Pop N Wood

220V is the RMS value so it is directly equivalent to DC volts. AC motors do have an issue with the current and voltage being shifted in phase. Hence the inductive "power factor" I mentioned. The voltage and current you measured are RMS values. Multiply them together and you get "apparent power". Multiply that number by the power factor and you get the true power consumed by the motor. But the breaker doesn't care about power, only current, and has to be sized by that value. You taught me that compressor motors seem to draw quite a bit more current than the theoretical value would suggest. Guess I will take a closer look at my compressor's manual tomorrow. Doesn't really matter because it has yet to run out of breath in the 6 years I have owned it. I got it close out at a Sam's club for half what the Sears units were going for.

Hear what you are saying about HP ratings and compressors. Have to be careful. I have a 5 HP "rated" compressor that runs fine on a 20 amp circuit. But admittedly I have not looked into the rating that carefully. All I did above was straight math. One HP is 743 watts, plain and simple. At 220V it means 3 1/3 amps per HP, or about 17 amps for 5 HP. But that would be a 100% efficient motor with no inductive currents causing a larger apparent power. This link http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=767&R=767 Says the 5 HP Ingersol Rand compressor draws 22 amps at full load. Closer to your number than mine. Guess that means my compressor either isn't fully loaded, has played games with the rating, or something else. Still I remember checking the owner's manual when I wired the compressor to a 20 amp breaker. Follow whatever the manufacturer says to do for the compressor you have. 50 amps circuits are prohibitive for most home shops and a 5HP rated compressor is what most guys will need as a minimum. 30 amps is much more realizable than 50. Good thread.

Nail guns are best driven with a small, portable compressor. That way you can carry it to the job sight. Impacts, ratchets and many times even a chisel can be easily driven off a medium (3-4 HP) compressor because they usually run only in bursts. Continuous use stuff like griders or paint guns need at least a true 5 HP continuous run compressor. That means 220V. Many books actually recommend 6-7 HP min, but I have had good luck with my 5 HP compressor.

Make sure you change the oil ASAP. It can pick up quite a bit of moisture when sitting for any length of time. Hope to bring my Z out of storage this spring. Don't even care about the swap right now. Just want to drive it again.

26 amps at 220V = 5720 watts = 7.7 HP. There are some power factor and line loss issues involved, but this should ball park the amperage requirements. A true 5 HP compressor should easily run on a 20 amp 220 V outlet. A 20 amp breaker can easily handle a short lived starting current several times it's rating. As someone mentioned, the breaker must be sized by the gauge of wiring connected to it. No real thought required. They have tables for all this stuff. As for putting too many breakers in the subpanel, I don't know what the laws state but as long as the breaker in the main panel is sized correctly for the 10 ga wire feeding the subpanel, than that breaker should protect you from trying to draw too much current from the welder/compressor/outlets. Still I think it is a good idea to match the 220V breaker amperage to the intended load. Can't hurt and can only help. Keep in mind the plugs themselves have amperage ratings. There is no point in connecting a 20 amp outlet to a dedicated 30 amp breaker. If you need the plug configuration of a 20 amp outlet, then use a 20 amp breaker. Larger wire will actually reduce your power bills ever so slightly, so don't be afraid to go overboard here if you want. As someone else said, upgrading to larger than 10 gauge wire feeding the subpanel wouldn't hurt either. Keep in mind there are different gounding requirements for subpanels than say a dryer outlet. Subpanels must be fed with cables containing separate ground and neutral wires. Another good trick: on your 110V outlets make the first receptical a GFI then daisy chain all of the other outlets off that one. Nice to have GFI protected outlets in the shop.

