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Derek

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Posts posted by Derek

    Making my own EFI intake... The First Casting

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    I was thinking about putting it in the Wheelabrator machine after I clean up the parting line so I'm thinking the smut treatment might be a waste. Any thoughts on this?

    Derek

     

     

    Its "Green Sand" in an old school hand rammed pattern box, it mainly consist of bentonite and Oklahoma#1 sand. Pretty easy to make just don't get your moister content wrong or it goes pop! I would ask them to smut(acetylene) the mold before closing it up next time, it will give you a satin smooth surface.

     

    Nice to see that the first run came out well,Good job!

    Making my own EFI intake... The First Casting

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Now for the small world award. Steve is a frequent visitor to the foundry. He's known the owner for quite a few years and I've met him a few times. He's really a great guy and has a firm handle on the home brew "build it on a dime" mentality.

    The foundry uses induction melters. They use Olivine green sand. I've got a bunch more pics that I'm going to be uploading to a gallery in the next few days. I'll let you know when I've got it done.

     

    I'm sure we can work Kevin Bacon in here if we try hard enough!

     

    Derek

     

    Derek, do you know what type of furnace they are using? A lift out crucible furnace? Tilting furnace or cupola furnace? I'd love to see some pictures of their setup. Also what type of sand are you guys using? I've been reading a lot of Steven Chastains book's with a lot of enjoyment and had always wanted to do what you're doing. http://stephenchastain.com/store.htm

     

    Thanks,

    Tyson

    Making my own EFI intake... The First Casting

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    I wondered what took so long for someone to pick up on that!

    Seriously both of these guys (one is the owner) have been doing this continuously since both were in high school and they're both in their early fifties. The first time I saw it I couldn't believe it because I'm like mister safety at my shop. Now when they pour bronze and iron it's a whole different story. They look like spacemen.

     

    I don't want this to turn into a debate about foundry safety so if people want to go that direction then let's start a new thread.

     

    Thanks

    Derek

     

     

    Pouring molten aluminum with a short sleeve shirt and no gloves... that is what I'm looking at there, right?

    :shock: :shock: :shock:

     

    Manifold looks great, btw!

    Making my own EFI intake... The First Casting

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Thanks guys. I'm really happy with the way it turned out.

     

     

    holly &$&$&$ that is awesome derek i need to make it out to ocala to see that thing. or you could just take a detour and go back to ocala though daytona!!!! lol looks awesome... hrmm i might have to get one of these when your done....well i guess i will have to cut it and weld on a plenum though. cause you know i cant live with out boost!!!!

     

     

    That's why they make band saws and tig welders!

     

     

    Looks like trumpets?,thats a manifold?-pretty cool anyways :-)

     

    Well I figured if it doesn't work as a manifold I'd park a seal behind it, teach him a tune and go to work at a circus!

     

     

    I'll knock the cores out later this morning and post a few pics

     

    Derek

    Making my own EFI intake... The First Casting

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Well I finally got some time to get over the foundry to pour the first manifold.

    If you are new and need to come up to speed here's a link to the design stage

    http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121021

     

    And a link to the pattern making

    http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121478

     

     

    Here is the core assembly all glued together with the stainless tubes and the bronze bushings in place

     

     

    DSC_0008_Large_.JPG

     

    This is the pattern with the flask around it.

    DSC_0013_Large_.JPG

     

    Ramming the sand

     

    DSC_0018_Large_.JPG

     

     

    This is the drag or bottom of the mold with the pattern removed

     

    DSC_0024_Large_.JPG

     

     

    Setting the core. Cores makes castings hollow.

     

    DSC_0029_Large_.JPG

     

     

    We decided to do a dual pour. Don't try this at home! I'm running the camera by the way.

     

    DSC_0044_Large_.JPG

     

     

    The moment of truth.

     

    DSC_0054_Large_.JPG

     

    I'm really happy with this

    DSC_0056_Large_.JPG

     

     

    I ran out of time but tomorrow I'll shake out the cores and post a few more pics of the casting.

