Lockjaw

I got an electric grinder from Harbor Freight. It was cheap (50 bucks I think) and it works well. I got a carbide cutter from the hardware store, and I still use the same one, after doing the exhaust manifold to turbo, and the bumper shock for intercooler clearance, the intercooler lines, and I am sure a couple other things. Just watch it around a loose shirt, it will tangle you up in a hurry, and to rip your shirt. Eye protection is a must as well.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10368&item=2416036854 Has a dyno chart too.

This still pisses me off to think about it. Make them cover the shipping to and from as well. I mean mistakes happen, but this is inexcusable if you ask me.

Maybe you are experiencing the first signs of vapor lock. I would put my money there. What kind of fuel pump are you running? You could also have the float levels a little low.

Call them up, get an RA and send it back. Don't mess with fixing it yourself. You paid for a good non-leaking intercooler, make them deliver. I chose to go with Spearco rather then Bell. Glad I did.

Port it, you don't want a lip there.

Hog it out some more. That thing looks nice, but a t4 would really be able to benefit from that part.

I got the spearco like the one pictured, and it rocks.

You don't need to do all that. The only harness you need is the EFI harness. Everything else stays the same.

I had the EGR part cut off my turbo manifold and welded up. It is nice not to have that hanging off the back of the manifold. For the pop off valve, I got a plug from Nissan that goes into the 300Zx intake manifold for the NA model, and it is a direct fit. Looks better and won't rust like the stuff you get at a hardware store. I have a non-webbed early model intake and plan to run it eventually. It just looks cleaner to me. Plus I think you could do stuff with it like jet coat it or wrap the runners with header wrap to keep them cool. Plus it would also probably make seeing the bolts you are trying to loosen a little easier. Got to work out the cold start control though.

I think the P90A sucks. The hydraulic lifters bleed down and when the start to fail, you are SOL since Nissan doesn't carry replacements anymore. Even when they did, they were expensive. I swapped to a P90 and made power actually. I would never ever us a P90A, I would run a P79 instead.

I would be surprised if it was timing making it run really rich, unless you were way way off.

You have something out of adjustment, probably the TPS. At idle you should get a stable voltage reading of .47volts. If it is oscillating, then the TPS is not on the idle contact while you are at idle. You also need to check your fuel pressure and see where it is, your regulator could be going bad. If your car has a head temp sensor, make sure that is connected, it could be loose.

I would try Cartech. Either that or find a machinist to adapt yours to run the t25 flange.

The HKS intake was their little foamy filter thing, which sucks if you ask me. Run a K&N and be ahead of the curve. Sorry for the confusion.

Now I know where my chart went. Thanks Yo.

Post a pic perhaps. Also you could take the turbine and compressor housings off, and measure the inducer and exducer with a mic. Then look up the measurements and see what wheels they match. Also, what are the AR ratio's of the compressor housing and turbine housing? That info will help get in the ballpark.

I have misplaced the chart that tells what hole does what to the cam? I tried to search but did not see anything. I need the info please. Thanks

Be careful shifting the T5, most people overextend 3rd or 4th gear which causes problems. If you are lucky it just crunches going into gear, if you are unlucky, you get stuck in 4th gear. I put a hurst shifter with adjustable stops for a mustang with a T5 in my ZXT and I like it. Very short throws, and bullet proof if you ask me. I heard there was a place in Japan that had a bellhousing to attach a 300ZXTT trans to a L6. That would be a nice way to go as well. I am going to go to an auto eventually. I hate having to shift, and want to be able to build boost from a dead stop, so I can leave hard like Scottie.

Actually you are right sleeper. HKS said their intercooler, exhaust and intake was worth 245hp on a stock turbo engine. Since their exhaust is small, you should be able to pick up a little more hp (5 to 10) going with a 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust, and I would run a spearco intercooler that is very efficient with low pressure drop. HKS claimed their HP at 11 psi I believe.

Dan you just got to learn how to trick the software. S.hit should work as will $hit.

You don't need a 3.0 liter to get 250 hp turbo. I made 307 to the wheels on my old set-up, and I haven't had any problems with it. I do have forged pistons, but even cast one's wouldn't scare me. You need good engine management, and that is worth more then 200 cc's and crappy engine management, ie stock.

I think you will find the ford compressor housing is dfferent the the ZX one. 300ZX's also came with a T3.

No it will not bolt on unless it has one of those one off turbine housings that matches a T3. You can get a flange and have someone weld it on your manifold and then port it out to match. Why not get a stage V turbine wheel in a hybrid? It would be easier to do, and they flow some good numbers and have one fewer blade then a P trim. I have a manifold set up for a T4 that I have had for a while and would send you a pic if you would like. I don't think you will find the P trim that laggy if you run the .58 ar turbine housing.

Post some numbers when you get them.