Derek
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Posts posted by Derek
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You are building an extra one for me Right?? lol You know im gonna find another z and want to build a nice NA motor!!! lol
Yea sure thing. I'll bring yours with me on Saturday!
It's a good thing my customers don't read this forum. I've got about 10 other things I should be working on right now!
Derek
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Thanks for the feedback guys.
I had a delay of game on a pattern so I decided to knock out the machining today. It went really well. I'll make a few adjustments in the next pattern to make things better. I was trying to get some info on injector boss dimensions and settled on making a smaller hole through the runner and larger hole in the boss for the injector. I removed the cap and o-ring from the bottom of the injector and I'll use an o-ring on the shoulder of the injector for sealing.
I machined the flange at 14 degrees which I think is the right amount. I'm borrowing a head this weekend so I can start mocking everything up. I have enough meat left on the flange to re machine it if necessary.
I ended up with an inclusion on the flange but it's shallow and won't affect anything.
The ports are under sized so I can match them to the head.
Next I'll be machining the throttle shafts and butterflies.
Derek
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Wouldn't some turbulence help the fuel spread out better in the chamber? Don't mean to answer a question with a question. Sorry.
I was wondering that myself. It must not be a big problem as I can't find any posts regarding it on the web.
Derek
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I'm setting up to machine the injector bosses on my EFI manifold and I'm a little confused (What else is new). Every web page I can find about making your own bosses for the bosch injectors has you boring a .540 hole or better.
One site
http://www.sdsefi.com/techinta.htm
has you boring a .640 to .650 hole through the boss then has you use an oring on the shoulder to seal the injector. This alows an air gap between the boss and the injector to cut down on heat transfer. I like the idea of this method but what concerns me is havening such a large hole into the intake. Won't this cause a ton of turbulence?
Thanks
Derek
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The touch screen is going where the head unit would normally mount.
No one sells 50- 75 watt amps anymore. They always try to sell the bigger/better units. Thats how much you would get just from any head unit now a days.Why not just buy a head unit and run the computer through the inputs?
So from what I gather there really no truth in advertising on amplifier output.
I guess I'll keep looking around .
Thanks
Derek
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Well now that my car is on the road I can throw a little time into the intake.
I've cut off all the gating and cleaned up the parting lines. I reamed out the embedded bushings for the throttle shafts and it worked perfectly. The shafts fit smooth as silk so I'm not planning on putting in bearings. I'll just use the bronze bushings. I sent tha manifold back to the foundry and he tumbled it in the wheelabrator machine which helped blend in the sanding marks.
Here's a shot of the business end. I don't know if it's going to run or not but I love the way it looks. The step in the bell is for the inner screen. I's probably a little too big. I thing I'm going to reduce it down with a die grinder so it's not so severe, I have some alignment issues with the throttle shaft bosses but since I'm not using bearings this won't be a problem.
This is the vacuum passage for the idle control and the brake booster. I have to open it up to the final size and tap it.
Here's a shot of the bottom side. I got a little shrink at the #2 boss but it won't affect anything.
I'm trying to finish up the machining on it this week. All I have to do is bore out the injector bosses and mill the flange.
YAHOOO!
Derek
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Thanks for the info guys.
I'll go ahead and order one of the amps.
Derek
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I have these speakers
Will this amp power them ok?
http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=4593
It's a 2 channel 150w amp. I'm not expecting awesome sound and my hearing's about shot anyways. I'll be using the line out from a carputer I'm putting together so I won't be using a head unit.
If this isn't the right amp can someone make a recommendation.
Thanks
Derek
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I had the same problem. I installed a Spal pusher fan up front. I have it turn on with the compressor and it made a big difference at an idle.
Derek
We finished my install. Works great...except for one thing. With IC, then condensor, then rad, there is not enough air moving across the condensor at idle or low speeds. I understand Nissan had an auxiliary fan blowing on the condensor on the stock ZX set up, gonna set that up in front of the IC when I get back to Calgary next week.Heading home from Bakersfield next weekend...that will be the true test of the AC system...driving through Vegas in the afternoon.
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Yes it slid in from th passengers foot well. It is quite noisy on high and the Dynamat sounds interesting. Let us know how it works out.
