New-to-240z

So, I grabed some rebuilt 4x4 calipers SW12 I believe (now I can't remember, go figure). But, I'm getting a lot more clamping force from one side then the other, and the heat generated after a few really hard stops is different on each side (one by a large degree hotter). So, I thought I had a bad caliper that had stuck in its position. I took off the calipers today and pressed down on the brake pedal to see if any specific piston was not pushing out. Here's what I found . . . I thought that both sides' pistons would be pressing out of their cylinder on a fixed caliper? Am I mistaken? You can see that the side that get the fluid first is actually pressing out completely, where as the other side isn't pressing out at all?!?! Is this normal operation? I will be taking measurements of the brake pads soon to see which pistons are pulling back, or aren't pushing out (causing uneven wear). But this totally threw my off?! I did get these from AutoZone, and am guessing that might have something to do with it. But, both calipers?

Grabbed the adjustable ARB end links & bumpsteer spacers for 15" rims. I'll be throwing those on soon and will then start taking measurements. After that I'll make the choice of spring rate and will then work from there. I've found an old friend who does corner balancing and is willing to help me once I get the new springs on the car. So, THANK YOU EVERYONE for your help. I'll report back once I've got things setup and at least somewhat dialed in. My hats off to you all, as I'm still learning and this site has always been a treasure trove of information and kind people.

I found a few posts by your talking about wheel rate and will do some calculations on my side. I've found this site to help do the calculations myself. (I don't have a scale to do the corner weight and was wondering if there were any general numbers I could use for the 240Z with interior still in the car) Wheel Rate Calculator

@JohnC: Doing so would make it 6KG all around. Is this optimal? Not questioning your opinion, just pointing it out

@JohnC: I do have a strut bar up top and bad dog frame rails. In the rear is the S13 Subframe which pretty much boxes in the rear and makes it pretty damn stiff.I checked with the manufacturer of my coilovers and they stated I can run + or - 2KG and there should be no problem with the shocks. So, in the front I'm thinking i'll switch to 6KG, and the rear I'm still up in the air on. Should I move down only 1 KG (to 5) or 2KG (to 4)? @Rebek: If you look at the pictures above the fitting doesn't look like it will hit the rim (since I ran some pretty hefty spacers to bring the rims/tires flush with the fenders. The tie rod however does look a little close so I'll be sure to do some testing after I install the bumpsteer spacers. Make sure I have no binding. I'll be attaching a camera to the frame and doing some hard turns to see if the ARB is hitting anything at all. I don't feel safe putting a piece of wood in between the ARB and frame, just doesn't sound strong enough with all he pressure that thing sees. I'll be picking up everything this weekend and hopefully have it all installed next week!! Picture of sway bar and front end rework by Adrian Vabrille

@JohnC: I'll mark adjustment points for the 'standard' driving position and of course number of turns as well. - I'll flip the ARB end bolts and snug them down this time (may have to buy new bushings since they have always been this deformed since install. Amazed no-one has noticed this with all the alignments). - The car is at the perfect ride height for what I am looking for, so I'll purchase the bumpsteer spacers from MSA the next time I'm there and install those and see what difference that makes. Hopefully it will be enough to correct the angle. I've read that people needed to take some material off the BS spacers, is that the case with the MSA ones or is that only Arizona Z? @Aongch: My feeling was to have a standard alignment done and then another using JohnC's. Then, getting everything tested and figured out. Then finally move to corner balancing and getting it dialed in exactly. (this may not be the right order. I may want to corner balance first, but I would think that I would want my exact alignment settings before corner balancing.) Thank you EVERYONE for all the help. Once this is all put back together on the Z, I'll be taking her out to the track and having some fun learning! (On a side note, I've also read that the 8KG front and 6KG rear is too stiff for our cars. I have the ability to grab some Swift springs and was thinking of going 6KG front, and 4 or 5 KG rear. This would allow for a little extra give, but that's just me looking over numbers and other people's setup and company's products [Arizona Z] ). Should I leave the 8kg and 6kg springs in for now or switch to the softer springs since everything is out of the car and not aligned yet?)

A little off topic, but do you think that this picture shows that I need bump steer spacers? From the looks of the tie rods, I do, but a second opinion is always welcome . . @Rebek: I'll post a walk through once I think about all the steps I'm not the smartest guy, so hopefully someone can poke holes and offer some constructive criticism on my process.

