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Pop N Wood

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Posts posted by Pop N Wood

  1. If you turn 2000 RPM at 70 mph with your 3.7 rear, then a 4.11 will put you at 2200 while a 3.36 will put you at 1800 RPM for the same mph. Another way to look at is the 4.11 rear in 6th will put you somewhere between 5th and 6th of your current set up.

     

    Guess you need to ask yourself how comfortable the car feels at speed with the current gearing, then go up or down from there.

     

    I imagine with your engine those would all seem like comfortable RPM's.

     

    Next you need to figure out how quickly you have to shift out of first when you are getting on it. Lower gearing will make traction that much harder to control.

  2. B000F5XQMO.01._AA280_SCLZZZZZZZ_V54944774_.jpg

     

    One of the better investments I have made. Only time it doesn't work is when I am too lazy to pull it out. Even useful for catching rust and debris when unbolting parts.

     

    Plus I always keep a covered bucket of saw dust or kitty litter handy. Taking a moment to close up open containers is always a good idea that seem hard to do.

  3. Spend a few minutes reading in the drivetrain section' date=' and you'll educate yourself enough to where there shouldn't be any doubt on your part....

     

    I think you should look at pics of what a LSD carrier looks like, then just pull the rear cover off the diff and have a look, if its out of the car.....[/quote']

     

    Me three.

     

    Gaskets are cheap

  4. I think the main purpose of a driveshaft loop is to keep the car from pole vaulting on a broken driveshaft. Not really an issue with half shafts.

     

    Don't see how a single loop of steel will keep a shaft from beating the snot out of the tunnel.

  5. From the site http://zhome.com/

     

    Z Car Transmission & Rear End Gearing

     

    Contributed By: the Members of the IZCC

    Produced by: Carl Beck IZCC #260

    Special Thanks to: Steve Golik-IZCC #356, Tom Bell-IZCC #2802 & Ross Corrigan-IZCC # 255

     

    The Purpose of this page is to give you a quick reference listing of the gear ratios used in the various models of the Z Car. We will try to include both transmission and rear end gear ratios FYI.

     

    As of 12 Mar. 2000 -cjb

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

     

    Standard Differentials & Rear Gear Ratio's

    This is the list that we came up with, after discussion on the Z Car List, and review by the subscribers there.

    Standard Rear End's as Delivered From The Factory 1969-1989 :

     

    240Z 70-73 MT (3.364) (R180)

    240Z 70-73 MT 5spd. (3.900) (R180) - non US

    240Z 71-73 Auto (3.545) (R180)

    260Z 74 MT (3.364) (R180)

    260Z 74 Auto (3.545) (R180)

    280Z 75-76 (3.545) (R200)

    280Z 77-78 MT (3.545) (R200)

    280Z 77-78 Auto (3.545) (R180)

     

    280ZX 79 MT,4 Spd,2 Seater (3.364) (R180)

    280ZX 79 MT,5 Spd,2 Seater (3.364) (R180)

    280ZX 79 All With Automatic(3.545) (R180)

    280ZX 79 MT,4 Spd,4 Seater (3.364) (R200)

    280ZX 79 MT,5 Spd,4 Seater (3.7) (R200)

    280ZX-GL 79 (3.7) (R200)

    280ZX 80 MT,2 Seater (3.545) (R180)

    280ZX 80 Automatic 2/4Seat (3.545) (R180)

    280ZX 80 MT,4 Seater (3.9) (R200)

    280ZX-GL 80 (3.9) (R200)

    280ZX 81-83 Automatic all (3.545) (R180)

    280ZX 81-83 Turbo - all (3.545) (R200)

    280ZX 81-83 MT (3.9) (R200)

     

    - - - - 300ZX's - - - - - -- -

     

    300ZX 84-86 MT and A/T (3.7) (R200)

    300ZX 84-86 Turbo MT and A/T (3.54) (R200)

    300ZX 87-89 MT and A/T (3.9 ) (R200)

    300ZX 87-89 MT and A/T (3.9 ) (R200)

    300ZX 87-89 Turbo MT and A/T (3.7 ) (R200)

    Note Turbos:

    #1) after 4/87 only-(3.7 Clutch Type LSD)