Derek
I've got the same unit for install in my 240Z. It looks like you were able to accomplish this without pulling the whole dash? That has been my biggest setback as I don't want to park the vehicle during the upgrade. I'd like to figure a way to select cabin or outside air too. I plan to add layers of Dynamat to my a/c evaporator unit to help lower the noise levels. Heck, I even used some on my home a/c unit out back. It made a huge difference! To answer chemical blue, No, it is not electric. You have to mount a belt driven compressor out front. Most use the later two or three belt pulley. instead of the early single belt often found on the 240Z. -
I've had pvc for airlines in my shop as well for about 10 years. I have friends with PVC airlines as well. I was outside the other day and heard a large boom and a lot of air rushing out. I went running into the shop to kill the compressor. a T FITTING exploded and took about 8" of pipe with it. My wife was standing about 5 feet from the fitting when It blew. We were living right that day as it blew behind a metal cabinet. Man she about pissed her pants and I can't blame her. Would she have been killed if it wasn't for the cabinet? Probably not but she might have lost an eye. there were bits of pvc shrapnel on the floor behind the cabinet.
I've got 150' of 1/2" galvanized pipe showing up on Monday.
Not trying to preach just passing along my experience. I would say if you plan on using pvc maybe it should be changed out every 9 1/2 years!!!
Derek
I got asked what compressor I use, well heres a picture, I use twin 7hp/60 gallon compressors feeding a single garage wide run of schedual 80 1/2" PVC piping with brass fittings rated at 660 PSI, yeah! IM well aware you should NEVER USE PVC for air, I used it for 10 PLUS years ,in my old shop, my buddies used it for over 12 years in his shop,and its what Ive installed in the new garage, schedual 80 1/2" PVC piping with brass fittings rated at 660 PSI, if and when I have problems it will be replaced, I fully agree, if you used larger dia,or schedual 40 your just asking for problems
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I have a 73 240z and upgraded to the Toyota calipers. Since then I have no front brakes. The brake pedal has good pressure but still no front brakes. I also replaced the master. I coukd use some advice.
Thanks
Were the calipers used?
The pistons may be stuck.
Derek
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Hi
I'm looking for a 2d drawing of the interior rear trim panel and the front kick panels. I have a CNC router and I'm going to make a custom rear speaker panel and this would save me some drafting time.
Thanks
Derek
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thanks for the write up derek. i hope to go down that road soon.
Well if you would get your butt over to my shop at some point you could check it out in person. Actually the car is running pretty good so a run over to Dayton might be in order
Derek
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Well as anyone knows that lives in a hot climate the 240 air blows. Well actually it sucks and that's the problem. The blower motor sucking through the evaporator is not a very good arrangement. After doing a bit of research I opted to go with the Vintage Air unit. The tipping point for me was the fact that they use servo motors to control the flaps and this will work out better for me in the future.
After you get rid of all of the old heater and ac unit there is a ton of room back there.
The first picture is of my old unit which this being a Z car forum you all have seen before.
This is the GEN II Mini with the brackets I fabbed up for mounting. With this bracket arrangement I was able to utilize the old heater mounting holes. Notice the masking tape on the squirrel cage inlet. This will help avoid removing the unit to get the last screw out of the fan when you drop it.
How do I know this!!!
The three vents in the front are for the A/C outlets and the two in the rear are for the defrost. The passenger side duct plugged right on with no mods. The divers side needed to be taken apart at the first joint and a small piece of the supplied hose spliced in. The supplied defroster hose was the same size as the factory hose so that was a piece of cake.
Here's a shot of the back side with the brackets. I used 3/16†x 1†aluminum flat bar for the rigidity.
When I slid the unit in for a test fit I noticed this hole in the dash bracket lined up nicely with the front mounting hole on the unit. I designed the rest of the mounts around this point.
This is all that sticks out from under the dash. Much better than the old unit.
I'm using their rotary switch plate assembly. This center plate is just my test mule until I can get every thing sorted out.
Now isn't this better?
Here's some info about the rest of the setup. I ordered The soft aluminum A/C lines from Vintage Air as well. This made for a much cleaner install. I then used custom made hoses to connect everything. I'm using a SD 508 series compressor with 134 freon. Fortunately It hasn't been too hot in my part of Florida yet but I can already tell it's doing a much better job that the old unit. The only thing I'll say bad about the unit is it's a little noisy when it's on high. But it does move a ton of air.
I'll update this in August when it will really be getting a workout.
Derek
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I used stuff from SPAL http://www.spalusa.com/
I have their power window kit
Their central locking system with alarm and one of their auxiliary fans.
I'm really happy with the quality of their stuff. I plan on incorporating one of their door poppers into my hatch release. I did away with my door lock cylinders but kept my door handles.