Most building codes say a separate breaker must be used for each 220V device. Probably not a bad practice but not always workable. I have a 220V radial arm saw and compressor on the same 20 amp breaker. I just installed a separate 220V switch to turn the compressor on and off. What the building inspector doesn't know won't hurt him. Couple of things. I would not wire the compressor into the 60 amp breaker used for the welder. That breaker is way too big to safely protect the compressor in the event of a problem. In fact, I would be willing to bet that 60 amps is too big for the welder. Most 220 V welders only need 30 amp breakers. For a 60 amp breaker you need at least 4 guage copper wire. My guess is the welder outlet is wired with 10 guage wire, which is only good for I think 30 amps. Might want to go with a smaller breaker on the welder. For the compressor, I would strongly recommend a separate 20 or even 15 amp 220V breaker wired to a 220 volt outlet. The compressor can then be wired to a plug and pluged into the outlet. This gives you a little more flexibility should you have to move the compressor. From what you are saying, I think you have a subpanel in your garage. The garage subpanel should have a breaker in the main box feeding and protecting it. Putting the compressor breaker in the garage subpanel should be fine (if the panel has room for it). Use 12-3 wire to wire up a plug box for the compressor. 12-3 should have a separate black, red, white and ground wire. The white wire is a neutral and the red and black are the two hot wires. The ground wire hooks to the outlet box itself if it is made of metal. The other three wires hook up to the 220V plug receptacle. In the subpanel, the red and black wires hook to the two posts on the breaker (doesn't really matter which way), the white wire goes to the bus bar with all the other white wires and the ground wire goes to the bus bar with all the other ground wires. I am a little hesitant to tell you how to wire the plug wire to the compressor. Usually those things have a red, black, white and separate ground (green) wire. You should have gotten instructions with the compressor. My advice is to follow those. Also a 30 amp breaker on the outlets and light is rather large. Look at the wire hooked up to the breaker. 12 gauge wire should have no larger than a 20 amp breaker. 14 gauge wire should have no larger than a 15 amp breaker. Standard 3 prong outlets are only rated at 15 amps. But, if you feed those with 12 guage wire than you can use a 20 amp breaker. You can use too heavy of wire with a smaller breaker, but not the other way around. Finally, a 100 amp main service is pretty damn small. You sure have a lot of stuff being fed off of that.

Roger that! Obviously a single guy!

I didn't want to admit it, but I once got pulled over by no less than a half dozen park police for weaving in and out of cones in a parking lot being set up for a concert. I saw the convoy of cops at least a half mile behind me, and pulled over to let them catch up. When the cops got to me, they asked me if I knew how to drive in a parking lot. I told them "I would like to think I do, but then I guess we wouldn't be having the conversation if I did." They just told me that here in Maryland we don't drive that way (the Z still had California plates from a recent move) and let me go. Something to be said for being a polite middle aged white guy. Also I hate it when cops ask if you know why they pulled you over. Makes me feel like a 6 year old talking to my dad.

They had this guy on cable. He was chairing a town hall meeting of a type. What an arrogant loser. Turtle neck and long hair. He is obviously relishing all the attention this has generated. And yes, a tenured professor can be fired. All the University has to do is eliminate the entire "ethnic studies" department that he is the chair of. Doesn't sound like much of a loss.

I once bought a motorcycle that unknown to me had the VIN ground off the engine. Obviously stolen. But when the state of Washington acid etched the motor's serial number, it was not on record as being stolen. They issued me a new title. If the VIN is hot than forging the signatures sounds like a bad idea.

Doctor: I have some bad news, good news and some really bad news. Patient: What is it? Doctor: The bad news is you have cancer. Patient: Oh no! Is it curable? Doctor: That is the good news. It is curable. Patient: Oh thank God. What does the treatment entail? Doctor: Well that is the really bad news. Turn around and bend over....

He had to have known it was illegal when he started doing it. No sense complaining when you get caught. Pay the ticket and play the game better next time. He didn't get a ticket for doing donuts. He got a ticket for being dumb enough to do them in front of a cop. Laws are written for the dumbest among us. What if some 17 year old tries the same thing. But instead of an empty lot he does it in a crowded Wendy's lot? Or he hits a curb he couldn't see, damages Dad's car and bounces his girlfriend's head off the window in the process? Who gets sued in that case? I guess the law makers can't see any reason to allow it, so why not just take the safe route and make a law against it? Having said all that I do a donut coming into my driveway every time it snows.

MSA sells European spec springs that fit the stock vehicle. I used those for several years on my daily driver 240. Also had all urethane suspension components and MSA front and rear sway bars. The Euro spec springs were suppose to lower the car about an inch, but the old springs were so worn I regained about a half inch of ride height. I still have the stock rubber isolators at the top of each strut. MSA claims the Euro springs are something link 10 to 15% stiffer than the US supplied springs. Overall a very nice street set. Car runs flat in the turns, handles most speed bumps and is comfortable on rough surfaces or long drives. The MSA sway bars are probably a little too big for the Euro springs. At least that is what I remember from my autocrossing days. I think Phantom is running a very similar set up (or was) with his LS1 equiped car. The big advantage of coil overs is suppose to the the wider range of spring rates available for them. But in your case you won't need that so they sound like they would be a waste of money.

As they say it is only worth what someone will pay for it. Ony real way to tell that is to actually sell it or to see what cars like it have gone for recently. The only 240's I see asking that price are either all originals or something with an exotic or high tech engine. Cars simply do not sell for anywhere near the price of their upgrades. For $10K with that engine I would expect problem free mechanicals and near show quality finish. But that is just me.