    2) 88 All White SS used a 3.7 Viscous Coupling LSD)

    3) LSD Unites Came With Finned Rear Covers

     

    Additional Comments: a) Viscous Coupling LSD requires special splined half shafts - B) 84-87 R200's can be used in earlier cars, but require modifications they are not direct bolt in swapable to 240/260/280Z/280ZX's c) 84-89 R200's used a 12mm bolt in the ring gear - earlier R200 used a 10mm bolt in the ring gear, so you can not swap Gear Sets with the older R200's

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

     

    Standard Transmissions & Gear Ratio's

    1970 through 1971 Factory Four/Five Speed Transmission Ratios

    70/71 three piece case

     

    U.S. Non-U.S.

    F4W71A FS5C71A

    1. 3.549 2.957

    2. 2.197 1.858

    3. 1.420 1.311

    4. 1.000 1.000

    5. n/a 0.852

     

    RearGear 3.364 3.900

     

    1972 through 1976 Factory Four/Five Speed Transmission Ratios

    72/76 two piece case

     

    U.S. Non-US

    F4W71B FS5C71B

    1. 3.592 2.906

    2. 2.246 1.902

    3. 1.415 1.308

    4. 1.000 1.000

    5 n/a 0.864

     

    RearGear 3.36 3.900 (72 thru 76)

     

     

    1977 through 1983 Factory Four/Five Speed Transmission Ratios Note: Ratios in 4spd.'s are the same as 5spd.'s For 1st-4th gears.

    77-79 1980 81-83 Borg Warner T-5 {Turbo Only]

     

    1 3.321 3.062 3.062 3.500

    2 2.077 1.858 1.858 2.144

    3 1.308 1.308 1.308 1.375

    4 1.000 1.000 1.000 1.000

    5 0.864 0.773 0.745 0.780

     

    1984 Through 1989 Factory Five Speed and Auto Trans.

     

    T5 Nissan FS5w71c auto auto

    turbo turbo non-turbo non-turbo turbo

    84-86 87-89 84-89 87-89 87-89

     

    1 3.350 3.324 3.321 2.458

    2 2.056 2.077 1.902 1.458

    3 1.376 1.360 1.308 1.000

    4 1.000 1.000 1.000

    5 0.752 0.711 0.759

    R 3.153 3.382 3.636 2.400

     

    Special Note#1There was a 5 speed 720 truck('79-'85)transmission that will bolt into an L-6 car, that also has "lower" gearing. However, there were two other sets of different gear ratios available, depending on the truck model:

     

    #1 #2 #3

    1 3.592 3.321 3.592

    2 2.246 2.077 2.057

    3 1.415 1.308 1.361

    4 1.000 1.000 1.000

    5 0.813 0.833 0.813

     

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Factory Competition Transmissions 77 - 83

    There were Factory Competition 5-Speeds available through NISSAN Competiton Dept. There were two overdrive Transmissions, and four with the direct drive (1:1 in fifth gear)

     

    #1 #2 #3 #4 #5

    32010-N3130 2.906 1.902 1.308 1.000 0.864 (close ratio)

    32010-N3030 3.321 2.077 1.308 1.000 0.864 (wide ratio)

    32010-N3220 2.818 1.973 1.470 1.192 1.000

    32010-N3221 2.348 1.601 1.296 1.138 1.000

    32010-N3222 2.192 1.601 1.470 1.138 1.000

    32010_N3201 3.321 2.270 1.601 1.240 1.000 (rally transmissions)

     

    Notes: The overdrive (FS5C71B) and direct drive (F5C71B) transmissions utilize the Servo-type (steel) snycro mechanism. For a complete parts breakdown of the listed overdrive and direct drive transmissions see the Nissan Motorsports Schematic catalog (99996-M8015). The shift kit (99996-E3030) is required when installing any of the listed transmissions into 240Z's built up to 8/71.

    FS5C71A Conversions:

    These parts will allow the FS5C71A 5-spd transmission from the Datsun 2000 (SLR311) roadster to be adapted to any Z. The R200 flang assy (38210-N3103) is required on Z's built from 12/74 to 7/75.

     

    30401-22010 Clutch Housing

    32130-A7100 Tail Housing

    32241-A0200 Main Shaft

    32890-A0100* Striking Rod Assy.

