Lockjaw

Ok, I am going to be semi rude about this too. First of all, Turbonetics sucks,s o if you buy your turbo there, and it breaks, you know why I say they suck. Second, you can put just about any compressor wheel in a housing, be it a To4e or TO4b. So if you want a 60-1, I would stick it in an E housing since they are more efficient at higher boost levels. Third a 50 trim to4E supports about 390 HP on a DSM, a 60 trim is good for about 25 more. If you want more power, get the 60-1 or 62-1. Finally a compressor map is for a certain wheel in a certain housing. If you don't know what housing it is in, you don't know what you are going to get. Yes they are a good to get you a ballpark idea, but the bottom line is when you buy a turbo from someone like, say JWT, and they tell you what it will do, they have dyno'd it. I have a sport 450 and it made 413hp to the wheels on Jeffp's car. Don't get a TO4B, or an H3 either. Get a 60 trim TO4E or 50 trim as your entry level, with a stage III 10 blade turbine in a .63 ar housing. If you want more, get the stage V turbine, and a 60 trim or 60-1. Still more, step up to the full T4 as James suggested. If you go full T4, just remember those don't bolt onto the nissan manifold, the hybrids do. And to explain our titles are based upon our post numbers. I could be the biggest post whore on the site, and be the Z car grand Poobah and not know dick about a Z car. We don't pick the titles, they are assigned. James is funny in person BTW.

Actually the proper way to do it is to vent the air back into the pipe going into the front of the turbo since that is metered air. If you have a speed density set-up then it is not so critical, bit I would rather have it sealed off then vent to the atmosphere just to keep noise down and keep crap out of my engine. The best place to put it is on the cool side if you are venting back into the tube in front of the turbo since theoretically you would be feeding cooled air into the turbo versus hot air coming off the line from the turbo. I doubt it is much of an issue either way, but mine is going on the cool side.

I like to turn my engine over for about 10 to 15 seconds before letting it start, just to make sure oil is everywhere. Other then that, everything Tim said sounds good to me.

Wrong. A 3 inch mandrel system will give you far more HP, what is the HKS one its not even 2.5 unless they changed something. While I am sure the HKS is a good set-up, I dropped almost 9/10ths of a second and picked up 7 to 8 mph with my 3 inch mandrel over a 2.5 non-mandrel. You can build your own for less too. JeffP's is stainless, and a limited run as well, which is why it costs so much. Go to Burns Stainless and see how much 3 inch mandrel stainless costs.

There is a thread about this already, I have seen it in the past couple days. But to answer your question, most people run a holley 390 CFM 4 barrell, and this is not the best way to go. SU's are a better choice. If you want a manifold, I have a friend who has two in his shop he would like to get rid of.

So you like to push the weld huh? That just seems weird to me, although I have done it. What I really hate about the flux core is the splatter. Oh well, ,my welds may not be pretty, but if they work, I guess I will take it. The welder has saved me a ton of time, and money though. Now if I just had a lift, life would be good. Nice looking work there James. When are you going to be running again?

You aren't going to limit your power with a .1 AR difference. Trust me. If you are worried about it, add the spacer and redo the DP. I would just run the 50, and was going to use that housing anyway until I bought this turbo from Jeff. A 60 AR TO4B will fit, thats what I used to have. Run the 50AR and make your life simple. 8)

Well you weren't specific in what you were after. I got an 84ish turbo diz in my basement I snagged the chopper wheel out of, so I could scope it out and see exactly what the difference is. Have to have a V6 chopper wheel for the JWT set-up.

I would guess the flow would be the same or very close, but I don't remember how AR affects power on the compressor housing. I want to say it is inverse to turbine AR, but I am just not sure.

I got 20 or so with mine when I had a 2.8 liter with a cam and header. You can get decent mileage, not quite as good as with SU's, but you can do it. I had a friend that used mine and he ran 8.40's in the 1/8th mile in a 240Z. It had a big cam, header, light fllywheel and 3 inch exhaust. The bottom end was a stock 2.8 liter flat top motor, and the head was a seriously milled P79. We had a vericom computer on it and it said it made 240hp, but it was not easy to drive in town. To me, nothing sounds sweeter then an inline 6 nissan engine with side drafts and a cam going thru the gears. Not my choice for power output, but they sound awesome. Also, I always found the difference in going up in engine size to be pretty decent power wise. A 2.8 is way better then a 2.6 or 2.4 if you ask me. Maybe not so much if you are turbocharged, but NA, you need the Cubes.

Not the same.

I am glad you guys can see it. Neither link works for me.

Slap an intercooler in there and turn up the boost if you want to see a difference. I went from a NA ZX manifold to a turbo one and 60 mm TB and picked up 3 psi. You really want fun, add a 3 inch mandrel exhaust picked up lots of boost there. I picked up 4 or 5 psi doing that. Be sure to use a good straight thru muffler.

Does it have a head temp sensor? If it does, then it should have the wiring for an O2 sensor. No head temp sensor and I would say it is the first gen EFI. You could also have the wire in the harness, just taped up.

I was referring to MY intercooler piping, but I was wondering how you make sure you don't have leaks. I guess part of my issue is flux core mig versus tig, but do you check it somehow? Is there a secret way that would help me, I just fill mine up with water and see if they leak, but that is messy.

I feel a prank call coming on. HAHA

Starve yourself a little longer and get the BB turbo. You know you want to. One of these days I am going to get one. Getting boost 400 to 500 rpms sooner just extends your powerband, and the new GT series one's, according to the guys at Forced Performance will spin with a light breeze.

The NA and turbo blocks are the same in the ZX from 81 to 83. And so you know I have a regular ZX block, a ZX crank, and 240 rods, and I have been running 15 to 22 psi on it since it was built, 5+ years ago. The nissan block, no matter turbo or not, is not a weak link. Turbo Tom was making 300+ hp and running big boost on the regular Z block with no issues.

They will handle that with ease, as long as you don't ping. Ping it hard one time and it doesn't matter what you have. While forged is better by a long shot, remember this, aluminum is aluminum, not matter whether forged or cast, and it all melts at the same temp.

Thats what I built although I have 87mm forged pistons, and mine spins to 7k with no complaint with a stock turbo cam and lot o' boost. When it runs that it.

3 to 3.5 psi is fine, more then that creates issue's just like with SU's.

Didn't need that mental picture... Same here, I have met Rick.

How do you know the pipes don't leak? I have that problem with my intercooler lines I was fabbing up, but I am a welder in training. Last one didn't leak though. Looks pretty good there Tim.

The blocks are the same, you will have no issue's with the block, its the turbo pistons that are what you want. You can do the conversion on the engine in your car and it should be ok, just make sure you keep the boost in check. The rings are chrome just like in the turbo engine, provided you have the flat top motor. You may look into getting the 2mm thick headgasket and running that as a precaution, but I would not be afraid to boost a stock ZX engine. Plenty of people have done it. Whatever you do, run a nissan headgasket or the thicker one.

You need the 50 AR compressor housing, the 60 is what I have, and I had to have a spacer. You have seen it so you know, spacer required.