![](https://forums.hybridz.org/uploads/set_resources_1/84c1e40ea0e759e3f1505eb1788ddf3c_pattern.png)
Pop N Wood
-
Posts
3012 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Pop N Wood
-
-
I know MSA use to carry them. Check with them or black dragon auto.
But if I remember correctly only the early early boosters could be rebuilt. The later models were only sold as complete units.
-
I work for an engineering defense contractor. We have gotten resumes with cover letters written in text messaging/myspace type slang.
Not sure how the resumes even made it out of HR.
-
If you turn 2000 RPM at 70 mph with your 3.7 rear, then a 4.11 will put you at 2200 while a 3.36 will put you at 1800 RPM for the same mph. Another way to look at is the 4.11 rear in 6th will put you somewhere between 5th and 6th of your current set up.
Guess you need to ask yourself how comfortable the car feels at speed with the current gearing, then go up or down from there.
I imagine with your engine those would all seem like comfortable RPM's.
Next you need to figure out how quickly you have to shift out of first when you are getting on it. Lower gearing will make traction that much harder to control.
-
One of the better investments I have made. Only time it doesn't work is when I am too lazy to pull it out. Even useful for catching rust and debris when unbolting parts.
Plus I always keep a covered bucket of saw dust or kitty litter handy. Taking a moment to close up open containers is always a good idea that seem hard to do.
-
Spend a few minutes reading in the drivetrain section' date=' and you'll educate yourself enough to where there shouldn't be any doubt on your part....
I think you should look at pics of what a LSD carrier looks like, then just pull the rear cover off the diff and have a look, if its out of the car.....[/quote']
Me three.
Gaskets are cheap
-
I think the main purpose of a driveshaft loop is to keep the car from pole vaulting on a broken driveshaft. Not really an issue with half shafts.
Don't see how a single loop of steel will keep a shaft from beating the snot out of the tunnel.
-
Man I really like the look of that.
-
Z's have always looked that way to me.
-
I posted the link without looking at it. I modified the link in the previous post to go to the Japanese page rather than the British page.
-
Put these two ahead of MSA. Much much more responsive customer service
http://www.blackdragonauto.com/ OEM and performance Z parts
http://www.courtesyparts.com/ Mail order Nissan parts
-
From the site http://zhome.com/
Z Car Transmission & Rear End Gearing
Contributed By: the Members of the IZCC
Produced by: Carl Beck IZCC #260
Special Thanks to: Steve Golik-IZCC #356, Tom Bell-IZCC #2802 & Ross Corrigan-IZCC # 255
The Purpose of this page is to give you a quick reference listing of the gear ratios used in the various models of the Z Car. We will try to include both transmission and rear end gear ratios FYI.
As of 12 Mar. 2000 -cjb
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Standard Differentials & Rear Gear Ratio's
This is the list that we came up with, after discussion on the Z Car List, and review by the subscribers there.
Standard Rear End's as Delivered From The Factory 1969-1989 :
240Z 70-73 MT (3.364) (R180)
240Z 70-73 MT 5spd. (3.900) (R180) - non US
240Z 71-73 Auto (3.545) (R180)
260Z 74 MT (3.364) (R180)
260Z 74 Auto (3.545) (R180)
280Z 75-76 (3.545) (R200)
280Z 77-78 MT (3.545) (R200)
280Z 77-78 Auto (3.545) (R180)
280ZX 79 MT,4 Spd,2 Seater (3.364) (R180)
280ZX 79 MT,5 Spd,2 Seater (3.364) (R180)
280ZX 79 All With Automatic(3.545) (R180)
280ZX 79 MT,4 Spd,4 Seater (3.364) (R200)
280ZX 79 MT,5 Spd,4 Seater (3.7) (R200)
280ZX-GL 79 (3.7) (R200)
280ZX 80 MT,2 Seater (3.545) (R180)
280ZX 80 Automatic 2/4Seat (3.545) (R180)
280ZX 80 MT,4 Seater (3.9) (R200)
280ZX-GL 80 (3.9) (R200)
280ZX 81-83 Automatic all (3.545) (R180)
280ZX 81-83 Turbo - all (3.545) (R200)
280ZX 81-83 MT (3.9) (R200)
- - - - 300ZX's - - - - - -- -
300ZX 84-86 MT and A/T (3.7) (R200)
300ZX 84-86 Turbo MT and A/T (3.54) (R200)
300ZX 87-89 MT and A/T (3.9 ) (R200)
300ZX 87-89 MT and A/T (3.9 ) (R200)
300ZX 87-89 Turbo MT and A/T (3.7 ) (R200)
Note Turbos:
#1) after 4/87 only-(3.7 Clutch Type LSD)
2) 88 All White SS used a 3.7 Viscous Coupling LSD)
3) LSD Unites Came With Finned Rear Covers
Additional Comments: a) Viscous Coupling LSD requires special splined half shafts -
84-87 R200's can be used in earlier cars, but require modifications they are not direct bolt in swapable to 240/260/280Z/280ZX's c) 84-89 R200's used a 12mm bolt in the ring gear - earlier R200 used a 10mm bolt in the ring gear, so you can not swap Gear Sets with the older R200's
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Standard Transmissions & Gear Ratio's
1970 through 1971 Factory Four/Five Speed Transmission Ratios
70/71 three piece case
U.S. Non-U.S.
