Pop N Wood

I don't think I would reuse any of the old bolts (if that is what you are implying). Matter of fact, I would probably replace every CV bolt I could lay a wrench on. I hope you didn't damage the threads on any of the bolt holes.

I would try car paste wax. If it doesn't work you can strip the wax by washing with liquid dish soap. I know wax cleans up file marks in raw aluminum perfectly.

Yeah, heat is the way to go. A paint stripper probably would have worked too. But I read in a recent hot rod that dripping wax on the hot parts also helps ease the break. I have never tried it but sounds trick.

You will use the flux core wire again if you every have to weld outside with a slight breeze. But agreed. Gas is the only way to go. The plain wire is cheaper than flux core too so only you get the bottle paid for cost is a push.

I have read articles saying plugs are made out of different materials. I remember them saying Autolites use harder material and thus live longer. Champions are softer and lose metal quicker. But some people feel plugs ignite the mixture when small bits of the plug electrode vaporize. They theorized plugs are a lot like tires. Use a softer plug for better performance but shorter life. But I did try Bosch Platniums in my stock 240 and the engine did not like them. Have run NGK's ever since.

Take the Grumpyette approach. Build a 383 bottom end, but then use a more radical cam and intake to move the power curve up. This way you end up with more total HP but the stroker retains enough torque to make the engine streetable. Why not build a 400? I thought 400 blocks were getting harder to come by, where as 350 blocks and 383 stroker kits are sold at K Mart (practically). I guess the difference would be price?

I feel your pain. I looked long and hard for sideview mirrors and still didn't find exactly what I wanted. Like you I wanted something functional. This meant mirrors on both sides and something where the mirror moves inside the stationary outer casing (so they don't get bumped out of position in parking lots). I also wanted good visiblity. I eventually found a set at Motor Sport Auto (http://www.zcarparts.com/). They have a set that mounts to the window frame where wing windows use to be. They are square (which some people don't like), but they are solid, blend well with the body and offer excellent visiblity.

Looks plenty compact. I would think the torque right at the wheel would stress the Z front suspension, but would probably work on the rear of a live axle car. Hard to believe you could get 100 HP out of such a small motor even with one at each corner. Plus adding so much unsprung weight is generally not a good idea. But if it eliminates the rest of the drive train... Regenerative braking has been around since the first diesel electric locomotive was built. In modern trains, the diesel drives an electric generator that in turn powers electric motors at the wheels. The motors make equally good generators, so to brake you idle the diesel and put an electric load on the drive motors. Trains go one step further and put large electro-magnets on each side of wheels. This induces eddy currents in the spinning metal wheels further braking the train.

Ron Tyler lists the Dry weight of his LT1-T56 72 240Z as 2420 lbs. Thats with brake upgrades, R200, CV joints, coil overs and some strut tower bracing. Check out the link I posted above. This includes a full interior.

Sort of like all those cattle mutilations that took place out west many years ago.... Don't be so sure this has purely a terrestrial explanation ...

I am a EE. I design and build airborne radars for Northrop Grumman. Before that I was a reactor operator in the Navy. But with all that I wish I knew half as much about cars and engines as some of the guys on this site.

You know I was hesitant to answer this post because I just knew there were more experienced guys that should be answering. But since no one else was taking the bait I threw in what I knew. However, the original question wasn't "what subtle differences are there in the handling of a V8 Z to an inline 6 Z" but rather whether one will "sacrifice" handling with a V8. It is good to know that in line 6's are still so competitive in certain classes of racing (and worth pursuing the gauntlet being thrown), BUT I think everyone will agree that done right a V8 Z is still a very formidable corner carver? It is not like we are turning the car into the equivalent of a 60's Hemi Cuda. Getting back to JohnC's challenge: given my arguments, why do you think the inline 6's perform better than the V8 conversions?