At one point I was paying $25 a year for my Z. State Farm gave me that rate since I had the house and 2 other vehicles on the same policy. I later found out that the $25/year only covered the car if I never took it out of the garage. Pays to read the fine print. The insurance basically just kept me from getting in trouble with the state's mandatory insurance nazis. You really have to look at the coverage levels. Suprised your brother has "full coverage" on a 280. Most insurance companies don't issue standard "full coverage" if the car is over 15 years old. I don't have any experience with stated value policies, but on my 8 year old truck the difference between "full coverage" and liability is insignificant. Insurance costs can be significantly reduced if the car is not a daily driver. They can play games with rates on one vehicle if they know they are making up the difference somewhere else. A 1 year difference in age or being married can also cut your costs by half or more. Your job/education level can also make a difference. Where you live can easily double the rates too, so don't know how meaningful rates from all over the country will be to you. Get out the phone book and make a half dozen phone calls and you will answer your own question. In my case Gieco charges about half what any other insurance company wanted, but they are pretty restrictive in who they take. We shop around every year just to make sure we are getting the best deal.

J Mortenson (sp?) once posted a link selling a "power brute" unit that went for $550. I have also seen links to the Kaaz website that had carriers around the same price. I think the Kaaz was for a 240sx, but the guys in one HybridZ thread were saying they should fit in an R200. Then there are the Nismo units that list at something like $750 new. Poke through some old threads. The motorsport units are probably Quaiffes. Those are the torque biasing (ATB) gleason-torsen type LSD's and not clutch types. That is what I would be buying if I wasn't so cheap. From what I understand, the stock turbo units are fine. Used ones are just hard to find and you need to make sure the clutches aren't worn out.

You are joking, right? Those are not the early 240 SU's. They must be the crappy 73+ smog units that everyone hated. Also WAY overpriced. Post a want to buy ad here or on zcar.com. You should be able to pick up a complete set of the early carbs for $100. I have seen them go for less.

There are several places that sell clutch type LSD units in the $500 to $600 range. Might have to drop a few hundred more to get it installed into an existing open diff if you are like me and intimidated by that sort of thing. No reason to sell children. The only real advantage to a stock JY find is to save $$. But since most JY's seem to know what those things are worth, I would think a new one is a much better path than buying a used one that probably needs rebuilding anyway.

Just guessing but the throttle by wire should be as easy as hooking a rheostat up to the gas pedal. I would bet the "A handy reference guide (88959384 - LS1 Guide) is available to help install the engine in older cars with minimal guesswork" tells how. Would much rather route a wire through the firewall than throttle cable. That engine looks like a good deal until you start adding up everything needed to finish it off. No ECU or wiring harness, not to mention accessories, 02 sensors, etc. Probably still a good deal but with tranny I could see that $6K list price quickly doubling.

78 vs. earlier has been discussed in great detail. Quite a few members actually believe the 78 is a better choice for a V8 than say a 240. Biggest item is minimize rust. Low rust 280's are generally cheaper and do have better (albeit maybe not adequate) chassis stiffening. They are also less likely to have the dreaded exhaust fume issue of the 240's. As for seats, look into a junk yard swap of factory seats. Miata seats are very popular for a Z. There are quite a few others if you "read read read". Coil overs on the street? Another topic with a lot of opinions. Not absolutely necessary IF you can find the spring rates you want. Coil overs give you many more choices in spring rates, allow you to more easily adjust your ride height and can give you more clearance to allow running a slightly wider tire. If your are not going hard core on spring rates than MSA or VB both have good stock compatible springs. Dash: good luck. I have heard of new dashes going for upwards of $1000. There is one thread about a carbon fiber dash, but it was labeled "race only". Not sure why. Other than that dash caps are the only real cost effective way to retain a stock appearance. LS1: can't believe you have looked at too many threads! A LOT of opinions here. Quite a few members swear by this engine for a Z. The advantages are many and the only real disadvantages might be cost. I personally prefer the looks of the older engines and OBDII smog restictions can be an issue depending on where you live and how legal you want to be. Go back and read some of Phantom's and Mike Kelly's posts about the HP potential and driving manners of the engine. Also wasn't it MAS280 who dropped his quarter mile time significantly when he swapped his LT1 for an LS1? As for air dams and spoilers, totally a matter of personal preference. I would start looking at member's websites. Most guys don't mind bragging about where they got their stuff.

yes, according to this article some vehicles are much better than others. http://www.bridger.us/2002/12/16/CrashTestingMINICooperVsFordF150 Glad your kids are alright. I have a few years before I need to worry about my kids driving but that hasn't prevented me from starting early. Nice, safe Toyota minivan ought to be a good first beater.

Gotta admire the guys attitude. Kinda like posting pics from your colonoscopy.

Man that is dedication. How does one hold 3 liters of wine in long enough to get hammered?