F4W71A FS5C71A
1. 3.549 2.957
2. 2.197 1.858
3. 1.420 1.311
4. 1.000 1.000
5. n/a 0.852
RearGear 3.364 3.900
1972 through 1976 Factory Four/Five Speed Transmission Ratios
72/76 two piece case
U.S. Non-US
F4W71B FS5C71B
1. 3.592 2.906
2. 2.246 1.902
3. 1.415 1.308
4. 1.000 1.000
5 n/a 0.864
RearGear 3.36 3.900 (72 thru 76)
1977 through 1983 Factory Four/Five Speed Transmission Ratios Note: Ratios in 4spd.'s are the same as 5spd.'s For 1st-4th gears.
77-79 1980 81-83 Borg Warner T-5 {Turbo Only]
1 3.321 3.062 3.062 3.500
2 2.077 1.858 1.858 2.144
3 1.308 1.308 1.308 1.375
4 1.000 1.000 1.000 1.000
5 0.864 0.773 0.745 0.780
1984 Through 1989 Factory Five Speed and Auto Trans.
T5 Nissan FS5w71c auto auto
turbo turbo non-turbo non-turbo turbo
84-86 87-89 84-89 87-89 87-89
1 3.350 3.324 3.321 2.458
2 2.056 2.077 1.902 1.458
3 1.376 1.360 1.308 1.000
4 1.000 1.000 1.000
5 0.752 0.711 0.759
R 3.153 3.382 3.636 2.400
Special Note#1There was a 5 speed 720 truck('79-'85)transmission that will bolt into an L-6 car, that also has "lower" gearing. However, there were two other sets of different gear ratios available, depending on the truck model:
#1 #2 #3
1 3.592 3.321 3.592
2 2.246 2.077 2.057
3 1.415 1.308 1.361
4 1.000 1.000 1.000
5 0.813 0.833 0.813
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Factory Competition Transmissions 77 - 83
There were Factory Competition 5-Speeds available through NISSAN Competiton Dept. There were two overdrive Transmissions, and four with the direct drive (1:1 in fifth gear)
#1 #2 #3 #4 #5
32010-N3130 2.906 1.902 1.308 1.000 0.864 (close ratio)
32010-N3030 3.321 2.077 1.308 1.000 0.864 (wide ratio)
32010-N3220 2.818 1.973 1.470 1.192 1.000
32010-N3221 2.348 1.601 1.296 1.138 1.000
32010-N3222 2.192 1.601 1.470 1.138 1.000
32010_N3201 3.321 2.270 1.601 1.240 1.000 (rally transmissions)
Notes: The overdrive (FS5C71B) and direct drive (F5C71B) transmissions utilize the Servo-type (steel) snycro mechanism. For a complete parts breakdown of the listed overdrive and direct drive transmissions see the Nissan Motorsports Schematic catalog (99996-M8015). The shift kit (99996-E3030) is required when installing any of the listed transmissions into 240Z's built up to 8/71.
FS5C71A Conversions:
These parts will allow the FS5C71A 5-spd transmission from the Datsun 2000 (SLR311) roadster to be adapted to any Z. The R200 flang assy (38210-N3103) is required on Z's built from 12/74 to 7/75.
30401-22010 Clutch Housing
32130-A7100 Tail Housing
32241-A0200 Main Shaft
32890-A0100* Striking Rod Assy.
37000-E4100 Driveshaft (to 8/71)
37000-E8710 Driveshaft (from 9/71)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
1990-96 300ZX Transmission For Both Turbo and NA.
The transmission model is RS5R30A.
The 300ZX model is the same for both the NA and TT, but Nissan relocated the starter in the TT, and changed the outer and inner front cases.
1st 3.214
2nd 1.925
3rd 1.302
4th 1.000
5th 0.752
Reverse 3.369
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please contact Carl Beck
With additions and or changes to this page.