     

     

    Derek

    Solid 240z or early model 260z in Central FL

    in Cars Wanted

    Posted

    I saw this in craigs list a while back.

    http://orlando.craigslist.org/car/545820452.html

     

    Derek

     

     

    Everyone here is trying to sell their car that's not even worth 500 dollars as a parts car for 2500-3000 dollars...as a poor kid, that makes my Z addiction not an easy one to please.

     

    If anyone has any info or is selling their Z for a decent price and condition, please let it be known. I have a 280zx and I'm dying to put the L28 and the 5 speed in an older Z.

    Interior work... audio and such..

    in Interior

    Posted

    I also have the Spal kit in my 73 and I'm very impressed with the quality. The parts are made in Italy and that's a very refreshing change from the crap from China that I'm used to. I also have the spal central locking/alarm kit and it's equally impressive.

     

    Derek

    dynamat alternatives

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    I'll second that about rick at RAAMmat. He's a great guy and his product gets great reviews on the boards. I have a roll of RAAMmat that I'm going to put over my home brew spray on and then ensolite foam over that. I did a test piece of RAAMmat on the floor board and it stuck to spray on really well. The thing I liked about the liquid deadener is I was able to flow it into all of the crevices. I really hope to stop the exhaust from entering the car.

     

    I did mine in RAAMmat as mentioned by Cruez. I did both the dynamat like material and the dense 1/4" foam over the top. This stuff flat works. It adds weight, I would say 75 lbs, but for me it is worth it. Goes on easy and stays where you put it, very sticky. I have not had it on the road yet, but just sitting in the car with the stereo on, it is amazing. Doors close like a vault. Rick is easy to work with...highly recommended

     

    showphoto.php?photo=18376&cat=786

    dynamat alternatives

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    Here's what I'm using. I got this info from this post

    http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/alternative-lizard-skin-103610.html

     

    I'll condense it a bit. The idea is to get the glass micro spheres and add them to your paint of choice. I went with a water based elastomeric roof paint. I bought the micro spheres from here.

    http://www.hytechsales.com/insulating_paint_additives.html

     

    I bought the 5 gallon kit and mixed it a little heavier than they recommended. They said I could double the amount but I would get better results by using more coats. I spent $100.00 and ended up with 3 gallons of roof paint and the 5 gallon kit of micro balloons. I'm really satisfied with the adhesion I'm getting and it seems to work well as a sound deadener. I used an undercoating gun for the doors and 1/4 panels and a 3 inch roller for everything else. I tinted half the paint grey so I could control the coverage better. I'm on my third coat.

    Derek

     

    refurb2_2008-01-31_6_Large_.JPG

     

    refurb2_2008-01-31_Large_.JPG

    Door pin switch alternative

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    What a great idea.

    Especially since I have a bunch of reed switches laying around and a pile of neodymium magnets that I use in my slot cars. And as an added plus I get to use more relays! I LOVE relays.

     

    Thanks for the link.

    One more problem solved on HydridZ !!!!

     

     

    http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/80180Instruction.pdf

     

    Here is a link to the actual parts. http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/catviewsearch.php?SearchField=80180

     

    Very cool and clean install!:P

     

    If you don't mind cutting holes or enlarging, check your local JY for modern pin switches from late model cars. Most have rubber seals that would work with some modifications to the existing pin location.

    Door pin switch alternative

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Not a bad idea. Unfortunately I don't have any switches at the moment so I have to buy something. They must not be as bad as I remember as there isn't a lot of "door pin switch" discussions on HybridZ!

     

    Thanks

    Derek

     

    Derek, you can likely take apart your old door pin switch and use the plunger/housing and attach a better quality switch to the back. Basically using the "pin" that the door presses to actuate another switch.

     

    Evan

     

    BTW, a direct replacement is unlikely I would think. Removing that leaves a rather large hole.

