Pop N Wood

Nice thing about that is you can even recalibrate your speedo if you need to. Just put the MPH ticks at the correct locations.

David Vizard had a good write up on water injection in his old, old, old book about building performance motors with economy. What water injection does is allow you to run more timing or compression in an engine that would otherwise detonate without it. It was really huge back in the 70's for guys who had the old high compression muscle cars who suddenly found 100 octane gas unavailable. Without the water injection they had to serious retard engine timing and THAT caused a significant power loss. So the water injection doesn't increase power, but the tuning you can do as a result of it does. It is definitely not BS. WWII fighter planes all had water injection in the later part of the war. In a modern engine with a computer controlled knock sensor and variable boost, I would think water injection would allow the computer to automatically dial in more boost/timing. Vizard also pointed out that WI is typically not needed while cruising. It is only needed during periods of heavy throttle.

Trouble is I got looking at the Pontiac site and the 05 GTO is starting to look like a hell of a car. Only $35K, leather, LSD, independent suspension, 400 HP 25 MPG on the highway, and my truck is looking pretty ratty... Then I got thinking, the LT1 I was planing had a final hot rod configuration that looked a lot like the LS2. 400 HP, aluminum, distributorless, tunable. And that is just the starting point. No name brand parts but who cares? Gotta get a budget together...

This ebay ad http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7957617697&category=33615 is selling a 350 HP LS1 out of an 04 GTO and says it has a Tremec close ratio 6 speed. How viable would this be for a Z? Do we now have a good, stock alternative to the T56 weight and gear ratio wise? Anyone know if this trans has the notchy shifter everyone complains about? The ad also says "The GTO has excellent accessory placement making it a great choice for hot rod applications" Buy it now for $6300, but only 19 hundred miles Just got the gear ratios for the GTO Tremec, BUT also says it is a T56 Tremec T56 First: 2.97 Second: 2.07 Third: 1.43 Fourth: 1.00 Fifth: 0.84 Sixth: 0.57 Reverse: 3.28 Final drive ratio: 3.46:1 EDIT Never mind. answered my own question And the ratios above are not very close. A little more tolarent of a lower rear gear maybe.

Aspirin and Ibupropin (sp?) like Advil have anti inflammatory properties that will help reduce swelling. Take those over Tylenol. Burbon helps thin the blood also.

Any question with the words "twin turbo" in it.

Just don't try taking my screen name

Doah. Now we all look like goomers! Good info anyway.

Pete Paraska did something similar where he used (I believe) Eastwood gas tank liner. After half a dozen strandings on the side of the road he finally realized where all the rubber clogging his fuel pump was coming from. Maybe his experience was different, but I would be careful with pour in gas tank liners. I assume you have checked the local salvage yards?

Any one see rides the other night where Leno put an LS7 into a 66 Olds Toranado. Oh, and he added a couple of turbos. Must suck to have money.

Pretty car

I read about that. Guess the firefox people were trying to allow alternate characters to be used for URL's to support Chinese characters. What were they thinking? For once Microsoft has the supperior product.

Yeah! Let's get Mikey!

Which seems to be the underlying theme in all your logic. Trust me, that is not a good assumption on which to base your beliefs. Not everyone thinks in such a simple minded fashion. Guess I predicted your responses about right.

Pete Paraska said his Ford GT fan drew 35 amps on high speed. Depending upon which Tarus fan you have 40 amps doesn't sound unreasonable. I think other people have listed current draws and on low speed I don't remember them being that high. High speeds I thought were around that number. If you have the two speed fan can you get away with the low speed only? Make sure you power the fan via a relay that is wired to the battery with heavy gauge wire. This might reduce the current draw by reducing the voltage drop leading up to the fan. The fan running while on the freeway may or may not be an issue, but one thing is for sure it is unreasonable to expect the fan to never run or why would you have it in the first place? Thus you need to address the problem anyway. Battery capacity is not an issue since ideally you want the alternator to be able to supply the full load when running. If you rely on the battery to make up for a too small alternator, then driving at night with the heater and wipers on will eventually leave you with a dead battery. First thing to do is clean the battery posts. Doesn't matter if they look clean, take a wire brush to them anyway. Also check all connections and grounds to make sure they are tight with no corrosion. I had a similar problem on a dead stock econobox which was cleared up by wire brushing the battery posts. If all of the above is good, then there is a chance that the alternator is just too small for such a heavy load. Any chance of swapping to a higher amp unit?

The real question is who has balls enough to let just anyone drive their car?

