Lockjaw

AFM doesn't get used with an aftermarket setup' date=' and since the stock setup + work is fairly limited, big HP guys are not going to use it, so no AFM. [/quote'] I believe the original question was concerning stock EFI, and in that context, triples would offer more power potential, especially if you add a header, compression and cam. Also, big HP guys will likely use forced induction. But I know for a fact that Clark at JWT has/had a 240 with a built NA 3.0liter that was making 300 hp on the dyno, and it had triples. Lets see someone do that with a standard nissan EFI. Perhaps converting to a Z31 set-up would work in that regard, it would stand a better chance then 280ZX injection. I don't think I ever said triples would be better then aftermarket efi, but why would someone spend a bunch of money to go stand alone, and then stay NA?

10 blade.

Properly prepped stock rods are good to 600 hp. All you need to do is polish, shotpeen, bush for floaters, have the pin oiling hole(s) drilled and use ARP rod bolts. I did that with my engine and have had no trouble with rods. As long as you don't wind the engine to 8k or higher, you shouldn't need custom rods, and you would probably tear up the crank before the rods anyway. Good luck, but I would spend my money somewhere else.

Well do some simple math. Take one 33 mm hole, and multiply that by 6. The compare that to the single 51 mm hole in the stock TB. Which do you think flows more air? Plus you don't have that dumb door on the nissan afm in the way either. If you had ever driven a car with sidedrafts you would know what I am saying, they rock when they are dialed in. Its just that most people never take the time to do it right. Once dialed in they are low maintenance items, and they actually meter fuel very precisely. Not as precise as EFI, but certainly much better then a holley. If I had a set, I would prove it to you, but alas I have moved on to forced induction. I used to have a set, and can tell you with all certainty, they will outperform stock nissan EFI. Anyday. And if you plan on adding a cam and header, well it just gets better with sidedrafts. And the sound, pure music. They have very sharp response.

Even on a stock engine, sidedrafts will outperform stock EFI. YOu have individual venturies for each cylinder. Likley the car had F16 emulsion tubes in it rather the F11's, which made a huge difference on my car. It could have also had little chokes, could have been jetted improperly, etc. When my 240 was stock except for a header and sidedrafts, a 280Z EFI could hang with me thru first and second, and then I would eat its lunch. EFI just does not deliver the airflow to the engine sidedrafts can. The key is properly tuned.

All I know is some guy named Jack at Scorpion Racing got a ton of it. I have talked to him before, but I don't have any numbers.

Yup that is what mine looks like. Will turblonetics sell to the public or do you have to get it from one of thier dealers. Everytime I called them I got some crap about minimum orders and buying from a dealer.

Hey I got some pic's under the 280ZX thread on intercoolers.

Side drafts are intimidating if you let them intimidate you. Getting them right is not hard, trust me if I can do it, so can you. If you like the aww effect, try having a set on a nice high compression engine with a big cam and hammering it. That is you aww effect right there. Nothing sounds sweeter to my ears.

They are going to have to make a speecial section just for you computer guys, you might as well have been talking in chinese.

I will look at work tomorrow where I have broadband. Dial up sux.

I think you would need a dry set-up to run it through the intercooler, I would think fuel would puddle. It works good to just inject a 30 - 50 shot after the intercooler. You get a nice cool hit. That is what I am going to do, eventually. Be careful with plumbing it in front of the intercooler. I wonder if having the stuff sucked into the intake tract would create issue's. need an NOS expert for that.

Why are you not sending it back, and getting a refund? Who built the turbo for you? I would send it back and get a refund or have the builder make it right, or I would trash him on this forum. To answer your question. Without knowing what turbine wheel you have, but assuming it is a stock nissan one, or a small one, the 60 Trim compressor will outflow it by a wide margin, which will cause excessive backpressure, which creates heat, which will transfer into the compressor. You need turbine flow to match that compressor, and it sounds to me like you and your builder need to have a pow wow. Do we need to create a HybridZ mafia to kick someone's A$$?

