Pop N Wood

You might want to do a search on welded diffs and get a few more opinions. Rumor has it they make the car hard to park and can be flat out dangerous on wet streets.

There was some talk about I think 2.94 ratio's out of a Nissan Armada. No idea if anyone has gotten one to fit.

Just our of curiosity, how do we find out how many ignore lists we are on? Instead of post counts, next to each person's member status we could post "Being ignored by XXX members"? On the parenting thing, I dont' think anyone wants the WWW to raise their kids for them. Like most parents we just want a little help knowing what sites are kids friendly and which aren't. Doesn't seem like much to ask.

A car mag did a test where they purposely tried to blow up a motor by going to larger and larger NOS systems. At some point, the engine is sucking all the air it can. Going past that point causes the NOS to come back out the carb, resulting in the backfire (actually explosion above the engine). Not sure where that little engine falls, but maybe you should start with the smaller pills and work you way up to a 100 shot. BTW, they were never able to blow up the engine since it was a mid 80's smogger 350 that wouldn't flow. They figured if they added some high flowing heads, exhaust and intake, than the NOS would have finally overwhelmed the bottom end.

From the looks of the pictures, that bolt wasn't torn out, it fell out. Maybe time to retorque all your suspension and chassis bolts?

Of course everything Jon says is true, but IMO it would be good practice to pull the 35 year old stub axles for an inspection anyway. I have read of enough sheared stub axles with otherwise stock 240's that it just seems like the safe thing to do. And, while you have them out, why not upgrade to the heavier 280 stubs?

Into the MC from the booster.

If you know you have worn out bushings, why not fix those first and then trouble shoot your brakes?

I don't think you will notice much if anything in the way of increased pedal effort from the larger diameter MC. In theory it will require more effort, but in practice it was nothing I noticed. The braided brake lines you absolutely will notice. They take all of the "give" out of the brakes. Once the brakes come on, it is like stepping on a brick. The pedal doesn't move because there are no rubber brake line swelling to take up the excess pressure. Also I didn't really "bend" the hard lines to get the MC to fit. Just kind of rerouted them. The lines have plenty of flex near the MC. If you break a line, then I would question the condition of the lines in the first place.

That explains the glow in the dark gauge panel

Might be a 1971 manufactured car registerd as a 72 (the year it sold). Should say the month and year it was made on the door jamb.

Not only does MD not require a police report, if there is no personal injury involved chances are they won't even answer the call. I have delt with Gieco more times than I care to admit. They have always been pretty straight up with me. They even kept my rates the same after an expensive accident went against me in arbitration. They agreed the accident wasn't my fault. They prefer to pay the money directly to a body shop because the actual repair is always more expensive than the estimate. Of course I got screwed by the body shop, but that is another story. Will be interesting to see how they work with your independent guy. They told me I could take it to the shop of my choice. They didn't like paying me a check the time my truck got rear ended, but they did. Later on when I noticed a big chunk of paint chipped off of the cab, they agreed to bring the truck back in and fix the additional damage that we didn't notice the first time around. I think sometimes they are just glad when a rear end accident doesn't automatically turn into a personal injury claim. Although Phantom's advice might be the best. At least talk up a potential injury just to keep them honest. If you don't actually make the claim then you have done nothing illegal or immoral. Now flame suit on against everyone else who has had other experiences with them.

Then I would hate for you to see some of the pictures I took when I was in the Navy. Especially from the crossing the line ceremony. I guess when the 2 star is doing it ...

That picture has me up on charges already. And if that photo gets back to her CO it will probably end up on the bulletin board in his office. Who knows, maybe she was off duty or waiting in line for the shower at the time.

You stole my line. Someone should call George and tell him his car is missing. Could you imagine sitting in that back seat staring at that braided fuel line going to the roof? Hard to believe that car is real. Who would put that kind of work into the sheet metal then leave the interior stock (short of that braided fuel line of course)?

I wanted to rebuild mine as part of a general maintanence thing until I saw the price of the rebuild kits. 35 years old and still going strong.

I used an MC from a 79 ZX in my 1970 240. When I first put it in, the brake pedal would free travel (no resistance) until it was about a half inch from the floor. The rod is threaded. I just lenghted that until the brakes started to grab at a pedal height I liked.

MSA sells nice covers. I have mine in a garage, but the cover still helps keep the dust and other debris off the vehicle. Can't say I have noticed a musty smell, just your classic "old Z car" smell.

Just curious if there was any progress on the install. In particular, ever figure out if there were going to be any issues with the oil pan and accessories placement?

Looks like a pretty nice set up as is. Trouble is he spent the majority of the ad describing the engine and none on the condition of the body. In the Q&A he says "no rust" and talks about how much the engine is worth. If it is really no rust, than the condition of the engine is almost inconsequential. With only a $1000 reserves it means either a) he has no idea what the thing is worth or there is something seriously wrong that he is not telling anyone about. If it is all he says (new interior, dash cap, no rust, straight body and only faded paint) then I would gladly pay $5K for it. It would be a steal at anything less. IF it is all he says it is. Of course, I would never buy a car sight unseen. Especially one with NOS.

That is the only thing that keeps the top of the strut anchored when you corner or brake. My guess is the side to side loading is significantly higher than the hanging weight of the strut. Throw in the strut recoiling downward after hitting a pothole and the forces are greater yet. If your "glue" lets loose in a high speed turn one whole corner of your suspension will detach from the rest of your car. Ain't never been there but it doesn't sound like the ideal situation to me. Just order a new one from MSA or VB.

Check your tire pressure first.

I don't think anyone doubts it can be rebuilt. But have to question the why part. As Einstien said, attempting the impossible is not insane. Insanity is attempting the same thing over and over again and expecting it to turn out differently each time. They say we are in a 20 to 40 year cycle of increased hurricane activity. Add to that the possibilty that global warming is impacting the hurricanes activity and that the oil and gas extraction is causing the city to sink, and you really have to ask why. I say if it is too expensive to bring in that much fill dirt, then bring in Greenpeace and let them restore the wetlands. But, we all know what is going to happen. Oh, BTW, that Japanese island airport is an amazing piece of engineering. They actually built the entire terminal on a set of hydraulic jacks that they can use to level the building as the island "sinks". Trouble is, the island is sinking faster than they thought it would. As the song goes, history proves again and again how nature points out the folly of man.

They put that label on the frame to warn people to NOT heat or otherwise weld the frame without following very specific procedures. Welding or heating the piece in one area changes the tempering creating the risk of catastrpohic failure of the piece.