Lockjaw

Not to mention the ecu and wiring harness. Plus a fuel pump. You can have the head worked over to work, but it would be easier to get an N42 and use it, not to mention it has bigger valves.

So which Haltec triggers off the ZXT dizzy? Thats what I need to get next.

I have seen one, but wouldn't buy one.

Scottie, as far as I know that is a turblonetics option. It is a nice looking unit, but you are kind of stuck using a deltagate, or something that works with a deltagate flange. I still think the idea has merit for the Z's though.

Hey and he was driving one of the caprice's that were supposed to be so fast too. I know what he was doing. He had this little rookie with him and he probably told him something arrogant like "let me show you how to bust these guys". What is really funny is we were just clowing around, and we never knew he was back there. Its just a good thing I never tried to pass my buddy, then he could have gotten us for racing. Either way, he never even got the radar gun on us. My buddy was driving a ZX and when the cop asked how fast we were going, he says " I don't know my speedometer only goes to 85". What an idiot. Still funny though. Turbo Datsuns rule.

I like this sort of topic. First, I like to run, but generally limit myself to the track, however I have been known to give it to a ricer every now and then, like I did last weekend. Personally I enjoy showing some Yo Boy what a real powerful car is all about, and most of the time, it takes them several miles of my slowed back down to cruising speed to give me the ricer flyby. Just as in the video, thats what the guy was doing, or so it looked to me, a fly by. Bottom line is street racing is not legal and you run the risk of screwing up every time you do it. You want to take the risk. be a grown up and accept the consequences. I also think had the guy tried to stop, he would have ended up causing another wreck, you are not supposed to back up on the interstate either. That said, I am willing to make an exception and go to the street races since I have this one particular S2000 driver that needs to get a good look at my tail lights disappearing right before his eyes.

Is microtec the same as Motec?

I got my dual port from TopEnd, and then clocked the turbo and sent it to them to make my bracket. I like it and it works pretty well. Most people I have seen add an external add it somewhere in the area where exhaust ports 3 and 4 meet. I have always wanted to come right off the turbine housing with one, kind of like the turbonetics style one for a GN. I figure that would be a very good way to control boost and an efficient way to vent the stinking thing and merge it with the exhaust system.

This is also a good place to go for mandrel bends. They are good quality and heavier guage then some places. http://www.roadraceengineering.com/hackertweekerparts.htm

I had my flanges made locally, and they were cheap, about 20 bucks for 2 plus tax, out of mild steel. I had to do a slight amount of grinder work, but they work. I am going to have these guys make me a torque plate out of aluminum one day soon. They told me they could cut 6 in thick steel with their flame cutting thing, thats all I know.

You should really read the article in SCC if you want to know about the turbulence issue. They put some funky panel up there where the pop chargers sit, and they had some funky do clutch that made it hard to launch (7pound flywheel) , so they were launching it at some insane RPM of 7k, and if memory serves, it did not run any better then that car listed. Could be the same. So it is conceivable the car makes the power on the dyno, but it doesn't make it in the real world of the track.

I think the Cheetah ran 10's, but it had an auto. Maybe really low 11's, but I think 10's.

Get some exhaust on that thing, strap an intercooler on it and bump the boost up to about 11 or 12 psi and you can really drift it then. Good luck getting it situated, and welcome to Z car boost. You won't ever be able to go back to NA now. You have an addiction that will never go away.

Or you can use the simple formula of 1/2 pound of fuel per hour supports 1 horsepower. 550 cc injectors flow 50 pounds per hour, times 6 for six injectors is 300 pounds of fuel, so theoretically, he could get 600 hp out of the injectors. Having said that, that would be at 100 percent duty cycle, and if you want to do that, more power to ya. 480 hp would be more realistic based upon 80 percent duty cycle. He could raise his fuel pressure, my injectors flow 550 cc at 4 bar, but at 2.5 they flow 420cc, so he could have bumped the pressure, and if he used a JWT ECU, he likely did. I also think a better weight for the car is 3700 pounds, with driver. I always thought the ZXTT was 3500 pounds sans driver. Also, in Sports compact car, they built a very stout 300ZXTT and they seemed to think that the car was laying down on the topend because of turbulence at the intakes. So he could have made the power on the dyno, but not made it on the topend running 120. But before someone gets in my case about a rag mag, I am not saying I believe the guy either, just being a devils advocate a little. And I am all for challenging the guy and making him back up his claims, especially when the numbers don't match. If he has a dyno slip, more power to him.

