New-to-240z

I've actually not done anything yet. I ran into some $$ problems with the house so I'm back to square one. I think it will be another 2 months before I can finish it. I may not do the front because I already have the Vildini crossmember welded in. The 240sx's front CM is actually pretty far back . . . I'll let you know.

Just wanted to let everyone know that I shipped some seats this past weekend and they came out a little heavy . . 1973' 240Z Seat weight with rails : 38.5 lbs with boxing. So actual seat weight probably more around 34 lbs. Don't know if anyone needs this info. but thought I should post it for people searching google.

Thanks John. If anyone needs it just let me know, I'll send it out the same day i receive payment. Plus, it would be nice to get rid of it since its just sitting in the box in my room.

If anyone needs one of these things, I still have a brand new unopened box. As long as John doesn't mind me selling it, I can sell it for the same price shipped to you. I am going S13 rear end, so I'll never need the tool. Let me know if you need it as it would be nice to get it out of my room. (John, let me know if this isn't allright with you. I'm just trying to sell it since I have no use for it. If I could return it for the $$ I would but this saves you the hassle.)

Awesome. Thanks for the heads up! What offset are you running? I'm actually looking at getting the 17x9 +35 rears and 17x7 +40 fronts. What is the lip like on your 7.5's? I think 18's are a little to big for me I love the car though, looks nice.

Was wondering if anyone had any pictures of a Z (preferably in white) with these rims on them? I am moving to S13 suspension and found that these should fill out my fenders nicely. I'm just trying to get an idea of what they would potentially look like on my Z.

@FastZcars : PM'd

@Fastzcars : They actually did my SR20 swap. haha I just found out that they can also do the S13 fab up as well. I looked at their site and it looks like they only test fitted 18" rims. Which for me, is a little to large. I always wanted to stay around 17" max, because 18 requires so much cutting of the fender to fit. I'm still up in the air on this, so I'll have to get back to that later. I might have to swap to 5 lug to since my rim selection is limited when using 4 lug.

DAMNIT! Ya, I am having the entire rear subframe fabbed into my car next week. So, I'm guessing now is the time to start looking for some new Rims. Do you think you might be able to help me out with this. Is there a formula/site that can better help me to find some rims that will fit correctly under the car now? I'll just sell the rotas locally. I was really hoping that I would be able to fit them under the car becuz I love the look of them.

So, I've done some research and found this on our site . . So, if my notes are correct then . . 73' 240Z Track Front : 53.3 Rear : 53.0 (found here . . Datsuns Link) 1993 240SX (S13) Track . . front 57.7"/ 1466mm rear 57.5"/ 1461mm (found here . . Some Site) My question is, I have already purchased the Rota RBR's in 17x9 and 17x9.5 for the front and rear. Now, these rims have the following offset . . 17x9 = -13 offset 17x9.5 = -19 offset Now, I have 2 different flares I can go with. . . Standard ZG flares : 2-1/4" flare front and rear Oversized ZG flare : 3-5/8" rear and 3-1/4" front I'm not too knowledgable when it comes to wheel spacing but I thought someone on here might be able to help me out with this. I just want to know if these rims will fit with either the oversized or reguilar ZG flares once I have the S13 suspension installed. From the #'s it looks like the 240SX is about 4.4" wider in the front which would be 2.2" on each side and the rear is "4.5 longer which would be 2.25" on both sides. The tires I'm going to run will probably be 245/45/17 front and 275/40/17 rear. This isn't a def yet, but I'm just going off of what other members have done and want to make sure that I can use them, and if not, sell them. If I can use them I just want to make sure that they sit flush with whatever flares I go with and don't look way off. I will have coilovers installed so clearance won't be an issue. Your help is greatly appriciated. I hope I have provided enough information to figure this out.

Well . . . I will take all of this into consideration and will probably go with the 200/250 setup. No need to go with aftermarket coilovers for an S13 if I just get the TTT rear end conversion. But, if the S13 suspension modification system goes through then I will work with the coilover manufacturers to see if they can lower their spring rates and at the same time re-valve. So, here's to hoping for the best and we'll see how things turn out. If anyone has anything else to include please do let me know. I can always learn more from this site and its users. Thanks again to everyone who has responded. It makes this conversion and thought process much easier for me.

Damnit John, there u go sounding way too smart again!!! so, u are saying that if I go with the the ground control setup then I should go with 200F and 225R with standard Illumina shocks. Now, With the numbers you are giving me and the calculations i have found on the net (200/56= 3.57kg/in) for the front and then (225/56= 4.017kg/in) for the rear. It is sounding like it is a better move for me to just get the GC setup. I don't know if the coilover maker (stance) would be willing or even able to provide me with springs that soft and then re-valve the shocks for them. Its just hard because I am on the edge of going with an entire rear and front conversion to S13 parts . . . or if I should just go with a TTT rear end conversion. The price is almost the same except that the S13 conversion is actually about $400 more, and if the car is ever crashed no $$ can come from it. Where as if the TTT conversion is thereand the car is crashed, the parts can be salvaged and re-sold assuming they are in good enough condition.

so you're saying front 200 rear 250?