If anything it should improve. Search the archives to peruse all the advantages of a JTR V8 swap. They are many. Try searching of "Scarab" to get some detailed handling info. For example, here is one site with a sweet LT1 Z: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~rontyler/Z.html Ron lists his weight distribution as 49% fron, 51% rear. Don't know if this was before or after he switched to the much lighter aluminum tank. (I think a stock Z is slightly more forward biased.) This car did not gain any appreciable weight and, while not listed, the V8 tends to lower the center of gravity. The FI LT1 should give excellent throttle response (with considerably more torque) at all RPM's which gives you more control over the car in turns. His suspension is far from stock. With a better suspension, no weight gain, better weight distribution, better throttle response, lower CG, etc. etc. etc. this should be one hell of a car on any road.

A Male or Female moan?

PVC won't melt, but the hot water will disolve it into a thick slurry that will gum up your engine. The problems with PVC pipe and hot water is well known. They use to refer to PVC plumbing as "class action" plumbing because after several years it disolved resulting in hundreds of class action lawsuits. Believe me, I know. My water heater had a PVC dip tube that dissolved, plugging the WH relief valve and eventually causing several water leaks throughout my house. Modern houses use CPVC. It is something different made specifically for hot water. Get a proper radiator hose before you trade one problem for a much worse one!!

Piss. Answered my own question http://www.osha-slc.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html Just one excerpt: They say it can be used as long as it is encased in something else (like buried). They go further to say it is illegal in many states. No big deal to me but a definite lawsuit issue to anyone running a commercial shop.

The 1/2 inch Shedule 40 pipe I used to plumb my garage is rated at 600 PSI. Says so right on the side of the pipe. I also have some 1/2 inch "Silver Line" PVC that is only rated at 315 PSI, but I didn't use that. I have seen other types of PVC that state very clearly "not for pressure". Perhaps is depends on what type of PVC you use? Would seem that a 600 PSI rating should provide a sufficient margin on a 125 PSI compressor. Why would compressed air be anymore stressful to the piping than water? Can anyone provide more details on exploding PVC? Kinda got me worried.

I am a strong advocate of quality tools. BUT I bought Harbor Freight's 17 inch drill press and I love it. It is better quality than either the Sears or Delta drill presses and was a good $100 less. Can't say anything good or bad about any of their other power tools because I haven't had the guts to buy one sight unseen.

I have that How to Hotrod and Race your Datsun book and the cages on the BRE racers where truely extreme!! I agree, they are probably the best you could do with a cage, but IMO they are way too extensive for my street machine. Those suckers have more pipes than the Alaskan pipeline. The ITS ariticle is extremely good in it's descriptions of the strengths and weaknesses of the Z unibody. Also how they tied the main hoop into the floor and stressing putting cross bracing to support the cage in a T bone is good to keep in mind. The first thing I thought of when reading the ITS article was the cage needs to be brought forward into the engine compartment. But that is the easy part since you don't have to work around the passengers.

For the small number of joints, couldn't you do the same thing as a tubing notcher with a grinder? I saw the notchers on Harbor Freight and the first thing I thought of is how quickly they must go through hole saw blades. Also a diagonal in the main hoop is an excellent idea, but I would rethink the X bars between the main hoop and the rear strut towers. Katman sent me a pretty good magazine article on Z car cages. I'll try emailing you a copy.

Where did this come from? Yeah, he may need more cooling capacity, BUT since his set up is not that far off from quite a few others who are not having problems, than that means he must have some other problem. I haven't heard much talk about the 1 speed Tarus fan, so I would do like quite a few others and get a 2 speed unit that is properly shrouded. Running a can or two of radiator flush through the system could not hurt either and get a new radiator cap if you haven't done so already. If this doesn't fix it, I would look into adding an oil cooler and a larger radiator.

Sorry to hear of your problems. Ironic how the original thread had him complaining of deadbeats. Your best hope is to convince the guy it is in his own best interest to come clean. Since the guy was running some type of buisness in Texas, perhaps you could find some way dirty his reputation around the people he lives and works with. Better buisness bureau is a place to start (although one without teeth). Maybe another member knows him personnally and can put in a request on your behalf? Or even help the guy box and ship the trans? I know it is too late for you, but makes paying an extra 3% to use paypal with a credit card seem like cheap insurance.

The starting fluid works perfectly. Just a little hazardous.

Cast iron or mild steel, you could braze a SS bung on either.

How do you know that "CC" means "CC/minute"?