Pop N Wood

I think most women would say we don't need to be told these things, that men do all of the above by instinct. So true the comment about their mothers....

Before adding a hotter cam I would add the 2 extra cylinders first.

I have had an account here for the past 3 years even though it has been over 5 years since my Z had plates. 15 years ago I was single and living in an apartment in LA. I had a Z with every smog legal bolt on I could find, and still I was putting away $1000 a month because I didn't now what else to spend it on. Now I am married, single income, 2 kids, college fund, 401 K, house on east coast. Just finished putting the addition on this summer. I own furniture now (took care of that extra money!) Few more home projects and it will be time to work on my Z. I put the Z on hold the last several years partly because of money, but mostly because my kids were only going to be preschoolers for a few short years. Now that they are older (4 and 8), I will not feel as guilty about investing time in the Z. Kids start to get their own lives after they get older. In the mean time I have the project pretty well planed out. Bought some used brakes and a spoiler off this site. Built a workshop in the garage, including a workbench made out of pipe to practice welding. Have gotten all the necessary tools via the last 10 years of Christmas's and birthdays. You are way ahead of most guys. The paint and interior are the most expensive parts. Hell, just having a Z and a garage to work on it is light years beyond some. My advice is to set modest goals for the first hybrid. Drop a stock LT1 or even 305 in for starters. Should be able to do that for less than $2k. Once that is on the road, you can do the "damn honey, the thing burned a valve. It is going to be $1500 for a replacement set of 195cc CNC ported AFR's..." At least that is my plan

Oh, and if you are a white male applying in a large urban area you had better be extremely well qualified. College, military experience, a relative already on the force. Minorities and women get bonus points regardless of qualifications. It puts white males at a disadvantage that is hard to overcome. Not passing judgement. Simply stating a fact. Sharpshooter is nice but probably doesn't do a lot for the average patrolman. The average officer involved shooting occurs at ranges of less than 10 feet over open terrain. Most of the used cop revolvers I see in gun stores don't have much in the way of sights. Also be wary of what you might be doing as a new officer. New LA county sherriff's spend the first part of their carreers working the jail. Honestly I can't believe how far this thread digressed from the original question. Don't worry about society's impression of cops and do what is right for you. Can be a stable carreer as long as you understand what you are getting yourself into before you start.

I have read several good posts on this site about LT-240SX swaps.

From internet explorer select Files -> Save As. When the dialog box pops up select "Web Page, Complete" for the "Save As Type:" option I think that gets the whole thread (and not just the single page being viewed).

What engine are we talking, LS1 or JTR original recipe? Also any estimates on cost? I will be making an engine commitment later this year so don't want to make any promises I won't keep.

Here is the old thread I was thinking about. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=93637&highlight=fuse Not sure if anyone has used it. I went on the MSA site and all they sell is stock replacement boxes, for $159 US. Ouch. Did find this thread with some other options http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=87375&page=2&pp=10

Z fuse boxes are prone to melting. Maybe something is abnormally wrong or maybe it was just time for it to melt. There are links for aftermarket boxes which use more modern fuses. I think MSA sells an improved box also.

Your car is still subject to federal regulations. You may be at a low risk of getting caught, but without the equipment you are still illegal. Maryland requires a "saftey inspection" any time the car is sold. Part of the safety check looks for required emissions equipment. State laws can change without notice so you are not totally free from risk.

He says he is willing to spend a year in jail rather than support the war. Gotta admire his dedication to his beliefs, no matter how misguided. At least he is being man enough to stand up and face the music (unlike the pussies fleeing the country). I think people should act on their conscience. But he also needed to factor in his previous commitment, whether he feels he has “grown up†since his enlistment or not. This war is not so clearly black and white, good or bad, to outweigh that. I would like to think he will live to regret this as a mistake. But being anti war didn’t hurt Tom Hayden much. I can’t believe his conscientious objector argument will hold water when he was little more than a cab driver. CO status just means you are moved to a non-combat roll to finish out your obligation. The military has procedures for just this reason. If he does jail time it will be for going AWOL and missing movement, not refusing to be a part of killing someone. The CO crap seems like an afterthought on his part.

Weren't the failed TC rods also on modified suspensions? I thought the one common factor was poly bushings which did not pivot and caused the TC rod to flex.

Hate to say search because the search function doesn't seem to be working well lately, but all of this has been discussed in some detail. You will want all the info you will pick up reading about the rust. The bushings in particular you can save big $$ on. I can't remember the site but I am sure you will come across it as you read old posts.

Try a tank of premium gas and see if that makes a difference.

Commit an act of selfless charity and people start bitching like it was their birthright.

Mike Kelly... Rebel and BB administrators' worst nightmare!!!

What do you guys think about this engine for a 240 http://www.golenengineservice.com/displayEngine2.cfm?EngineID=28 Pretty much everything I could want in a non LSx engine. AFR heads, "fair" idle quality, big azz torque curve, 4 bolt mains, forged parts, roller everything. Figure I could do a Caprice engine swap to get the car smog legal and on the road relatively cheap, then strip the electronics and whatever trans to this long block. Obviously will need an LT4 intake, but how much of the other stuff do you think I could reuse? Seems weird to me they have a cast steel crank and all forged everything else. Car will be a weekend cruiser so want something "streetable". This engine seems about as extreme as I would like to go. Did some google searches and the company seems to have a good rep.

I would replace the wheel cylinders. Some things aren't worth risking.

My 1970 240 had the non retractable kind of belts. I pulled a set of belts out of a Mazda 808. Had to have a parts store bend the mounting brackets in a press, but other than that it was "bolt in". Got to a junk yard and think outside the box a bit. Paid next to nothing for the stuff from the Mazda because the JY knew no one you ever want the belts from that POS.

Exactly. If the voltage regulator is bad it will put too many volts to the battery and even that $165 optima will cook in short order. The old Z's had external, mechanical voltage regulators. If they stick, or if the voltage sensing wire is shorting out, you will get too much voltage. You need to replace the voltage regulator separately from the alternator. The newer alternators have electronic voltage regulators built into the alternator itself. Hook a volt meter up to the car. You can get ones that plug right into the cigarette lighter. Should stay around 14 Volts. The mechanical regulators will jump around a bit, but the average voltage should not go much over 14 volts.

Both of my children are miracle babies. There wasn't much anyone could say that helped us with the uncertainty at the time we were going through it. Just understand how much you will appreciate your children when they come. Hard to put in words.

Varies with the state, but the Maryland MVA will give you a name, address and even social security number if you have a plate number and $5.

Just pointing out that the 4 valve per cylinder, DOHC 4 banger is "old technology". Nothing new or high about it. And I do believe 1918 is the correct year. There were other "production" cars of the era with the same technology, I would imagine on all sides of the ocean.

The 1918 Stutz Bearcats had DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder 4 bangers in a production vehicle.