Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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Hey lazycyril, thanks for the link
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Do a search on convertible. There is a place in CA that made a Z convertible kit and sold bolt in subframe connectors. Looked like a good product.
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If you have replaced the front pads check them. If not replace them.
Double emphasis of this point. Can't imagine how an MC could be operating at 50% effectiveness for 4 years. Those pigs either work or they don't.
Do a search for good street pad, put them on, replace the rotors and bed the pads. Get some stainless steel brake lines while you are at it. See what that does. There was a thread just the other week where someone fixed their brake effectieness with better pads.
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When I was 15 it was intercepting Dad's Olds Vista Cruiser on the way to the salvage heap and trying to make that bad boy go fast. That made me start buying all the Hot Rod issue pontificating about the under appreciated performance potential of the big block Olds motors.
Then one day, after burning up the 425 CI big block I transplanted to the Olds, I managed to buy a convertible 69 Camaro with a whopping 230 CI 6 banger. From there on my performance dreams were whatever Chevy parts I could dream to put into that car.
From your venacular it looks like you feel the furture of hotrodding is being decided by the 15 year olds. In that sense not much has changed. No legitimate 15 year old can afford an 800 HP anything, so their first car is usually whatever cast away Mom and Dad let them use. Hence Honda's and other rice racers. Looking around my neighborhood I guess the next generation will be hotrodding minivans and SUV's.
Have to wonder if the V8 will disappear again like it did in the late 70's. Today's V8's are better than ever, but there are really so few cars using them compared to the early 70's.
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Seems like if you have enough money for wire wheels, you have enough for a second set of track tires mounted on lightweight performance wheels anyway.
It is nice to have a dedicated set of track tire/wheels to get the more agressive tire compounds.
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I would imagine they are looking for career officiers. If you look at it as "putting your life on hold", then it probably isn't the right line of work for you.
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You probably should have reposted your symptoms from that first post.
Do you have the factory chin pan installed? The early Z's had a turbulence problem underneath the vehicle that disrupted the airflow through the radiator and caused them to overheat at speed. I put one on my otherwise stock Z and it made a difference.
My understanding of the cowl hoods is exactly as you say. The base of the windsheild is a high pressure area and will force air into the engine compartment at speed. The middle of the hood should have some nice, smooth airflow which I would think will cause a low pressure region to extract air from the engine compartment.
If I were you I would not put holes in both places. Other wise couldn't it just recirc the air?
The last HybridZ word of warning is to make sure your lower radiator hose has the spring inside of it so it doesn't collapse with engine speed.
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That hind quarter shot of that first Z made me wet myself.
Man, my car has along way to go.
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This is the thread that made me decide to use the cuperonickle lines. There are other posts about how hard stainless steel line is to form without some high $$ tools. So the 90-10 stuff seemed like a good way to go.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111952&highlight=automec
I ordered from the automec UK site in the above thread. There prices were half what the FedHill guys wanted (also linked in the above thread). But with $20 UK taxes and $66 shipping it was only modestly cheaper ordering from the UK site. My worry now is delivery time from the UK. Let's see how long it takes to get here.
I ordered 3/16 brake line and some 3/8 inch fuel line, along with a bunch of flare fittings, for my brake, fuel and clutch lines. Both the FedHill and automec sites had good selection of fittings that Jegs and Summit don't seem to have. Wish I could find a local speed shop with bins of all the different style and size of fittings.
Like mentioned in the link above, I agree that the Z brakes use M10x1 flare fittings. I had to order a few other sizes to mate with the Wilwood clutch MC, prop valve and my throw out bearing. But at only a buck or so each I hopefully got more than I will need.
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Not sure if you are talking about the brake hoses or the whole system. If it is just the hoses, then MSA, Black Dragon Auto and I think Modern Motorsports as well as a host of others sell direct SS replacements for the Z rubber hoses. I got mine from MSA (http://www.zcarparts.com)
If you are talking about replacing the entire system, hardlines and all, then search HybridZ for "AN fittings". You can get the M10x1 to AN-3 adapters at Jegs or Summit. This will allow you to hook off the shelf AN flex lines to the stock calipers. Check out Jegs or Summit's on line catalog.
I just ordered some copper-nickel hardline and a handfull of fittings to replumb my 240's hardlines. Plan on keeping it all metric and reusing the MSA SS flex lines at each corner.
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When I first bought my house in a new housing development, I use to make a circuit of all the construction dumpsters. It is amazing how much new or miscut material gets thrown out by construction crews.
My wife would laugh at me, but to this day I can still go to my stock pile of OEM baseboards that the home stores quit carrying years ago.
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You might want to read around. Search on solid diff mount. Experiences with solid diff mounts vary. On my 240 it was so loud I got physically ill after 10 minutes of driving. Other people had a less severe noise problem.
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Don't know if I would be so worried about reinforcing that piece so it never breaks again (because it probably never will) as I would be worried about what the NEXT thing to break will be.