@Gnosez: Looked them up and they look nice, but unfortunately they top out at 225 in R15. My rear rims are 10.5" Work CR01 and the 235/50R15 R888's fit perfectly on them. The fronts however are using 225's, so I might look into the Toyo RA-1s for them (but I'm afraid of running different tire types front and rear). @Rebek: I think what I'll be doing is using JohnC's alignment guide for one year. I'll work with the alignment guys and mark 2 different settings. Here's my thought process... Setting 1: Around town (normal camber and toe settings to help keep tire tread wear down.) Setting 2: JohnC settings I'll mark down the John C settings by doing the following. Have them set the camber and toe to normal/safe range. Mark Camber/toe spot location on top plates and rear adj. arms. Then, after setting the the JohnC angles I can count number of TC rod turns to get to correct toe from normal settings. (do same thing for rear) This way I can set my track (johnC) settings at home before the track using the notes, and can return the car to normal after the track day. Since the Toe arm is 6 sided, I could be able to number each side to make the process easier. (same for rear arms except they only have 4 flat sides). Do you think this would be possible or would this, in the end, cause more problems?

@Tube: Looks like the Megans can be switched front to back and can even switch out up to + - 2 KG in spring rate without affecting the shocks performance. So, I'll be keeping that option in the bucket for my next event. @Rebe: Luckily the Megan coilovers have camber adjustment plates already. So, I'll be looking into marking 0,-1,-2,-3, 3, 2, 1 on the plates for future reference (as long as I don't change ride height, this should work for on track changes correct? I'm guessing I'll need to note the amount of change in toe when adding neg camber to make the adjustment accordingly?) @JohnC: You are one of the most talented/knowledgeable guys on here. Thank you for even jumping in. Will the alignment settings for the front that Rebe talks about work on my car? I would think the rear would need to be different since it is using the S13 subframe. In any case, its is primarily in Mid corner. by understeer under power do you mean in a straight line or while in mid turn with power applied? I will take more time taking notes next event to gain more information. My alignment will be done by a recommended alignment shop that specializes in unique suspensions, and will hopefully make a noticeable change. **JohnC's Alignemnt Post in FAQ**

Hello everyone! So, I'm in the process of dialing in and taking on the setup of my current configuration. If you've followed any of my posts in the past you'll know the following . . 1973 240Z 8KG Front and 6KG Rear Megan Racing S13 Street coilovers 1" MSA front 240Z anti-roll bar Stock 17mm S13 Rear sway bar Rear S13 full subframe with fully adjustable components (UCA,TC, etc) Toyo R888 Front: 225/50R15 Rear: 235/50R15 I have checked the front LCA position when car is on level ground and they sit almost exactly parallel to the ground at its current ride height, so I do not believe I will need bump steer spacers. My question that I have is that my car seems to have some pretty bad understeer under hard cornering. I have been reading up and with the stiff springs that the Megan CO's have, it might be a better idea to go with a softer front anti-roll bar (maybe back to the stock 240Z bar?) and stiffer rear anti-roll bar. I was going to purchase the 240Z adjustable sway bar end links in conjunction with the stock bar to give me a changeable setting to even further soften the front. I know that I can bring the pressure up on the tires a bit, but the last time I took it to the track it was at 32 and 35 PSI. I would be afraid of upping it any more then 37. Any insights or recommendations?

**Update 5/12/14** After talking with several officials and local welding shops I decided that the current company will no longer be allowed to touch my car. The work that they performed on my 1973 240Z was considered to be done by an unlicensed (or poorly, poorly, poorly trained) welder. On top of that, the work itself would not pass ANY inspection when taking my car to the track. How this company allowed my car to leave the shop in such a condition is beyond me. I spoke with Adrian over at Vildini MotorSports and was LUCKY enough to get my car in for him to give it a once over and re-do the work correctly. I just received word back from Adrian that the front end work has been completed, and I wanted to show you the completed work . . . Here is the work performed by the OTHER company . . . After all was said and done this is the work performed by Adrian . . . WORLDS better and done RIGHT! Thank you AGAIN Adrian for the quality work that you do. I will update everyone with the Original shop's name as soon as litigation is completed. I'm having Adrian also resolve the issues that I have been having in the rear of the car (also done by the other shop!!) once he has more time.

Everyone, I fully appreciate your opinions on this matter and all the help you have been. I'm going to fight this legally (as I just do not trust the shop at this point to do ANY quality work. I will be sure to returnj with updated information myself.

They do drift competition cars, and are at all the drift shows. I took their name out because I am starting the lawsuit with them, and don't want them to consider it bad-mouthing their shop.

I can put together bolt ons, standard engione work, etc. But welding and structural integrity is what I pay someone to do for me. I PAY someone to do this work RIGHT and SAFE, and I expect the work be done to a standard. I wish I would have known someone who does weld, to take with me when I first inspected the car. @Everyone : I really do appreciate your assistance and opinions on everything.

Thank you Xero

- Again, my family owns its own law firm (Claims Attorney), so I'm not incurring any costs. If all I do is cost them a load of $$ and nothing gets done, then so be it. I feel I am completely in the right on this, and will follow it through to the end. I paid to have modifications done to my car that have shown to be poorly done and have put their entire job in the "Questionable quality".

