Pop N Wood

I want one in my Z because I want to run dual exhaust out both rear corners. The fuel cells just seem more compact than trying to adapt a bizarre shaped tank designed for another car. If you look through the Summit catalog you will see you can get a tank of almost any size you want. For my Z the nice, rectangular shapes should provide a good fit. Also there is something to be said for starting with a brand new, unused, unrusted, fumeless tank instead of draining and trying to cut up an old tank full of fumes. I am sure other guys will chime in with a the safety advantages. I know you can get them foam filled also.

Not trying to flame anyone. But your post stated pretty unequivocally that it “couldn’t” be done. Whether is “shouldn’t” be done is an entirely different question. Also you seem to be assuming he is working with a stock engine. What if he was planing a turbo on a V8? Moving the turbo out of the engine bay “might” be the only option. Also I don’t think the insulation on the exhaust piping would be that demanding. I once worked in a nuke plant that had an in line, 20 cylinder Diesel that was over 20 feet long. Since the turbo was at the front of the beast that meant the exhaust from #20 cylinder had a good 20 feet of piping. Your comments about the length of the intake piping are valid. However, if you were to measure the length of piping through a typical intercooler set up I would imagine the total round trip length would be on the order of 6 feet or more. Not unlike the one way distance from the passenger’s seat to the intake manifold. All that said, I agree the best place for a turbo, especially on a performance car that wants some throttle response, is as close as possible to the exhaust ports. The farther away it is moved, the less efficient it will be and the more lag that will be incurred.

There are 2 pi radians in 360 degrees. It is really as simple as that. Just like feet and meters. They measure the same thing, just different units. One "revolution" is 360 degrees (one full turn). so 1 "Revolution per minute" = 360 degrees per 60 seconds = 6 deg per second = 0.1047 radians per second

Respectfully disagree. While far from ideal, as long as the exhaust piping back to the turbo is well insulated you should be able to develop boost. Remember, it is not the exhaust "velocity" that spins the turbine. It is the energy released when the hot exhaust gasses expand. Case in point, the Republic P-47 Thunderbolt, a WWII fighter, had a 2800 cubic inch radial in the front with the turbo back behind the cockpit half way to the tail of the plane. Probably a good 12 to 15 feet. The turbo was the size of a small refrigerator and the ducting looks like a furnace ducting! I have pictures but didn't find any on line.

You need to go to the doctor and get your medications adjusted or quit taking the damn things! Prescription anti-depressants are as lethal as most street drugs, and don’t you ever forget it. You shouldn’t be taking them unless you are properly monitored. Also most reputable doctors will not put you on such things unless you are actively seeing a mental health professional at the same time. You need to talk about this with your shrink, not a bunch of motor heads (no offence guys, we’re a smart bunch but this isn’t something you fool around with). And if you aren’t seeing a mental health professional, then get rid of your current doctor and find someone that knows what they are doing. Want a long term solution? Join the Marines. They will either make a man out of you or put you out of your misery.

BTW, to convert acceleration into G's simply divide by 1 G (32 Ft/sec/sec)!!

Speed = acceleration multiplied by time. Thus if you were accelerating at say 32 feet/sec/sec, then after 10 seconds you would be going 320 feet per second (or 218 MPH). But, in the case of a piston, the linear acceleration is constantly changing, thus you need to integrate the acceleration as a function of time. If would be a straight forward trigonometric calculation to produces a closed form solution of the piston speed and acceleration as a function of RPM., rod length, stroke and crankshaft degrees BTDC. Or simply give Grumpy a call and let him post a link (or several) with all the details.

My neighbor brought home a pontiac bonneville with the supercharged 3.8 litre motor. Man, that is a sweet looking package and it sure moves that heavy car well. Don't know how much such an engine would cost, but shouldn't be too bad. Would make the Z a good road ralley car...should have excellent throttle response (something harder to get with a turbo) BTW, what is so magic about 25 MPG? That is about all an early Z got in stock form to begin with. If you're worried about $$ then stick with the stock engine. The amount of money you will save a year by getting 25 MPG instead of 20 or even 15 MPG is peanuts. So the only other reason to worry about mileage is to save the planet (I am not putting it down, something to think about), at which point why are you driving a sports car?

I thought OBDII allows program updates via software? In fact, I think it is a requirement. So all 95 and newer LT1's should be reprogramable via laptop. Why are you "burning a chip" with OBDII?

