Derek
-
Posts
1317 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
40
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Derek
-
-
The squeegees are stapled to the moldings so you would have to cut the staples to remove the old squeegee and glue the new one on. Too Intense Restoration http://www.datsunrestore.com/catalog.html Has them for
47.00 for the pair. This is the direction I plan on going.
Derek
If the rubber squeegee material was available, how difficult might it be to bond it to the metal trim piece? I ask because I haven't taken the door trim off to look at the underside. -
-
I set up a gallery page here http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=836&ppuser=0 if anyone wants to follow my progress.
I'm also going to pass on a few pearls of wisdom that I've gleaned so far.
#1 Approximately two to three months before you start your project go out and get into a minimum of three or four bar fights. And if your over 35 make one of them a Country Western bar. This will give you an pretty good idea of what your muscles will feel like when your done sanding!
#2 Buy good bondo. I used Rage Extreme and it was awesome. It spreads easily and sands easily. I've used cheap bondo's before and there is a difference. Only do small areas at a time and do complete sections. Don't shove a wad of hardening bondo into a dent thinking you'll fix it by sanding. A nice smooth application makes the blocking so much easier.
#3 When you start doing the bondo work give your DA to a friend to hold. Unless you do a lot of bodywork all your going to do is turn the area into a giant wave. I hand blocked all of my bondo work and managed to nail everything in two applications of filler.
#4 Use a guide coat. I used a rattle can spray lacquer. A guide coat really shows where your at as far as high and low spots when your sanding.
#5 Always use sanding blocks. If you can't remove a low spot with a block then it will need more filler.
That's it for now. I'm sure I'll have more to add as I get into the paint work.
Derek
-
Thanks Guys. That's what I was afraid of. I may just bite the bullet and buy the ones from Too Intense Restoration.
I think wee need something like a parts supplier wiki. When you buy a part from a supplier you can list your likes and dislikes on the wiki.
Just a thought.
Derek
-
Black Dragon.
Not the best quality but it was a good starting point.
where did you get that replacment panel... I have matching dents on my front fenders -
Does anyone have any experience with the door squeegees from Black Dragon? I would prefer to get them from Too Intense Restoration but I have a 1973 so apparently they're different from the 70-72 versions. They're price on the later ones are a little rich for my blood! Black Dragon has them for 29.95 each. Of course if they're crap then it's not much of a deal.
Thanks
Derek
-
No more than a 1/4 of th tube. Probably less. Don't forget you need the dispensing gun as well.
Derek
I did a search for this product, and I found 7 oz. containers for about 25 bucks. How much of this adhesive did you use for that quarter panel fix? -
Yes you can. This stuff dries hard as a rock. I read about some complaints/concerns about shadowing through the paint but I think I'll have enough filler over everything to stop that.
Derek
wow, i never really gave adhesive a second thought, as i thought you had to overlap. but your fixes look great, and it looks like there won't be a great need for too much filler.can you grind it after it cures?
-
Click on the tech sheets link and then you can download a pdf.
most 2K primers take days to cure shrinking as they cure. Turbo 2K cures in 4 hours. Also the primer needs to be a DTM product.
I agree with you on the prices. I'm doing a very basic base coat clear coat job on my Z and I have over $400.00 in paints and primers so far.
Derek
That answers another question I had. I was using 150 on my 5" DA and thinking, how much better does this really need to be before I can paint it? It looks pretty damn smooth as it is.Apparently the surface finish is pretty close already...On that link you sent, the Turbo 2K info is dead. Any idea what the difference is between the 2K and the Turbo 2K? Faster drying or builds faster, I'm guessing.
Does it seem weird that I'll spend 5x as much on primer as paint??? Makes me want to try microballoons with the Rustoleum primer.
-
I'm using SEM 39747 panel adhesive.
39747 MULTI-PURPOSE PANEL ADHESIVE is a non-sag, two component epoxy adhesive system formulated to bond steel, aluminum, SMC and fiberglass panels without the use of an external primer. 39747 provides long working times (90 minutes) allowing body shops to correctly position parts for proper alignment. This adhesive contains glass beads to insure adequate bond line control. 39747 is an easy to use 2:1 adhesive that forms resilient bonds and maintains its strength over a wide range of temperatures. 39747 is suitable for bonding a variety of substrates, especially automotive grade cold rolled steel.
what is the name of the product you used i am very interested. -
The high fill primer is designed to be easy sanding. The rustolium primer is designed to be an adhesion promoter.
