Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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you can buy kits to make LS1s bolt into gen 1 sbc mounts. so buy JTR mounts and then buy this other kit. that is if you cant weld in motor mounts!
This has been talked about on here before. It was decided that bolting an extender plate to an extender plate was probably a bad idea. Plus you would have to move the alternator from the stock F body location.
Or is this something you have already done?
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It will run right down the driveway if I pull the wheel chocks.
It ran up to last July when I pulled the motor. Hopefully just a couple three months till it runs again.
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If you search through some old posts you will find several people who complain that the John's Cars LS manual could be more clearly written.
But there are enough people who have done it that pretty much any question you have will be answered here.
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Definitely an issue with the float/needle valve not shutting off properly. I had that happen before and it was dirt in the needle valve. I rebuilt the carb (a rochester) and put in a new needle valve. It started overflowing again. Took out the new needle valve from the cheap rebuild kit and replaced it with the old one and all was good.
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Gorgeous car. Reminds me of what I once wanted my 69 Camaro convertible to look like.
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Do you know if the JTR headers will clear the K frame on the passenger's side? Because i don't think it would the way my LS motor is sitting. The driver's side header comes out behind the TC cups. But on the other side I would worry about header and starter clearance.
Also I would think seriously about reinforcing the TC cups where the K frame pieces attach to them. I think the weight of the engine will flex that end of the frame.
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don't temp me man.
i don't want to have to prove you wrong.
and yes, one of the boys keeps backing into my pelvis. it's almost as if he's trying to make a gettaway through one of the long dark halways.
Well. Maybe a couple of gentle tugs will straighten things out for you.
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Maybe we can tell you if one is hanging lower than the other
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Did you try turning all the pieces by hand to check for excessive friction? Is a brake locking up? does everything turn smoothly?
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Can anyone give me a heads up on how I remove the big black plastic oil fill tube on the valve cover of my LS2? Does it screw off or do I need to pull the valve cover to get to a retaining nut or something?
thanks
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I ran a JTR radiator after 2 weeks i promptly yanked it out and trashed it as it never kept my z cool enough to drive even on a 50 degree day .
So i ordered a 2 row from summit and have had no problems with it yet . Just some advice for when ya install the JTR radiator .
Jason
Not doubting what you say, but you are the first person who I have heard say that. Most guys have good results with the JTR radiator.
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Yeah baby. Duct tape bandages on half your fingers. You are a sheet metal worker.!
BTW, even a piece of white paper on the dash of my car causes a distracting glare in the windsheild. You will undoubtably be forced to paint or cover up the portion under the glass.
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You do realize this is a car site?
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TonyD
This is the first I have heard of your pics. If you could find the link I for one would love to see them.
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Want to trade straight up - your ash tray for my center console as a guinea pig?
No. Not my ash tray. Figure by the time my kids are college age the ash tray will pay for their first year.
I might be interested in just buying your center console if the price is reasonable
You mean a shifter like this:
Or just an extender like this
That was my original plan, but the way the engine ended up the shaft out of the trans is hitting sheet metal. I will need to move the shifter opening forward about an inch just to get out of second gear. The 70 console overlaps the sheet metal opening by a good inch so there is just not much hope for it. The option might be to completely remove the cross piece then come up with some type of half cover for the ash tray opening.
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Looks like they pulled that ad in hurry.
Must have been good.
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References, references, references. And references. Hire an independant inspector or supervise the job yourself if you are knowledgeable enough.
While I was laid-off a few years ago, I designed and built a 1000 square foot two story extension on my house including a livingroom, den, and master suite. I got permits, hired all the trades myself and supervised, supervised, supervised. I did all the interior work myself. No matter what, there will be road blocks and forks in the road. YOU, the owner, or a representative, needs to be there to make decisions and assure quality. Trust yourself, and trust references a little.
Well that is what I ended up doing. I adding a sun room to the back of the house myself. I would have done the electrical myself but the county won't give a permit unless you have a union card.
But pulling off an entire roof and adding a second level using 26' gluelams is not exactly a DIY weekend type job.
The few people who I had references for were too busy to be bothered and simply too expensive. Housing prices have tripled in this region in the last 7-8 years so contractors are being kept busy with all the home equity loans. Makes a lot of room for a bunch of would be contractors to start out.
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I hope you don't leave that cloth dust bag connected to the saw.
Seems like a fire hazard.
Just use less pressure and cut more slowly when cutting thicker metal. That is what I do, but with a hand held wood saw.
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I have no direct experience with RB alternators. However, if it is an internally regulated alternator there should be a voltage sensing wire coming out of the alternator. This wire is usually hooked into the wiring harness near the volt gage somewhere. The voltage regulator in the alternator will then adjust the alternator output to maintain a constant 14 or so volts at that point.
If you have the voltage sensing wire hooked to the wrong place, say somewhere near the fan electrical inlet, then the large current draw through the fan wire will cause a voltage drop along the wire. The voltage regulator will then pump up the alt output to maintain 14 volts at the end of the wire. This means the alternator may have to put out 17 volts to compensate for the say 3 volt drop along the wire.
So my recommendation is to check where the voltage sensing wire from the alternator is going and see if the alternator is maintaining the correct voltage at that point.
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We at one point thought about adding a second level to part of our house. Placed an internet request on a home improvement site and got one quote at $75K and a second at $55k. Both companies had clean BBB pages, but couldn't find much else to check them out. Asked around and found a coworker who's husband did replacement windows for a living. Asked her who they would hire to do such a job. They gave us the name of a guy who didn't normally work in our county, but he said he would consider it for what amounted to $120K.
At that point I gave up on the idea. How in the hell do you know who to trust?
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Peyton played a hell of a game yesterday. I was massively impressed.
Given the way the Colts played yesterday, if you think they are overrated then you must have them rated high indeed.
And this is from a guy who lives near Baltimore. The colts are not well liked around here.
Source for eletric DA sander?
in Non Tech Board
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No