If you right mouse click on the link included in the email, it will give you the true URL you are logging into. Know that no legitimate company will do what that one asked, but also a good habit is to never click on the link in the email. Type the link in manually or cut and paste it into the address bar.

I follow your dream. Looks like a clean car and properly tricked out will make a good classic. But having gone through high school in the 70's it is funny to see this interest in old mopars. I can remember looking for a car back in 1975 and wondering who would buy all these front heavy, gas sucking, hemi cuda's? Look who is laughing now. You gotta admit, in 1975 if you drove that to high school everyone would wonder if your mom wanted her car back. Couldn't expect to get much leg with that!! But now that it is so old and still so clean, guess you could really turn some heads. Good find.

LT1's can be had cheap. Here is a complete 94 trans am LT1 with auto trans, computer, engine accessories, wiring harness...all the engine parts needed to drop it in a Z and get it running http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7952895646&category=33615 They were asking only $1700 and it didn't sell. Throw in a complete JTR kit, headers, drive shaft and an electric fan and I think you could do the swap for $2500 to $3000. The LT1's have a good flowing fuel injection that can be modded to handle 400+ HP no problem. Plus they are pre OBDII so if smog legal is an issue with you they are easier to do. Aluminum heads with JTR mount means no front end weight gain. LT1's have roller cams. The front mounted distributor means no modifications to the hood latch. Unless you already have a deal on an early gen SBC or have a stong aversion to FI it is hard to imagine beating this combo (cost wise anyway) The corvette engines will cost another $1200 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7952893549&category=33615 The real question now days is LS vs LT1 engines. They sell on ebay with manual tranmissions in the 3500-4000 range. Can't use the JTR method for mounting, but the engines have better HP potential (dollar for dollar). BTW, that ebay mounting kit has come up on this site before. The guy from JTR even commented on it. Total rip off. My suggestion is to buy directly from the source (http://www.jagsthatrun.com) or get the manual and make your own. Don't support that rip off on ebay.

One could argue it was over 50% of the American voters who put him in office. But I don't suppose you would accept that. One could also argue that American oil companies had more to gain by Iraq remaining under sanctions, seeing as how they have no oil interests there. But I suppose you would find fault with that argument. One could go further and argue that even oil company employees and defense contractors are fathers and mothers who have no interest in seeing their children or the children of anyone they know sent off to kill or be killed for the prospect of a few dollars. But I imagine you would be skeptical of that also. Ever notice how once you reject the idea that all companies are focused on is the bottom line that business school curriculum becomes total folly? Keep that idea in the back of your mind when you learn to regurgitate the over simplifications your professors will require you to know to get your degree. The real world is much more complicated and some times motives can be attributed to something other than pure greed. But dollars are so much easier to quantify, hence buisness school's infatuation with that theory.

Seen the latest defense budget? Cutting all types of acquisition programs to shift more money to replacing what is being torn up and blown up in Iraq. Gonna shake the status quo. I will sure be happy when we start seeing those "profits" rather than just war dead, record oil prices and budget deficits.

I held off posting in this thread because I wasn't sure if you were serious or not. Gotta agree with all the guys above. The rust and interior on that car make putting any money into it a very hard sell. If the one or two parts you plan to keep are the gas cap and maybe shifter knob, then maybe you are headed in the right direction. Just one man's opinion.

When given the option, I don't like doing a lot of work on my daily driver. Sort of defeats the whole purpose if you are constantly working on it. If you can afford it I would consider selling both and buying something newer/better shape. Of course, there were times in my life I simply couldn't afford a reliable car and just had to make do with what I had.

The Ford 302 weights less than the 6 cylinder it replaced. If your suspension is bottomed out it must be for some other reason. Maybe the previous owner took a torch or cut a coil from the springs to lower the car? Lots of people sell coil overs and stock replacement springs that work well with a Ford 302. Hit the Ford V8 forum, look at some of the posters there and check their web sites/old posts. Should tell you everything you could want to know and more. Also try a search on spring rates in the suspension forum. More good info. Or since Dan's post crossed in front of mine, take his advice, meet with them and pick their brains.

It sounds like you are aware of the different generations of Chevy "350's". Just want to make 100 % certain you realize the JTR manual is only directly applicable to the pre LS series of engines (pre 1998?) The newer engines have a different mounting scheme so the JTR mounting plates will not work. Also you won't need new front springs. The added weight of the V8 will not require that. You may want to add stiffer springs to improve handling. But even then the added weight is not an issue. It would seem to me the transmission cross member should work directly. You set the final mounting points once the engine is in and the drive line angles are set.