I would go with a DTM primer like the one you posted or Turbo 2k primer from southern polyurethanes which is also roll able. http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Product%20lines.htm
I'm no expert but this is how I would do it.
Roll on a couple of thick coats of 2k primer, spray on a guide coat. hand block with 180 or use 180 on a 6" DA and hand block the body lines, then hit it with 320 to get rid of the scratches (might be over kill for the Rustoleum) then go for the Rustoleum.
Derek
Yeah, I've been doing a bit of research (probably should have done that before posting) and it appears Rustoleum makes a spray can primer and also one that you can buy by the quart. I think I'm going to try the quart, and if it's not thick enough I'll add some microballoons to it to give it some depth, then go from there.All in all, this was a pretty stupid post...
-
Hi Rick
Yes I'm finally making it happen!
I'm taking the whole week off to get as much done as I can. This isn't a show car so I'm prepared for quite a few compromises! Thanks for the tip on the screw holes.
When are you guy's coming down for the shop tour? I hope to be blocking the primer this weekend so that would be a great time for a visit:eek:
Derek
Derek,First of all, great to see you working on the car! Panel bond is acceptable for repairs in these areas a few percautions should be followed though. First the metal must be absolutely clean no moisture, debris or rust. Second the temp must be in the range specified by the manufacture of the epoxy. This is usually between 65 to 80 degrees but some require higher temps and primers to be applied. With BMWs you have to heat the area with a torch or high temp heat gun and apply the primer while the metal is still hot. Then you let this dry and cool. After that you apply the adhesive and they rivit the panels together with special blind rivits. Also I noticed a couple holes near the bonded area, DO NOT weld these up as the heat will compromise the bond. Use panel bond to fill those as well, just dimple the hole with a body hammer first. Then finish as normal with filler.
-
When it came time to start repairing the rust my 240Z body I was trying to figure the best way for me to make the repairs. I have a full metalworking shop including a tig, mig, and spot welder so I had a few options to play with. I had been using some pretty awesome adhesives on my foundry patterns and thought I would investigate it more. My theory on the adhesives was that it would be better in two ways. The first would be no metal fatigue from the weld and the second would be superior strength because of th increased contact area. I did some research on the web and found that panel adhesive is some pretty spectacular stuff. I found plenty of tests where the metal would tear before the adhesive would fail. I purchased some SEM 39747 panel adhesive and an application gun.
Here's a shot of the first repair I did. This was not one I was looking forward to repairing. I decided that this was going to be a worst case test so I did a minimal of surface prep on the back side of the ¼ panel.
I roughed up the galvanized a bit and laid a pretty good sized bead around the piece. I was able to wedge it in place from behind. On other repairs I ended up using tech screws to hold pieces while they cured.
Here's a shot of the repair. Notice how easy it was to repair the section between the ¼ glass sill and the patch panel. I just filled the groove with panel adhesive.
I let the panel cure over night and gave it a few shots with the palm of my hand. Man was it solid, It gave off a thud like it was a solid panel. I made this repair about six months ago and have periodically rapped it with a rubber hammer and it hasn't budged.
Here's a repair I did this weekend.
I'm splicing in a repair panel on the bottom of the ¼ panel. The black stuff is por-15
I made a backing plate out of the left over material I cut from the patch panel. I screwed the backing plate to the inside of the ¼ and then screwed the patch panel to it. I then disassembled the piece and got the adhesive gun ready. I reassembled everything but this time with adhesive on all of the contact areas.
I made sure that I had a large enough bead so that it would create a water tight seal as well.
I stripped the clamps and screws this morning and man am I happy with this repair. It was a whole lot easier than welding and has rigidity about it that you don't get with spot welding.
I'm not sure of the long term effects of this but I read that BMW is using adhesives to hold on frame rails so they must be believers!
Derek
-
This is in the ocala craigs list but the car is in orlando.
He's asking $500.00
http://ocala.craigslist.org/car/499606408.html
Derek
-
Great production value! What were you using for you camera mount. Something homemade or store bought?
Derek
-
DON'T use stainless for that. Stainless steel is notorious for galling when used in even a light-duty bearing, and a galled up throttle bearing=bad news. If anything, use a heavy wall brass tube, and ream it to size after casting.
I've cast quite a few things, up to and including patterning and casting an entire replica of the L24 as a fully operational scale model. Trust me, I made the SS bearing tube mistake already, and had to recast two TINY SU carb bodies...(Sadly, i couldn't get the detail required to get them to operate like real SU's, mine are just look-alikes) Total displacement in my model is a whopping 13cid. And you thought that the full size L-series could get fiddly up on top!