-
Well, just had the cross member out to cut the L6 motor mounts off and no cracks in 18 years of using eccentric bushings. I will probably get rid of them when I do the bumpsteer mod in a year or two. I'll let you guys know should anything turn up.
Now broken TC rods, there have been several posts on those.
-
Bikes have their place. Where would all the young, otherwise healthy organ donors come from?
Emergency room techs don't call them donorcycles for nothing.
-
Most R180's are 3:36. Some R200's did come with 3:36 ratios, but they aren't very common and people who have them seem to know what they are worth.
This list shows some R230's diffs came in a 2.946 ratio. Would put your 50 MPH RPM at 2115. But expect to drop a grand or more doing an R230 swap.
An even better list of diff ratios is on this site http://zhome.com/, about half way down the left had side click on "Index Of Technical Articles "
I have seen several Z's where they swap a vette pumpkn in an otherwise stock rear suspension. Don't know what is involved with that swap, but you can get some high ratios in a vette rear. But probably not a cheap solution.
Is there an aftermarket overdrive you can add to the back of the TH350? But once again, I imagine not a cheap option.
My suggestion is just get a run of the mill 3.5 R200. 3.36 won't buy you much over the 3.5.
The ultimate solution is a T56....
-
What about mechanical secondaries?
holley's site says our light Z cars with low rear gearing are acceptable candidates for mechanical secondaries. Any one have experience with these?
-
Well, the z certainly isn't like the chevy Vega, which I had one that I put a 327 in and managed to pop the windshield out, but the z, from what I understand is prone to damage with high HP levels. I have searched and I have not seen a definitive answer to the question, but certainly I believe that 450HP is probably the threshold.
Whew. That's a relief. My motor is only rated at 446 HP.
Should be good to go.
-
Funny. GM recommended a 750 cfm carb with my 6.0L....
Guess heads and intake can make as much difference as displacement.
-
You could supercharge a Z for cheaper, get more HP, and it would weight less.
Might be cheaper, depending upon what kind of deals you get. Might even be more HP than a mild V8. But definitely will NOT weight less.
To attempt to answer the question, I don't know that there is any way to accurately estimate the cost of the incidentals with any accuracy. Every swap is different. The fact you have an engine and are not including that in the cost of the build makes your list pretty unique.
About the only way I know of is to build an exhaustive list and talley up the cost of each item. Then go back and adjust the values as you actually buy stuff.
-
Why are people so enamored with used LSD's when brand new power brutes sell for $550?
-
I have been running the eccentric bushings and ball and socket TC mounts you mention for the past 18 years. The "urethane" bushings that were causing all of the TC rod failures did not use the ball and socket. This meant the TC rod had to flex to allow the suspension to articulate. My guess is eventually the rods work hardened and snapped. Kind of like breaking a coat hanger by bending it repeatedly.
I don't know why you couldn't use the eccentric bushings with the relocated bumpsteer mod. But I don't see the point. Put the hole were it belongs and go back to stock or urethane bushings. If you have to rotate the eccentric bushings down, then that is the same as drilling the hole lower.
Supposedly the eccentric bushings can slip. They are not unsafe, but like I said if you are relocating the cross member pivot hole, just get rid of the eccentrics.
-
the JTR headers have bigger diameter primary tubes than the JCI ones.
Actually I am not sure why anyone would buy the JCI headers.
The JCI mount kit is suppose to be pretty good. Seem like a lot of money until you realize how much work it is to engineer your own. Besides, not everyone has the tools and patience to do it on their own. There is something to be said for getting the job done.
Making your own cross member is not that difficult.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105868
Just a lot more trial and error involved.
-
For only $11' date='000 you can have one of your very own!
Damn. Makes me feel pretty good about buying that LS2 crate motor, I should get the whole swap done, with all new parts, for only $500 more than that guy wants for a used motor
-
Going to a 3.36 rear will only drop your 50 mph RPM from 2800 to 2400. Your top speed will go to 104 mph.
The spider gears are the weak point in an open diff R180's. so if you go with some form of LSD it will hold up reasonably well depending on how you drive
But you will still be turning over 2400 RPM on the free way.
Best to start saving up for some type of overdrive transmission.
Probably not the answer you want to hear.
-
I'm not saying I don't have a girlfriend...just waiting until marriage.
we all know Big-phil as that crazy guy that rides motorcycles the wrong direction...up!
So what happens if you get there and you realize you don't like it?
Drag/Track Car Cage
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
I don't have the links handy at this computer, but I have read many sources that says using a torch to weld cromoly helps with the annealing process. They claim it is actually prefferable to TIG.
I will have to find the links.