I would use the channel rather than the tubing. It will be near impossible to paint the inside of the tubing. Unless you plan on getting everything plated, at which point it will be cheaper to buy a manufactured trailer. Also why use a tubing notcher on a trailer? Just butt the square cut pipe to the other and fill in the gap with several passes of the welder. I wouldn't do a roll cage this way, but I did a workbench and believe me it is plenty strong. And yes, Mark Twain was very well versed on the bible. He referenced it frequently in his writings (and was a frequent critic of it too). Doesn't make his phrasing of it in the English vernacular any less quotable. His famous quote that applies to Hybrid Z is "Necessity is the mother of taking chances."

Yeah, need more info. Do the lights and electrical work with the engine off? The engine cranks over fine (plenty of battery)? Once it starts, do the lights go completely out at idle? Or just get dim?

Hey, I have some slang none of the street gang understands: "Went to work today and pickup up my paycheck to pay my child support..."

If you have no power they why are you messing with the starter? The place to start is the battery. Pull if off, clean the terminals and hook it up a battery charger for a couple of hours. Hook up a test light to check for life or take it back to the same place that checked your starter and have them check the battery. If all is well, then put it back into the car and see if the headlights/horn/turn signals/something electrical works. If still nothing, then start checking the wiring/fuseable links or come back here for more help.

My dad worked for the railroad. they use to turn the gas only on and throw the torch into a snow bank. After awile, pull the torch out by the hoses and toss in a road flare. He said it worked best if you got good and liquored up first.

Man that is nice. Does it pass the katman test? Wonder what percentage of the stock interior panels (including dash) will fit? (sorry to steal this thread, but I don't know the answer to your question)

Try opening a Barbie for your daughter. They must give the packagers an extra fish head for every plastic coated steel twist tie they warp around each appendage. Do they really need a wire twist tie on Barbie's purse? And for some reason they actual sew hard pieces of plastic to hold the hair to the packaging so the he-man approach is guaranteed to produce a cascade of tears when you hand over a bald doll.

Good to know we can have an open exchange of factual information in an adult fashion.

With a blower then 650 HP might still be reasonably streetable. I guess it depends on your defintion of "reasonable". The limited traction on a Z will prevent using all those ponies and torque anyway. But boy howdy would that be fun!! Also, if you are going to build a stroker with a blower, why start with a high HP crate motor to begin with? You are going to have to replace all of the internals to get the most out of the forced induction, so why not start from scratch? Also, is a 383 stroker really a good starting point for a blower motor? Do you give up any bottom end strength by machining parts for the longer stroke? Someone educate me.

Why pay $1700 to port a set of stock heads when you can get a set of AFR heads for less? Not trying to be flippant. I really want to know.

Tri power set ups were not progressive. All three carbs were synced just like a set of triple webers. I have also read many a magazine that says they got better economy and performance out of a basic 4 barrel set up than a tri power.

Had a similar concern. In here is a pretty good picture someone posted of a fuel cell using the stock filler location. Someone else even managed to use the stock filler location yet run a muffler underneath it. Here, read about it. http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=8;t=000699#000000

I wouldn't be too concerned about the U joints either. This topic has gone around several times. There is enough uncertainty about the CV's being stronger than the U joints that it has led to several "discussions". I second the advice about the R180 above. Run it until it starts to go or until you find a killer deal on the R200 of your choice. Good luck on the R200 LSD. The option is popular enough that most sellers know how much what they have is worth. Also be careful in that many times used ones need rebuilding. A number of guys install R230's, but that brings it's own set of headaches. Another option is the Phantom Grip as a budget LSD. After reading these posts for some time, it looks like the Quaiffe is probably one of the better options, even at the price. But don't believe me, spend some time searching the archives.

Soot tells me it is too rich. Way too rich. White smoke when cold or during starts usually means bad valve seals. Look at your plugs and check for oil fouling.

The catch mechanism on a 240 is physically different from the later models (and most modern cars as well). They simply do not work as well as the later versions. Don't know how much car flex has to do with it. The hinges on the 240's are also a weak point. Get a bit of door droop when it is opened. The 240's do flex considerably. Mine has paint cracks at the top of the C pillars. From what I have read this is common. Pete P's subframe connectors should remedy that.

Alright, who has the CNC industrial laser??? Don't ya just hate other guys alway having more tools than you.