Lockjaw

Find an 81-83 280ZX engine and rebuild that and put it in there with your head (do a nice 3 angle on the head), add a header and exhaust and a camshaft, and you will be surprised how much more powerful the car will be. Put a 3.90 rear end in the car, and it will really move. Getting that kind of power out of a 2.4 is harder then a 2.8. If you have a 5 speed, the easiest way to tell is how much of an overdrive it has. If the rpms drop by about 25%, you have the ZX one, less drop then that, you have a Z transmission.

I liked the electronic turbocharger sales. You know the bilge pump vent fans. I used to routinely send people emails about those. People are stupid these days.

We have a guy in town here with a nice looking camaro with a 577 in it. He even had custom 577 badges made to go on the front fenders. Pretty cool car, I would have to drive it.

That is the only place where you can get the throttle bodies that I know of. You may find them somewhere else, I am sure topend carries them, but you may pay more for them there, since they likely bought them from TWM. You could also check with AEM, they may have them. I used to get all my webber stuff from them.

I would not want a stage I. That is not going to flow much. I would go stage III minimum.

You can rotate the compressor housing, which is referred to as clocking the turbo. Just loosen the bolts on the back slightly and move it. Just don't force it. Spacing it will also work also. You may have to lengthen or replace your studs in the manifold, which is a pain. Been down that road. Just take it to a machinist. Good luck with it. A little boost and you will be able to put it all over that 350Z.

I would like to run it and see how much boost it takes to surpass my last turbo. I am going to try to get it up to the drag strip one of these days, but every time I talk about going it rains. It is strong now though at 15 to 16 psi, and if it is anything like my old one, a few more psi really start to wake things up.

That ZX is sweet, and Mikuni's are better then webers, and very precise. Since you have a header and exhaust, a cam would be a good booster for power and the triples will complement that nicely. You can go smaller on the choke size if you would like, say in the 32mm range, and have nice low end flow and power, without killing off the top. I routinely ran 33mm chokes and found them nice whether they were on 2.4 or 2.8. There is a cam motorsports offers that is .480 lift and about 274 duration. I think the powerband is 2k to 6k or something. That is a very sweet cam, and should do nicely for your application. Raising the compression would really wake it up, and that cam should turn to almost 7k. You would not need to fortify your engine, or port the head. Just remember, swapping the chokes out in triples will have a dramatic effect on your power. Small chokes, ie 28mm ones will give the car a lot of bottom end, big ones say 36mm ones will soften the bottom end but top end will be stronger. Thats why I think shooting for something in the middle would be better. Jetting should be easy, even via the board or a pm.

I decided to check spool up with the top port to the WG actuator disconnected, and the results were startling. I have very good spool up now, full boost by about 3000 rpms, with the Stage V turbine wheel, which compares really nicely to the stage III. It hits hard now, and I have found I have another problem, the BOV is leaking. Damn its always something . This turbo is a brute.

That might work. I had a 300ZX turbo in my 240, and it is a little longer then a stock 280ZX one. You could always put a different swing valve on it and have a machine shop fab you up a flange and make your own downpipe. I can do nissan one's for you, for a fee, say about 30 bucks shipped. That would be for two flanges. You are likely going to have to take a few measurements to see. I don't like the comressor outlet though. bolts suck there, but it would probably elimate the chance of it blowing off.

Pic doesn't work.

Did you change the cam? Theoretically, if you get the rockers arms on different lobes, that could cause your problem, they wear in on the lobe they start on, and getting them mixed up will cause the racket. IMO. Be careful not to get them to tight.

I got that question from the Yo boy in the integra. What do you have in the car, I say 6 cylinder. Automatic response is does it have a turbo. I said it did and he said man that car is F'ing fast. I just had to tell him I didn't have the boost working right, and it would get even faster when I got it straight. Mustang guys are funny too.

Damn and I thought I was doing something to make all my mess fit on one side. Looks nice there James.

I believe I mentioned he had it on the dyno and could not get traction.

Maybe you need one good pump. I use the peirburg from Cartech, and it seems to deal with higher pressures just fine. I am on a 4 bar map, and I am not having a problem at 15 psi of boost. When I was adjusting the FPR, I had it a "little" to tight, and it went right off my gauge, and it didn't faze it. You could also check to make sure your wiring is up to snuff, and you have a good ground. The factory wiring, especially the ground. I am sure you know about all that, but I thought I would check to make sure. I would like to see what you run on that set-up, and could you email me a pic of the MAF arrangement?

The latest temp switch I got does not go into the upper radiator hose, it passes thru the fins of the radiator. Just thought I would mention that since you object to the hose deal.

The 900 HP claim was ESTIMATED since he could not get traction on the dyno if memory serves. I think 600 is more realistic, he may have actually documented that. I agree with you Scottie, saying you have Hp is one thing, putting it to the ground and showing you have it is another. His car did not move out very good in any of the pic's. It sounds good, but even the one where the guy is in the car and you can see him shift and hear boost, the scenery never really seems to move very fast. I hate it when mags put crap in there like that. If you don't have the paper saying it makes it, don't print it.

You can polish them yourself, and you don't need to have them resized unless they are out of round, which is rare. You can also install the ARP bolts yourself. I used a dremel to polish mine, and used the sanding rolls, but ace hardware has larger sanding roles that will work in a drill, and that should speed up the process. It is not a bad job to do, really, and that ought to save you some money. Just a thought.

That was the turbo engine(s) they used in Paul Newmans car. It was a 2.8 liter I believe but they used the FJ rods, and forged pistons made by venolia. The also used a full T4 turbo. It was intercooled and all that. There is a link on either IZCC or Zcar about the car. It was pretty fast, even by todays standards. Electramotive made around 300 HP on the NA engines using huge cams and 50mm triple sidedrafts. The used different sized chokes in the carbs depending on where they were running to change the operating powerband of the car. Smaller for more bottom end, and larger for all out HP.

I would port match the intake ports on the head and intake to the gasket, and make sure there isn't a lip there. That should eliminate turbulence. You can do the same thing with the exhaust. I would not do any port work in the bowls without having the head flow tested. That is not a job for a shadetree mechanic, and you can often do more harm then good. That is why good port work is expensive. Good luck.

Yeah and it is missing a blade too.

Triples are about 1500 bucks new. If you go aftermarket with something decent, you have injectors, the computer, and any machine work required (ie tec II or III) and the installation and programing. Triples are easy to install, and are not bad to dial in. They are infinitely adjustable. While I don't want to start a flame war or anything, you have never fooled with triples, I have. I have a basis for saying what I am saying, and in the same context, I am answering the persons question. The fairness of the comparison is not what the guy asked, he asked if there was a benefit other then the aww factor. The answer is yes, the triples will make more power due to the greater airflow pontential. If he makes mod's, then the difference will be even more substantial. Now could someone get the same or better performance out of TWM sidedraft TB's with FI and an aftermarket computer? Certainly, and if you think sidedrafts are expensive, the TWM route would be worse. Oh and my webbers idled day in and day out, in bumper to bumper traffic. Hot days and cold. Never needed a choke either. Keeping them running is not a problem. If you jet them properly.

Well I got a 2.7 inducer and a 2.5 exducer.