Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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Keep in mind truck engines will require new accessories, oil pans and I believe intakes. Not a show stopper, but the cost can add up. You simply don't find many F body LS parts in salvage yards. That leaves ebay and GM direct.
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Another possiblity is some type of backfire causing the booster to overpressure. There is only so much vacuum you can pull, thus only so much damage that could possibly be done through "too much vacuum".
Do you still have the one way check valve in line to the booster? Maybe that needs to be replaced.
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I hope thats not in the gallery!
Then don't open the thread below
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Ill be the first to say: thats disgusting.
you think that is bad you should see the pictures of his ass
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Have you decided what mounts you are going to use yet?
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Z's like that went for more than $1000 in CA when I bought mine there 18 years ago. Hard to believe they got cheaper in all that time.
Looks promising. Go look at it, but don't make up your mind on it until you see it. Be prepared to leave empty handed if everything isn't as it seems.
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there has to be one in each thread. you are the winner for this one. i wasnt asking about the weight diffrence, i already posted that i know it weighs 100 lbs more, i was asking what other LS1 hybrid guys were getting for weight dist. thanks for being absolutly no help.
Maybe you need to go back and read the stickies at the top of the forums. Especially items #2 and #8 at the top of this forum. you know, the one titled "HYBRID Z RULES AND GUIDELINES- Everyone please read!".
Phantom is a long standing member who has helped countless people on this site. No call to be talking this kind of smack to him. What he said is absolutely correct. Weight distributions for LS and LT set ups have been posted numerous times. If you make a little effort you can easily find this info by yourself. Be a prick to well respected members and you will find help a little harder to come by.
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I remember the world being black and white one. Used it on the neighbor kids.
My 9 year old daughter found my Calvin and Hobbes books and became infatuated with them. She carried them to bed for over a month. Some things transcend the generations
I like to think the guy is sitting on some tropical island someone, secretly drawing the odd strip or two for his grandkids. Someday he will decide to publish 40 more volumes.
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I don't know if I could have let a comment like that slide though....
Yeah, he would have had to let you go, Aux. Can't have you upsetting his personal assistant with the 360's.
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Is it just me or does that look photoshopped to anyone else?
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Thanks! The second page gave me exactly the answer I was looking for
AL,
Use an Fbody alt bracket, (mounts it low and to the left). Machine the block side of that bracket to fit the shorter LS2 or corvette belt set-up.
Jeff S
check out these other two high mount options I got off LS1tech
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=159121&highlight=alternator
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=346338&highlight=vette+alternator+bracket
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ok, so the LQ4 weighs roughly 100 lbs more becuase its an iron block, what do you think that it would do to my weight dist? if the car was 100 lbs heavier in the front? what are you LS1 M6 guys comming up with weight/weight dist?
The iron block would make it the equivalent of an LT1 set up. Even with the iron block you can still have a slight rear wheel bias depending upon how everything is mounted.
I would not worry about weight bias with the iron block. It has been done too many times.
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You can post here all you want. I have read enough of your posts both here and on LS1tech that you could post pics of the wife's minivan and I wouldn't care.
Beautiful car.
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Don't get me wrong. None of my problems have been show stoppers. I would probably have the engine mounted by now if the JTR headers had been compatible with the vette style motor mounts. Once my motor mounts and cross member are welded I will know for sure just how well everything lines up. One this is for sure, this engine will sit farther back than most people's.
You realize the weight difference between the TKO and T56 is only 15-20 pounds, depending upon what T56 you are talking about and where you get the information.
What type of engine are you running? I had to go to Kiesler because I am using an LS2 motor. If you are running a first gen SBC, then my understanding is the GM version of the TKO should bolt up like it is a Muncie.
The huge advantage of the T56 with LS motors is you can use John's car kit and just bolt and go.
The main reason I went TKO over T56 is new T56's are just too expensive and I am afraid to buy a used one because of all the people who have gotten bad ones. Rebuilds on the T56 is almost as much as a new TKO in the first place. Plus, with the carb'd motor, being able to keep the stock gauges was a big savings. The last point is the better torque rating of the TKO.
I am a little concerned about the shifting, but right now I am more worried about how I will get an alternator in. One problem at a time.
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Thanks for the replies. I checked S&P and damn are they expensive. Believe it or not, they do not have an alternator only kit for the vette set up.
But I think I have a solution figured out. The vette belt runs 3/4 of an inch closer to the block than the F body accessories (and the truck pulleys are an inch or so farther out than that). Looks like the Fbody front bracket has enough meat on it that I can machine 3/4 of an inch off the engine side. This should put the bracket pulleys exactly in line with the crank pulley. Will have to fabricate a new rear bracket and rethread and shorten the mounting bolts. Since I don't have an alternator yet, the only remaining question is whether there will be any clearance issues moving the alternator back 3/4 of an inch.
