New-to-240z

Thank you very much for all the help along the way. I'll be taking the class next month. I'll try to keep my eyes open for a welder. Should I purchase some scrap metal to try working on? Any specific types? I'm sure they'll tell me in my class, but anything would be a big help to get ahead of time.

I think I know someone who has one for sale. I'll check out Craigslist too. I'll keep the Miller & Lincoln name in my head when looking. Any model in specific for the tasks I have ahead of me? Will this one MIG welder do all the things I need it to do? (fenders, frame rails, strut bars, etc etc.) Or will I be needing more then one kind?

Well, I'm just looking to learn how to weld roll cages, strut bars, frame rails, our fenders, and some other chassis bracing. (Maybe even exhaust stuff to. I guess I'll have to start saving $$ to buy a welder to. I thought they would be more in the 300 range, but 600?!?! couple G's for a TIG?!? My god, I can barely afford the strut bars hahaha. Maybe I can find someone who has one they can loan me or sell me.

Ok . . Ok . . . Its time to start tearing her apart. I'll be painting soon to, so why not? I've already got a class lined up, its a little expensive, but I think it will cover what I need to know to do the welding ahead of me. what do you think? ----------------------------------------- Wire feeder welding is the most popular form of welding, yet most misunderstood. This course will provide hands-on experience in the proper use of welding using various wire feeder-welding machines. The class will cover the following: Safety and Hazards in Welding Constant Voltage Welding Machines and Welding Guns Arc and Metal Transfer (both MIG and Flux-Cored) avoiding Spatter and Arc Stability Shielding Gases Starting and Stopping the Arc Short Circuit Transfer, Globular Transfer and Spray Transfer modes Weld Test and Welder Qualifications for Certification If you are an artist, a hobbyist working on small home projects such as wrought iron fences, gates, wall decorations, or a professional, including welders, automotive technicians or anyone wanting to learn how to weld using MIG and flux-cored techniques, then this class is for you. Session I: Tuesdays & Thursdays, June 1-July 6 Time: 6:00 pm-10:00 pm Location: Skills Center 101 Fee: $225

HAHAHA, ok ok ok . . . . I'll start the tear down. I have signed up for a class next month. Tell me if this is good enough . . . Wire feeder welding is the most popular form of welding, yet most misunderstood. This course will provide hands-on experience in the proper use of welding using various wire feeder-welding machines. The class will cover the following: Safety and Hazards in Welding Constant Voltage Welding Machines and Welding Guns Arc and Metal Transfer (both MIG and Flux-Cored) avoiding Spatter and Arc Stability Shielding Gases Starting and Stopping the Arc Short Circuit Transfer, Globular Transfer and Spray Transfer modes Weld Test and Welder Qualifications for Certification If you are an artist, a hobbyist working on small home projects such as wrought iron fences, gates, wall decorations, or a professional, including welders, automotive technicians or anyone wanting to learn how to weld using MIG and flux-cored techniques, then this class is for you. Session I: Tuesdays & Thursdays, June 1-July 6 Time: 6:00 pm-10:00 pm Location: Skills Center 101 Fee: $225

hope you don't mind me asking . . . but what is the tool you used to remove the undercoating of the Z? I'm looking to do this myself as I want to be sure I don't have any bad rust spots on my car. I don't want to buy a compressor (i live in a condo and my garage shares a wall with my neighbor's house) but if I have to I will and just do it in sections over the course of a month or so. (EDIT, just did a search and those things are expensive!!! $150 just for the gun?!?! You feel like selling yours after your finished? HAHA)

VERY interested in this, but waiting to see on the camber plates and price. I'm not ruling anything out.

Good lord! I was just looking to brace the chassis a little bit more for a weekend driver. Is all this really needed? It looks like I'm going to have to take a welding class ASAP. All this information is amazing, and I'm keeping it all for when I'm ready to go all the way. Are these all things that MUST be done if I'm looking to move to around 300+ HP? This car will only be driven on the weekends and it is in pretty damn good condition. I know everyone says that their car has no rust, but I think the PO did a under body coating on mine and I've torn off some of it in random places and it has no rust at all! I'm not trying to get out of doing this things, but just wondering if they are all necessary for my goals. I'm thinking of doing the fram rail to frame rail reinforcement and then also a roll bar (like the 8-point one on ebay) and strut tower bracing (welded in, not bolted). I'll also be going with TTT's rear-end conversion, and will be beefing up the front diff mounts at the same time since I hear that they are very weak points.)

