Pop N Wood

Come on, John. Tell us how you REALLY feel.

Schwarzkopf didn't say we should cool our heels. He said: Huge difference. As bad as a gulf war II will be, it will be beyond imagination if we wait until the area goes nuclear.

Damn. Someone call the po-lease! It is almost like a theft in progress!

Man, you need to check on your own posts! http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=002056 Mark says the driver's side is reverse threaded. If any of the thread is exposed, then look at it carefully to determine which way it needs to turn. If you can't get the nut off, then you have no hope of seperating the tie rod. If it won't thread off, use a nut splitter or hot wrench (torch) to get it off (don't destroy your knuckle). Then get the right sized fork. The inner part of the U should be just wider than the tapered bolt the nut goes onto. The fork goes between the tie rod end and the knuckle (where the rubber boot is) with the U of the fork straddling the bolt. It should go about half way down the U then stop. If it hits the bottom of the U then the fork is too wide. Then wack the end of the fork. This will wedge the tapered part of the fork between the knuckle and the rod end pushing them apart. Vibration is the key. Rapping on the knuckle while trying to force the two parts apart will help vibrate the press fit. Heating the knuckle part will make it expand and help the process. But none of this will do any good if you can't get the nut off first.

You do realize that an electric water pump will use the same amount of engine HP as a mechanical. An electric will just do it by loading down the alternator. An electric fan can free up HP since they don't have to run all the time. That is not the case with a water pump.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38649 The forks are tapered like a wedge. Take off the castle nut, wedge the pickle fork between the tie rod end and the link arm and hammer on the back end of the fork. The wedge pushes the tie rod out of the arm.

Try wedging a screw driver across the solenoid terminals (careful, the car might start). Could be dirty contacts in the solenoid.

Damn, Grumpy. Did women and small children run in terror when you drove that car down the street?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5983 Only $17 but a super heavy duty unit. Weights about 10 pounds. This one won't cut anything under about and inch and a half.

Maybe related to this thread http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=7;t=001306#000000

You mean like Pete's? ]http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/VariousPics6Dec2000.htm[/url] Man, I just realized (again) what an awsome engine that is!!! Whoops. Just rechecked your post. You asked about the MSA mount. Pretty sure Pete's is JTR. That pic is still worth looking at.

I guess if I could rig up some type of suspension height sensor right on the struts that could be viewed while driving. A ruler and a video camera? That way you could drive at steady speeds and measure the change in suspension travel to determine lift or downforce. Would be a good testbed for different spoilers/air dams.

Try 3 feet in Maryland. People always complain about building inspectors, but as a homeowner I have always found them helpful. Draw up some rough sketches including things like the depth and make up of your footers and take them to the building inspectors office. They will tell you what you need to do (which is generally minimal compared to the way I overbuild things). From there you can make your own decisions. For insurance purposes you may want to go through the permit process anyway.

Isn't it also true the torque biasing diffs (like the Quaiffes) will look like an open diff with the wheel test?

I read the RAM 350 was built to be a super easy install requiring only a power line to the FI. I think the computer even mounts on the engine. But this means no O2 sensor so runs open loop only. Have read about kits to add the O2 sensor for closed loop operation, but there was some draw back to that. But for the same $8000 list price of just the engine and trans listed you could buy a used 1996 Camaro with an fuel injected aluminum head LT1 and 6 speed trans and still have enough money left over to have someone else pull the engine and install it in your Z. You could then use the additional $1000 - $2000 you were going to spend on clutch, starter, radiator, driveshaft etc etc to finish off your crate engine and apply it to suspension/brake upgrades.

I want an LT1 and have similar goals. Just curious if the set up you described will get you there. Have heard a lot of positive comments concerning the bang for the buck of the hotcam kit, but don't really know what the HP potential is.

I know my December of 1970 240 had no rear bar.

Creating down force is good, but from that aerodynamic article Doug posted, I think preventing lift is the key. The article says the smooth flow over the smooth, uninterrupted hatch acts like a plane wing to actually lift the rear of the car. Makes me wonder if the classic Z rear window louvers would help. How do you measure lift on a moving car? I just bought a BRE style spoiler. The BRE racers were incredibly successful. Figure those guys must know what they were doing.

Isn't aviation gas an option? Plenty of local airports around.

Just last night I was reading one of Vizard's books "Performance with Economy" (I think that was the title) and they gave charts that did just what you are asking. I think the book is out of print, but if he had it I am sure someone else does. The book also has an excellent write up on water injection. Really could have added a lot of detail to one of the recent threads on the subject.

Exactly what the article said.

The question was how to hook up the e brakes, not whether it had them. I just bought a set of Ross's 240sx rear disks and the calipers have ebrake connections. But I haven't looked into the details of connecting them yet. I have always liked the look of Mike's adjustable control arms, but they look like a bit much for my street only machine. I personally wouldn't know what to do with all that flexibility. But I think Mike's comments about adjustablity is the key. I know at one point I looked into getting my rear wheels aligned and the shop quoted me a price of something like $300. Mainly because he would need a hammer to adjust anything. They would probably pay for themselves on a car with a slight amount of body damage. The other selling point for a street only guy like me would be packaging them in a complete suspension package like Arizona Z car does. They sell the control arms, struts and 4 wheel disks as an assembly (basically a complete suspension), but at the time it was something like $1500 per CORNER. Offer everything in a lightened package with optional powder coat/chrome plating at a more reasonable price and you'll make me wish I was single again.

http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=000585 Saw a lot of this in the Navy with Phillipine women. Some of them worked out, some didn't, but most never got through all the paperwork. The travel channel has a show that follows some guy on his trip to meet Russian brides. It wasn't quite like people imagine. The girls were all pretty, but they were also smart and most of them seemed to be looking for something serious. About all you can do is tell your bud what your concerns are and make sure he is going into it eyes open. Beyond that just be a friend.

Man, are you on the wrong site. "Need" is a very poor argument. If we followed your line of reasoning we would all be trading in our Z's for bus passes and renting the Honda Insights for the occasional road trip out of town. I am sure Hillary and her friends would argue there is no "need" to ever modify a car from stock. And obviously since they personally can't see a "need", then no one else could possibly have such a "need". Thus it is up to the government to protect people from their own "stupidity" and outlaw it. We are talking past each other here (and having some fun in the process). I think this thread has clearly spelled out the issues with trying to get 500 HP out of a Z engine. But as long as the person doing it goes into it knowing what the challanges are, then there is no point getting judgemental about it. And for your assault weapon remark (once again, Hillary comes to mind), probably best to leave that for a different site altogether. While there are always two sides to everything, I say don't buy into the media ignorance on the topic. I can see a very real "need" for such weapons, and so did the framers of our constitution.

A 500 HP car is incapabile of doing harm in and of itself. Or are you a Hillary fan and believe people can't be trusted to use something responsiblly? Don't know about stupid. Now I could see using a phrase such as "overkill", "unusable", "waste of money", "misguided effort", "not streetable", "a total pig to drive in traffic", "poorly engineered and executed project because you put alot of power into a car that will never be able to use it"... Nothing wrong with building something you will never be able to use. Artist do it all the time.