get the price down a little? just my thoughts, sorry for ranting.

V=IR (Volts= Current x Resistance). find out how much resistance you have with a multimeter (edit: Oh yeah, do this with the key on so that all circuits are open). Divide your systems operating volts (usually around 13.5v from the alternator with the car running) by the resistance and it should give you the amperage it will pull. if you are using this info for a fuse you should use a slightly higher rated fuse. hope this helps!

I don't know how the Z steering column lock operates exactly (I have an eariler Z that doesn't have this feature) but usually the steering column lock is linked to the lock cylinder. if you remove the lock cylinder from the column it should disable it. if not the steering column lock disk is underneath the sterring wheel and held in place with a big spring and a nut. its the part you have to compress to remove it. then just space out the wheel so that it sits properly on the spline. your on your own to figure out the wiring though. you should be able to rig it with a few switches and a push button. a clymers manual should help you out with this.

Wow that was quick. Thanks guys. I knew something sounded fishy with all this. So are there any markings to look for on this head to prove it is off a maxima? I feel kinda dumb now. I have always heard about the MN47 but never really looked into it because I figured that my head would work for what I wanted to do, that was before I found out that nearly all N47's crack. But the guy wants $250.00 for it, and that’s only after he takes off the valve cover and removes the whole valve train, I think I am getting screwed here. Now that I see that they aren’t so rare I feel like I’m being taken advantage of. I am very well versed about cars in general but not so much in the Z scene and all the little tricks just for the Z. He knows a lot about Z's and I’m sure he could see that I don't. I don't mean to accuse him of trying to trick me because I would like to trust him until he gives me reason not to. I am definitely going to be careful about my next conversation with him. I really want the performance of the MN47 and it would be perfect for my plans with my Z, plus now I realize that there is a lot of info and discussions available for this head. any other advice on this would be greatly appreciated. I need to know what to do. Thanks again for the quick response guys.

I was at my local Z performance shop earlier today; they deal only with Z's and have a few hundred Z's lying around, both inside and outside. It’s great resource to have nearby. Anyways I was speaking with the owner there about the possibilities of my engine with an N47 head and flattop pistons and he then proceeded to show me all the N47 heads that he had pulled recently, all of them cracked on the #3 chamber underneath the exhaust port, effectively talking me out of any notion of this route. He showed me at least 10 of them, and had many more to show me. Then he showed me a recent head he pulled off an engine. It was marked N47, looked like all the other N47’s but the chambers where a smaller volume. I believe he said that they were something like 38cc vs. the normal 44.6cc that would put my compression in the range of 11:1. He said that it must have been ordered from Japan when someone had done a rebuild, but that it was no longer available. He is holding it for me currently and I am going to go pick it up on Monday. I am going to take a closer look at it before I take it home. I was just wondering if anybody had heard of this obviously rare head? I can’t find any information on it after hours of searching. I am definitely purchasing it if it turns out to be authentic. Any help or ideas on this would be great.

how is the progress on the intake flanges going? You said that you are modeling them off of the N47 head correct? will it have injector bungs designed in? and what size are you planning on making the port holes in the flange? if it is stock size will you leave enough material around the ports to widen it to say 1 3/4" or so if it was desired? aluminum is the prefered media but it would have to be at least 1/2" thick.

This link has a spark advace table and VE table at the bottom for a pretty stock 78' L28. it should be a good place to start and fine tune from there. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113860

I was wondering if anybody out there is running, or had experience running a MAP/MAF blend system on their MS-II for their Z? I am getting ready to order my MS-II but I want all the details worked out before I buy something I won't be able to use for what I want. My current engine build will be a 78' L28 block with N47, ported/polished and modified chamber, head running flattop pistons for around 10.5:1 compression, 6 into 1 exhaust header with free flow system all the way through, and custom fab'd intake with 65mm TB, WB O2, and knock sensor with spark retard functionality. I am thinking of using a MAF sensor out of a Ford V8 mustang. there are two reasons for this; first is because is should be able to handle the flow without as much restriction for our inline 6's, second because there is plenty of information on the MS page regarding calibration curves that somebody else has already figured out for these sensors. I am really trying to make this work because the ease of tuning and for absolute accuracy across the board as far as knowing how much air is entering the engine at any given point so I don't have to make an educated guess as to what my VE is. I plan to use the normal MAP/TPS method for lower RPM because the MAF sensor is made for larger airflow and probably won't be accurate on my engine below 2k RPM. I need to know if I need to use the microsqurit code to do this, and if I do what are the tradeoff's I’m taking to do so. If anybody has any warnings or advice on this would be helpful seeing as how I’m not so sure how well this setup works on MS-II.