Would Bad Dog sway bar reinforcers do the trick? Sway Bar Enforcement

Do you know where I can pick up the pdk braces? I have emailed and phoned him many times and no response yet. (EDIT : just talked to him and found out that they are waiting for the next production run. This will be at least a few months out until he has them available.) Are there any other companies that sell the same type of bracing?

@John : 1. Not looking to install a roll bar. This car will be mainly for weekend driving on PCH (the beach) and maybe a auto-X day here or there. Nothing crazy. I'm truly just trying to strengthen the chassis to handle the extra HP I'm putting into it. 2. Well, what I'm thinking is that I can use this as it is, and also add a rear strut bar. Both will not be welded, so would this make a large difference in strength? 3. I will be moving to coilovers soon. Just not at this very moment. So, stiffer springs will be there in time. 4. I will be adding in a front strut tower bar that will connect the strut tower to the firewall/cowl of the car. The coilovers will also be installed front and rear. So, is it worth it? Also, thank you for your insight. I'm new to chassis strengthening, and I'm learning more from this site everyday.

would love to see the outcome of this. I really don't want to cut my fenders, but will if I have to. Just a little scared about doing it.

Hey guys, just wondering if anyoone can give me some insight on this product . . JDM - Street bar Its nothing crazy and I'm not looking for a roll bar. I'm mainly looking for chassis bracing. But, what I'm wondering if this is nothing more then a strut tower bar? It looks like it would be a stronger alternative since it braces in other areas, but I want to get your input. He only has one left and I'm not able to weld so I was wondering if this would be worth a look. Or would this be more of what I am looking for. Another option This is just going to be a weekend driver, maybe a track day once or twice a year. The main reason for this is to stiffen up the frame and help brace it for the extra HP i'm building. (300 - 370HP SR20DET.) I will also be putting in new frame rails and front strut bracing (strut tower to cowl triangle bracing.) Also, would it be better to add on a strut tower bar as well? Thanks for all your help!

Read the thread, it will answer that question as well as about 100+ others that you may have regarding these wheels.

Please don't laugh at me . . . but what exactly do you mean by shim? Are you saying that you should center the strut such that the space is equal on both sides to allow for the most perpendicular setup possible? (once again, flaming if you must haha)

I can jump in here and give some words . . I have had a S13 Blacktop for over 4.5 years. I myself have put around 85K miles on it. Of those 85K miles I was running 13-14 psi boost, on a stock end with the same setup as you, for around 79K miles! I actually just tested the compression of the engine yesterday and here is what I got . . When I bought the engine Cylinder 1 : 155 Cylinder 2 : 154 Cylinder 3 : 156 Cylinder 4 : 155 Compression numbers from yesterday Cylinder 1 : 153 Cylinder 2 : 153 Cylinder 3 : 154 Cylinder 4 : 155 Now, that just means my engine has been having no problems thus far with the boost. But, the turbo is another deal. Luckily, my turbo hasn't been giving me any issues, but the max psi you would want to run on this is 14, and even then you are pushing it. My car is a weekend driver and hasn't seen any continuous high revving, and I change my oil every 2,700 miles. In my mind, I was lucky and got a beast of a motor but then again our engines (bottom end) can handle 400HP easily. This has been documented MULTIPLE times. In the end what I am saying is that 14 psi is the MAX you can run your stock setup at, but you need other mods to do so. EBC, fuel pump, exhaust, intake, downpipe, elbow, etc. etc. Good luck and be safe! (PS. I too am in the process of putting on a GT2871R A/R .64 With some 660cc injectors, a Z32 MAF, and maybe some cams and supporting head work. These cars are fun with a stock SR in it (210HP)and with 300 - 360HP . . . you better know how to handle a go kart!)

In all honesty, I think these seats will stand up better then the stock 240Z seats. I mean, my seats are tearing up and falling apart. I feel I would be worse off keeping my stock seats then I would be replacing them with these. But, I may be wrong.