    37000-E4100 Driveshaft (to 8/71)

    37000-E8710 Driveshaft (from 9/71)

     

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

     

    1990-96 300ZX Transmission For Both Turbo and NA.

    The transmission model is RS5R30A.

    The 300ZX model is the same for both the NA and TT, but Nissan relocated the starter in the TT, and changed the outer and inner front cases.

     

    1st 3.214

    2nd 1.925

    3rd 1.302

    4th 1.000

    5th 0.752

     

    Reverse 3.369

     

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

     

    Please contact Carl Beck

     

    With additions and or changes to this page.

  6. Most R180's are 3:36. Some R200's did come with 3:36 ratios, but they aren't very common and people who have them seem to know what they are worth.

     

    This list shows some R230's diffs came in a 2.946 ratio. Would put your 50 MPH RPM at 2115. But expect to drop a grand or more doing an R230 swap.

     

    An even better list of diff ratios is on this site http://zhome.com/, about half way down the left had side click on "Index Of Technical Articles "

     

    I have seen several Z's where they swap a vette pumpkn in an otherwise stock rear suspension. Don't know what is involved with that swap, but you can get some high ratios in a vette rear. But probably not a cheap solution.

     

    Is there an aftermarket overdrive you can add to the back of the TH350? But once again, I imagine not a cheap option.

     

    My suggestion is just get a run of the mill 3.5 R200. 3.36 won't buy you much over the 3.5.

     

    The ultimate solution is a T56....

  7. Well, the z certainly isn't like the chevy Vega, which I had one that I put a 327 in and managed to pop the windshield out, but the z, from what I understand is prone to damage with high HP levels. I have searched and I have not seen a definitive answer to the question, but certainly I believe that 450HP is probably the threshold.

     

    Whew. That's a relief. My motor is only rated at 446 HP.

     

    Should be good to go.

  8. You could supercharge a Z for cheaper, get more HP, and it would weight less.

     

    Might be cheaper, depending upon what kind of deals you get. Might even be more HP than a mild V8. But definitely will NOT weight less.

     

    To attempt to answer the question, I don't know that there is any way to accurately estimate the cost of the incidentals with any accuracy. Every swap is different. The fact you have an engine and are not including that in the cost of the build makes your list pretty unique.

     

    About the only way I know of is to build an exhaustive list and talley up the cost of each item. Then go back and adjust the values as you actually buy stuff.

  9. I have been running the eccentric bushings and ball and socket TC mounts you mention for the past 18 years. The "urethane" bushings that were causing all of the TC rod failures did not use the ball and socket. This meant the TC rod had to flex to allow the suspension to articulate. My guess is eventually the rods work hardened and snapped. Kind of like breaking a coat hanger by bending it repeatedly.

     

    I don't know why you couldn't use the eccentric bushings with the relocated bumpsteer mod. But I don't see the point. Put the hole were it belongs and go back to stock or urethane bushings. If you have to rotate the eccentric bushings down, then that is the same as drilling the hole lower.

     

    Supposedly the eccentric bushings can slip. They are not unsafe, but like I said if you are relocating the cross member pivot hole, just get rid of the eccentrics.

  10. the JTR headers have bigger diameter primary tubes than the JCI ones.

     

    Actually I am not sure why anyone would buy the JCI headers.

     

    The JCI mount kit is suppose to be pretty good. Seem like a lot of money until you realize how much work it is to engineer your own. Besides, not everyone has the tools and patience to do it on their own. There is something to be said for getting the job done.

     

    Making your own cross member is not that difficult.

     

    http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105868

     

    Just a lot more trial and error involved.

  11.  

     

    Damn. Makes me feel pretty good about buying that LS2 crate motor, I should get the whole swap done, with all new parts, for only $500 more than that guy wants for a used motor

  12. Going to a 3.36 rear will only drop your 50 mph RPM from 2800 to 2400. Your top speed will go to 104 mph.

     

    The spider gears are the weak point in an open diff R180's. so if you go with some form of LSD it will hold up reasonably well depending on how you drive

     

    But you will still be turning over 2400 RPM on the free way.

     

    Best to start saving up for some type of overdrive transmission.

     

    Probably not the answer you want to hear.

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