    Question for Orlando Members

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    I live in Ocala which is about an hour north of Orlando. and yes it does get hot in Florida. I hope your interviewing for an indoor air conditioned job!

    I'm not super familiar with Orlando but they have their fair share of crime. At least according to the morning news. It is centrally located and you can get to quite a few nice destinations fairly quickly.

    I would think that it will be quite an adjustment moving from the bay area to Orlando.

     

    Derek

    Making my own EFI intake... The casting begins!

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    I managed to get a little free time and got the stainless throttle tubes made. Originally I was just going to cast around the stainless then drill through the entire casting and tube for the throttle shaft. I was never really crazy about this and finally came up with a better plan.

    Here's a shot of the bottom core mold with the throttle tubes in position.

    DSC_0004.jpg

     

    Keep in mind your looking at the inside of the manifold. The silver paint is release. I pre-drilled the tube and drilled a 1/4" locating hole in the core box. The plastic tube serves two functions. First it locates the throttle shaft hole in the correct position. Second it will hold the bronze bushings that I'm going to cast in place as well. Now after it's cast all I have to do is ream out the bronze busings and the trottle shafts are good to go. If I want to counter bore the manifold for bearings I can do that as well because the boss for the bearing will still be there.

    Here's a closeup of what I'm talking about

    DSC_0005.jpg

     

    Notice how the throttle tube is flush with the runner. This means there wont be a step or ledge (I hope) between the aluminum and the stainless.

    This is the top section of the core.

    DSC_0006-1.jpg

     

    After this core is made I will saw out the section where the stainless tube would go and glue the cores together.

    Here's the bottom core filled with the catalyzed core sand

    DSC_0008-1.jpg

     

     

     

    DSC_0010.jpg

     

    When the sand is cured and I glue the two parts together I'll hand finish the seams so that everything is nice and smooth.

    Unfortunately I had to leave before the sand kicked so i don't have any shots of the cores out of the boxes.

    Hopefully I'll be heading over to the foundry next week to cast the manifold.

     

    Derek

    Door glass squeegees from Black Dragon

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    The stuff from metro looks promising. I should have thought of them as i bought stuff for my rambler from metro

     

    Thanks

    Derek

     

     

    Has anybody looked at a JcWhitney catalog or Steele rubber products catalog for a roll of squeegee weatherstriping...seems like there must be a manufacturer of the stuff around somewhere that sells it by the foot... maybe a trim and upholstery shop?

     

    EDIT:

     

    Think I might have found it:

     

    http://www.automobiletrim.com/window-channel.html

     

    bottom of the page, Morris/MG part number WS/777

     

    If thats not it try this page at Metrommp.com

     

    http://metrommp.com/metrocart/PartListByType.cfm?Type=Window%20Channels%20%26%20Sweepers

     

    One more:

     

    http://restorationspecialties.com/

     

    there catalog is in PDF form and I have yet to look at it but here it is just in case, somebody might find the link useful in the future.

    Blue foam for fiberglass mold ? what is it

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    It's in the insulation department in 4' x 8' sheets. It comes in 1/2" thick and 3/4" thick. You can also get it in thicker sections but you usually have to order a whole pallet. My local construction materials supplier stocked it in 1" thick pieces which was nice.

    When you use the foam there is a thin plastic sheet that you need to remove first. It just peals off. Also if you use a hot wire to do any cutting make sure your protected from the fumes. Polyurethane foams emit some really nasty gases when burnt. 3m supper 77 spray adhesive works really well for laminating.

    The blue and pink foams are superior to EPS white foam every way for this type of application. It sands and carves really well.

     

    Derek

     

     

    Hey guys, old thread but I need more info on this foam. What size blocks do they sell it in at Home Depot and where in Home Depot do you find it(what department?).

     

    Also is this foam like that green flower pot foam, I want to be able to shape it and then cover it with fiberglass and then remove the foam.

     

    Thanks!

     

    Guy

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