Pop N Wood

I like em unholstered.

Seems like all cars started going away from window tracks in the 70's. Definitely lets you get the window glass more flush with the outside of the body.

Does anyone make an in dash DVD? A DVD can play MP3's also. With 8.5 GB on a two sided DVD compared to maybe a half gig on a CD, seems like one recordable DVD would hold all the MP3's I could need. BTW, there is no environmentally friendly way to dispose of a battery.

Sitting out in the open like that I can't believe there is much of anything that could be salvaged. What does a scrap metal yard pay for 2200# of recycled metal? I've had people try to give me Z's in better shape then that one.

Guess I have seen too many ads for cars that sell at a premium just because they have a bunch of trendy, brand name parts. Not saying a supra motor in a BMW is not a good match, but when kids see words like "twin turbo", "blitz", "greddy" and even BMW they seem to lose all sense of reality. The car could be a hacked together POS who's only redeeming feature is the builder went through the advertisers list of Sport Compact magazine to make sure he had something from every one of them. All I am saying is take a look at the vehicle itself to see if everything works and don't become overly enamored with the wish list of cool parts. My 2 cents. Take if for what it is worth.

Yes, yes and yes. Just keep searching. It's all here.

Too many ricer type buzzwords in the description. Might be well done, might be a poorly converted beater.

That VIN would make it probably a mid 1970. Mine is HLS30-17725 and it has a December 70 build date. No offense, but you sound rather new to this buying a used car thing. Have you seen the car, or is this an ebay type transaction? If the body is truely rust free (a HUGE if for a car from Indiana), then that alone might make the car worth the $3900. If it also had an uncracked dash, decent interior and ran well, then it would easily be worth 4K to 5K. It is one of the early ones so it does carry some price premium. Check the area where the rear hatch latch is for rust also. Rust in body panels is fairly easy to fix if that is all the farther it goes. Rust in the battery tray area, the floor pans or the frame rails means the car might be worth as little as a grand.

Man, I love wood!

If you do a search you will find a whole laundry list of technical differences between the old SBC and LS series engines. Like said above, the head geometry is vastly improved with the new engines. The thing that really has me sold on the LS engines is it takes nothing more than a cam and set of valve springs to put a crate LS1 engine over 500 HP. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100200&highlight=ls1+carb And from what I understand those are streetable HP. Smooth idle, good vacuum and easy starting. Try building a naturally asperated, 500 HP first gen SBC. Will be a fairly radical engine for erery day street use.

When I swapped an R200 into my 240 I originally got the wrong diff flange. the JY had no problem letting me swap the wrong diff flange for the correct one. If this is the only problem you encounter you have done well.

It takes a hell of a man to forge ahead after an experience like that. He's in my thoughts.

Agreed, they need to search. But that particular thread is probably the worst one you could have linked to. That "AbsoluteMoron" guy only got that screen name after being banned following a very ugly exchange with the moderators. I don't know if I would trust a manual from either one of the sources in that link.

I always thought it was only if they get clogged. Obviously only when a large pressure drop exists across them. They all do it so there must be a good reason for it. There are enough 300+ thousand mile vehicles running around with spin on filters that it is kind of hard to claim this is a poor design.

The rubber mount that holds the front of the differential down is a notorious weak spot on a Z. Get under there with a pry bar and see if you can lift the front of the diff up off the cross piece. 99% of the time this is the problem. If you can fabricate there are better solutions. do a search of diff mounts if you are interested. Also check the bolts holding the back of the diff to the mustache bar, as well as the bolts (and bushings) holding the mustache bar to the car. They can cause a clunk also. And while you are down there, check all your rear bushings and retorque every nut and bolt you can see. Replace anything that looks worn out.

The early edition JTR manual had a write up on the swap. An R200 swap is fairly simple on the early 240's. As an added benefit, the 71 Z's had the diff mounted too far forward. This causes the diff to not be in line with the rear axles. Putting in an R200 will correct this and help give you a smoother ride. You need the long nose diff, the heavier R200 mustache bar and the rear suspension crossmember that runs behind the diff. You will also need the longer driveshaft from the donor car. At that point every thing is bolt in. You simply turn the front diff mount isolator around 180 degrees to make it all work. The way to tell the early, pre 72 diff mounting position from the later one is the cross piece behind the diff. If it is straight, then it is in the forward position. If it has a bow in it, then it is the later setup.

Sorry to side track the discussion (although looks like Tony got the answer he needed), but this is someone interesting to me because I have always wondered how a prop valve works. The flow restrictor idea cygnusx1 says is spot on. If it is a restrictor, then it can only slow the onset of full rear brake pressure. But a regulator cannot be 100% correct either, or it would only allow one pressure to the brakes. You would lose all modulation. Maybe something inbetween?

Good one, oingo!!

Why do I have Alice's Restaurant running through my head? Seriously, if you find something like that I could use one. About the only way you will come close is to buy a used Escort or Neon, something no one else really wants. But the no money down will be an issue with a used car.

You need to make absolutely certain you have no vacuum leaks.

Think anyone ever noticed the missing sewer grate?

If you have every wiped your hand across a piece of aluminum and come away with a white, chalky powder, that is aluminum oxide. Rust. There are about a thousand different alloys of aluminum. One of the reasons the Mitisubishi Zero fighter was so successful and light was the alloy the Japanese come up with to make the wing spars. It is also the same reason there aren't many WWII zeros flying today. Over the years the aluminum has crystalized to the point where it can be litterally be scooped away with the blade of a screw driver.

What Sparks said. For the money you have left, you should consider 4x4 front brake upgrade with the vented rotor and maybe the Modern Motorsport 240sx rear disks. There are better brake kits out there, but this set up is one of the more cost effective. But, before you do any of that, check to make sure all of your stock stuff is in perfect working order. When you are sure of that, then get a complete urethane bushing kit. Make absolutely sure that kit includes a rigid steering coupler. Getting rid of the stock rubber isolator makes a huge difference in steering feel. If you start hitting the budget limit, you may want to opt out of the coilovers and just use some Arizona Z car springs that fit the stock perches. That is what I would do. What you should do depends on what you want to do with the car. Mine is primarily a street machine.

I simply can't imagine what someones head would look like with the sheet metal running over the top of a Z windshield wrapped around it. Are you saying they walked out of the car and sat down for a beer? This is exactly the point I am trying to make. Really? How much more likely? 10%? 20% Have any numbers? Yes I have noticed. But unfortunately I don't drive those, I drive a Z. No one is arguing that hitting your head in an accident is a bad thing. At least, I don't that is what your sheet metal comment is claiming. What I do take exception to are the ideas that putting a cage in a street car somehow makes the vehicle a death machine to an unhelmeted driver. I also simply do not believe that a little bit of padding is going to make much difference one way or the other in a serious wreck. In less serious wrecks it will undoubtably make some difference, but I would love to see someone produce hard numbers as to how much. And stories that begin with "my brother's cousin's best friend knew this guy who..." don't cary much weight. Naw, padding is so you don't bruise your head turning around to get something out of the back seat. Anyone who thinks it is for more than that is seriously deluding themselves.