I would do a JohnC on that thing and completely restore all the suspension bolts and parts.
The blast cabinet is your friend
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Werd. still wouldn't mind having one. Its less suspicious to have an extension cord coming from a neighbors house than' date=' you syphoning out their gas. lol
EDIT: Shouldn't this thread be in the Non-tech section?[/quote']
LOL. That would make it cost effective. Knew a guy in SoCal who had an electric car and plugged it in during the day at the company parking garage. The company even highlighted his commuting choice in the company newspaper. Guess it never dawned on them who was paying the bill.
A gallon of gas contains 36 KW-Hrs of energy. Right now BGE electric rates are 11 cents per kilowat hour. That is about $4 a gallon for the equivalent amount of electrical energy. Electric motors are more efficient and have the option of regenerative braking. From what I have read figure it takes half the electricity as gas, so at BGE prices the “fuel†costs for an electric charger is about the equivalent of paying $2/gallon for gas.
And forget a solar recharger. When the Hydrogen threads were circulating, I figured with efficiencies of today’s solar panels it would take something like a 20 foot by 30 foot solar cell to have any hope of generating the equivalent of even 1 gallon of gas a day. Something like that would costs 10’s of thousands of dollars. It would also require your car to be at home during daylight hours to recharge
250 mile/charge is pretty good, but only if you drive it like a Prius on a fair day. Turn on the AC and my guess is you will probably get half that range. The first time the snow flys figure maybe a fifth or even a tenth of that range. These numbers will go down as the batteries age.
My guess there is a reason they put these higher capacity batteries in and $80K car. Could it be because the batteries themselves cost too much to get in a $20K car? And what is the life expectancy of those batteries? What will the replacement costs be?
US electricity is generated primarily from non-foreign oil. But the US electric grid is hardly bursting with excess capacity. In this age surge power is generated primarily from natural gas powered generators. Unfortunately natural gas is made from foreign oil. I don’t buy the non-polluting aspects of coal electric plants (those bastards are dirty!) and people still turn rabid at the thought of building nuc plants.
Cute car but don’t buy the sales hype.
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That is almost $1200 less than SDPC
Almost sounds too good to be true.
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Electric cars have existed for years. What makes you guys think this car is going to be anymore succesfull than an EV1?
The guy who wrote that article is a moron. This thing, if it even sellls 1000 units, will do absolutely zero to reduce our dependence on foreign oil. Fuel cost will not be zero because electricity is expensive. The car will not be zero emmissions because it will still be charged by an electric plant fueled by some type of fossil fuel or nuclear power.
Face it, all these guys did was put a bunch of lap top batteries and an electric motor in a Lotus. Big whoop. Cushman has been doing it for decades.
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it better not be a halfshaft, i got those moser units that cost me a grip, so if its those, im going to be pissed and demand a replacement, but i dont think its them, they seem intact, i just really hope its the stubbies, since i got the 280z in the trunk lol
'You need to do less typing and more wrenching. That is the only way you will find out for sure.
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Damn. Another thing to feel inadequate about.
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Are you guys seeing temps climb while idling or while moving?
Most guys say their electric fans never run while moving. And even when they do, the fan usually only runs on low speed.
I dropped all of $18.50 at a pick and pull on a fan from a Lincoln. If you already have the wiring in place for a high current electric fan, then it doesn't sound like an expensive experiment to get a Ford two speed fan and try that out.
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The top pic looks like a solid diff mount to me also
Don't know what the second thing is
The third thing is offset camber adjustable control arm bushings. Have something similar on the front of my 240
The last pic are strut bar mounting brackets. They bolt to the top of the strut towers and have a threaded tube that goes between them. Notice the reverse threaded heim joint.
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My hand held circle saw did just fine cutting up an 8" x 3 foot piece of 3/16" plate steel. I got some pretty damn accurate cuts using a piece of angle iron as a saw guide. Just clamped it to the plate with a couple of vice grips. The Sears saw has an aluminum guard so nothing melts. I do have to wear gloves or I will burn my hand on the guard, and I do have to wait for the saw to cool sometimes.
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When I was in the Navy I had a buddy who re enlisted just to get enough money to trade his TR7 for a TR8.
No offense to those who really liked that car, but I can think of better things to trade 2 years of my life for.
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...99% of them have no story line and ....
Eh?
I suppose you buy Playboy for the articles, too.
Yeah, the articles.
LSX Crate engines
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
FWIW I noticed SDPC dropped the price of their carb'd LS2 motor by $700 since I bought mine.
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/120/products/272567/Crate-Engine-LS2-Carbureted-364ci-440hp.htm
Maybe GM is starting to move some quantity.
The new engine has several advantages, like the better 243 heads, stronger block, better PCV venting and not to mention a 4" bore. The down side is you end up buying almost everything new. There are not ANY of these motor in the pick an pulls, so even things like alternator mounts and belt tensioner must be gotten from ebay or gm direct.
Now if I can just finish this kitchen remodel to get time to finish mounting the engine.