This shop is HUGE and does their own drift competition cars (as well as porsches, ferraris, etc) So, I'm guessing they have insurance. I'm not sueing for damages, I'm sueing for faulty work and constant repairs that never seem to actually repair the work done. This is simply going to be a "I paid for this, you gave me that. So, I'm going to have another reputable shop do it right, and you will be billed for the work done". From my understanding this shouldn't be a big deal for the company as this can be a write-off for them. Plus, I'm lucky enough to have family Lawyers, so this won't cost me anything.

@ SeattleJ... 1. If you track the car, you are pushing it quite hard. Even factory parts break when you push it, let alone aftermarket parts shoddily grafted onto non factory locations. Where have you tracked the car, any off track excursions? - Car has not been tracked once yet. The car was going to goto the track after the 'test' run which caused the failure. So, this supports my feelings more, as almost NO stress has been put on the car. (I drive it once or twice every month, and only normal city driving) 2. What is the ride height that you run the car at, or the spring rate. A picture would really help us out. If you ride the car low and have stiff springs with the dampeners turned up, then they could also say that you used them not as intended. An easy counter argument would be, what spring rate are you running. 10k? That is nearly 10 times more then stock, of course it would break! - The ride height is actually not that bad. I lowered the car about 1 inch from the Tokico shocks. - The spring rate is the standard 240SX weight, which is pretty stiff for our cars, but I have seen others that have done this and not had any problems (even with tracking the Z) 3. I know it is hard to swallow, but it is a custom install. It really isn't the traditional way that modification is done. Thus, they also have the defense that you were a pioneer/test bed and had taken responsibility for the possible failure. Now if you gave them instructions to do it one way, and they did it their own way without permission, there is something there. - I spoke with my lawyer on this and another shop and they feel that the amount of issues I've had (constant issues since the work was done, with multiple visits to the shop and time inbetween to test), I shouldn't have any problem getting a full refund or out of courst settlement (which I will not accept anything less then 80% of costs). 4. Possibly the most important, it doesn't look like their weld failed, it is the factory sheet metal that tore out. Their design was bad and may have caused that to happen, but that would take an engineer to prove, their weld that holds the coilover to the strut is intact. Without a prior picture or a during install picture where it shows they cut into the origin of the crack, they can argue that the piece that they worked on is problem free and that the chassis given it's age is the culprit. - This is true, and I expected this would probably happen. I will handle this if it does arise, when the time comes. 5. If you had problems with the workmanship, you shouldn't have been pushing the car at track days etc. - Again, this car has never seen a track. Let alone any speeds over 80 mph (since I never felt safe in the car after the work they performed.), so that has never been an issue.

Hey SeattleJ. I GREATLY appreciate all the information, and will take everything into consideration when filing for cost recoup. @Everyone : have made the decision to not have them repair the issues (as there have been multiple other issues that they say they have fixed, only to find they never even touched the car), but instead have Vildini Motorsports handle the repairs. I have seen Vildini's work before and FULLY TRUST their fabrication work.

The coilovers are the Megan 240SX coilovers. Others have moved to this setup (on this very site) and have had no problems thus far and they even track their cars! I take mine out probably twice a month, and haven't even had the chance to really enjoy the car

Everyone. It is greatly appreciated an I will be using a lot of the information here to fight them on the work. @seattlejester : The work that was paid for has been in question since it was first done. Luckily my brother and father both own their own law firms and both feel that my life was put in danger and the work performed was inferior and is subject to scrutinizing. I have given them ample time to resolve these issues and as such if they can not resolve/repair the work to satisfactory, I will have a reputable shop resolve the problems and all associated welds. All costs will be paid by crappy workshop plus any fees associated. I have hopes for this shop as they BUILD DRIFT VEHICLES, and $100K+ cars. So, one way or another this will be fixed. Anyone else have any information/opinions on the look of the welds. This shop has also done work on 3 other Z's (basically the same work my car had done) so I want to contact the owners of those Z's first to make sure they are aware of the work provided to me.

Hello Everyone, I recently did a front and rear conversion on my 73' 240Z. The rear end had a 240SX subframe installed. Up front I had them fabricate in 240sx coilovers. Now, when they did this everything seemed fine. I rarely drive the car and I recently was getting it ready for its first day on the track. I tightened everything up, made sure I was ready to go and took her for a spin. While out and about, I pushed the car somewhat hard to make sure nothing came loose or broke. Well, low and behold I hear a loud noise and pull her over to the side of the road. Open the hood and what do I see. . . So, I was really hoping that I could get some insight from everyone here. I've had other problems with the shop that did the work, namely the front end will not stay straight and always pulls left or right after its respective turn. So, I've been fighting with them for almost 1 year, and with this happening and the quality of work. . . I may have to take them to court.

As a heads up to anyone reading this, I just called Auto Hole Plug, and they do not carry the plugs needed for our Z :*(

Yes sir haha Thanks again for the help. (I'm at work, so was bored upon lazy . . . soo ya )

You sir are amazing. I'm guessing this is true for 240Z - 280Z? (I have a 73' 240Z)