Drax, Do you know if it is even worth it then to go with a coilover setup from an S13? The reason I was thinking of going this route was because of the range of adjust ability. I can request whatever spring rate I want from the company and they will provide me with the springs as well as re-valve the shock for them. I know I can get the ground control coilover kit, but I was thinking that pre-load adjustment, as well as height adjustment would be a good idea, rather then the GC setup which doesn't allow for pre-load but instead just allows you to drop the car. The price would end up being about 300 more for the full coilover option, but is it really even worth it for me? Also, thanks again for the help.

Just to give people a heads up, I live in Mission Viejo,CA and may be selling a brand new set of 17x9 and 17x9.5 RGM RBRs in the next 2 weeks. If you want them let me know via PM. Things are going differently with my car and I need different offset wheels.

It's made of rubber and actually fills the gap that you are talking about. At least that is what I believe he is talking about. Most people though wnat to run the 73' bumper up close to the frame of the car and if that is the case, it requires purchasing the bumper bracket kit from MSA or some other retailer. This allows for the adjustment of the bumper to as close as possible.

Well, the shocks are already included in the coilover package. I'm just wondering if I should have the maker of the coilovers re-valve the shocks as well as replace the coils with something in the 225 and 250 range. I haven't bought anything yet but everyone on this site is usually very informative. I know that AZDAN has created the coilover adapters for S13 to S30 vehicles, and they accept the Megan Racing coilovers as well as the Stance coilovers. The stance and Megans are the same spring rate, but I just want to be sure that its a good idea to go with that stiff of springs for the Z's lighter body, as well as having the SR20DET make the weight a little lighter on the front shocks since the engine is moved so far back in the engine bay. If anyone can give a little more insight to this I would truly appreciate it.

Those look exactly like my Gorilla lugs, but cheaper. I can't say they are the same quality, but if this guy says they work . . . I'd go for them.

Nobody knows? I've done searches and it is saying that 1 kg/mm = 56 lb/in and I did the numbers and that comes out to .. Front : 8kg = 448lb/in Rear : 6kg = 336lb/in Now, I don't know if that's correct numbers since I've been seeing nothing but 200-225 Front and then 250 Rear. Seems that those are much stiffer then most people's setup for their Z's. I'm just trying to see if I should have them replace the springs with new springs and re-valve the shocks. I don't want a STIFF as nails ride, since I can't seam weld the car, and I don't want anything bad happening to the frame. I'll be getting a roll cage and strut bars, but that's about it for the chassis.

I bought the Gorilla closed end. I don't have any news on the feel of them, since I have yet to install the rims on my car. But I will let you know . . . in like 2 months (LOL)

So, I'm having the S13's suspension fabb'ed up to my 73' 240Z in a few weeks and I'm looking to purchase a set of coilovers to install on them. I was wondering if anyone here could help me out with a simple question . . Should I ask for a new spring rate and have the shocks re-valved? I ask because most of the setups I see for my car (240Z with SR20DET) are running Illuminas with F225or200/R250 spring rates. Now, the spring rates that I see on almost all of the street S13 coilovers are F8kg/R6kg. Now, I don't know exactly what the kg means since everything I have been researching has been 200-250. Now, this will mainly be a weekend driver and won't see more then 2 days of Auto-X or track use a year. Its just a nice car to have for me to drive down PCH during the summer months and one that I enjoy driving but want it to be a little stiffer for a more precise control feel. As always your insight is greatly appreciated!

There was a thread you cna search for by me a month or two ago. I had a TON of responses in it and there are links there that will give you all the information you need to remove the evap tank. I have yet to drive my car with the tank removed, but it was simple enough. (you'll need to goto classiczcars . com to find that thread. Silly me, I thought I was still in that forum HAHA. I have the same screen name over there as well.)

I think this post should be in the marketplace section. . . .

Actually, engine can easily handle upwards of 18PSI stock. The turbo . . . MAX is 14 psi. I've seen people push over that . . . but their turbo goes out pretty damn fast! I have a friend who is running a GT2871R at 19 psi and making some good numbers 340+HP on stock block. (of course he has Z32 MAF, 740cc injectors, front mount IC, etc etc. . )

Anyone want to make one for us guys that can't weld . . . I'll pay for shipping and parts and labor hahaha