Yes and no. With yours, someone modified that rod, so in effect it shortened the rod, which created more spring pressure. Moving the actuator closer to the swing valve will decrease the tension, and lower the spring pressure to a point. That is of course assuming that you have to pull on the rod to get it over the deal on the swing valve. If it just slides on there, then no, there is not much you can do.

Plus it is hard to compare to the stock nissan one since the bracket on it is so wimpy anyway. Want more boost for free, bend it back a little, and you have more boost without a boost controller. Just don't get to happy with it.

All you need to index are some one those little spacer washers, and a sharpie. With the dual electrode plugs, it is easy as pie. FWIW, I used to use the NGK racing plug for the 300ZXTT, and it did not run well in my car. My "buddy" who owns a shop sold me a set of 6 copper bosch dual electrode plugs, and that fixed the surging I got with the NGK's, but when I went to replace them I found out my "buddy" did not know what he was doing, the heat range was a 2, and stock is a 7. Higher numbers equate to a colder plug. So I had my parts guy look up a heat range 7 dual electrode, and came up with the M3 plug, and it works great. I have run in excess of 20 psi with it at its preset gap, and a stock 300ZX coil with no misfires. I use Jacob's plug wires.

No such thing as to much HP, if you ask me.

They dyno'd one of those and it made about 280 Hp to the wheels, and Maxima's don't weigh 4000 pounds. There are people around here running low 14's in stock one's, and he probably has a 75 shot on it. I don't buy the 10.6 either, but I bet it will get down just the same.

Well alot of things. For one the speed of the processor the ECU uses. Motec's are the fastest I believe. Plus the amount of stuff the thing can control, like Vtec, NOS, transmissions, etc. Also whether or not it is sequential or batch fire. Batch fire is always less expensive, but it is less precise as well. It really just all depends on what you want to do.

I use Bosch platinum dual electrode plugs on mine and they work great. Of course they are for a 98 M3 BMW, but the get the job done, and are easy to index.

It would also be a good idea to clean all your connections to the ecu and AFM with brake clean and reconnect. What are you seeing when it runs rough? Black smoke from the tailpipe? Anything like that?

I got a T5 with 3.90's in my ZX and I like it. Plus you can go and get a hurst shifter for an early model Mustang Gt and put it in there and have nice short throws. What most people like about the 82-83 trans is the better spacing between 2nd and 3rd gear. There is more of a gap on the T5. It really isn't an issue unless you have a really big laggy turbo, which I used to have, and then you have to really wind out 2nd, or you drop out of boost. I can stir up some controversy by saying my car is faster with the T5 and 3.90s then it was with 3.54's. But it is, and my track times show it. I expect to be shifting into 5th gear by the end of the 1/4 mile with this combo. Either trans will work, its more up to personal taste then anything else. I like having nice short throws, like I have now, and I don't care about a short first and second, that gets into 3rd gear faster, which is where the motivation begins.

I think the one you need is something you can get from TopEnd. I would also try turbonetics. Topend will match price, you just have to have something for him to go by. He matched the cheapest price on my intercooler and knocked 5 bucks off to boot. Yeah big deal I know 5 whole dollars. He also is very responsive to email, which is how I like to do business. Mine is a dual port model with an adustable rod, and you just have to fab up a bracket to mount it. It is not that Maxima thing. Also I have had trouble with Turbonetics not wanting to sell me stuff since i am not a dealer. Just something to muddy the waters.

I don't think that is going to fit Yo. It may, but that is how mine was set-up delivered, and it wouldn't work, which is why I had a WG actuator bracket made. The nice thing about yours is it looks like it will bolt up to my old bracket, so we can clock the turbo to the stock position and then see how it works. The tension on the thing is supposed to be tight, and remember you have boost coming in and pushing on the diaphram to open it too.

So what's up with the boost controller. Spill it please.