I will also look into building them myself, but I have no welding experience, so it would have to end up being dilled holes, which is going to be the same as the brackets from this company.

I called the company up that sells them, and they said they would sell me the left and right side brackets for 170 so I may just go that route, but i don't know yet.

Please do post about your thoughts. I am thinking about going with their rear-end conversion to a Q45 VLSD. But the parts are PRICEY!! But, I'm wondering If I buy it all at once if they will give me a little discount

I will say, that the SP2 seat was VERY comfortable. Had I not gotten the GS, the SP2 would have been my next choice. It also looked great. (I actually bought the cushions from this seat to switch into my GS, that's how much I like them!) PLUS, they're only 170 a piece. They are also VERY LIGHT! The guy said that this price is the last time it will be this cheap. They're shipping costs are going up and the price on the seats will have to as well. (He may have just been trying to make the sale, but I didn't care. I knew I was going to buy the seats either way. haha 220 a seat looks VERY tempting and shouldn't be to big of a problem.) So, anyone else's impression on 200 for a pair of brackets for the seats? Is that really too much, or is that the going rate for seat brackets? The seats already come with the sliders, I just need the brackets to bolt them to our frame.

Well, I was able to test fit/sit these babies on Sat and I must say . . . NOT BAD! I will point out that the gradient design is not something I myself would recommend . . . they seem to look cheapy with them gradient. I will also point out that I have already put the $$ down for a set of the GS Recliners . . I ALMOST went for the non-recliners but in the end, I felt I wanted to be able to recline at will rather then move my entire body. I will also point out that they are not the lightest seat on the market They are pretty heavy (the non-recliner is actually VERY LIGHT) but for 220 per seat, what can u expect? Quality of fabric : Well, I have never sat in a TRUE Bride seat, but these seem to be made pretty good. I myself am going to have the cushions re-made to be a little more fitting (I actually purchased 2 extra sets of cushions from the non-recliner seat because they are actually more comfortable for me.). The fabric itself seemsw pretty nice but not the best, but once again... for the price . . Construction : Didn't get a chance to drop it from the top of their building (They declined) but they seem to be pretty good build quality. The seat sat pretty strong and it didn't feel like it was cheaply made. So, +1 on that! All in all : I liked them enough to purchase 2 that day. I'm going to have to wait until June to pick them up, but I think it will be worth it. He also mentioned that his seat bracket supplier has the brackets for a 240Z, and when purchasing them with the seats, they let them go for $100 a bracket. I don't know how good of a deal that is, but not having to weld or anything is a big plus for me!

I'll be heading down to their shop tomorrow morning actually to test sit/fit their seats. I'm a pretty thin guy and not to tall, so I'll let you know how they all work out for me. The don't come with any rails, but since we'll be cutting them up anyway I think that's ok. I thought this was a GB but it seems that its not because the price on their site is the same as the price of one seat from the GB? Either way, I'll report back with some pictures and thoughts on the feel of the seats. I'm hoping they turn out to be of at least decent quality. Do we have any write-ups of anyone installing 240sx seats in a 240Z? I searched but couldn't find anything yet.

Thank you Mark. That would mean that we have at most, a 23' clearance. I will measure my car when I can get down to my storage place. I wish I could measure it when I got home, but since I'm working on my garage right now, I had to put the Z into storage. The seat I was looking at was the following . . . GS Seat, Reclinable Bucket Seat GS seat, the reclining bucket seats. This seat sits super low for a bottom mount seat. Similar to the Bride Low max system. Beautifully upholstered with red stitching. AVAILABLE in BLACK or RED, and Black with gradation. MSRP: $1300/seat Price per PAIR (for single seat, just take off half the price): No logo, FRP shell: $440 No logo, CF overlay shell: $560 No logo, Real CF shell: $750 Logo, FRP shell: $520 Logo, CF overlay shell: $640 Logo, Real CF shell: $830 Dimensions: Width Outer Shoulder Area: 22 Width Bottom, Widest Point: 19 Width Inner Shoulder Area: 11 Width Inner Lumbar Area: 10.5 Width Inner Seat Area: 13 Height: 33 So, hopefully this looks like it will fit without any issues at all.

They have about 6 different styles to choose from. Are they all to large?