Lockjaw

More info. I guess I need to learn how to read the dial on the MBC, I had it turned off, so I wasn't getting boost pressure to the bottom port of the WG actuator. Fixed that. I will say this, the car is a cruise missle now, with just 15 or 16 psi it feels faster then the old setup at 21 psi. The car is making a lot of power and really feels like it could use a cam to extend the powerband. The car gets really loose when the boost gets up there in 3rd gear. Almost scary. Times will be forthcoming.

If you are using the stock WG actuator on a stock turbo, I would guess TEP could make you a bracket. Mine cost 150 with the bracket, and I had to send them the turbo clocked so they could make it. (t3/t4 hybrid) I made my own bracket with this turbo, and it is not as pretty, but heh, function over form, right? I use it as YO2001 said, and it works well. The actuator itself is adjustable, in that the rod is threaded, and then I use the Manual Boost Controller to introduce boost to the bottom port to raise the boost, say when I am at the track. I guess I could buy a nice electronic one, but just have never done it. This one is also heavier duty then the stock one.

I have run both of those cams, set up just like you are, and I like the first one better. On my 2.6 it would pull to almost 7500rpms. I found the splilt profile one was sensative to head type and compression ratio. I had the split pattern one in a 2.6 as well, and it ran good, but that was the only engine it ever ran worth a crap in. I had a Motorsports head on that engine, and it was a seriously milled E88, it looked like an E31. The split profile one never ran good in my 2.8's, at least not as good as the other one, IMO. Check with MSA, they sometimes run cam specials if you get the whole shooting match at one time.

I have 240 rods on a 280Z crank, 87 mm bore, with adjusted pin height on the piston in my turbo engine for a slight improvement in the rod to stroke ratio. I am able to run a lot of boost on flat top pistons with pump gas without detonation, but I don't really have anything to compare it to. I think it runs pretty well though. You could have a set of pistons made and take care of the top ring issue. As long as it is an NA engine it will likely be ok, but if turbo is in you plan, you need to ensure the ring placement is right.

http://www.geocities.com/bruskiz/ZCamSpecs.htm Here you go, have some fun, and quit speculating.

The T88 is the greddy turbo right? I would bet you would have to get that from a Greddy dealer. For a twin set-up, I would think something on the order of two 60-1's would be sweet, you would need to run a full T4 with a p trim turbine, and probably a good sized AR ratio on the housings, something in the .69 or larger range. I would check with Innovative turbo, there is a mustang guy in Bham running one of their turbo's, and he is running low 7's in the 1/8th at 105mph or something insane like that. He likes their big single turbo, and says it spools pretty nice. Good luck.

Actually exhaust is pushed out by the pistons in the engine, if you want to get techy about it. It is pushed out thru the turbine housing, over/around the turbine wheel, which drives the compressor wheel, and makes boost. Corky Bells book "Maximum Boost" would be a good read for you. I have read it, and it has a lot of info in it.

Took the Zx out to play around tonight. I need to work on the WG actuator, it is only making the higher boost as the RPMS get up there. Got out on the interstate and I am making about 7 psi when I get in it, and then boost builds. I got as high as 16 psi and that turbo is brutal, I had the speedo (130 mph) pegged out in a big hurry, and the car gets really squirrely. To bad the drag strip wasn't open I could have gotten some times, however I got ahold of a yo boy in an integra, and well lets just say he can't even tell you what my tail lights look like, since they disappeared in a hurry. The turbo makes boost and is very responsive, if I can just get the actuator issue resolved I should be in good shape. Bye bye ricer.

Actually a fan on the backside of the intercooler is not a bad idea. Here's why. Only about 25 percent of the air that goes into the front of an engine compartment actually passes thru the intercooler. That is why ducting is so effective. You are not going to get the airflow thru the intercooler core with a radiator fan like you would get with a fan on the back of the intercooler, IMO. A fan will pull more air thru the core which is especially helpful around town where it is easy to heat soak an intercooler. On the interstate, it probably won't do much. But if you are sitting in the staging lane at the drag strip, I think it would be a benefit.

Airflow meter is the device that goes in front of the turbo on the inlet that measures airflow, and tells the ecu how much air the engine is ingesting based upon a little circuit board in there that has a sliding contact. The downpipe comes off the back of the turbine housing and connects the exhaust system to the turbo. The J pipe is the pipe on a factory nissan turbo ZX that connects the compressor discharge from the turbo to the throttle body. Got it.

I like the response my friend gave to a cop who tried to say I was eluding him. He said " excuse me, I don't mean to be arguementative, but this car is fast as shit, and if we were trying to get away, we wouldn't be having this conversation" Thanks pal.