:)When you get around to getting these cast, are you doing it yourself or jobbing it out? Doing it yourself isn't that difficult, and the learning curve is just about vertical. Once i get the rest of my car up and going, i may put the freed up space in the garage to good use and go for the DOHC setup ala 1 fast z, but as a solid casting!
Jake
Man that sounds way cool. I would love to get a look at that. I think you should start a thread about your motor as a lot of people here (me included) would love to see it.
I agree with you about the stainless galling but I'm not using it as a bearing surface. The problem with this manifold is getting a good fit between the butterfly and the tube. Since I can't machine inside the tubes very easily I'm going to cast in a machined piece of stainless tube so I have a known dimension for the butterfly. I have sealed bearings top and bottom for the throttle shafts.
I'm a patternmaker by trade and plan on getting one of my foundries to do the castings for me.
Again please post some shots of the motor!!!
Derek
-
I'm sure I've almost fallen into "all talk" status by now but I really am trying to make this happen!
I managed to get the core box completed for the front manifold. Now all I need to do is machine the throttle tube inserts, sand and paint the patterns and mount them to a board.
This is both halves of the core box. Each half will be packed with a hardening sand. The two halves will then be glued together to form a completed sand core. The rectangular sections in the front and back are the prints. Prints are what locate the sand in the proper position inside the main mold.
This is a closeup of where the stainless steel throttle tubes will go. they will be clamped in position in one half and sand will be packed inside it. on the other half of the core this section of sand will be removed. This will allow the aluminum to encapsulate the tubes. I hope!
You can also see the sand that will form the vacuum passage between the tubes.
The front tube (bottom screen) is the best compromise I could work out between having a tapered tube yet entering the port in a reasonable way.
Soon my precious.....
Derek
-
I'm much more impressed with the bicycleist. That took some real talent!
Derek
-
-
Good luck with the sale. I think I would start them lower then that since they don't cost much more new.
Well the only place I could find pricing is Wolf Creek Racing.
3 BRAND NEW OLD STOCK 44MM CARBS, Box Stock, not modified.......................$1500.00
44/45 mm Mikuni Short triple sidedraft manifold for Z-car w/ linkage BRAND NEW NEVER USED................ $ 425.00
Intake Horns for 40’s & 44’s Carb sizes:50 mm $30 each or $ 115/set of 4
That's $2105.00 plus the air filters. So $1300.00 is a little high as a starting bid but I don't think it's too unreasonable.
Derek
-
Just a heads up. I'm listing these for a friend.
Thanks
Derek
-
Well I paid 2500.00 for my 1973 240 and it was in perfect shape. But that was in 1981 so adjusted for inflation that's about $6000.00 . Now it's a basket case and not worth a plug nickel but it's on it's way back up again!
Derek
-
Hi tbs
Nice work! I have the nextengine scanner as well and I'm blown away at the quality I'm getting with my scans. I'm using it mostly on ornamental railing parts that are more organic in nature than engine parts. I may need to upgrade my computer though as it seems to take a while to do things like fuse and such. I upgraded to the pro version of the software so I can output iges surfaces to rhino and that was a big improvment.
What are you running for a computer?
Derek
The Range is about 12in and scanner is size of a shoe box. No Not CMM its a Next Engine 3D parts scanner the point cloud and automatic meshing is about 10000 times the resolution that can be taken CMM and about about a hundredth the time.tbs
-
Thanks for the compliments on the pics but it's really a case of the camera taking great shots. I bought a Nikon D50 DSLR when they first came out and and was just blown away by the quality of the shots compared to my more expensive (when I bought it) Olympus 3030. Up until now I've only used it to document my work. I tweaked the color saturation settings in the camera for these shots in order to give them a more vivid color.
nice pics id post mine but well they are basically the same as yours since we walked around together lol nice meeting you and that manifold looks sickYea it was great meeting you too Jeff. It's really great to see younger guys taking an interest in the early S30 cars. Yea the manifold does look sick I just wish it looked done!! I did leave the show re-energized (how could you not?) and hope to have the first casting done in the next few weeks.
I can't remember the screen name of the guy who owns the dark blue Z but he is a Hybrid member. Maybe Jeff's memory is better than mine.
Derek
:)
Door glass squeegees from Black Dragon
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
That may be so but I can't make heads or tails of his web site! Have you been there lately?
Derek