So who is pitching cranks out of engines? That is the only reason I can see for having a 4 bolt main.

More like traction impaired. Those are good sized turbo's he is running, and I would guess since he has an NOS spoolup kit, that his power doesn't come on until higher up. His MPH is impressive though.

There is someone working on a group buy from Ross Racing pistons, but you can also get them from JE, Arias, and Weisco. Some of the specialty Z shops such as Topend, and probably Sunbelt, Robello, etc have them in stock, but you pay for that convenience. YOu need a t3/t4 hybrid, unless you plan on running NOS. I am not a fan of the fuel computer add on, I guess you could do that if you like, but the better method would be to get something aftermarket like an SDS, Tec III or run the JWT set-up, which is what I have. The main thing I don't like about the stock EFI is the AFM and the door, and it is not very adaptive. Drivability with something more modern, like the JWT set-up or a properly tuned aftermarket set-up will make you a believer.

I am thinking I may need one too, and would like to know a ballpark price. I am relegated to a 3 grove one, although I guess I could take the AC out and drop a few pounds. I think mine has begun to spin.

I would get forged pistons, rings are not that critical as long as they are good quality rings for a forced induction engine. I would have the reciprocating assembly balanced, and run ARP rod bolts. Use a turbo oil pump. You will need an intercooler, a good sized hybrid turbo at minimum and some sort of aftermarket engine management. Run a 3 inch mandrel exhaust. Probably looking for a 550 cc injector, and running a good fuel pump, and you will also need to look into getting a better clutch then stock. That said, there are people who have done it on a stock motor, using various other methods, and while they may run 12.1's, doing it reliably on a stock engine without good engine management will enrich your local parts guys wallet, if you ask me. Spend the money wisely and where it counts so you can enjoy the power for years, rather then months. Better to overbuild your engine rather then underbuild it.

I am not using the turbo XS one yet, but it is the two adjustment kind. I was thinking of trying it on the top port, and then having the one on the bottom for adjustment. The turbo XS stuff is supposed to reduce spool up time. Either way, breaking drag radials loose as the boost comes up is fun.

Get the Garrett. Spend the Greddy money on something else.

Yes it is an aftermarket unit, and you can buy it separately, and I don't think it is to expensive, like less the a 100 bucks when I bought it. You can make your own bracket, it is not to bad, just make sure to space it right so it doesn't interfere with your compressor outlet. I noticed a nice difference on my last hybrid. It was a stage III turbine in a .63 housing with an H3 compressor, and it spooled up really fast. Since the sport 450 has the stage V turbine, I am still playing with it. I suspect my WG actuator rod needs to be shortened a little, so I can put more pressure on the swing valve. Either way, I think with some play time with it I can get it to really improve, although I doubt I will have the response of the stage III with the stage V, but it is pretty close. I notice more of a difference on the interestate in 5th gear, where at 3000 rpms, with the old turbo, whatever boost I wanted was there, it is not with the stage V, yet. Still working on that. I will say this, the sport 450 is a hoss. I like it.

I have a single 16 inch fan, and i use one of those dumb looking controllers that you can get at autozone, and it is all wired up thru a relay. It works good, but isn't the most pretty thing. There was some sort of switch that you could have put in the radiator, and it would trigger the fan at a preset temp. I would think that would be the cleanest way to go. Good luck.

I wanted to build an engine like that and turbo it, except bore it out to 89mm, which I think would get me back close to a 2.8. I don't think it would work well in my ZX thought. To heavy. If someone goes that route, I would really like to hear the results.

I am not offended, but I think he was on drag radials only, and the site is down or I would verify what he ran. I also think that was on 93 octane. James your car is fast no doubt about it, and I know you were on Nitto's, but you were also using NOS to get moving, so traction wasn't such an issue when I saw you run, traction for this guy is an issue. There are faster ones, there is a guy that has a 9 second one, but I haven't seen it yet.