My friend used to be a COP and he did the same thing, pulled some guy over for spinning tires, and gave him a lecture about spinning tires in front of a COP. I just got done with a ticket here, which cost me 213 bucks. Just speeding, but I did not have proof of insurance in the truck. Had to go to court, judge offers me traffic school, and I asked if I could just pay the ticket. Ticket was 213, traffic school costs 80, plus you have to come back to court and pay 113. I figure getting out of the hassle is worth 20 bucks, and since I turn 37 this year, a speeding ticket won't even affect me insurance wise. Once though when me and a friend were heading into town from his cousins shop, we were motivating along in our turbo car's. When we got off the interstate, before the light changed, a cop pulls up behind us. I knew that was bad because he had to have seen us. Anyway, we both got pulled over and were given a lecture. He said he was doing 110 and we were pulling away from him. (more like 125) He didn't give us a ticket, but I was glad since I had a suspended license, and had he run it, he would have found that out. That still brings a smile to my face to recall him saying "I was going 110 and you left me like I was sitting still" Ah the fun of owning a turbo datsun.

You have more stroke then me (5mm right ?), I have a 280Z crank, and am only 1mm over on bore. That is likely it, although I did find a non-clamped connection, so that may have something to do with it. And I suspect my dampner is going south since I am having a hard time getting the timing adjusted without running out of room on the dizz. I was going to do a TDC check and mark the balancer and see. Retarded timing could also be an issue. I may be a little off to, I haven't really checked it good yet, that was more of an estimate. It was running pretty good when the boost was up though, and the mods Clark did really make it much nicer on the cold start and stuff. Plus I want to get my turbo XS boost controller on the top side of the WG actuator and see what it does there. I am using my old manual one on the bottom port to control boost since the bracket I made for my dual port actuator put the actuator closer to the swing valve, I am going to have to cut the rod down a little and cut new threads.

I think there are always some on Zcar.com in the for sale section. Also Jeff P usually has one he is willing to sell.

If he gets the Z therapy video, it will tell him to do the 2.5 turns thing. Just thought I would point that out.

YOu can adjust the rod on the clutch pedal to change that, but I can't remember the direction and relationship to clutch engagement. I think shortening the rod puts clutch pickup closer to the floor, and lengthening it puts it further, but I can't remember exactly. Some trial and error should get you the right direction. Get ready to stand on your head.

What head does it have? A good 3 angle valve job is supposed to be worth a few ponies on a Z engine according to the hotrod datsun book. I would run a header, mild cam, exhaust and air filters with Air horns in then if you can find them. I think Z therapy says the stock air cleaner works good with a K&N, and better then an air filter without velocity stacks/airhorns.

I would mill the head if I were you, it works better. Your cam is ok, but you really need some compression to make a big cam run right. What head are you planning on using, the P79? If so that is a pretty good choice if you mill it some, like at least 85 thous. You can probably get down into the low 14's, high 13's if you get really good traction and leave hard.

I am up and running now and the Sport 450 spools pretty good but not as fast as my Stage III turbine did. It is not bad though, probably full boost by 3200 rpms or so. Feels good at 13 psi, but need to make sure the intercooler lines stay together. Runs really good at 13 psi actually.

Well the head with the square ports on the exhaust is generally regarded as better flowing, although that is a whole new thread. N42 is what you probably want.

You mean the tps, or throttle position sensor? You need a voltmeter and a manual to adjust it, if you ask me. Personally I would not suspect that at first. I would disconnect all my connectors to the ECU, and AFM, and clean with brake clean and reconnect and see what happens. What happens after the stumbl? Does the car drive like it should? When is the last time you did a tune up? Something to consider.

The one on ebay? Good for you. I got some extra 3 inch pipe, plus some Nitrile 3 inch hose, so don't go buy anything until you check out what I have. Lets go put some Z car smackdown on a certain S2K.

What the green light? Thats funny. It is actually a good little deal to tell you if your O2 is going bad, you should have 5 cycles in 10 seconds at 2000 rpms when the car is warm, and at night you should be able to clearly see it flashing when cruising. Of course you could be dumb like me and take you O2 out. The 110 leaded and it just don't get along.

I ran 22 psi on my last turbo, and the hit when the boost came on was insane. It would break drag ta's loose in first and second if they weren't warmed up, and I was banging the mess out of my 7k rev limiter in the first 3 gears. To bad the turbo was going south, or it would have really been fun. If you want a hard hit, get the stage III and a big compressor wheel, I was full boost by 2800rpms. This turbo is not quite as violent, but in fairness, I don't have the boost up there yet. I am looking forward to it though, I bet that is the sweet spot. Man big boost is fun.