Derek
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You could buy the SEM paint listed in this post
http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23919&highlight=dash+repair
Then it would be the same texture and color. I did my dash with this stuff and it looks like the factory texture when your done. The trick is to make it happen in one try. going back in and trying to spot a section is so so.
Derek
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I hear ya.
I think I drove a total of 50 miles all last week. I could probably get by with a lot less batteries.
Great now I have to finish my EFI intake manifold and build an electric Z
Derek
if I had the money and time I would SO build an electric Z. I really don't drive too much. considering I live NEXT DOOR to work. So really i only would be driving like 10-20 miles TOTAL a day. -
Congratulations Six_Shooter!
I just got my 73 on the road after a 12 year or more hiatus. The ride was harsher than I remember and it's a little slower than I hoped for but it's still a gas to drive.
Enjoy
Derek
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just throw a space heater out under the hood
Well like so many threads that I see on HybridZ This has turned into one person trying to actually accomplish something and 5 guys trying to see how witty they can be without actually adding any content.
I'm done.
If anyones interested in the data I've collected you can send me a PM and I'll be glad to keep you informed.
Derek
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Just think,if everyone had agreed with your idea you probably wouldn't have tried it - now it looks like you may have something. Good work!
I always do better when someone tells me it can't work!
As far as a remote start I can only say you guy's must not drive early Z cars with SU carbs. Starting one cold is not exactly like EFI. We have a thing called a "choke".
That thing have a thermostat? You could be the first z owner to overheat his car while its parked and not running LOL.I still think your crazy BTW, whether it works or not! lol
Evan
I hear ya! When it started heating up the first time I thought I'll look pretty dumb if I crack the head without the car running.
And yes I am CRAZY.
I think you'd be better off teeing into the heater hose connections to get proper natural convection through the block. They are right near where you mounted the heater too. Make sure you plumb it so the inlet of the heater is on the hose coming from the discharge of the water pump. If it gets warm enough, the engine thermostat will open, but I wouldn't think there'd be much benefit to heating up the radiator.Wouldnt work for me, my electric fan would come on and try to cool down the engine that I heated up...
I felt that by introducing the hot water into the inlet It would make a more natural progression through the motor. I need to change the water outlet so I'm going to just remove the thermostat and run the heater. If I get water flow then I'll drill the hole in the thermostat and button it up. If not I'll reroute the hoses into the heater.
Derek
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Ok
I got the heater in today and it looks pretty cool. It's about 7" tall and about 3" in diameter. It fits very well directly behind the alternator. The inlet is in the bottom and the outlet is in the top. I decided to pull cold water from the drain plug on the radiator and feed it back into the 3/4" nipple coming off of the water inlet on the block. I filled the radiator back up with water and plugged the unit in. It started getting hot right away. I let it run for about 10 min and started checking for heat. The lower radiator hose was getting warm but the rest of the motor was still cool. It was apparent that it was taking the path of least resistance and reentering the radiator through the lower hose.
I didn't have time to do any re-plumbing so I just let it cook. After about 45 min the radiator water was a piping hot 160 degrees! I was quite impressed.
I think whats happening is the thermostat is keeping the hot water from circulating. My plan is to drill a small hole in the thermostat. I'm thinking along the lines of 1/8" or 3/16".
When I get it all figured out I'll post some pictures.
Derek
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Happy birthday Big-Phil.
I know what you mean about people believing you as I also was born on April fools day.
Wow two hybrid members born on April 1.
How about that.
Derek
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Well I just turned 49 today and my main ride is a F250 4wd Diesel. I'll certainly take this info seriously!!!
I really didn't want the car apart for too long in the shop so I was trying to get a handle on what I have. I'm going to drive it like it is for a few weeks so I can get a little road time in. 10 or 12 years out of my Z is just too long. I'm looking for all kinds of errands to run.
Thanks
Derek
IMHO, spring rates in the 175 to 225 range are about perfect on a street 240Z with good shocks (Tokico Illuminas, Tokico HTS, Koni 8610s, etc.). That's coming from a 48 year old man who drives a F350 every day.
Making my own EFI intake... The First Casting
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Yea I looked at those. They're nice and if I had a manual mill I'd be all over it. With my CNC mill though it's just a two step process. I drill the through hole with a drill bit and then orbit in with a 3/8" end mill to cut the injector bore, o-ring pocket and injector clearance pocket.
Ain't technology grand!
Derek