If that doesn't work, a search on LS1tech revealed 2 different ways to mount the alternator above either head. Would be nice to have it up high like that for maintenance, but think I will like the look of the low mounted alternator better.
I will try to post pics later.
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Anyone have any pics of an alternator and WP only serpentine belt set up using the Corvette style accesories brackets?
Just found out my LS2 crate motor uses the Corvette style WP and harmonic balancer and won't work with the Camaro accesory brackets I just got from GM direct. thought about cutting an inch off the F body brackets, but think that will leave it too weak.
Any suggestions anyone?
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If I didn't know better I would swear this kid is a troll having some fun with us.
Why is this thread on this site?
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I'm sorry, I don't know how to post pictures on this forum.
A stciky on posting pics
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98049
Now that you mention it the continental was FWD. It has 16" blades. Well if I get bored maybe I will drop another $20 and add a third picture. Looking closer it looks like Dale had just trimmed off the right most tabs from the shroud.
That metal shroud hgeorge1 posted does look nice. Saw a guy on HP TV build one very similar in about 10 minutes with a plasma cutter. I worry a little about the flat shroud though. There was a recent thread where someone had trouble with such a shroud not funneling enough air through his radiator at speed. Let us know out it all works out.
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About the TKO' date='
You had kiesler mod it? what made you think you would need the modifications?
I have every single part figured out for my swap except the tranny.
I have no clue what im doing, but i have been lookin towards the a tko.
Have you got it installed yet? hows everything workin out?
is that the $2000 kit? + bellhousing?[/quote']
I didn't have Keisler mod it. They offer a HTOB kit to put a TKO in 60's muscle cars. I went with thier package because cost wise it looked competitive with the name brand HTOB's. Plus I figured it would be guaranteed to work with their LS specific bell housing.
Paid $1800 for the TKO, the bell was another $200.
Tranny is still sitting in the box. I am getting close to having the motor mounts done. Sort of lost the last month with a kitchen remodel and some minor surgery.
One issue with the TKO is it's shorter length. 3 1/2 inches shorter than the T56 is a lot to give up. Since I am building my own mounts, I should be able to get the engine far enough back that I can use the stock shifter hole without modification. Not sure exactly, but the lack of FI and the fact I have an LS2 rather than LS1 cleans up the back of the motor and will allow me to get the engine further back.
I have not checked tunnel clearance yet, but figured a tunnel massage was SOP for any V8 swap.
If I had it to do over I am not sure I would go with the Keisler bell and HTOB. The bell is all aluminum and looks awesome bolted to the shiny new engine. But, all they did to make it an “LS†housing is add one mounting bolt right at 12 o’clock. On the LS motors the bell can bolt to the back of the oil pan, but Keisler didn’t feel it was necessary to add those mounting bolts. They also ship an inspection cover with the LS bell even though it is not needed and in fact cannot be used. I am going to have to fab my own cover for about a 3 square inch area on the passangers side that is exposed.
My other Keisler bitch is my measured run out is 14 thousands. An $8 fix for offset dowel pins, but WTF? Hopefully the HTOB will work as well as they say, but I don’t like the way they machined half of the hydraulic fitting away to get the bearing through the housing. And try finding a metric M12x1 inverted flare fitting.
Alright, enough bitching. I am sure all will be forgotten once it is on the road.
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Quick update, ordered by 90-10 brake lines and two dozen fittings from Automec in the UK and they got them here in 6 days. This was in spite of the terrorist hair gel shutdown of flights.
Shipping was tough to swallow but service and product are all first rate. I now own enough M10x1 metric fittings to replumb the entire car.
Gotta get busy.
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Finally got some pics of the Taurus and Lincoln fans. The lincoln fan has blades about an inch and a half bigger in diameter while the sides of the shroud sit on the tank rails of the JTR radiator perfectly. Also got the relays from the Lincoln.
My 10 amp battery charger did not like running the fan in high speed!
Too wide Taurus fan, easy to pull
--edit--
Lincoln fan. thougjht it was the JTR recommended one, but turns out it is the same Taurus fan everyone else is running
--edit
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What's wrong with camo? Never need to wax it.
I preferr the desert camo myself.
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Holy Moly. I could see a little dress up play acting with that. Time to attack the Siegfried line and invade the motherland!
And hate to say it, but it will take more than a few stupid comments to get a girl built like that fired.
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Impact wrench is good. Long ass cheater bar you can STAND on works too.
Put two bolts in the pinion flange, wedge a long piece of steel, fence post or pipe between them then stand on it to keep the flange from turning. Use the breaker bar with a 6' piece of pipe as an extention. Put the socket on the nut so the cheater bar is a foot of the ground then stand on it.
Something will give, guarenteed.
Thus it begins, a 280z project
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
Did you really like that "How to Restore Your Datsun" book?
I have it, but don't know why I paid someone money for stating the obvious. There is really no useful information in that book.